Tension slacklines without pulleys - INFINITY gear review

Would you like to see how to set up a slackline without pulleys? Well you finally can, a long slackline, with the Slack Enov Infinity. Watch me play with my new toy on this episode of How Not to High One. Hi, I'm Ryan Jinks and welcome to my gear wall laid out on a tarp because we are going to compare the Infinity, which is really an innovative piece of equipment. And we're going to compare it to the weight of pulleys, the cost, and how much force you can actually generate with this because we love datamometers on this channel. And so even though if you already slackline you just probably want to see me use this, probably skip five minutes in the video because I'm going to show you, for the audience who doesn't know slacklining in general, how to do it A to Z, starting with the tree, over there, and basically how to do this start to finish. We're going to test our pulley system today, our non-pulley system, with three webbings. Parsec from Rad Slacklines is a polyester low stretch 2% stretch at 5 kilonewtons. Feather Pro from Balance Community is 5% stretch at 5 kilonewtons. And Man on the Moon from Rad Slacklines, which is 9 16th tubular webbing inside of one inch tubular webbing. Can't really tell, but you can definitely feel it in there. And that is 12% stretch, so high stretch for bouncy playful stuff. Medium for something you can use in the park and on a highline. If you're going to buy one piece of webbing it's nice when it's in the 5% range. If you are going to set up long highlines or long slacklines, low stretch is nice, so you don't have to tension as much. But that might not be a problem anymore. So this is where I learned how to slackline. This is a 50 meter gap between this tree and that one, which is pretty cool. On this tree I have Tree Pro. Now Tree Pro doesn't keep the sling from squeezing the tree, so if you have soft bark, um this is borderline soft bark, but it's okay. If you have really soft bark, what you do is you have to put sticks or PVC pipes or something periodically underneath. They actually have some neat Tree Pro coming out that kind of has it built in. Just distribute the weight. But Tree Pro is to protect this from rubbing near the edges. So it is important to protect the trees, to protect our access, so we don't get kicked out of parks. Anyways, what I'm doing in this case is I'm girth hitching. I just took this purple span set and went around and put inside that loop, as you can see right here, because I am not going to be able to hold this up on this side. It is ideal if they can just kind of come together. This reduces the strength about 50%, so it takes it from 80 kilonewtons down to 40 on a webbing that breaks at 30. It doesn't matter. So I girth hitched in this case, and there are other ways to skin that cat, which we'll cover over there. I have sew-in loops on my webbing. Always, always get sew-in loops on your webbing. And this is a 50 meter piece, which is fine for this gap. You can get up to 100 meters if you're slacklining anew and about to buy a piece, and that way you don't have to extend it to do a 60 meter gap, for example. But don't buy anything longer than 100 meters. We do segmented highlines now, and honestly, anything longer than 100 meters in the park is pretty sketch. So you could always extend it in the park as well with a soft shackle or a quick link. We'll show you how to do that in all the other episodes I make. Anyways, I use a shackle in this case. Don't use an aluminum carabiner on slacklines in the park. When the wind picks up, it goes and you get a lot of cyclic loading above four and five kilonewtons, right? About five kilonewtons is a little over 1,000 pounds of force. 4.4 kilonewtons is 1,000 pounds of force. And that's generally what you're playing with in the park. That's the range. And when you fall on a highline, that's about what you get when you fall off and shock load the line. So four to six is what you're playing with. And carabiners can handle that, but they can only handle that amount of force so many times before they get fatigue in the aluminum and snap and things go flying. So try to use steel when you're in the park or soft shackles. So this is a soft shackle. We have tons of videos on this. We love using them on this channel. And you can put them directly in a sewn loop and you actually get full strength if you add a little piece of webbing like this. Ideally, you would tape it in place. Right now, I'm doing it for demonstration purposes, but it will stay once I put some force on there and actually gets full strength, which means it breaks in the stitching and not up here where it pinches it. What's nice is if something were