DIY BARN DOOR | Barn Door For $100

Hey guys, welcome back to our channel. We are just going to jump right into this video today. If you watched our last video of our bedroom makeover, we told you we were going to upload a separate video where we went into more detail on how to build this barn door. And so that's what we're going to do today. I will include some timestamps down below. If you guys want to skip ahead where we go through all of the tools you're going to need, all the materials you're going to need. If you don't need to watch all of that, feel free to skip ahead where Thomas explains the different size wood and the different cuts you're going to need to build this door. We picked up all of our supplies from home Depot this time. And we got four of these one by six by 10 boards. We got three of these one by four by 10 boards. You'll also need 10 of these plates. And these are just 65 cents a piece. And we also picked up nine of these one by four by three. So these are only three feet long. And the reason we did this is because we wanted some one by twos and our home Depot didn't have any, I think we ended up cutting four or five of these in half, which made them one by twos. So to make this easier, just look in the description box below, click on that arrow below the video. And I will have a list of every single piece of wood and all of the materials you're going to need. First I'm going to go over the list of the tools that you have to have to complete this job. And then I'm going to kind of go into the ones that will make the job easier for you. If you can spend a little extra money on the equipment here. So first things first, you have to have a miter saw or a chop saw. It has to be a double bevel one where it can change degrees because of the angle cuts you need to get done. Um, it can't just be a single chop saw. That's the first one. The second one is you're going to need a pin nailer. So I always use a finish nailer, which are the smaller nails because you don't, you want them to be hidden more versus the big nails. So this is, uh, that's 18. This is an 18 inch. Good thing I have. I always buy your nails. So I know, I know what it is. You do always want my nails. So the nails I have here were two inch nails, which obviously obviously isn't going to work when you're using these one by fours because they're actually not even an inch or three quarters of an inch. So I had Ashley go get me an inch and a quarter pin nails. So it would sink in enough, but also not penetrate the other side. So it's very important. You get the right size nails for the job. A drill is a super crucial tool to have. I like impact guns way more than I like just a regular drill and impact gun is the smaller one. The tips you're going to need, you're going to need a three eighths drill because you're gonna have to drill on the top of the barn door to get your hardware to fit in through. So it's three eighths, any type of drill bit. Well, not any type, make sure it's for wood. You're going to need a regular star tip also. So those are your bits. You're going to need a small little bit. Um, I think it's like a 16th of an inch that you want to use to pre-drill your holes. When you're using your metal plates on the back, I pre-drill with this like you saw in the video. So you're going to need a compressor because your gun won't work. Obviously that your compressor, I use these metal to wood screws cause they have a large head and the metal plates, it really grabs onto it and pulls it into it. So it doesn't go very deep. These are only, I think nine 16th of an inch. So they're strong enough to hold the plates together, but it's not too much to go through the wood. And you obviously need to take measures. Very important. I'm a huge fan of round sanders. I'm not a big fan of just the vibrating sanders. If it doesn't spin, I don't feel like it does a good enough job. Um, this is a Bosch. I feel like of all the sanders, by the way, you guys none of these tools that I'm using are like, it's not like a sponsored ad from anyone. It's just the tools that I prefer. I've gone through a lot of round centers and this one has lasted me the longest and done the best job. So I really liked the Bosch round centers. First, you're going to want to use like an 80 grit to, to get the rough edges and the splinters out. I started with an 80 grit and then I moved to a two 20 to really smooth it out and give it that like finished look feel. If you've ever used, um, pin nails, they're not like the most secure way to hold something together. So I always back up anytime I'm shooting in or even screwing in with wood glue. I feel like it gives it that extra strength that you know that it's going to last and you don't have to worry about it six months to a year down the road. You can tell that I've used this thing a lot on so many different projects. It's finally running out. The color is honey. Make sure you're using the same type of wood for the whole door. Don't go and get a more expensive piece mixed with a cheaper piece for different areas. They'll stay in different, especially if you're using honey. Honey looks very different on different types of wood. So make sure the wood you're getting is all that pine or white common board versus, Oh, I want to use some cedar for these pieces. Just don't do that. Stick to one type of wood. Something that is not essential for this job, but it's nice and makes it a lot easier are clamps. For example, when you're doing the frame of the door, these types of boards, the white pine boards are not always perfectly straight. So when you're trying to piece them together and you want your lines to be very flush so there's not gaps and you want to use these long clamps to kind of pinch it together, allow the glue to set, allow when you're screwing in the back that it's evenly. So these are really nice. I think these are like $12 at Harbor Freight and you get them in a two pack. So these ones are really nice to have. And you also want a smaller plant that when you're putting your pieces on and getting them lined out, you can pinch down your 45s, shoot it into place, have your glue in there and you don't have to worry about it moving around. So it kind of holds it there. So it makes it a one person job versus a two person job. I probably use this more on carpentry work than almost any tool I have besides the saw. This keeps everything square. It keeps everything straight. I make sure I don't drop it and ding it up because all it takes is one little bend and it would throw off every job I have. So I can take this started at the top and line it down the center of the door. That's how I found my center. And then I marked all the way down the center with a light pencil. That way I could go back and get it off of my sander before I started to stain it. But the doorway is 80 inches tall. That's from the carpet to the actual door casing way. So I'm