NZXT H700i Build - Ryzen 7 1700 / RX VEGA 64 (Livestream Archive)

Hello everyone and welcome to another PC Part Picker live stream. I'm Ryan. And I'm Barry. And today we're putting together a high-end AMD gaming machine using NZXT's new H700i case. Big thanks to NZXT for providing the case and Seasonic for providing the power supply for this build. Check the description below for the full part list. Let's get started. All right. So we're gonna be doing the Gigabyte AX370 Gaming 5 motherboard and we'll be putting in a AMD R7 1700. There we go. Let me grab out our backplate. Don't want to forget that. And then also our, I think, G-connectors, Gigabyte calls it. Yep. Stick that off to the side. You know, we have the normal stuff in here. Manual, driver disk, some stickers so you can label your SATA cables, a couple SATA cables. You've got, I think, two thermistors if you want to keep temperatures, random points in your case, LED extension, some nice Velcro straps, and a high bandwidth SLI bridge. First off, get the processor. Again, we're using the AMD R7 1700. We'll just take our latch, open it up. We'll take our processor, match the triangle with the triangle. There you go. We'll just close it and it latches in. Scariest part of the build is over. Yeah. Nice and simple. All the little tiny pins are out of the way. Yeah. Safe home in the CPU socket. Yeah, safe home in the CPU socket. Now we're going to be doing 16 gigs of DDR4. We're going to use Corsair Vengeance. It's a 3000 megahertz RAM, so it'll pair nicely with the Ryzen. We'll be able to take advantage of that. So we'll be putting it in the second and fourth slot according to the motherboard manual for dual channel. That is the ideal place to put it. Just going to take it out, line up the slot with the post, push it down until it clicks. And while we're on RAM, there's a question from unknownuser1. Is Ryzen still picky when it comes to RAM? A little bit. The BIOSes have been getting updated, so the memory support is better. As you go above 3000, it can become a little bit more tricky. You may need to manually set some timings, do a little bit more research on how to set that for your board. But it is much, much better than launch. Yeah. For our storage, we're going to use an M.2 SSD because no cables. Very simple. We're using the Western Digital Black 512 gigabytes, and it is an NVMe drive, so we'll get that super fast. Yeah. Also, added benefit of the speed. Remove this screw. So basically just set it in here. Slots in very easily. There you go. Screw it back in, and there we go. We're using the NZXT X52 crack-in cooler. Right. So it does not use the same mounting that comes standard on it. So what we need to do, it uses the back plate, does not use this mounting. So we need to go ahead and remove these, and we'll attach the mounting hardware for the cooler prior to doing anything else with the motherboard. Right. Just go ahead and kind of get it out of the way. That way we're not trying to do it while the case is sitting upright or in an awkward position. Now you've got those removed. There's a question again from the chat. Ash19256 asks, what's the rationale for using a non-stock CPU cooler for this build? We could use the air cooler that comes with it, but then also for the aesthetics and some of the clean lines and stuff like that. Right. We have a really nice tempered glass case. It's a high-end case, and so we had a CLC, so it'll run a little bit quieter. Yeah. It looks really nice. The NZXT on the CPU block matches the case. So you could obviously stay with the stock cooler if you'd like. Yeah. I'll come back to the cooler in a little bit when we do a little bit more with it right now. Just want to use this. And this does come stock with the AM4 bracket. Correct. The one that we have is the previous, I guess, previous gen that did not come with it, NZXT sent us the bracket for it. So now it's essentially the same thing as the V2. Yeah. There's Rev2 versions of the 62, 52, and I believe the 42. Yes. And all of the Rev2s are the AM4. The bracket is included in the box. We'll just take these. Still the same back plate. We've not done anything with it. I just need to twist these a little. Just finger tight. No need to, don't try to keep tightening. Once you feel it kind of stop, just stop. Okay. H700N, I'm a little bit biased. I like the matte white. So it seems like NZXT consistently does a nice white paint job. Yeah. All right. So we took the, of course, tempered glass side panel. We're going to be putting in the radiator in up top. So we just need to pop the top off. Right. And this is the first NZXT case that does this, I believe, right? I think so. Or the first series of cases. Yeah. These new H cases. It's not as easy to come off as the back panel is. Probably easier if you had full access to it as well. I'm kind of in your way there. All right. So we'll take the top off. We're also going to go ahead. It comes with a removable