Are Dewalt Powers SD6 Bolts Safe for climbing? Spec sheet says 12kn in shear???

I think that shirt's funny. We are going to test the Dewalt Power Stud SD6 in this episode. We'll explain why we're testing such a random bolt after the intro. Hi, I'm Bobby and I don't think that shirt's nearly as funny as Ryan does. So this is a Dewalt Power Stud SD6. It was originally manufactured and designed and engineered by Powers, hence the power in there. I use a lot of the original Power Stud, not SD6, and you can see us testing those in another video, maybe not released yet, but if it is released, it will be here. So the difference is this is 316, that's 304. This has a different sleeve here, and this cone has like a knurling on it, and the other one is just smooth. We have gotten lots of requests to test this bolt. I think two people have donated these bolts. Greg Barnes at the ASCA donated a few, and Matt Markle also donated some. You can get them fairly cheap. People are worried about them because the numbers on the Dewalt spec sheet don't look very good in shear. So we're going to test them in shear and then in tension. To test them, we're using Rommer hangers rated to 27 kilonewtons in the direction that we're, well, 27 in shear, 26 in tension, and I believe these are 316 hangers. Something I notice about these is they're going in a little bit easier than the Dewalt Power Stud that I normally use. What's going on here? Rock just on the top is spalling, but inside was super good enough. All of our tests here have been in super hard rock, so I'm pretty happy with that. That is a funny shape. So we just did some tests with the original Power Stud, not the SC6 version, and same rock placements inches away from each other did not come out of the rock. Instead, they broke in the 30 plus kilonewton range. So this is weaker, but this is still perfect. I mean, in the worst case scenario, 24, 25 kilonewtons, perfectly fine. Let's see what the rest do. So we had some rock failure here, which should make for some exciting slow-mos. That looks really similar to the other one we just pulled out. What did we get, Mike? 13.72, so that's low. Yeah, that would not whip on that. My guess is like 12 again. All right, the rock is failing up here. I don't know if that is a result from what we're doing, but we did not have any of those problems on other episodes. So these are the Power Stud without the SD6 that all broke off in the rock. Yeah, and these are the SD6 plus. These ones here. Wow, you can really see how cratered that is. So, I mean, we might be getting too close to other holes, but these were close to other holes as well. To film a batch of episodes and set all this up, it's kind of hard to film in an order. So let us take you to yesterday where we tested them in sheer. The bolt snapped and the hanger is still good. Barely still good. I use the word loosely. Wood whip. Guess, Bobby. Hold on. 35. That's not right. Keep guessing. 40. A little bit more. 45. 41. Wow. The bolt did not fail and that hanger is warm. I am impressed. Stop. Again, it broke in the rock. So a lot of people's concerns about these, I guess, were based on the spec sheet from DeWalt that they were not super good enough. But in sheer, we discovered that they were quite impressive. Tension? I don't know. Could have been the rock. The other DeWalt power studs broke. I don't know if moving up a couple inches on this rock made that much of a difference based on the rock, but the bolt did come out. It could have been the knurl at the bottom not grabbing good enough, which is also another concern people have had. Not grabbed good enough. It's still there, isn't it? Well, it came out of the rock. It didn't keep it from coming out of the rock. Well, it kept this from sliding off. So Bobby and I can't decide whether or not this knurl is good or bad. Put in the comments below what you think. We believe the European standard is 25 kilonewtons this way and 20 kilonewtons in tension for a climbing bolt. And these aren't really complying with the tension, but they were complying in the sheer. So I don't think anyone's gonna die if these are used, and I don't know if Bobby is gonna switch. Let's ask him. The people want to know, Bobby, would you whip? I would not whip if this was placed in a roof. Fair enough. I think I'm gonna keep using the bolts that I've been using. So these Rommer hangers all performed quite a bit above MBS. Every time we took them above MBS, we couldn't get them to break. Good work, Rommer. If you guys want a wood whip shirt, a Super Good Enough hat shirt, or a How Not to Highline shirt, or a shirt that you guys want to create, we can put that vector on slackline.com. You can print your own shirts, or you can go to Happa Design, which is a link on slackline.com, where you can buy some shirts. Donations is what keeps this channel going. Not buying shirts, FYI. And if you've made it all the way to the end of this video, you earned yourself a free subscription to this channel. All you have to do is click that red subscribe button to redeem your prize. Come on, it changes my life, doesn't cost you anything. Come on, push the subscribe button, smash the like button, and I'll see you guys next time. Thanks for watching. What do you got there, Bobby? This is a Powers lock bolt sent to us by Greg Barnes. Basically, it's a sleeve bolt around a threaded rod, and then it has a little wedge at the bottom. We pulled some very similar bolts out at Lost Arrow Spire. So basically, this is a 3-eighths bolt surrounded by a half-inch sleeve. Yep, so it goes in a half-inch hole, but what you're pulling on with the hanger is 3-eighths. So it's very interesting to compare this to our other 3-eighths bolts in this episode. I've always wondered about this, about half-inch bolts that have these giant sleeves that the stud is only 3-eighths.