going to go a little bit higher, like 80 and a half inches because you want a little bit beneath the bottom of it, but you also want it to hang over the top of the door. So it covers all of the space, even though this doorway is going to be different or this door is going to be different than any door I've ever done because there's gonna be holes all over it. So I guess you just want to make sure you cover that top casing. Here is a door framed together. We haven't actually put it together yet, but as you can see here, this is 36 and a half inches wide. This board that he cut here in between is 25 and a half inches. So we have two of those cut at 25 and a half inches and the side pieces cut at 80 and a half inches. I don't want the wood to split when I screw these screws in to hold these together. So I'm going to pre-drill my holes, but I also don't want the bit to go all the way through the piece of wood. So I'm going to get the distance of the wood and just instead of pulling out my tape, then go make a little safety net and never go deeper than my tape is. If I go past this tape, I'm in danger of going through the wood. So the space between these two boards is exactly 10 inches. Obviously if you're using the same exact size of wood, but that looks pretty even. So now he's just going to do the same thing with these. Once we got the basic design for the door frame finished, we added in one by fours on either side of the middle piece. So you'll see here in a second. Now you'll see there are one by fours there in the center. Okay. To take the measurements from being complicated, cut your 45s on two one by four common boards. Okay. Take the board, line it up where it's going to go and come underneath on the edge and mark your line. That way you don't have to say, okay, the distance from here to here and then cut 45s. It just makes it way easier to do it. We have this lined up here right in the dead center of the board as well. So that's how we're getting this shape. Thomas wanted to start with the center just to make it a little bit easier. And we didn't know the exact design we wanted to do. And we weren't planning on doing like a full tutorial on this because we weren't sure how this is going to turn out. So as you can see here, we kind of jumped ahead. Uh, we were not filming for this portion. I thought we were filming, but it wasn't filming. So I don't want this to confuse you. Thomas is going to go through every single cut and tell you exactly what cuts you're going to need and where those cuts are going to go. So it'll make a little bit more sense here at the end, but I do apologize that this is not like step by step by step. We tried to make this as informative as we possibly could. So I hope if any of you guys attempt this door, that this will help in some way. But as you can see here, he's first using some wood glue and then he's going and shooting in the pieces from beneath this way, you're avoiding any of those holes that the pin nails leave to apply the stain. He's using a paintbrush so he can get into all of the little cracks and then he's going back over it and wiping it down with a rag. You're going to want to work in small portions at a time. So apply it in one section, wipe it down and then go to the next section until you've completed the door. So when we originally came up with this design, we didn't have like a specific idea of how we were going to lay it out. So I kind of at first was over complicating it, but to make things like really clear, every single cut should be a 45 degree angle. You should not cut any other degrees. So that's your first step. The next step is we, I started with these center ones right here. I found the exact center of the door. I put each point from the 45s here and then I based my space off of what I wanted and I started with these. Okay. Once I put those in, it kind of laid out the graph of where I was going to be at. I then just pre cut everything because once I figured out they were all 45s, I didn't have to worry about, okay, I'm going to put this one here. I'm going to put this one here. So I did the diamond boxes after I filled in these squares and then kind of use the pieces that I wanted to. Now, I'm going to give you guys a detailed description of like how many cuts, if you want to do this exact door, I'll give you the exact measurements of the boards that I use to actually complete the door. The one by fours that you guys see here, the main pieces I use the most of the measurements on those to fit this exact door. So you have the exact one. So you don't have to worry about doing your cuts or your measurements yourself. These ones right here are 25 inches. So I have four at 25 inches. Then I have eight of these ones that you'll see up here. And then you see on the bottom down there, and those are 13 and a half inches. And then I have four of these at nine inches. So these are all the one by fours. And then I have eight of these at 17 and a half inches. I have eight of the one by twos at nine inches, which are these ones you see here. So those four, and then those four, and then I have four of the one by twos at 14 inches. So these ones to fill this in. And then I have four of these at six inches. Now these little triangles you guys see are just the end pieces of a 45. So like if this board was square, when I cut that off, I just stuck the pieces right here just to add it in. So it kind of looked opposite of the other side, but those are the only cuts that you're going to need for it. Down below you guys, you'll see the arrow and we call it the description box. I'm going to put a list of all of the measurements right there. So you can just copy and paste them and put them over to your notes. So when you're going through it, you don't have to keep bouncing back and forth to the video or hearing me tell you something always goes wrong. I feel like on every project we do, we run into some type of error. This house was built and I think like 1961, I know they had codes back then because it's a rule to have your studs on 16 inches. So in this house, for some reason, my studs were not at 16 inches and that's a big problem because these barn doors are created. So there are holes that you will see here to support it are at 16 inches on center. If my studs aren't at 16 inches on center, it creates a huge problem. So what I did is I took this trim piece back here, this one by four, I screwed that into the studs where I could find them with my stud finder. That way that's going to support all of these when you screw these in. So then you don't have to worry about them not being at 16 inches. Thank you guys so much for watching this video. If you have not yet hit that red subscribe button, make sure you do that and if you missed our bedroom makeover, I will have that linked right here as well as in the description box below. Thanks again for watching and we'll see you guys in the next video.