radiator bracket up top, which makes installing the radiator super, super simple. This comes off. All right. I'm just going to stick that right there. Screws in here. The back panel, that's probably my favorite back panel to come off. No thumb screws, just a button. And it literally just falls off and you just catch it. Very easy. A little bit about the case real quick for a move forward. Yeah. It's obviously got this very dynamic bar. It can be moved to an alternate position that'll move it slightly this way. Not a ton, but just enough if you need a little bit of extra room for clearance and stuff like that. There's three screws, one at the top, one at the back, one at the bottom that you can use, or if the bar is just not your thing, you can completely remove it. Right. And it's also got this smart device right here, which we'll talk about a little bit later on once we get stuff hooked up and running and everything like that. Two USB 3.0, two USB 2.0, head mic in the front IO. And then the back has all of these channels for cable routing, depending on which way you want to go. Or if they're not your thing, if they get in your way or something like that, they are completely removable also. Nice. Can you do a brief overview of the airflow while we got it kind of like, how does the airflow work in this case? Where does it come from? So it comes with three 120 millimeter fans in the front, one 140 in the front. One 140 in the rear. One 140 in the rear, correct. So it's going to pull airflow in through the front. This is going to exhaust it out the back. And then the way that we'll set the radiator is also going to be an exhaust, so it'll also exhaust at the top. And it has side venting. All the little holes you see are where all the venting is, I guess, along the side here, along the top up here, and then the back as well. And on the back of the case is the exact same thing. There's venting along the side of the front panel and the top. Yeah, basically. And the bottom is open. Yeah, it mirrors the same. The other thing is it's got these SSD trays right here. It's got one in the front and you take them out, it's just got a, just a little push button and it pushes it down or a little push side, I guess, not really a button. They just pop out real easy. SSDs installed there. Then you also have two more right here that you can move around. All these holes right here are basically mounting for it. So you can spin it around if you want, move it, position it or anything like that. And then, or if you don't need them, you can just take them out. It's pretty, pretty painless. So, and then the other thing I need to take off is the power supply mount. Next, just set that off to the side. It does have a filter in the front. Of course, I'm not going to take off the front, but it's got a filter up front and then a filter for the power supply down at the bottom. Okay. I think that's it. I will say that the smart device comes with three basically fan extensions for, you can put, I think I added it up. You could attach a total of four, 12 fans total, just using the smart device, using no motherboard headers or anything like that, just to control that. And we'll go into more of that later. Okay. Our power supply for this build is the Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, 850 watt power supply. So let's go ahead and take this thing out. Accessories. There's the power supply and here is our baggie of cables. It comes with plenty of them. Yeah. It was quite a few cables. Yeah. So we have our 24 pin that we will need. We have our eight pin CPU, which we do need. It does have, if you're running Threadripper or something like that, I believe it does have one more. I have our PCI cable. Yeah. Yep. So there's an additional EPS cable. Yeah. For Threadripper, XT9 and something like that. But you won't need those. It's got SATA cables here and then Molex, which we're going to need. It also has, this is just, I think after we do several builds, you kind of start getting picky about a lot of stuff, but this is kind of very nice to me because it's a SATA cable that only has two and we only need two for this build. So I don't have all the extra sitting around. So I really like that. And the one on the end there, if you want to show that real quick, is straight. It's straight, not at an angle. Not at an angle. Yeah. Which is very convenient when you're installing, especially installing SSDs against a tray or against a back panel. It's much better to have the straight connector. You don't have to do the funky bend or anything like that. So, and then we have another Molex, which actually, is this only two? I'll trade them out. I'll trade them out. I have another SATA, another SATA, and then an additional PCIe with a 6 plus 2 or 8 and then a 6 plus 2 on that also. Yeah. So the first thing I noticed about this power supply is it is small. Yeah. I think 140 millimeters, 140 millimeters long, which is for an 850 watt power