to fail, which I don't see that happening here, you don't have metal flying at you. So I'm going to raise this up and we are going to go back to the other side and play with our new tension system. So here on the tension side, I'm going to put this span set. Now these purple span sets are the skinniest round slings or span sets that you basically can buy. And I think they're amazing. The working load limit is one ton or eight kilonewtons. You're not putting more than that on this, even if you're bouncing. So they're super good enough. I think it's a seven to one safety ratio. And Slack Mountain, I believe has one of the best prices that I have found online. They're out of France. And even with shipping, it's very, very affordable to buy these. Nobody really needs the green ones. The blue ones seem to be overkill. I have no problem carrying these up a mountain if I'm going to do some all natural rigging, which is where you wrap this around a rock as your anchor. What's nice about this Tree Pro is I've got these little loops in order to hold it up while I'm working on it. Let's wrap this around. So what we're going to put on here is a line scale from linegrip.com. This thing is awesome. It reads up to 30 kilonewtons, but it's like 80 kilonewtons strong. And it tells us how much force we're going to have on this slack line. If you're going to long line often, it's kind of nice to have just so you know at what tension you learn to like things, you can identify it pretty easily. So in order to not have a connector on here, this is a 3 meter or a 10 foot long span set, which is basically my favorite length. You can always adjust them or add to them with another one. So in this case, what I do is I go through the eye, which is really nice about these is they have a big eye. And you take, you go through that the loop there, and then you pull through that loop. And then it's secured here. You lose about 50% again. Anything you do with ropes, you're going to lose like 50% strength, right? That's you have a safety ratio to work with. Anyways, so that's all set up. And then we will connect our Infinity to this. Just to give you something to compare to if you're new to slack lining, is this is how it's normally done. You have a soft release prebuilt. This is a shackle that's aluminum from Slacktivity called the Kingpin. I really like it because it's lightweight. If you want a good shackle rather than a soft shackle, the steel shackles are pretty heavy. But anyways, this is a web lock. We'll show you how that goes, which you don't need with the Slackline Infinity. It goes in there. The reason you put a soft release in is I can unravel this when I'm done in order to de-tension without having to re-add pulleys or other shenanigans like knives in order to get it down. So then I take my webbing. This is the side I'm going to walk on and it goes down the web lock. And this is what makes everything so different from like a ratchet kit that you would buy on Amazon or a starter kit is web locks, soft releases, pulleys, but you can only do so much with a ratchet. And you can see how I can pull the tail here and this stays tight. And then what you do is you pull this. I don't want to pull it too tight because I'd have to release this. You just pull, pull, pull. And then you add pulley systems to this, which we'll show in other videos. You have to attach pulley somewhere else, maybe down here and use grips and all sorts of stuff. We can eliminate all of that, all the pulleys and even the web lock. If you don't want, if you buy a sewing loop that side, you don't even need to buy a web lock if you're just starting and want to use the infinity as your go-to tensioner. Now the infinity is not light, but it's all you need. So I added the mechanical advantage extender arm on there and we're going to use this luggage scale to weigh this versus all the other pulleys I brought. This is 3.5 pounds, which is less than two kilograms, but I don't know the exact conversion in my head. So how much does the other stuff weigh? Holy crap. Okay. So this is the beefy SMC three inch expensive ass pulleys. It's like 125 bucks, 125 bucks, 50 bucks for the rope. You don't need like a ton of rope. You just reset. If you need more, you need a web lock. Like we have there, you need a line grip. You're pulling something as hard as you are with this. You don't get to use the cheaper, smaller ones and you got to have your multiplier and your teeth and steel carabiners because it's in the park. Just, just measure it, Ryan. It's getting heavy. Okay. 12 and a half pounds. Okay. So that's four, almost four times more for the strong kit. So this, this gives you a lot of kilonewtons on here. So you don't need like four