Mammut Dyneema Climbing Slings gear break test in slow motion - Limiter Knots are NOT redundant!!!

Do you want to see some contact slings from my moot break on this episode of how not to slack sniff? Hi, I'm Ryan Jinx and I'm Bobby and Bobby is going to help me break 1213 contact 8.0 slings from my moot and these slings are some are old and some are new and so we're going to break two of each in each scenario so we're going to break we're going to pull them normal and then we're going to pull them with an overhand knot in the middle and then we're going to do a sliding next with the third set of two new two old so it's a total of 12 break tests and then he has one that has chainsaw bar oil on it and it's fairly new and we're going to see what a contaminated sling does we bought all of these slings this is not sponsored by anybody so we can shit on this product if we want to but if it holds up good we'll say nice things the mbs is 22 kilonewtons it is a dyneema sling it's not going to uh handle the knots very well they actually reduce uh lose a lot of strength when we do that but if you haven't been to our slack snap episodes then this is our slack snap machine how this thing works is normally we have this 20 to 1 pulley system uh pull on it but that's kind of a bitch to pull back and forth as you'll see in one of our previous slack snap episodes where we broke a bunch of stuff get that out of there um and this is the other fixed side of those pulleys and our cosco winch but instead we actually had bolt busters and slack snap make a baby together this is our small bolt buster hydraulics this is our big one this is the one that does all the magic on our bolt busters shear tests and what we did is just kind of connect it all together and anchor it to the bar just like we do in uh the outdoors when we're testing bolts in sandstone and granite and concrete in all of our tests we have a whoopee sling here to adjust for to get it as tight as we can right before we start to pull it in since we only have a two foot stroke these are not stretchy samples so this is a perfect time to use this and it's going to be a lot easier for bobby as he resets this stuff as i enter in all the data so this is one of my used slings you can see kind of how fuzzy it is it's a good angle of the condition of it i still use these i still have a couple old ones that i'm not retiring uh unless this test doesn't go well so we're gonna turn on our slow motion we do have this catcher right here um so when things go out it stops the carabiners from flying um go for it sick all right our rope catches our carabiner nothing goes really flying we don't have giant pulleys flying across the table that's really nice um yep it broke it smells like broken dyneema and dirt it did not break where the stitches are and what is our number holy shit all right all right it's a few years old 15.9 kilonewtons or 3550 pounds of force hey if you want to help support this project and keep it independent please go to brewjuno.com i started a coffee business with my friends and they are creating instant coffee that tastes really really good so it's really convenient go to brewjuno.com and order some coffee or if you want to just donate a few bucks to paypal or support us per episode on patreon.com it really really helps as we drop money on every episode in order to keep these episodes more and more entertaining all the time we're trying to make this a little bit more climbing and highline friendly even though it's a highline focused channel so if you can help us out that'd be awesome let's get to the next test so this is our second test of our seven year old sling pulled normally go for it whoo dusty that is busted at oh we got a little bit higher 18.6 kilonewtons or 4150 pounds of force so our third test is a brand new sling pulled normally and you can just see how much shinier this thing is slow-mo is on go for it bobby stop keep going all right it's so sad look how curly cute this is oh that's interesting huh and then so sad to break good gear uh okay yep yep damima what do you what do you expect oh wow that's a difference between new and old 27.8 kilonewtons or 6050 pounds here is our fourth test pulled in normal our second new one go for it 787 looks like this the rest of it looks like it's just been pulled really aggressively but oh oh wow it's weird how it's like a secondary spot gets the weave gets jacked up 27 kilonewtons even 5800 pounds so we just finished pulling too old and too new in a normal way and we got 40 percent less uh than in the old ones than we did the new ones we had about about 10 kilonewtons less and a consistent 27 kilonewtons in the new one so that's pretty good considering mbs is 22 and most soft goods barely pass mbs so um before we go on if you want to learn highlining since this channel is all over the place we do actually like highlining and not just focus on climbing gear go to hownottohighline.com and do our highline university program so it teaches you a to z how to highline so you can check that out if you're interested in that or if you're interested in climbing slings keep watching we are going to test overhand knots smack dab in the middle so tie us an overhand knot bobby we're going to try to do this nice and dressed so it's like best case scenario but dyneema does not like overhand knots and it really likes to roll around when you're tying it yes but we love testing things we're not supposed to do so now we're going to pull it in the same way as we did before but now it has a knot in the middle check it out oh my gosh it broke in the knot no way this is an old climbing sling we got 15 to 18 last time whoa so half interesting 8.4 kilonewtons or 1850 pounds might not whip on oh that's terrifying okay it broke in the knot consistently at 8.55 or 1900 pounds of force wow oh my gosh it broke in the knot what are the chances whoa we got less than half with the new one 11.3 we were guessing it what were we guessing it was going to be 13 13 yeah it's in the ballpark and 2350 pounds of course oh my gosh oh cool this one broke half and then pulled the weave apart for the rest of it oh wow this uh this was about to break on this other side as well this really got mangled and only at 9.7 that's one third yeah what you lose you lose 60 over 60 percent strength with a knot in it yikes 2050 pounds you lose so much force when you tie a knot in a dyneema sling i i mean i knew it was like half but i didn't realize it was less than half so just really consider that before you tie any knots in your slings and also consider that you might want to retire your old slings these are only seven years old and they look super good enough but it depends what you're using them for if you really are like value your life it might be worth getting some new slings we're not trying to test standardization on slack snap we're not trying to um be too sciency with this stuff this is mostly about entertainment and mostly just us curious and we like to make videos about it so um just so you understand the purpose of slack snap it's just for us to test all sorts of things and in all sorts of scenarios so now we're going to transition into a sliding x just like we uh like i use all the time when i'm doing projects and give us give us a sliding x example so we're going to put it on our shackle uh kind of a bigger one and then we're