supply is short, which is nice. Even if you're going, even if you're like my case has plenty of room, it's still nice because it gives your cables extra space to go in there and they're not pushed up against the hard drive tray. Right. Yeah. 80 plus gold, fully modular. Yep. 850 watts and only 140. Yeah. Let's you fit it in a lot of cases too. Cause as you start to go up in wattage, you can definitely have issues with space requirements as you try to build smaller and smaller builds. Yeah, exactly. So we'll start with our SATA cable right there. Okay. A new Molex cable. Let's have it. We have our PCIe, our EPS cable right there. And of course our 24 pin. There we go. I'm going to need to get out some screws and also give you an extra or an additional few strip to use in there. Put it out a little bit and then extension for it also. Again, we're going fan down. Right. And I'm not sure if you can see it from the side angle, but there actually is a, there are rubber, like rubber rails here for sound damping as well. You brought up sound also, because one of the things with this case is we're going to try to keep it quiet while performing. This power supply also has basically a hybrid mode for the fan, which we're going to turn on. So you just push it in. You won't be able to see the fan spinning or not spinning, but we're basically going to turn that on because when we do install it, we do have a profile set up with their smart device to keep things quiet while performing. So we will use that also. Right. Yeah. I love hybrid fan profiles. If it's not on there, the fan doesn't even turn on and it just, there's no noise at all. Exactly. Starting to be a mess of cables. So I'm just going to try to address it a little bit before I start putting stuff in there just to make it a little bit easier. So I've got, this is our PCIe. We do have a little pass-through for the PCIe. Actually, I'm going to do that in a second. It'll be easier to get these out of the way. Go ahead and stick the eight pin up here. Get it tucked away. Get it nicely. And that's convenient. While you're pulling that in, it's an entire open area up here, which is nice because some other brands of motherboards, I think Asus does it, they'll sometimes put the connectors in the middle. I've seen the eight pins all the way to the right side of the board. So having the full flexibility up there is very convenient. And I mean, also just instead of having a little hole that can be a little bit difficult to get it in, it's a whole bar. So now we're going to take our 24 pin. And what I found to be the easiest is don't try to stick it straight over. You've got this big open area up here. Just take advantage of it for right now. We're just resting it there. Okay. And then our Molex and our saddle will stay back here. So we're going to kind of tuck these back over here. So we'll lay the motherboard down, not wobbling all over the place. It looks like you also had a question. Is there USB 3.1 on the front panel? There is 3.1. There's not type C. Right. There's no type C on this. But the actual routing for the power supply cable going through the shroud is really nice to see as well. Not all the shrouds have it. You oftentimes have to come out of the side. Yeah. Through the shroud itself, it lets you take the cable straight down from the graphics card. Right. It looks really clean. And some people may not, like there's no grommets anywhere in here. For this, I think it works. It's not a huge hole. It's a small hole. It's just enough to get probably two eight pins or whatever you need if you're running SLR or something like that. Real quick, I'm going to go ahead and put in the IO shield. Okay. Which same as every other IO shield, put it in, push the corners. Click when secure. Is this one padded? It is padded. It is padded. Very nice. Finger friendly. Finger friendly. No blood sacrifice back there. No blood sacrifice. And the standoffs are pre-installed. Standoffs are pre-installed. There is a post in the middle, so that kind of helps you line up your motherboard with the other standoffs. All right. There we go. So before we install the cooler, we're going to go ahead and plug in our power cables. Because once we put the cooler in there, it can kind of start to get hard to plug in the power supply or the 24 pin. So let me go ahead and grab this thing. Start with the 24 pin. Yeah. Start with the 24 pin. There we go. Eight pin. Nice. I usually have to go one at a time on the eight pin. All right. So we've got those two out of the way. Those are going to be the main two that may start to get in the way with the cooler. The rest will wait until we flip over everything. So the cables right here, we've basically got is we've got our cable that plugs into the pump that also has fan extensions off of it, plug into our CPU, and then our power for SATA. And then this is our data cable, which let us talk with cam and all that good stuff. We need to remove the stock