Climbing harnesses vs beal dynaloops - what breaks first?

I have some Dynaloops here that Bobby put on a harness and tested and we're going to pull straight and we actually have a surprising result that we did accidentally. So we promise this episode about Dynaloops will be as interesting as we can make it. Stay tuned. Hi, I'm Ryan Jinx and welcome to a Slack Snap episode where we test Dynaloops that Alex Sardo sent to us ages ago and then Bobby broke them a while ago and now we're just making an episode about them. What's awesome about Slackrastinating on making this video is we actually have some more results for this. So it's more complete on a product I've never even heard of before. Let me tell you about this. This is from Beal. It's 8.3 millimeters dynamic rope and it's rated to 22 kilonewtons. I think 8.3 millimeters is a pretty random number, but that's probably what it took to get to the 22 kilonewton mark. We're going to find out here in a few minutes because we have yet to pull these normal the way they probably test them in the lab. So one of the advantages is it looks really good against my black puffy, but the other advantage is it is more abrasion resistant compared to the Dyneema contact sling because it has a sheath and it is dynamic rope which means it will shock absorb your factor 2 when you fall directly on your anchor which happens all the time. One thing I actually see myself being able to use this extra one for is as a personal anchor because I don't really like the fact that most personal anchors have no shock absorption whatsoever as a highline rigger because if I fall off the cliff I'm shock loading a bolt or whatever I clip to. However, an anchor you're usually attached to a dynamic rope so is it really that important that your anchor stretches? I don't know. You can put that in the comments below. Some downsides to this is it's 50% more expensive than this and 400% heavier which means it's half the price per gram as this. It's all in how you look at it. You can see that it's a lot bulkier. I'm not going to want to take 10 of these things over my shoulder when I'm going up for a climb but they might have a place. Let's find out as Bobby explains to us how he tested them on harnesses because they do like the fact they can be used as personal anchor. Take it away Bobby. All right so one of the uses is as a personal anchor and it has it girth hits directly into the belay loop. So we had some old harnesses that Joshua McElderly, sorry if I screw up your name, sent us. The first was a Petzl Korax which when I started doing challenge course in 2008 we had a bunch of those and we retired them that year or the year after. So they're getting to be 15 years old, 20 years old. I still see people using them. They're a very popular harness. Most harness manufacturers recommend that you keep your harness for no longer than 10 years no matter if you used it or not. So we were interested to see what this harness broke at. So what we did is we girth hitched the dyno loop to the two hard points on the harness and then we pulled and we ended up breaking the harness at 20 kilonewtons. Then I was, since we had isolated the belay loop out and it was just um free now, we decided to break the belay loop and so we girth hitched that again and we broke the belay loop. At that point dyno loop was two, harness zero. So we moved on to another harness. This is the Black Diamond Sitbod which they've been making for a long time. This is still available from their website. They say the belay loop, which is gone now, broken, is rated to 12 kilonewtons. Josh says this harness is 20 to 25 years old. I'm not sure. My guess is that it's 15 to 20 years old and that's purely based on like the design of the label. There is no date on this that I could find. Our first test with this harness we girth hitched the dyno loop to the two hard points like so. As you can see a lot of material there. The belay loop was isolated out of this and we pulled and this was our third test with the first dyno loop we were testing and it broke around 20 kilonewtons and then we took another dyno loop, repeated the same exact test but it was brand new, hadn't been taken to near its maximum before and it broke at 22 kilonewtons and then we decided to give up on testing this because as you can see a little bit of wear but I would still probably climb with this harness if I inspected it and saw this. So then we girth hitched it to the belay loop and got 16 kilonewtons which is four more than Black Diamond on their website says that belay loop is rated two. Very interesting. So after we broke the belay loop we took that sling and broke it on the two hard points here. As you can see a lot of material there. It's not surprising that this amount of material is stronger than this amount of material. It was really interesting that it was breaking here in the stitching instead of in the knot which is what we normally see and as I was reviewing that data today I realized we had never pulled them just straight. It had always been in a girth hitch so we'll do that later and then Ryan testing something completely different had a very interesting discovery which