Hey guys, it's Billie and today I'm going to show you how you can sew a haneri on your nagajyuppan.
A common problem when you get a new nagajyuppan, there is not the white extra color in it.
Okay, it has to be white, but there is an extra color in it, so it's not able to wear it with your kimono.
So you have to sew a haneri on it.
So I got a bunch of haneri, five pieces in one set.
These are super old, so I got this in a recycle store, super cheap for like 1000 yen, which is 10 dollars or 10 euros.
And because it's real silk, you need 100% silk yarn.
It's not a must, but it's better when you sew with it.
And I also got needles for kimono sewing.
You can see there is a kimono eyelet, so it's just for kimono sewing.
Okay, let's get started.
Iron the haneri first.
Fold the edge of the haneri for about 4 cm and iron it.
This will help you to sew this part later.
Do the same on the other side.
Sew these parts easily together.
I always make stitches with 1 cm on top, a few mm inside, 1 cm on top, a few mm inside.
This is the inside of the haneri.
So this stitch is very important because it just shows a millimeter or a few millimeters on the real top of the haneri.
Now you fold the long edge of the haneri for about 1 cm upwards and iron it.
This is by the way still only the inside.
Lay the middle of the nagajuban in front of you and my tip is to pin the nagajuban in place.
Now you have to find the middle of the haneri.
When it's a new haneri, you can use the fold in the center and adjust this fold to the senui, the center back seam of the nagajuban.
Start always in the middle of the collar.
Pin it in place.
And then you pin left and right next to your first pin.
After that you pin down the right side and then the left side.
Sew the corner on the nagajuban.
Now you make long and rough stitches until you reach the katayama and the length of the stitches can be from 4 to 5 cm.
You can see I have a long stitch on the top and just a few mm inside and then again a long stitch on the top.
So now we reached the sleeves, the sode.
And this means we also reached the katayama.
And this is the place where we switch stitches.
This stitch shows on top just like a little dot.
So just a few mm, then you have 1 or 2 cm inside, then again just a little dot on the top.
And that's how you go on until you reach the next katayama.
When you reached again the next katayama you switch stitches back to the first stitch.
So back to long and rough stitches.
Sew the corner again on the nagajuban.
And then we're done for the first side.
This is where we iron once again.
Now we start with the inside of the nagajuban.
So you fold the haneri around the corner and then you fold the left over inside.
I always try to iron it a little because this makes it easier to pin everything in place.
You can see again I'm starting in the center.
And then I iron and pin my way down on the left and on the right side.
And then you sew again exactly the same way I showed you before.
Last but not least, ironing.
And never forget to test with your irishin once.
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See you next time. Bye!