bracket that comes with it, which is super simple. Basically just twist it. I did it faster than I thought. So you basically just twist on and there we go. It comes right off. So let's stick that one right there. We've got our AMD bracket. You want to make sure that you get this straight up and down or else if you're OCD like me, your logo in the center, you can't sit now because it's not light up. It's going to be slightly askew and drive you crazy. Just set it in. Yep. I just did it the wrong way. Basically want to set it on there. So it's slightly crooked because then when you turn it straight. Yes. Enzyme Cake asked, what let us go for the X52 over the X62? We have the X52 from a previous build that we used. That's why there's no pre-applied thermal paste. Normally there's pre-applied thermal paste. That was the next question. Yep. The way this bracket goes in is this goes on the back part of the case. So it's basically like this. So you just want to make sure that you're aware of how you're putting your fan in for how your tubes are going to drop down. Everything like that. And we're going to do it right here to where we're putting the radiator basically more towards the front of the case. We'll use the bar to our advantage to kind of hide some of the tubes and everything like that to make it look neat. And then the fans are actually going to go. Just want to get it aligned. You need to be careful. I will say this. You can fit a 280 up here or a 240 or 360 or anything like that. But what you do want to make sure of is that you're aligning it correctly because even though you may have slots over here, you may be knocking out screws right here. So it's not, you can't position it anywhere you want along this axis. It's kind of got a couple fixed points. Right. You have to line it up so all of the screws are visible and usable. Trick for this is it's going to get a couple screws on each fan started and then your other holes line up. You're just going to pull this through here. Just going to kind of let it sit nicely. There you go. You just line it up with the thumb screws you just cut out before. There we go. And since thermal paste is not pre-applied, we have a tube of MX4 that we'll be using. It is normally pre-applied. We don't currently have it on because we're reusing the cooler. You'll have to use, we have to use our own paste. Like a surgeon. It's a judgment-free zone. So please do not judge my thermal paste. Spin it around, kind of adjust our pipes a little bit. All right. Then you just kind of hold it down. And do you screw them all the way in here or do you just get them a little bit tightened? I just get them just a little bit tightened and then we'll go back with the screwdrivers. You don't want to over tighten them as you're putting them in here because then it'll start to pull off the other sides. So now we'll tighten everything up. There we go. All right. So now what we need to do, we need to take care of our USB 3.0, our front panel, our HD audio. We need to give power to this guy. The motherboard only has two USB 2.0 headers. We actually need three for this build because we have two USB 2.0 on the top of the case. Our Kraken takes USB 2.0 interface with cam and the smart device also. So since we're going to be doing that, we're going to put in our NZXT hub. A nifty little thing just basically expands your USB 2.0. Right. So you can plug in extra devices. It's even got a couple where you can plug in a thumb drive or traditional. HD audio. There we're here. Stay. Front panel. Okay. Yeah. These will stay back here. I thought I just did this cable and route these fans down this way also. So there's an ever so slight little channel right here in the top that you can kind of fit your fans down through. You do want to make sure that they're not setting in or down in the grates for the fan, especially if you're pulling air in through this way. Right. So stick those right there. All right. There's some stuff that needs to happen down here. All right. So first off, I'm going to get this guy out of my way. So common misconception that people have about these little straps right here. You just strap them over like that. It's not really the best way to do it. Just pull it all the way out. Put your cables that are going to be under it, under it. That's actually one more. This is going to be for cracking. Hopefully in a second. Put this guy through up here. USB 2.0 cable. And just set him up this way. Plug him in in a second. So, but back to this. So you just push the Velcro strap through. I like to give it a little, if you give it a little bend, that thing will zip ties it. Helps it stick a little bit better. So we've got that out of the way. I'm not trying to do any extensive cable management right now. I just want to get all the light cables together so I can get everything actually plugged in. This guy over here. So one thing to note, we are using a Kraken. Normally you would plug the fans