1000 Horsepower 4 Cylinder Engine Teardown Disassembly

We're going to take this thousand horsepower engine and disassemble it into all of these parts right now. So first thing let's pull off the fuel rail. So it's a custom fuel rail that holds 2,000 cc injectors. You need huge injectors if you're going to make 250 horsepower per cylinder. It's all custom stuff and we have these custom little adapters that go into the head and we'll get a little pick and then pull the adapter out and then the o-rings but you always have to be careful not to scratch the bore there. If you scratch the bore the o-ring won't seal very well. So this is just a little cover for the intake ports and it stops anything from getting into the engine as it's uh you know being removed from the car. The valve cover is actually pretty cool. It's got like all stock stuff actually. This big spray bar and it sprays oil down onto the cams and the valve springs. It keeps everything cool. Another little o-ring and now you can see the custom ground cams, custom rocker arms, all the custom valve springs, titanium retainers. All this stuff is unique, uh even the rocker arms. So we'll pop out the spark plugs and uh they look like they've been burning pretty well and I always number them so I know where they came from. Next is the water pump. Break them loose a little bit and they get a little 3-8's impact and knock out those bolts and always a little bit of water left in there so dump that out, set it aside, get that gasket too. Stock water pump actually on this. Another one of those covers and now the dry sump oil pump. So this is an oil pump so instead of using the internal pump, the stock one, we have an external and because of the 9,000 rpm that we run the stock oil pump can't keep up so we run this external one and all this custom dry sump pan and these lines, these big lines, all scavenge oil from the the oil pan and run it into the pump and out to the external tank that sits inside the car. We also have like this box of uh just they're just caps so get the cap put it over the AN fitting and it stops the oil from leaking out anymore and also it stops you know dirt or whatever from getting in while the pump is sitting on the bench. Pop the rest of the pump out, set that aside, and then we've got some custom aluminum brackets that adapt that pump to our engine. Zip those out and then time to get the pulley off. So the pulley bolt is on there 192 foot pounds so in order to get that we have to hold the pulley some way and we use that chain wrench but if you ever get one of those make sure you don't put the chain wrench on the serpentine area. There's like a flat section on this pulley where we can use it. Now we get the oil pump gear drive off and the pulley doesn't just pull off so we have this little puller a couple of screws that go in and then that center bolt pushes on I put a stock pulley bolt back in and then it pushes on that stock pulley bolt we have to leave a little bit of a gap and see that little gap I make and then when you push on the center bolt it's able to you know pull the pulley off. Set the sucker aside and now we pull the cam position sensor off and then all of the timing cover. So all these timing cover bolts once they come off this timing cover is actually sealed with a bunch of silicone and it doesn't want to come off that easy we have a little power steering bracket pop that sucker off. So the silicone is sticking now the whole timing cover on so we'll get a pry bar and you know try to find somewhere flat that we don't you know mess up the aluminum or anything get that started and then the rest of the way it comes off a little bit of oil still leaking now you can see the whole timing chain timing drive area so the one on the left the letter c up in the top that's variable cam and then the one on the right is a custom cam gear that we make and then it's all chain driven and you can even see the the crank trigger wheel inside there we'll pull the automatic tensioner off and all the timing guides and then we can pull the timing chain off and set that aside. All the stuff will be inspected before we put it back together it's actually really good that's actually a lot of stock parts there stock Toyota chain and tensioner and stuff is real good. So I'll break loose all the cam cap it's like this whole top assembly is pretty nice design factory Toyota and then zip it all out and the cams and this whole like girdle piece come off together we'll set that aside on the clean area so you can see the cams the cam gears and how this whole assembly works it's a great design it's very rigid and stock this is a big weak area is the rocker arms but all this custom stuff actually works really well now you can see the titanium retainer and the dual valve springs before I pull this off number all of the rocker arms where they came from and then quick little inspection and set them on the table over there so the way this works is there's a little roller and the cam pushes on that roller and then it pushes down on the valve that's how the valve opens these are little solid lifters stock the car has hydraulic but we install these solid lifters with these little shims so that's how you do the valve adjustment are these little shims these are painted the rear to assemble these engines because of all these little shims and all this specialty components but that's why it's kind of fun watching one of these things being disassembled because you can get to see all the inside parts that you normally don't have in a street engine so pull all the shims out in order so we know where they came from now we'll go to the exhaust side this is a super custom rocker arm setup so instead of like that rocker I'm just sitting on there like the intake side we designed this so there's a shaft so the rocker arm can't fall off or go anywhere so this is all custom rocker arm stuff we'll loosen two little bolts that hold them in to the stands and then we'll pull it out as a whole assembly and the whole assembly has a couple shims under it and then that's how we do the valve adjustment again a little magnet get those shims out set them aside and keep them all in order so stock this is a 6200 rpm engine and anything you know close to 7000 they have a lot of issues with uh you know valve float and rocker arms falling off and stuff but now we can run 9000 no problem with all these modifications so this is the head studs they're actually upsized to half inch diameter it's a lot larger than stock and they take 150 foot pounds of torque so I'll loosen them all in a quarter turn just so we don't get one loose all the way any of the other ones are all tight so we'll do quarter turn get them a little bit more loose and then zip them all out and I'll