Is a City permit needed to change windows? If you are planning to change a header, probably. At least most cities say so. If not, as a rule, no city permits are needed for replacing windows. If you do have a permit and want to pass a city lath inspection, here's the method to pass that inspection if you have a home built before 1980, which has no plywood backing. FYI, when breaking out stucco on a home with no sheer wall or plywood, it’s ten times as difficult and sucks 20 times more than breaking out a home that does indeed have a solid backing. Homes with solid backing such as plywood became normal or coded around 1980 Yea. However, millions of homes worldwide have solid backings, too, because many had wood siding, cladding, or substrates to begin with. Now you know.
Hi everybody, Jason here with Perth Giordano Plastering and I've got my brother Danny sitting
here filming us. What I want to show you today is just a couple quick tips on everybody's favorite
thing, stucco breakout. It sucks, it's dirty, it's gross, nobody likes to do it, but we have to and
there's a lot of reasons for it. You can see here I've already started. This is what we were
originally left with after the window installers came and they did a nice job putting this new
window in, but we cannot waterproof, tie in new paper or new wire into something like this, so you
have to break out two to three inches typically. Now this is a stud house. If I go any further than
I've gone already, then I'm going to be in the field trying to break out stucco in between studs
and you can't do that. So you can see what I've been left with here. I'm going to take a hammer
and a pry bar and pry up this wire, get rid of all the rocks, and then we're going to jam our new
paper under there. Secondly, they left this little two inch, three inch spot of stucco at the top.
Now we're going to take that off because we can't get new paper under it and plus when I put new
stucco, I don't want to try and texture into this little two inch thing. It'll just be a lot better,
cleaner finish, and more watertight if I remove that. So I'm going to remove that. Now these are
easy sides because we're on wood and that's on a header. If we come to this side, we have a little
bit more of a challenge, but thankfully it's pretty easy too. Two inches inside of here we have another
stud. You can see these furring nails that I've exposed are on the stud. So what I have to do
all the way up this line is remove this four inches of stucco and then break it, cut it, and
leave a few inches of wire and we'll do the same thing. We'll overlap our paper and wire and that'll
be waterproof. So what I wanted to show folks is that there is a trick when using these rotary
hammers. There's a lot of ways to do stucco breakout. This is how we do it. When you are breaking out,
you don't want to just go four inches in and try to break out big huge pieces. You can see I followed
a line here. When I'm doing breakout, sorry for the noise, I'm only moving my bit an eighth of an inch,
a quarter inch in. I wouldn't jump from here to here a whole inch. I go here a little bit
and that will cause the stucco to just kind of disintegrate. Vibration
will just make it make your job easy. I know this is loud, sorry for the microphones, but
so that's what we're going to do and you can see how lovely this is. There's no wood behind it,
so if I try to break out here, it's just going to wobble and it's not going to be very effective.
So we're going to carry this line up. We're going to take that off. Lastly, this bottom. It looks
like there's no paper here, but I've gone inside and actually the paper is in really good condition.
It's just a few inches lower. So once again, in order to do that breakout, I don't just start here
and break out a huge piece. I start a quarter inch and that makes everything easier.
Now I'm following the stud. We have a stud here that matches the stud underneath
and so this way when my tool is vibrating, it has some back
I don't know if the camera will show that, but we have great paper here. So what I'm going to do
is break out this whole line across, remove that top, get everything nice and pretty,
and then when we're done with the last, maybe I'll show you guys how it all looks.
All right folks, I told you I'd show you the end. This is what it looks like when we're done.
Of course, we're using a Sikaflex 1A polyurethane caulking to fuse our new paper to the window.
Sometimes we caulk the nail holes. You don't need to do that. The paper is a self-healing membrane,
but we do it anyway because we're here and I have an open tube. Again, the important things were
we broke out enough to get our paper far over the stud line here. I'm way more than two or three
inches. I got that paper really far. Same thing with down here. We're way over the existing paper
all the way around. We removed this silly little two inch piece and then we're able to get our
paper up and under that wood trim piece. So everything here is watertight. It's bomb proof
and we're going to get out of here and come back another time and do the cement work and maybe we'll
show you that too. Anyway, thank you guys for watching. We really appreciate you guys paying
attention to these videos and we will see you on the next one. All right folks, as always we want
to say thank you for watching. If you like what we put out, please like and subscribe and we'll keep
making content for you and as usual, we'll see you on the next one.