going to basically do that now this this guy is a little fuzzy there um but i don't know how much more force do you think we're going to get and it's not double it might be double why don't we find out so you can see our configuration is around the pin of this big shackle we have a rounded edge right here i'm not worried about that compromising it and we have padding where the threads are here i don't know if it shifted or moved or uh that looks fine where the threads were it broke like it breaks it's over here what did we get bobby this thing jumped damn 36.75 on the old sling and 8 250 pounds now one thing is this is not what is it not redundant redundant and so one of these legs were to be cut the whole sling fail that is uh true but it's also very strong so what do you recommend you tie a knot in it oh there's no perfect solution bummer welcome to real life we got some gnarly shit right here hanging by a thread and then the other side super fluffy our fluffy number is 32.15 kilonewtons 7 150 pounds here is our new sling in a sliding x what do you what do you think we're gonna get bobby uh 45 50 45 50 i think we're gonna get between 50 and 55 go for it oh other way how it goes in oh my god it's way down there sick it broke two different places crazy okay and then there's that stuff what do we get what do we get oh you were right 48.80 or 10 950 pounds of force here is our second new one in a sliding x in contact with the carabiner and so we it didn't break in two pieces but that could have easily broken typical typical breakage a little bit less than last time 44.25 or 9 800 pounds of force so on our sliding necks we've got 36 32 for the old slings and 48 and 44 for the new slings our old slings got double but our new slings did not quite get double um and remember it's not redundant but you do obviously get more strength and that was super interesting now we're gonna do some bonus breaks so the gear that i replaced this with i just went in my gear room and got it and we're gonna break four more slings because what's another 40 bucks right if you want to see certain things broken put it in the comments below your paypal donation because that definitely motivates us to spend 150 dollars in an evening break testing all my poor gear anyways um we're gonna do the sliding x with the limiting knots so it is redundant ish and uh we're curious if the loss we get in the knots is counteracted by the fact it's doubled up and our curiosity got the best of us so here's four more bonus tests too new too old so we put this on a smaller shackle since we got less distance out of our sling here and we have a knot on either side reducing the length that it would extend out and also making it redundant isolating this side from this side hold on we got 17.4 kilonewtons keep going see if we it broke in that knot only one break made it break yeah yeah huh and only at 17.4 kilonewtons now this is the old sling okay so it broke at the knot but both sides this knot cut that the other part of the knot oh gosh okay this is my old sling basically we're getting the strength of it being pulled normal it is cancel each other out 35 50 798 is the new sling with the limited sliding x go for it it's redundant to abrasion on one part granted 21.4 it's lower than the mbs we were getting 27 on the new ones but not much lower 4,700 pounds of force i don't know it's six-ish six and a half kilonewtons lower um but it's rated for 22 it is rated for 22 so you almost get mbs with the knots when you do the sliding x the limiting sliding x and normally do this with a double length sling so it's a lot easier to work with since he's he doesn't have a lot of sling there to work with so you still put the twist in it right so in theory you can still go back and forth but i feel all the force being put on just this part and none of this part so in theory it does back up if your anchor blows and it does back up if up here you get abrasion or something um that will hold so it's redundant from those it's not redundant from uh your forces being too high but keep in mind that your climbing rope will break around 14 kilonewtons yeah so and this is used as a top rope anchor where you're not going to see more than two or three kilonewtons yeah so it is super saving up we're not getting revolutionary information here but it is shocking us we got we achieved redundancy all right so it only broke here and we got 19.35 or 4200 pounds of force that's pretty cool that's kind of what i was hoping to see there first time what'd you discover so i just adjusted this slightly and this came right through the knot okay so it wasn't as redundant as we thought for sample 799 so the limited sliding x is interesting the fact that the old slings got 17 and 15 which is basically what we get pulling them normal the knot cancels out the doubling effect but the new slings we were getting six or seven kilonewtons less uh on each test with 21 and 19 kilonewtons it's still pretty strong it's stronger than your rope it's as almost as strong as your carabiners uh so it's super safe enough it's just interesting that it's not as redundant from forces as we thought it is redundant from other stuff but yeah it's just a lot different than we thought so now come over for our next test it's super interesting so we're testing a sling you recently bought in this last year yeah it may have been up one or two climbs with me and it got set underneath the chainsaw that leaked chainsaw bar oil and we can see that it's whoa it's under tension right now you can see you can see the oil's being squeezed out yeah it like soaked it that's yeah i'm all oily now all right so cool uh we'll find out how dyneema handles uh oil on this brake test go for it okay so it did not break where the oil was yeah interesting i mean if you've got oil all over your climbing gear you probably should retire it but um 23.9 is not bad considering this is not brand new but it is over the mbs in 5100 pounds of something interesting we discovered when we had new versus old is the length difference as you can see here is about that much from the old one being shorter and this longer one being newer i don't know if they manufacture them different i don't know if it shrinks over time but these tests were uh super fun i think it was worth doing if you want us to test other climbing stuff we are super interested it does help if you donate on paypal or it also helps a lot if you are on patreon.com donating one dollar per episode that little bit helps over the long term and remember the other way you can help is to go to brewjuno.com and try out some of our instant coffee now these slings are pretty bummer but they do break therefore you shouldn't go climbing hey thanks for watching but don't be an idiot and try highlining without going with somebody who knows what they're doing the first time you go out we actually have available now the highline university international which is a to z everything you need to know before you go highlining this teaches you how to use a highline that's already rigged so let's talk about some leash management that's the h0 course which is out right now and available at hownottohighline.com it's over 100 videos with quizzes pdfs illustrations and it comes with homework and teachers that you submit it to it's a very interactive online school so you get to learn in person online