he will talk about now. So Bobby basically tested these as a personal anchor whether it's attached to the two hard points or the belay loop which means your harness is probably going to break first. If you're going to see 22 kilonewtons on your harness you're already got problems. I was testing a hanger out here on the concrete and I just was trying to do a quickie and so I doubled it up and then made my sliding X and this with our other 240 centimeter version of this we got a hundred over 100 kilonewtons in this configuration. So I have an extra dyno loop laying around so I use it to hold the hydraulic cylinder because there's no way I'm going to get to 100 kilonewtons testing the CMI hangers we're testing again. It broke at 42-ish kilonewtons and I was like what? Something that's doubled up and doubled up again which is basically what this and a sliding X is should have given me like 4x22 and I only got 44 and it's you know it's dynamic it has abrasion resistant I don't know what it would have got cut on but it did not break in the stitching. It broke somewhere else and there's no way to tell where it broke. My hydraulic went flying which I love because that makes the testing way more interesting when everything goes the way it's supposed to it's actually pretty boring breaking bolts. Now that I would say is our one and only test which one is all you need for science in order to come up with inclusion you're still not going to die using this as an anchor because I don't know what situation you would ever get 22 or even 44 kilonewtons on an anchor even in high lining you'll have bigger problems when you get to that part. So anyways now let's find out if we just pull it straight what happens. 21.04 Wow so in case this carabiner went and hit the the rod I put that on there so this is a 60 inch rod wow okay so from the carabiner to this now stretch it probably was not this stretched out it's almost three feet it's stretched and it was a four foot loop so almost double possibly double depending how you calculate that where to break next to the loop yep next to the stitching and the plastic cover came all the way over here nice you can see it blew apart yeah there that's pretty cool so here we have the pink one doubled up and we got some bigger bend radiuses here to preserve our carabiners however it was breaking here and so I don't think that's going to affect our results and we always like to leave the tags on so we can look for them later 47.08 man we got 21 last time straight oh wow feel this it gutted this thing oh no it didn't catch it soon enough I'm trying to keep the rod nice yeah so it ultimately failed in the stitching like all of the other ones we've tested when we've done the same tests these do not break in the stitching they break where they meet the carabiner or the shackler wherever or in the knot or in the knot definitely in the knot that's inside of ropes in case you were wondering what are your thoughts Bobby final thoughts is if you want to buy these you should so there were a dozen or so people pruning the vineyard out there and they all took off in a hurry after we just did that test sure it sounded like a shotgun I'm super curious why we got more than double than the first test because you usually get less than 200 when you double something up so for example uh let's say this breaks at 22 ish I'm not going to get quite 44 per se out of this you get always lose some efficiency it's never exactly double but that was super interesting the fact that it was more than double so I did the same thing in my anchor out there to hold my hydraulic in a sliding x doubled up so in theory I should have been getting 80 ish and I only got 40 ish and my hydraulic went flying so I'm not going to do that again I think this is pretty interesting we're not going to probably go down this rabbit trail too much more um I do appreciate Alex Sardo for donating them and thank you Joshua McElderly for donating the harnesses this channel has become what it has become because so many people chip in Bobby did a lot for this episode he just spent a while reviewing and prepping what we're going to talk about just today alone and so thank you for those who have supported us so far we are going to build a drop tower that episode is going to probably come out before this one we'll get feedback we'll build it's a lot of behind the scenes before you guys see finished products today Bobby and I were working on the book of numbers in the Bolton Bible and we're trying to consolidate all 300 plus data points and putting them in nice beautiful condensed charts and packages for you guys to see so the Bolton Bible 2021 version is going to be sick make sure you go to slackline.com and check that out please go to slackline.com slash donate and help support this channel let us know in the comments below what you want to see broken and what you think of what we broke here I appreciate you guys oh by the way 80% of you according to the analytics are not subscribed it doesn't cost you anything I just I'd love to grow just push the subscribe button if you made it all the way the end of this dynaloop video at the minimum I appreciate that thank you