for the Kraken into the cable that comes with the Kraken. Any fan that you're going to use with the smart device, even if it is a Kraken or something like that, you need to plug in to the headers that are actually plugged into it. So it comes with three headers or three, I guess, extensions. Each extension has four cables on it. The ones in the case are already plugged in. So now we're going to plug in these extras. Right. So you can plug 12 fans into the controller in the case. Okay. Back fan's already plugged in. Here's our SATA. So we use this nice short SATA cable right here. And what I'm plugging in right now is the SATA power for the smart device. Okay. And then right here is going to be the SATA power for our Kraken. The only thing I should have left, these are just going to sit over here for now. So anything I have left are 2.0s. That's where this guy is going to come in. Right. The expander. Yeah. The expander. So what we have plugged in right here is we have one plugged in right here. It's a different color than the other ones. And that's the one that actually plugs that actually plugs into the motherboard. And then we have our Molex power. Right. So I'm going to wrap the one from the motherboard through the channel here. Get him in a happy spot. Pull this guy back here, and then we'll go ahead and plug in all the rest of these. There we go. And it is magnetic, and the case is all metal. Yeah. So it will just sit right there in the bottom. Yep. Nice. And the last thing we need to do is everybody's favorite part, and that's plug in the Molex. Right. So what I always suggest is hold it at the back, whatever you're plugging in, because you don't want your pins to get pushed. Right. And then just push it in. Nice. Very easy. Just to make it a little bit simpler for when we flip it over so some of these cables aren't bunched up or fall out or anything like that. If you want to go ahead and hand me the top panel. Dan McLeese from the chat was asking, does the FanHub come with the case? Yes. The smart device does come with the case. It's currently right now not sold without the case. Right. Yeah. I call it a FanHub because that's kind of the easiest way to reference it, but it is more than that. And I think we'll be going into that a little bit more. Yeah. Yeah. We can go into some of it now. So it's got a spot for three fans on it basically right now that have extensions off of it. And then it also has a hue strip plugged into it. That's a little bit different than the normal hue strip. This is hard and it's actually mounted to the case. It does have an extension where you can plug in an additional hue strip, or I think you can remove that and put an additional five air fans, which are their RGB fans, off of it also. Or you can run, I think, a total of, it comes with one strip pre-installed, it comes with another strip you can use, and then I think you can attach two more strips on that too. Right. So we'll set this down. This just fits in. Oh, that's what I like to see. The back panel goes on that easy. Cable management's done. First off, I'm gonna go ahead and plug in the Kraken before I forget about it. And which header are you using? This is the USB 2 that's plugged into the, that's plugged in down there. We've not actually plugged it in yet. And I'm going at this blind right now. You got it. Easy. So this one is our power. To the pump. Yeah, to the pump. And I really don't want to go at this one blind because it doesn't. Right, there are some pins on the end. There are some pins and you can't bend them. Yes, you can. I don't want to do that. Yeah, just push it in. And is that one keyed as well? It'll only go in one direction? It will only go in one direction unless you try to force it, in which case, if you try to force something in, anything will go in. So now we have our HD audio cable, which is right over here. That plugged in. We have our USB 2 that goes to our hub there. And then we have our front panel connectors, which we get to use. This is a little bit different than other connectors. This is gigabytes G connectors. So what you do, just separate everything out. And then it basically has on here wrote where everything needs to plug in on both sides and which way positive, negative be. So we're going to start with our hard drive LED, which is on this side. And then it pushes in and it snaps into place, which I really like. Yeah. Our power LED and then our power switch. Yeah, not a lot coming from the front of this case. There is no reset switch or anything like that. So and then it's actually colored down here. So you know which way to plug it in. It's going to go just like this. If you have any questions about it, you can always refer to the motherboard manual. And it is also keyed. Yes. So it'll only go in one direction again. Right. And M13BS, how easy do those fall out of that connector? Not that they don't. They're actually a little bit difficult once you snap them in there. If