I've been getting lots of requests to do another arrow video, especially on how to process feathers without a grinder or lots of tools.
While I'm using Doug fir shafts, wood dowels would work as well. The point on this arrow is forged from a piece of 3/8" steel rebar as weighs in at 150 grains. The arrow is spined for a 52 pound centershot bow, which works great out of this 60 pound Bear Cub shoot-around longbow.
Thanks for watching and enjoy!
Thanks to Jim Keffer of the PSK for the arrow shafts and dowel-making tips!
Hey fellow backyard boyers, Nick here.
I've been getting a lot of requests to do another arrow making video.
So today I'm going to show you how I made this arrow.
It's got a self-knot, hand split fletching, and a hand forged point.
And in the next video I'm going to show you guys how I made this point.
Here it is.
Let's get started.
The arrow shafts I'm using are made from old growth Douglas fir from an old building.
A friend of mine cut and doweled them out.
And he also helped me build my own doweling setup with a router.
Once I get mine finished up I'll show you guys how it works.
You can also use wooden dowels for this.
The important thing is making sure that both the growth rings and grain
are running in the right direction.
Now growth rings are easy to see.
And you just want to make sure that there aren't many growth ring violations.
So just take a look and you can see in areas where there's a lot of runoff this can happen.
Now a little bit of runoff is okay and when we're putting this together we'll address that.
I start sanding the arrow shaft by putting it into an electric drill
and then running it through different grits of sandpaper.
I start with 80 grit to take out all the rough grain and smooth everything down.
And then I bring it up to a thousand grit to give it a nice smooth finish.
I cut the arrow down to 29 inches for my 28 inch draw.
Giving myself about an inch for the point taper and the knock.
With a tile saw or eighth inch round file
I file my knock into the end of the arrow perpendicular to the growth rings.
Once that's smoothed down I apply two coats of dewax shellac and let it dry.
For the fletchings I'm using three turkey wing feathers.
Though you could use the wing or tail feathers from just about any large bird.
I start by gently peeling the feather away from the quill
and then trimming the feather to length and shape with a pair of scissors.
And I'm cutting mine to five inches long.
Then I apply glue or in this case fletching tape onto the base of the feather
and then just by eye I place my first feather which is going to be my odd feather onto the
arrow making sure that when the arrow is held as if on the string all of the growth rings
if there are any growth ring violations they're pointing forward and up.
That way if there are any breaks the broken arrow won't go into your hand.
Once I've done all three feathers I go back with a pair of scissors and trim them to shape.
Finally I take a piece of sinew and bind the front and rear of the fletchings just to keep
them from coming off. Once the sinew is dry a coat of shellac will help waterproof it.
Now I grind a five degree taper onto the front of the arrow to accept an arrowhead.
I then forge a socketed bodkin style target point using a piece of three-eighth inch diameter
steel rebar. Once the point is cleaned up I glue it onto the arrow shaft with some hot melt glue.
Now the arrow is finished. Here's our arrow. I hope you had fun building this with me today
and if you have any suggestions for other videos you'd like to see please let me know in the
comments. If you're interested in seeing more arrow making videos I've got a playlist in the
description below and if you want to see other projects like this you can check out my channel.
I've also written several books on different topics including arrow making
and you can check out the links to those in the description below.
So as always thanks for watching, be safe, and I'll see you guys next time. Bye.