friends helping you pull. So let's we'll just find out how much force we're going to get with all these in another episode, when I compare efficiencies with pulleys, which I may or may not change my shirt and film right after this episode. Okay. Our next one is the slackline slackline brothers pulleys. These are the original pulleys available to slackliners. I bought these in 2005, loaned them to a friend and he gave them back to me last year. I was like, Oh my gosh. So they're pretty much in the museum. Now balance community still sells them. And the benefit to them still is the fact that they have teeth right here in this lever. So you can pull and you can eliminate the break because the break, I forgot to add that in the cost. It's another a hundred bucks. So this is kind of the cheapest pulley system, sort of, except you can't really do mechanical advantage and take advantage of the brake system. And they're not that efficient since it's just a pin inside of a plastic wheel versus a ball bearing pulleys, like the SMC pulleys. These are super good enough for some things, but Oh man, trying to tension tubular webbing in 2005 in this park sucked. Anyways, this is 10 pounds and you still need a grip. If you're not going to hard point it, that means you're going to leave the pulleys in the system. We tried to take the pulleys out of the system. So they're not rattling around when we're trying to slackline. Soft pointing is when you remove them and you still need a web lock. So 10 pounds for this setup. Now this little guy from Rad Slacklines is pretty sexy. If you are going to buy a pulley system, this is the cutest one. And it does give me pretty good mechanical advantage considering it's tiny. But in order to get that mechanical advantage, you got to use a B-A-W, a big ass wheel in order to get that. We'll cover pulleys later because that's not what this episode's about. Anyways, since you do need to have a multiplier in the system, even though you could use a lighter setup, you still need a web lock and you can use a lighter line grip or in this case, a snatch, which is another version of a webbing clamp in order to tighten all of this. So this is a pretty common setup when I actually have been coming to the park for the last year that I've owned this. This is what I literally bring is this right here. So this right here weighs 3.7 pounds. So it weighs, even with a lightweight pulley system, the lightest weight basically you can buy, still weighs more than this guy. And this is everything you need. There is one lighter system. Let's go over that real quick. So this right here is literally the tension system that highliners use. We have this. This is the Rolex from Spyder Slacklines, the co-owners of Slackino. They're one company now. And the Rolex is something you use to slide across the highline. Highlining 101 course is on hownottohighline.com and we have an entire course for free on how to use a highline that's already rigged and we cover all sorts of stuff about how to slide across the highline. But you can also use it to tension your line, which I will show you right now a little bit. Still need a weblock. So this is all you need in order to have the exact same setup the Infinity is. This is pretty light and this will definitely be the lightest. One, it's one pound or a half a kilogram. So let me kind of show you the idea of how this works because this is the most common way you can tension a line. And if you are going to go highlining shortly, and this is to just train for highlining, this is pretty much the setup that you would want to buy. This rear pin allows you to put the soft release built into the weblock. Check out our 102 course on hownottohighline.com on why I don't like that. That's why I have a weblock 4.0, which is a fixed eye on the rear. Anyways, let me show you. Just so you can appreciate the Infinity, we're going to show you the process that we do for this. This goes on there. That's a webbing clamp, a line grip, whatever you want to call it. That goes on the rear end and the tail goes here. And as you pull it, it goes through the weblock up here and tensions. Now we are going to make another episode where you take three more of these guys and you put one over there and one here and then you pull again and you get mechanical advantage. I don't want to tension this anymore because then I would have to soft release it, which I'm trying to save for the next episode I'm going to film. Make sure you like, follow, and subscribe to our channel so you can see the episode that I'm going to film later and post probably three weeks after this one. Now in order to get four kilonewtons, to be fair, you do need four of these and three friends. It's pretty