you need to take them back out, you want to make sure that you don't break the little clip. So once it gets in there, it's pretty, it's pretty snug. We've got our USB 3.0 here. And then all we have left is our graphics card. All right. So we're going to take out the second and third slot, basically line up with your X16 slot. I saw that one coming. And our video card for this build is the Sapphire RX Vega 64. Yeah. A little bit different packaging. Right. And this is the special edition. Yeah, this is the limited edition. Here it is, Vega 64. The limited edition, it's a brushed aluminum shroud instead of plastic. So, and then this is kind of small, but I do like it. The back is just painted a flat black. Not that I look at the back of my case a lot, but if I know that it's flat black, then I know that it looks good in the back. Right. So we'll stick this in. Open up our X16 slot. Clicks in. Just use the screws we took out to attach it back. And we'll plug in, it's dual 8 pin, so we'll plug in our 6 plus 2 first. Well, they're actually technically both 6 plus 2. I actually did it the backwards way I wanted to. Plug in the daisy chain off of it first. Right. There you go. Get that, get some of that extra. And while we're here, there was one more question from chat, Red Mage Cecil asking if the white bar would interfere with larger or longer graphics cards, the cable management bar. I don't believe so. I believe you can't really, there's not a good angle of it right now, but the card actually, yeah, it goes over the bar. Yeah, it goes over the bar. It's not going to interfere with the bar because there's only so far back that the graphics card can sit because it's sitting in the X16 slot. Right. And one last thing, normally the graphics card is the last thing unless we need more RGB. We always need more RGB. So the pre-installed Q-strip is up here. You can probably tell it's a little bit different. It's not flexible. It's actual hard material. It's a PCB screwed into the top of the case. So, and then it's got this extension that basically goes from back here all the way back over here. Then you just take the white arrow, line it up with the back black strip on here, get it plugged in, tuck it up out of your way. Then we'll stick it right there. There we go. There you go. While you're getting set up, there was another question. Is it possible to place a 24 pin cable under the white bar rather than above it? That's actually how we installed it. It's kind of off to the side, but it's not going over the cable management bar. Not sure if you mean like if it's up here and that's basically going to depend on your power supply. Depends on your power supply. It depends on the 24 pin physical location on the board too. Right. Yeah. Ours is up more higher. It's also got the heat shrink on it. So it's just setting up there. That way we're not putting again any like undue stress or anything like that on the connector. Right. So I'll flip the switch. Actually, I'm going to need to put the top one because I need the power button. Yeah, the power button. Appreciate it. Switch. I don't know if we've switched the boxes that we use. There we go. Okay, perfect. I did get the right one. I'll go ahead and start talking about the smart device a little bit. So the way that it works is right now when Windows is booting up and everything like that, it's just that a default profile. I believe cam defaults everything when cam is not running to silent. Right. So as Windows starts to load and cam starts up, you'll probably hear the fans ramp up for a second and then ramp back down. And we did go ahead and do the adaptive profile which basically runs everything through. It kind of lets your computer sit there at idle. You don't really want to be talking really loud near it. You know, nothing more than kind of a hush conversation just because that could kind of skew the test. And then, there it goes. It just ramped up a little right there. And then it's gonna, after you do that, here I can actually, well now it's dead silent. Yeah. So and if you'll notice the back fan stops spinning. Right, right. That is intentional. Yeah, that is intentional. You're over here. So this is the tab. It's basically smart control. Step one, if I can go over here, is basically it's going to listen to you your computer at idle. You just basically let it sit there. And then it's gonna say, hey play your favorite game. And then you're gonna sit there and you're gonna play your favorite game. It wants the CPU to be above 20 percent, the GPU to be above I believe 40 percent. That way it can get a good reading. So if your fan's real noisy or something like that, that's what it's actually listening to. And that's why it wants everything plugged into it. That way it can adjust the fans based off of that. And its goal, so default is silent for the cam setting. Right. Its goal is to not really beat silent. Its goal is to be quieter than performance while