Bolt Buster - 10mm solid leg x 100mm climbing and highline bolt break test

Would you like to see a solid leg 10 millimeter by 100 millimeter bolt pulled in sheer with the Hilti V3 500 glue in our concrete tests? Check it out on this episode of How Not to Highline. Hi I'm Ryan Jinks and welcome to BoltBusters where we break anything and everything related to climbing bolts just because we're curious. And today we have the solid leg bolt from BoltProducts.com. Mini glue in bolts are a single rod bent into a shape that has no welds in it or is forged and has no welds in it. However the solid leg bolt does have a weld in it but that doesn't mean it's a bad bolt. What I do like about solid leg bolts is the radius of the eye is big enough that your rope or whatever you're connecting into it is larger and so it gives uh the bend radius is nicer for your ropes. And so we're getting higher strengths with the materials we mix with the bolts because it's not just the bolt as a standalone thing it's how it interacts with the rock how it interacts with the glue and how your rope connects to it. Because if your shit's breaking because your bolt's too thin even if your bolt's strong what good is that? So I really like these things. These are about five-ish euro and they come in 304 stainless steel and 316 stainless steel. I don't know why there's 304 stainless steel when the other one's about 20 cents euro more. It makes sense to have only one product that's really really good. Now if you are in Thailand and limestone near the ocean or something like that if you have corrosion as a risk please use titanium bolts. Even 316 stainless especially with a weld cannot hold up against stress crack corrosion and other corrosion issues. But 316 stainless is amazing for so many areas that you do bolt. Please never use zinc plated shit. It's just a thin coating of zinc on top of a steel bolt that will after the zinc is all corroded away the steel underneath will start to corrode and then they end up having to be replaced five ten years down the road depending where they're at. These will last possibly longer than you will. So we put these in our concrete driveway that we used for testing and we used Hilti V3500 glue which is an amazing epoxy other than the fact that it's really ******* red. And it is four months expired the ones that we use because we do want to test expired glue versus not expired. And as long as our glue is performing it is cheaper for us to do so. These bolts do not need notching. If you use the fix hardwares glue and bolts this part needs notching and so that way the rock sits right about there. That is a nice thing about these bolts because notching does take a little bit extra work. However the weld is exposed to the elements. Not that that's technically an issue but that's a fact. These are rated for 40 kilonewtons and when we put them in our first test broke at 43.8 kilonewtons and it was interesting that the bolt did not pull out of the glue like our previous tests with the fix hardware glue and bolts. The actual shape of this bolt the actual notches in here grab onto the glue good enough that it doesn't separate from the glue. Even though all this metal is all quite shiny the shape of the bolt is what lets the glue grab it. Even if you uh some people say to maybe sand it to give it some adhesion uh it's the shape of the bolt that is going to give it something to grab. Anyways it broke right below the level surface of the concrete. Our next test was interesting because the weld broke and created a really neat spark which we saw because it was pretty dark and that broke at 51.14 kilonewtons and then after the weld broke it basically straightened out until the carabiner released from it. And the most interesting break test we had was the last one where the bolt broke the same as the first one. It broke right below the surface of the concrete the weld did not break but there was so much force in it that the carabiner punctured a hole in our plywood. And you can see the other spots where it has been smashing into our plywood barrier so it doesn't hit potentially hit the house we're near uh any of us or the dynamometer that is attached to the hydraulic cylinder. It is nice to have a catcher maybe we should use something softer to dampen the catch but it did punch a hole through half inch plywood and that is pretty dangerous if things are breaking. However I don't think we're able to put on 40 or 50 kilonewtons on any of these bolts uh unless you're slap snapping or doing stupid myth buster experiments like we do here at How Not to Highline. Even though these are rated for 40 kilonewtons we've got 43 kilonewtons on our first one 51 on our second and 53 for our last one. So I'm pretty happy with the strength to their stated strength on their website. Uh it is quite a big jump between 43 and 53 um but yeah it's still higher than the MBS so I'm pretty happy with that it's a pretty strong bolt the radius is good for five ish euro it is a good uh product it's a good price and I like how it doesn't separate from the glue because the shape of the rod is super good enough. Now we do advocate not to bolt if you don't have to please rig all natural or use trad gear if possible but if you do need to bolt you can go to the bolting bible learn everything you need to to learn how to install in gluons and mechanical bolts and this winter we're going to revamp the bolting bible with all the information we're gathering plus how to remove bolts and replace them because we want everything there is to know about bolts on one place and so if you have information that uh could help us make that more accurate please let us know because we take everyone's information and basically organize it on there it is a free ebook it's a free resource community because we want to see the best bolts placed around the world so we don't have to keep replacing them every few years now we are posting every week about bolt busters so we can keep all this complex information into bite-sized pieces so make sure you like follow and subscribe to us on facebook youtube and instagram because we are posting stuff all the time cheers hey thanks for watching but don't be an idiot and try highlining without going with somebody who knows what they're doing the first time you go out we actually have available now the highline university international which is a to z everything you need to know before you go highlining this teaches you how to use a highline that's already rigged so let's talk about some leash management that's the h0 course which is out right now and available at how not to highline.com it's over 100 videos with quizzes pdfs illustrations and it comes with homework and teachers that you submit it to it's a very interactive online school so you get to learn in person online