hard to get four kilonewtons by yourself with this setup. We will find out a couple hours when I film that. Efficiencies of pulley systems. Anyways, with all of this, this is two pounds. This is the lightest weight setup that is commonly used and that's two pounds. So that's only a pound and a half more. Let's start playing with it. Okay, so you just, I'm using this selectivity kingpin in order to attach this. Kind of sits nicely against the line scale and done. Before we get into this, why are ratchets from trick lines, the kind you're, the slack line kits you typically buy from Amazon, why are those bad for high lines you ask? Well, it's because the teeth, the way they engage on here, is not fully set. If you look at the teeth on here, this back plate that locks the teeth in place is shaped exactly the same shape as the so there's way more engagement. The other reason this can be used for high lining is because of the anti-slip webbing lock off on the end here. Now, ratchets, you technically can get away with high lining on a ratchet, but there's things you have to know and it's too easy to screw up and if it breaks, the ratchet comes flying at you and you have to mitigate that with other stuff. So, you can break a lot of rules. It's just the general easy to explain rule is don't high line on ratchets plus high lining on two-inch webbing sucks. So, especially if you want to high line, you definitely want to be practicing on one-inch webbing. Notice they don't make any 50 meter long two-inch webbings out there. So, this can be used for high lining. It is rated for 50 kilonewtons. You can take this up to, I mean, they say eight, but the anti-slip and everything is above what you can even put on it. So, even with you whipping and playing tricks and all sorts of stuff, it's safe. They've done lots of testing and we'll go over that in a little bit. Anyways, ideally, it's easier if you stick the end of the webbing in, but I'll show you how to just fold the webbing in half like a web lock and stick it in after I do this. So, that goes in the top there. You pull the loop through. This loop is a little bit thicker, so it just takes a little bit more to get it in. You just push the loop in. Rad slack line loops are padded with some pretty thick webbings, but there we go. Hey, we did it. We got the loop through. So, anyways, that's it. So, then I'm going to pull all the slack through. Okay, now that I've pulled my slack through, it wants to slip, which is how you detension it. So, I turn my load selector kilonewtons on. I'm just going to tighten it all the way down because I want it tight and it's got a spring on there. So, I mean, that says five kilonewtons right there. Once I hit five, it would slip and stay at five. Let's find out how accurate that is. Neato. I'm at 0.6 kilonewtons right now. I think once I ratchet that down, I'm not supposed to be pre-tensioning, but I pre-tensioned to 0.8. Oh, man, that's really nice. That's one. I don't know if I have to really feed it. Wow, that's really nice. I'm almost at two. See how much work it takes to get to two kilonewtons when you're using pulleys? 2.2. Now, I want to do keep an eye on where all this is sitting. Still set at five. 3.5. Four. Now, this is a bowl-shaped park, so I don't need more than four. Of course, we will push the limits here. Otherwise, I'm too high in the middle, especially with this low stretch webbing. Higher stretch webbing? Yeah, we'll see. It's 3.89. When I get off, it would be three kilonewtons because everything kind of settled in, and then all I need to do is just go whack a few more times, and I'm back up to where I want to be. Now, of course, it's very important to lock off your tail with any web lock, but especially this guy, because otherwise, it's just this little wheel holding it. Before I do that, let's see if it slips at five. This is set here at five. It's not slipping yet. Now, you don't really want it to slip, and the wind is making it bounce, so this is what cyclic loading is. This is the stuff that's bad for carabiners. In order to tie the tail off, I pulled out this pin here that has the keeper spring balls on that side, but none on that side, which is interesting. It goes in there like this. The tail goes back inside, and then this loop gets flipped over here. One pin goes in this hole, and one pin goes in that hole, which is pretty straightforward, and then you just tighten it. Let's see here. How do you tighten this? Oh, you just pull it. All right, cool. That's not hard, and that is bomber, because the teeth are engaged. They do start to deform after, um, gosh, what'd they say, like 20 or 30 kilonewtons? That's insane. So, the teeth are bomber. The rubber is good. My load selector