keeping your CPU below 70 degrees Celsius. Right. So that's basically what its goal is. It doesn't control the GPU or anything like that. Even though you can overclock your GPU in cam, it does not control that. And you can set a manual fan curve right in cam. Yeah, you can set a manual fan curve in cam. The adaptive profile that it sets kind of takes out some of the guesswork for you. Like some people just sets it on, you know, I'm going to go full bore. Your fan's at 100 percent and it's loud. Some people that doesn't bother. Other people, you know, are like, well I know the custom profiles that I want. Right. And then some people are like, I have no idea what to do. Yeah. This really helps. And then honestly with the back fan stopping every now and then it gets it quieter probably than my default profile would be. Yeah, absolutely. So it's going to go through the preset and then it's going to go to a calibration. And what the calibration is going to do is it's going to start putting your CPU under stress. One little quirk right now is that once the CPU gets to about 50 percent, it kind of stopped. So what I, all you really needed to do at that point is just, I loaded up Assassin's Creed Origins again and just basically that just put it over the hump because it wants to get the CPU above 90 percent usage or whatever. And then it finishes out the test. Then you close out whatever your game is. And then it's going to sit there and idle and it's going to calibrate. Once it calibrates, it's going to say it's calculating. Once everything's at a hundred percent, it's going to calculate. And what that basically is doing is talking to the cloud, figuring out what the best thing is going to do. And then it's going to go to the adaptive profile and then it's going to basically calculate everything again or kind of set up everything again, listen to it again, make sure it's where it wants it to be. And then you can see basically it'll show your idle that was at the preset. It'll show your idle that's at adaptive. Your sound may go up, your sound may go down. It'll also show it for load. Right. Now I think for load, we basically stayed roughly the same. We didn't get any cooler or we didn't get like, you know, noticeably like five or 10 degrees cooler or something like that. We didn't shave 10 decibels off the sound of our case or something like that. But you will notice that our fans actually ran a little bit slower. So it was a little bit smarter the way to do it. The big thing that I noticed with idle is you did actually drop about a decibel and a half of idle. And again, back fan stopped. I mean, I know I'm on the back side of the case, but I can't hear it. Right. And I'm a foot and a half from the case right now. Right. And our side panel is not on yet, which tempered glass also keeps some of the sound in, which I'm going to go ahead and put that back on now. And then we'll run a benchmark. For our Strike Ultra, we're going to turn off the demo. Just as a time. Yeah, just time. Yes, and we'll let it run. So building in the case, I really like it. The design, you know, the design of a case is kind of biased. Some people like some stuff, some people like this. I think it's clean, but it does have the angles, like angles down in the front and everything like that. Tempered glass, it's the end thing right now. The back panel is probably my favorite back panel of all time, which is having a push button and it easily opening and easily closing. So that button right there, I really like that. I want to see that more. The removable radiator mount up top, huge fan of. It just makes things easier when you're installing it or changing it out or troubleshooting it, or you just need extra room while you're in there working. The back fan actually just kicked on. Back fan kicked on, so everything is working right. The back of the case, the cable management routing, there's a lot of it. So you kind of have to think how you're going to route it and everything like that, which I kind of like that because it gives me some, it's kind of like, it's not, it's doing, it's taking cable management and making it a little bit new because before you had your zip ties stand up and you're like, okay, they want me to, you know, they designed for the cable to go down this way and everything like that. And then that just lets you fit it. The only problem I could see with it is if you have a power supply with bulkier cables, or if you have like just a ton of cables that you're trying to fit into it, it could probably get a little bit tight in there. So if that's the case, you'd probably want to just remove that section or whatever. Right, which is nice that it has that option. Right. And then the bar and the bar spots in the middle, it has different cutouts. So it looks like they took time to think, all right, stuff could be here, stuff could be here. And then it's also got tiny little slits that you can just run fan cables or USB stuff