Break testing climbing belay device - Edelrid Megajul

Would you like to see an Edelrid MegaJewel make a break on this episode of Slack Snap? Hi, I'm Ryan Jinks, and welcome to my garage. Today, we are going to break a Edelrid MegaJewel, and we have a guide mode and a normal one that we're going to break, and maybe we'll, depending on how things break, throw an ATC in here. So I'm going to show you how the Edelrid MegaJewel works and show you what we're going to do in the test. Okay, Bobby, what do we got here? So this is your Edelrid device. I have never actually used these outside. We just looked up a video on some website. We learned how to use this on YouTube? Oh yeah, that. Weird, what a place to learn stuff. But this is a little bit different than a lot of guide mode devices that I have used in that the rope goes up from the bottom of the device through the top, and then back down, and then you clip this through the whole device. It's kind of loaded exactly opposite of your normal belaying mode. Yeah, I have an ATC guide, and it's the opposite. I put the rope in that way. So this is our climber, or load strand here, and we would take rope up like this, but it has a target capture feature there if they were to fall and load it. Kind of a self-locking thing. So is this too small to give you full value strength out of your device? Because in theory, we would want the rope to break first and not your hardware. Here we just did a figure eight on this side because that's kind of a similar situation in real life, and we're only doing one strand because that's pretty much how you would use it unless you're guiding two people at one time using two different ropes or two different ends, and that would be different. But just for the sake, we're gonna see if the rope breaks before this piece in the back does. Well, that's interesting. I think I noticed it slipping before it broke the rope. So we got 8.25 kilonewtons, or 1,650 pounds of force. So I assume we can get more out of this enough to maybe up the rope, and if it breaks another, like let's say a 10 mil rope, because this is a nine millimeter rope, if it holds that, then we'll put two strands in there and really put this thing to the test. While Bobby is resetting this, make sure you go to hownottohighline.com. We have the bolting Bible on there, the chart for Slack Snap and all of these break tests, over 900 now, Bolt Buster chart, Slack line groups, maps, and calendars for festivals, and Highline University, where you can learn highlining A to Z. Everything's free, and it's all on hownottohighline.com. We are donation-based. It really helps if you spot us 20 bucks, if you watch all of our videos or read an entire book, and it super helped you and saved you money. Otherwise, just go check it out and enjoy it. It's free. And if you like coffee, we made a coffee business. We make specialty espresso, freeze dry it. So all you have to do is add this into some hot water. Great for camping, great for big-walling, great for backpacking, great for all that stuff. Super convenient. I know a lot of people who just drink it at home because it's a lot easier than making coffee. So go to drinkjunocoffee.com. Okay, so we're basically just de-sheathing this now. What the hell? Figure eights don't stay dressed once they hit a certain force. What happened? I cut the sheep and then it cut. But it rotated at some point. Five, six, seven. And it happened at 7.5 kilonewtons, or 1,550 pounds of force. It didn't rotate. Hold on, where's the carabiner? It's right there. Yeah, it's still in the same spot. What's the condition of this guy? It looks not... Yeah, that's what he wanted us to test and it's holding up just fine. Okay, we just looked at the footage. Basically, the carabiner opened from the wire. It wasn't locked. And then it rotated outside of the system. And then the rope got a twist because it was getting pulled, like the sheep was getting pulled separate from the core and it flipped into the carabiner. Yeah, what a mess. Let's just try to break this thing. Man, look at this thing. It's not symmetrical anymore. This has bent quite a bit. We're gonna take it to destruction, but that's just from the last one. Wow. So I don't really know what to say about this. At least, I don't know if it's good it breaks your ropes before the device breaks, but I mean, doubled rope, you should be getting more than 12.4 kilonewtons before it just desheaths your ropes. That, I don't wanna touch it, that little guy's still holding. So that's pretty impressive. This was locked this time and I believe that wire is jacked. So if we take this off, we'll take mode. We currently have 9.8 on there. I'm not afraid, even though I probably should be. Oh God. Don't touch, don't touch. Oh. We're still at five kilonewtons there. 4.9, okay. Oh, that was kind of fun. Okay, so this thing is whacked. It's a lot of fuzz. On earth. Check that out. So it. Oh, it flipped over itself. Yeah. Under itself. It's squished under like, this is a 10 mil too. It's not like it's too thin. Well, and this side of the device is smaller than it was before. Definitely smaller than the other side now. So, okay. Wow. This carabiner is so warm. So warm, okay. So it destroys your rope before it breaks. You couldn't put much more force on that. It's rated to 10 fives. And you would generally be using dynamic ropes when we were using a static, because we didn't want to. Which is more abrasion resistant, by the way. And I can, nope, I can't. I mean, the shape actually is not too bad. Yeah, let's compare it to the other device. It's not too bad. Yeah, it's not much difference. This thing is starting to get pulled out of the back. Oh, yeah. All right, it's supposed to be inside of the plastic. And it's supposed to look symmetrical. Yeah. So maybe let's just try- Carabiners on either side? We'll just put it in like you're repelling with two strands. And then we'll just hold the brake or like lock off the brake hand so it doesn't slip through and see if it breaks the rope again in that orientation before the device fails. It broke over there? Yeah. Whoa. Wow, this is very tight. And I mean, you can't really break a device with a rope. Not unless I just put a soft shackle in there and pulled on it. That's not how it's designed. You can cut a soft shackle. Huh? I think you cut your soft shackle. Yeah, maybe, right? Well, oops, forgot to turn that on. 6,450 pounds of force. Wow, look at this thing. It's so chewed up. And we got a core shot inside of there and it just bunched up. So this wire is very, very bent. So this had it in the memory, 29.4 kilonewtons. So, I mean, you're never going to put that kind of force on it, but the moral of the story is you're not going to break your belay device, this one or another ATC of sorts. So that's good to know. It's good to know that the anchor, what we simulated as our repel anchor would break before anything else in the system. Our belay loop would break before this. Belay loops break around 15 to 19. This device might be one with the rope. Yeah, the rope is no longer through the device. The top of it is just jammed into that knot that we had as a keeper. So leave in the comments below how you think we could test this stuff that would be like in a real life scenario. If you want to see us go down repel devices again. Gregory's also did the same thing. You can see that chart on Slack Snap on hownotohighland.com. So just go in there, hit Control F, hit Gregory. I did a couple of tests that way. So just really, it's good to know that the metal you're connected to isn't going to break, but it does affect your rope and belay devices and everything else. And that's what we like to discover here. Make sure you smash that like button. And we post things like this in small snippets throughout the week on Instagram, Facebook, and TikTok now. So make sure you subscribe and like and follow everything else. Cheers. Did you know this is how you can untie ropes? Yeah, once that's free. Oh. Well, maybe I can just, maybe I can just get a smaller guide mode carabiner. And what is this? The rope smashed that or maybe a carabiner, but the rope was totally surrounding it. So good job, MegaJewel. Now we're done. Look.