is good, and this thing is really neat, and that's the... this is the most creative part, I think. I don't know how much work this takes to build. In theory, you can just take this off, but I'm tempted to leave it on. If I need to readjust something, I will later. Locked off. Very cool. So, let's slackline. So, long lining is scary. Low stretch webbing doesn't stretch, so I was kind of high off the ground. I didn't really want to fall, so you try to not think about falling, so you have a higher risk of falling. Anyways, peak force was 5.62 kilonewtons while I was on it, and it's settled back down to four, and that is super common with this stuff, but I definitely think this would be better at three because of the type of webbing it is. So, let's detension a little bit and see how much force we need in order to keep me just off the ground in the middle, and then swap out the webbing and see how much force we need for the other ones, just because I have a dyno and I'm super curious now. Okay, I'm gonna loosen this a little bit down to two and a half kilonewtons. So, I added the handle back on, clicked it once so I can get this a little bit looser, pull the pin, and in order to release it, I want to have some sort of friction on there. So, I'll do that, and then I just unspin this until it slips. Oh, wow. Wow, just like a soft release. That's pretty cool. What do we got? One and a half. So, what I'm going to do is tighten it back up now. In my device right here, it says five, which has been plenty so far. So, I'm just add this back in, pull that tight, and let's see if 1.79 puts me near the middle. So, I am currently sitting on it, and I am about that high off the ground, and that is super good enough. So, I'd say two kilonewtons would be really nice for this. Little trick to pull it down is throw the span set over the top, because it's that high otherwise, and that's like how high I was walking with it super, super tight. So, it's nice to know 2 kilonewtons does low stretch webbing, and you don't even need that much of a tension system if you have that kind of webbing, but as you'll see with the stretchier stuff, the Infinity is going to get really nice to have. So, a couple neat features about this is you can see that has a rubber, well, it's a rubber sleeve around a metal wheel, and just kind of how the teeth are all designed in there, and how that wheel goes together. You just kind of see how that spring does all the work, and you can just move where those wheels are by screwing it in and out, and you can see how those teeth engage at the proper angle, so it gets a lot of engagement on the teeth. It's a really, really clever design. It takes a lot of work to design and manufacture these to not sell that many. Slackline gear is pretty hard because people who do this love it because, I mean, they spend a lot of work building it, and not, you know, they're only going to sell maybe 500 or 1,000 units. It's not like climbing gear where you sell 100,000 carabiners after you design one. So, yeah, I really appreciate the people that put in the work to create this stuff. So, here's an honest gear review. I still like it, but damn it, I had to cut off the padding off of my loop to get it back out. So, I'm still detensioning, so it comes out pretty easily once, you know, you're done, but the loop is already folded in half, right, which, wow, that was not hard, but with big fat padding, the extra one-inch tubular webbing that goes over the loop was too fat to get past the wheels here, and the spring is too strong to do it. So, there's really, like, nothing I could do. I've been working on this for a while. So, I took off the padding, not the end of the world. I could always Velcro sleeve that if I felt like this abrasion was a risk, but not gonna do that again. I did struggle to put it in. So, if you struggled to put it in, it'll be much harder to get back out. So, instead, I'm going to put it in like this, like a web lock, and see how that goes. Okay, so now I'm gonna try Feather Pro, which is 5% stretch at 5 kilonewtons. It's about twice, a little bit more than twice as much as the other one. This does have padding, but it is a tighter padding. So, we will risk it in this case. Go down. So, it's the equivalent of, like, four webbings. If I'm not careful and paying attention, stuff like this can happen, but that's easy to fix. So, let's fix it. So, Feather Pro has pillowed edges, which means there's a little extra webbing on the edges. It's a little extra material, so it's easier to catch, but you can see here how it's cockeyed again. I think it's because when you have a bow shackle like this, it's cockeyed, uh, the device. So, it's important to keep this thing in