just to help tidy everything up, which I really like. The bar in the front, some people don't like the bar. I like the bar. I think it's the defining feature of the case. The first thing I saw when I looked at it. Yeah. And you can move it or you can remove it and do something special to it and then put it back in there, make your build stand out. Overall, it's solid. It's metal and glass. Yeah. So you can't really ask for too much more from a case. And then also just from the amount of fans that it comes with stock, it comes with four fans just out of the gate. And then it has plenty of room for you to actually plug in more fans, even if your motherboard doesn't support that many more fans. Kind of ridiculous amount of fans. Yeah, 12 fans. That's some serious pushing and pulling on some rats. So and then the SSD mounts, I know we didn't use them, but I like how easy they are to take out if you don't want them or just pop in. I will say that they've made them too so that if you're actually also using a Hue, the Hue would fit nicely in that and not be restricted by anything. Right. And then you can kind of move them around wherever you want them to move. That's the part that I like. They put it on here and they're like, some people may use one, some people may use two, some people may turn it sideways. It's kind of endless what you could do with it if you really wanted to make your case stand out. They probably couldn't hear it as I was talking, but you've probably noticed that the fan's been starting, stopping, starting, stopping, starting, stopping. Yeah. Starting, stopping, ramping up a little bit, ramping down. Right. The adaptive profile has definitely been in effect. Yeah. The one thing I will say about the adaptive profile is it did have its quirks to kind of, you know, we kind of had to figure out how to get past that 50 percent, you know, point. However, it doesn't keep warning. So if your settings change or your graphics card, your hardware changes or something like that, you will have to update it or it's going to keep the same profile as before. Updating it, it basically just goes back through everything again. Right. It says, you know, here's your steps, here's your new profile. It shows you the difference from before and after. Right. Sort of thing. And as an extension of that, the microphone is only operating when you run the calibration. Yes, the microphone is only operating when you run the calibration. Right. So it's not continually listening. Yeah. It's not a Google Home or Alexa. You can't say, case, please turn my fans up. Yeah. Yeah. It's not doing any of that. And it's, you know, and when it's listening to it and, you know, you may be thinking, well, when my fans get loud, doesn't it adjust it? It's adjusting everything based off the temperature. Right. Not based off of the sound. So, all right, there's our score. Validate it. And we'll have to turn the case to you at some point. They want to see our RGB LEDs. RGB LEDs. Well, it's a team red build. Yeah, it is. It is all red right now. We just have everything. We're not going to run through any of the fun color modes. You can check any number of our other videos. Yeah. To see those. So we scored a 52.85, which I think is better than it looks like. 69% of results. And CPU peaked at 46. Kraken doing its job. I'll scroll down here. Get the GPU. Peaked at 69. GPU peaked at 69. Yeah, it's not bad. Basically stayed the same as if we were doing the performance profile. Right. Got us a little bit quieter, noticeably quieter. Yeah. And with a reference card, that's a great temperature. Yeah. Keep it under 70 degrees for a full benchmark. That's great. Yeah. Yeah. One thing I will say concerning the LEDs is you've got the light bar at the top. It's kind of right now we're a glowing red or whatever. And then we've got the hue strip down the front. If you were to do one of the chase modes or something like that in the spectrum, you want to be careful of how you place your second strip because the hue strip up top is always going to be in the number one slot. So if you want to, you know, do a RGB spectrum, you know, where you're, you know, going the full color bandwidth and everything like that. Once you get here, it's going to start again over there. So it's not going to start at the bottom there and go over. Right. And you can't change that right now. Right. So this is going to be the top one. So if you wanted to do something like that, it does come with an extension that you can run it down the side and you can also buy additional hue strips that you can put it in. Yeah. So, but other than that, yeah, it's a nice, it's a, it's a solid case. So in my opinion, yeah, very straightforward build. So thanks for joining us for another successful live stream. And thanks again to NZXT and Seasonic for providing the case and power supply for this build. If you enjoyed our content or learn anything new, please give us a like subscribe and follow.