Cassette Removal & Installation

This video will walk through the process of replacing cassette cogs. The different procedures shown here are relevant for just about every type of cassette, including the SRAM 11 and 12 speed XT cassettes. Hello, Calvin Jones here with the Park Tool Company. The removal procedure is basically to hold the cogs from rotating while you turn the lock ring counterclockwise. For installation, you won't need to hold the cogs in place. Simply turn the lock ring clockwise with force. It's a pretty simple process as long as you have the right tool for the job. But before we talk tools, we'll note that not all rear sprockets remove the same way. There's another system called the freewheel, and the procedures in this video are for the cassette systems, not the freewheel systems. It can be difficult to differentiate between the two, so if you need help with that, watch this other video. A quick note is that the cassette cogs themselves are separated on the freehub by spacers. Spacers may simply be loose, or the spacers can be pinned between cogs. The tools and supplies needed are grease or anti-seize to lubricate the threads, a chain whip to hold the cassette during removal, and a wrench or some way to drive the correct lock ring removal tool. Here's a simple way to choose the correct lock ring tool. Look at the brand of the rear derailleur. It can be safely assumed that if the derailleur is branded Campagnolo, you'll need the BBT5-FR11. If your derailleur is any other brand, including Shimano, SRAM, Sunrace, or others, you'll need one of the FR5 series of tools. These FR5 tools all have the same lock ring tool fitting, but they have unique features, which will be covered as we walk through the process. Begin by removing the rear wheel. This bike does not have a Campagnolo derailleur, so we'll use a lock ring tool from the FR5 series. For the FR5.2, it is useful to use a skewer as a tool holder. Due to the design of some cassette hubs, there can be very little tool engagement in the lock ring. Because of this, the tool may slip out under heavy torque. To prevent this, remove the quick-release skewer nut and spring. Engage the lock ring tool and reinstall the nut. Snug the nut to the cassette lock ring tool. The FR5.2G has a guide pin. This prevents the tool from rocking sideways and becoming disengaged, so we do not use the skewer nut to hold the tool in place. The FR5.2GT has a larger guide pin for the 12mm thru-axle rear hubs. The FR5H has a handle built into the tool. The head has a large hole that fits over the skewer adjusting nut. The skewer nut inside the head acts as a guide. To keep the sprockets from rotating freely, we need to hold them in place with a chain whip. There are different styles of chain whips. On the plier-style chain whip, notice we've selected one of the smaller cogs to make the handle easier to squeeze. On these style chain whips, engage the fixed section of chain and wrap the free piece around the same sprocket. Turn the remover counterclockwise using a large adjustable wrench or a 1-inch wrench. The noise is from the serrations in the lock ring and the first cog. These lock against one another as the ring is tightened. If you use the skewer to hold the tool, stop and remove the skewer before continuing to remove the lock ring. Once the lock ring is out, and we remove the cassette stack, we are done with removal. Another useful technique is to use your body weight to your advantage by placing the wheel on the ground. Another technique is to hold the tool in a vice with the sprockets facing down. The vice acts as the opposing wrench. Turn the chain whip counterclockwise as viewed from above. Do not attempt to hold the wheel in place. In some cases, there will be a spacer behind the last sprocket. If you are reusing the cassette, throw a zip tie through them to maintain the same orientation. It is common to see a plastic spoke protector behind the last sprocket. This can be ignored or permanently removed as the cassette does not rest against the protector. In some cases, the cogs can dig into an aluminum freehub body, making the cassette cogs difficult to slide off. Use two chain whips. One will be used to hold the freehub, and the second will free the stuck cog by turning counterclockwise. The procedure to remove the cassette from the SRAM XD is basically the same. Notice there is no removable lock ring. Instead, there is a removable sleeve that accepts the lock ring tool. When installing a cassette, inspect the splines of the freehub body. There will be one extra wide space between the splines. Inspect the internal splines of the sprockets. Align the splines and engage all sprockets and spacers. Grease the threads inside the freehub body. Whichever cassette lock ring tool was used for removal can be used for installation. If you removed it with a quick-release skewer holding the tool, use the skewer for installation as well. A chain whip tool is not required for installation. The ratchets of the freehub body will keep it from rotating. Turn the lock ring tool clockwise with force. The recommended torque is about 40 newton meters. For perceived torque, that is about a 50 pound or 23 kilogram pull holding a wrench 8 inches from the lock ring tool. Double check that the cogs are secured by grabbing the cogs at either end and twisting. If there's play, there is likely a missing spacer. Check with the manufacturer for more information. Otherwise, the cassette is ready to go. The procedure for the XD freehub is similar. Begin by lubricating the threads inside the cassette. Place the cassette onto the XD freehub. Install the tool and turn it clockwise. Tighten to the same spec as before, about 40 newton meters. The process is now complete, but before you go, a few quick things. First, if this video helped you out, please give it a thumbs up. It makes a big difference and helps get this information out to more people. And back to the repair. Be sure to check your shifting, both limit screws, and the index adjustments. This other video walks you through the whole process. Also, it's a good time to check your chain for wear. The last thing you want is to get your new cassette damaged from a worn chain. And finally, if you want more information on any of the tools used in this video, head over to ParkTool.com Thanks for watching. And again, if this video helped you out, please give it a thumbs up, tell your friends about it, and of course, subscribe to our channel for more repair help from Park Tool.