line. I'm going to detension this, flip this around, and see if it keeps it more centered. But, uh, good troubleshooting things to know about it, but to detension it and retension it is just not that big of a deal. Okay, I flipped that around, and it looks a lot straighter. So, I figured out what this little clip is for. I think that metal part keeps the tail from getting sucked back into the, up the wheel. That's a 2.7. Everything's still flat and straight. They do have another hole right here that you can probably buy another one of these, and this would go inside of it. The wind makes it jiggle. Anyways, you can get more mechanical advantage when I see a stick. All natural rigging. Never mind. Okay, 4.5. Even the SMC pulleys take a good nine to one mechanical advantage in order to get that much force. So, 5.2. I don't think I've ever had this thing at 5.2 before. Definitely, definitely tying this tail off. Holding it flat. There we go. Taking the tail, bending it back, pulling it tight. There we go. Let's see how this feels. Okay, I don't feel like, I don't feel the weight in the system. I have no problem leaving that embedded in the slack line. It doesn't affect the feel at all. So, let's switch the webbing to the super stretchy man on the moon webbing. So, Florent Berthet told me to put the load strand, which in this case will be this one. I'm going to flip this backwards. So, that's the one I'm walking on. I'm walking on this side. It needs to be against the rubber if I fold it in half. Florent Berthet is from Slack Enov, and he came up with this device. He also came up with the Enov Split, which, if you've been following my channel at all, I love the Enov Split. So, so far so good. Let's see how this goes. So, right now, my loop is within one or two meters of this, and I assume it's going to get sucked in. So, I'm going to set this up first over there a little bit more so I can get this tail further away, because as long as I've got maybe four meters of tail, this should be fine and not have to get this stuck in the system. I'll be back. So, I have pulled this out and put it back in because I had all this extra, and it wasn't bad at all. I just screwed up and put it, I folded it over wrong, stuck it in like, like a web lock orientated correctly, you know, and so I just fixed it. It's really easy to get in. You just put it on there and spin the wheel as you go, and it goes. So, anyways, a neat thing is I can pull, this is the part I'm walking on, this is the part that contacts the rubber, this is the tail, and this is on the outside of the wheel. So, I can pull this in pre-tension and then pull this out in order to preserve not getting this sucked in too much. I don't mind if it does, it's just there's a lot of play right here. So, even if your loop was close, I don't think it's that big of a problem. You just pull your loop away. So, yeah, this is great. So, I'm going to tension this up and start ratcheting on this, and then we'll see how tying off the tail is with this much thick webbing. So, that is set at five kilonewtons. I don't really see a reason going beyond that, and yeah, I'm just going to feed this tail in. Where are we at? 0.2. Wow, it's just barely off the grass right now. This stuff's so slippery. So, I got all this to work with. This is going to eventually get sucked into the top. Wow. Wow, it's only a 1.5. Tubular webbing sucks to tension in the park. This is really fun on high lines, short high lines especially. They're really bouncy and playful, but for a long line, you don't want tubular webbing or stuffed tubular webbing in this case. I'm just out of three and a half. This might actually kick me off the ground in the middle, but I'm going to go to four and a half or a little bit more and settle to four. But yeah, with the SMC pulleys, when I used to rig this on type 18, which is also extremely stretchy, I would touch in the middle and I would reset full length of the rope and pull it for, it took me an hour to set it up. 4.6. That's a lot of stored energy. I'm just going to stop right there because I'm not going to touch in the middle on that. All right. So, right now, that's two pieces of webbing because there's one inside. So, that's four. So, let's see. Let's see if this even fits. Definitely not because if I go like this, like not at all. Okay. So, we're going to have to modify this. You just want a lot of friction. If you were to highlight on this, you'd have to tie the tail off or something, but I could probably do that. You just want the pin on this side and on this side. I think I can do that. Sometimes you just got to get creative. Definitely not recommended by the manufacturer, obviously. This is like the thickest webbing you can