get my trusty magnet get all the washers and then once I get all the washers and all the stuff I'd like to set them all aside and make sure they're all accounted for before moving to the next step it's always pain if you pull the head off and set it up you know aside and then you know bolts and stuff fall out of it try to account for everything before moving to the next step so now we're looking in the bore this is pretty normal we don't use coolant in the racing engines it's just water so they will have a little bit of uh like corrosion a little bit of rust but that's really normal you can see how uh or the head gasket sealing areas this one is sealing pretty well but this is always a weak link in these engines the head gasket and they'll usually blow right between the two cylinders so in order to turn the engine now I'll put a stock pulley bolt on there and then you know just turn it make sure everything looks okay and move to the next step which is a little bit more inspection you can see you know this thing has four weekends on it at least of drift racing so it's got a bit of use and you see a little bit of rust in the cylinders there that's because we run an ethanol fuel and then after a weekend when you park the thing in the trailer it sits for weeks at a time and it'll actually add a little bit of rust it doesn't hurt the performance really but it just doesn't look very good either so now this is part of the oil pan this is like a big scavenge rail so we'll zip all those bolts out and set it aside and then we can access the bolts to pull the rest of the oil pan out so this is one really long bolt that goes in and the rest of them are like allen socket style not this one this one's like really hard to get to safety is a wrench you got to remember do that first so again this is all custom so this is a custom billet oil pan and it's a machine of a giant block of aluminum and it's custom for this toyota engine no one else really runs it except for us and again held them with the silicone so my trusty buddy sean came over and held it while i pried it off a little bit of oil left in there but you can see how uh how it's built inside it's pretty trick uh there's four different scavenge areas so it pulls oil from four separate sections to always keep the minimum amount of oil in the pan that helps with reducing the amount of oil on the crankshaft spinning around and helps with horsepower and keeps the oil temps down that's the rear main seal before i move to the next step i'll turn it and just sort of feel all of the rods and make sure there's no obvious issues before pulling it apart okay so before pulling out the pistons i'm going to clean this little carbon ridge along the top area of the the bore because when we push the piston out we don't want that top ring to hit that carbon and then mess up the ring or um you know make something really dirty so we'll we'll clean that up so loosen the two rod bolts and i don't go all the way loose i'll actually leave them threaded in there a little bit so when i hit the end of the ratchet it could push the rod out but you're not messing any of the threads up so next step is pull the bolts all the way out and you got to be careful because that bearing usually tries to fall out um so be kind of careful and there's the bearing actually looks really good uh for how many weekends it has how many miles and now we'll just sort of push the piston down a little bit and the rings are holding it from falling out right now but once you get the rod pushed down a little bit more it's going to want to fall all the way down so you want to have a second you know one hand pushing it down the other hand making sure that you can catch it so there we go forged je piston runs a gorilla rod this is all super custom and super buff uh for the horsepower that we make and the little uh marks and stuff that you see on the side of the piston that's all really normal wear and that's pretty normal bearing well as well for the horsepower that we run so we'll probably replace the bearings in it even though they don't look so bad but once you have it apart you know you just replace these relatively inexpensive parts so now we'll go and pull the other three pistons and rods out set those aside and uh the cool thing about this engine is i mean basically everything in the bottom of this engine has been replaced with a racing part so this is a full billet crankshaft from sunny bryant it's actually seven pounds heavier than the stock one because we need it to be so much stronger than the stock crankshaft we actually end up adding a lot of extra material to it so again quarter turn loosen all of the main cap bolts and then zip them all out and then trusty magnet and get all the washers again go back and account for them make sure all 10 of them are there and then i'm prying it from these little pry spots you can see on the side of the main cap this this is a billet main cap so these are actually not the stock ones the stock ones will break so these are uh main caps that we machine out of a solid block of steel and again the the coated bearings these are actually a stock toyota bearing it's a really good bearing and great wear and no problem with wear here and the crankshaft spun very well um so next step is pull the crankshaft out you got to be careful once you get the crankshaft up a little bit the bearings tend to want to stick to all the journals so if you don't have the problem where when you pull the crankshaft down the bearings fall out of place i'll lift the crank up a little bit and then you see with my finger i'll push the bearings kind of back down again and then bring the crank over to the table so now these are the five main bearings and then you can see the thrust bearing right there i think one of the thrusts actually fell into the pan that's why you want to have something soft at the bottom also so if something falls that doesn't get damaged so we'll pull all the bearings out these actually look really good and set them up on the table and i'll mark them from one and number one is always on the pulley side like where the uh crank pulley is the transmission would be the end of the engine so i'll put one and then b is for block so i'll mark all five of the bearings set them aside and then do the same thing with the the main bearings the main caps are all marked so i'll now mark all of the bearings one through five set those aside and we pretty much got it at that point so if you made it this far congratulations you might actually be into engines so i'll leave some links in the bottom for some of the tools i use that are kind of hard to find and then also uh some links on if you want to see the car actually in competition what this engine lives in thanks for watching