buy. Maybe Kill Bill might be thicker, but that's, there we go. Like that honestly is not going to slip, like not in a dangerous way. And then that, I don't know. I'm just going to tie that off just because that's what I'm used to doing as a highliner. Tying stuff off. Cool. And we've settled at 3.8. Let's see if I touch in the middle. So, wow. Let's go see what the dyno says. So, peak force was 4.8. Kept me off the ground, but it settled at 3.2, but it took so much more work to get it to 3.2. And I'm glad I had this to do it, even though it's still a lot of work to tension tubular webbing. So, get a medium stretch webbing. This Feather Pro is awesome. It's why I have so much of it, because I can use it for both highlining and slacklining. This is pretty cheap. Parsec from Ride Slacklines is super easy to rig in the park. I could almost rig it off of this system in the park if it's under 50 meters. But if you're trying to go over a hundred meters or up to it, get a hundred meter piece of this dedicated for the park, so you can get it all nasty and preserve your highline to keep it as fresh and safe as possible. And if you need to repair a section, the tape is just to keep that lip from grabbing things. I sent this in to Jerry Meschewski at Balance Community, and he sewed, he basically cut it and overlapped it, and we added 10 bar tacks in here, which gives it full strength, and I can repair my webbing. So, they can all be the exact same 50 meter sections for segmented highlines. So, now let's find out how much of a pain in the ass this is to undo. Something I've noticed is you can see the angle that this is with the line scale right there. In order to get that on, I have to pull. So, that's something to keep in mind before clicking it all the way back. There. I'm all set. I do that to loosen up this pin. Pin comes out super easy. And do I want to stick in both? Sure. I'll just stick in the whole thing. Go over that. Untie. Okay. Just unscrew it. Wow. I really like the idea of this. So, I think the trick here is I'm going to want to keep that strand managed as well. Not sure how I'm going to do that. Don't want to put my finger in there. Okay. I feel it going. It wants to bunch up right now. So, my difficulty with this right now is the fact it's tubular webbing and wants to scrunch up the sleeve. Makes for a nice slinky. But, uh, yeah. If you don't have tubular webbing, it's generally a breeze. I think I troubleshooted it. I'm never going to stick stuffed tubular webbing in here again. But what I do is I pull that lever down just like a ratchet when you're doing it slowly. Pull that one back a couple notches. Pull that one. You're basically tensioning it in reverse and then it's fine. Eventually, it'll come out. Note to self. Never put stuffed tubular webbing in an infinity. Yeah. That sucked. Anyways, to give that a fair chance, I'm going to use normal webbing. Webbing I would normally rig in the park. Uh, and try the fold over method with this real quick and see how it goes. Wow, it's already easier. 3.7. Done. Works like it's supposed to. So, yay for parsic. Um, let's see what detensioning is like because this was the real pain with the other stuff. You definitely want a diverter as soon as it starts to go. It's going to go fast. See what I mean? You just lift up. Cool. So, it works like it's supposed to if you use the right webbing. Low stretch is great. Medium stretch is okay. And high lining, you don't want to high line on a 2% stretch webbing under 50 meters. It would feel like too much shock load when you whip and could hurt you. So, that's why I have Feather Pro for most of my webbings just because I can use it for both. So, leave in the comments below what you think of this and if you would get one and what kind of problems you think might come from it and if we can use this for high lining. I think if we are far enough away from a segment, this would not be a problem. Otherwise, you'd have to use a line grip and bypass it, but you kind of have to do that if you're pulling it through a web walk anyways. This is amazing. I highly recommend it. I'm not just saying that. I do like to shit on gear occasionally on this channel and this is not something I'm going to shit on because this is revolutionary for long lining. It makes me actually want to come out a long line. I actually don't come out in long line very often because it's a pain in the ass and I'd rather go high lining and well, I like high lining, but I would totally come out now and set this up a lot more often. So, instead of you smashing your fingers in the infinity, make sure you smash those like buttons and don't forget to subscribe because I'm about to film another very interesting video. Cheers.