Fixing The Problem That Ford REFUSED To Solve *Ford Focus DCT Clutch Replacement*

On today's episode of Watch Jericho, we are back with the 2015 Ford Focus with the PowerShift dual clutch that Ford refused to fix. So today, I got to fix what Ford couldn't. What is going on, guys? I am Watch Jericho. And like I said, we are here with this 2015 Ford Focus, and it has the PowerShift dual clutch in it. And I took it to Ford, tried to get them to cover this with their extended PowerShift warranty that they put on these cars because the transmissions fail all the time. It's literally the reason they added all the extra warranty to it. And they said no, and I called customer care, and they still said no. I made a whole video about this. You can probably click on it up there, down here, wherever it's at if you want to see more about that. But instead of just throwing the car away, we're going to fix the car, which is something that I didn't really want to have to do, obviously, because it should have been totally taken care of for free. But we're going to do it ourselves, and we're going to at least get started on it today. So what we have here for you today is a pile of parts. This is the clutch that everybody likes using for this thing. Apparently, this is the factory clutch, the Luck Repset 2C. And you can see that it includes new throwout bearings and all that good stuff. And of course, the dual clutch itself, it's this big, gigantic unit that weighs quite a bit. And over here in the lever rack, we actually, I went ahead and got the toolkit for this install. I know that there are hacky ways to do this with just pry bars and stuff like this. And of course, it seems like it would work just fine. I don't think it would be a problem getting it done with pry bars and wrenches to lift the clutch out. But this is the actual toolkit, which we bought because there is one tool that you do need for this job, and that is the tool to reset the actual clutch actuators, the electric motors. There's a tool that resets those, and it's in that box too. There's a bunch of different ways to get this job done. You can probably get all of it done without actually having any special tools, but it's probably a lot easier with the proper tools and it just makes sure that you get it done the first time, which is what I wanna do with this. So let's get this car on the lift and see what it's gonna take to get the transmission out. It shouldn't be too hard, I assume, normal front-wheel drive stuff. Pull the wheels, pull the CVs out, you know, probably pop the bottom of the knuckles loose, something like that, and drop a transmission out. So let's get to it. If there's one thing I have to give Ford credit for on this, it's the fact that it creeps very well for being a dual-clutch. Also, when I started it up, it said it needs an oil change, so I guess while we're in here, clutch job, oil change, just take care of everything, get it all cleaned up and reset so there's no more messages on the dash, and this 2015 Focus should be back on the road after we do, you know, a day of work. That's probably all it's gonna need. We've got the lift all set up, and now it's time to get everything out of the top of this, I would assume. So I think getting everything out of the top is going to be the first thing we need to do. The transmission, obviously, is right there. You can actually see right there, there's four green screws. Those are part of the actuator for the clutches, one of the clutch actuators there. All of this junk probably needs to be out of the way, which includes the battery box, the air box, and, you know, anything else that's preventing me from getting easy access to the transmission underneath, because I'm sure there's a couple top bolts that we need to get loose. So, I'm just gonna go ahead and start pulling everything apart, setting it aside, and we'll see how quickly we can empty out this engine bay. I don't know if you guys noticed, but we also went back to the Osmo Pocket 3 for today's video on a trial basis, and we are actually using the hidden wireless lapel mics now. So let me know what you think. I don't... I think the colors aren't as vivid. The Sony does a better job. This is in its stock, out-of-the-box setup. I shouldn't have to change anything. I will probably, if I can, find the vivid color profile and turn it to that, because the color's, like, a little bit muted compared to the Sony. The Sony's just so much better with video. But the Osmo is, you know, I'm moving my arm all over the place right now. It's rock steady. The Osmo is. So, we've got quite a few parts out of this thing. Flip this thing around here. You can see battery, air box, battery box, battery hold down, all that stuff. And here in the engine bay, what a marvel of packaging. Check out that ABS pump. It may not be easy to service that, but it is a marvel of packaging. It's all really well laid out. It's funny, you can see all the CAN wires are exposed there. It's those twisted wires down in that harness right there. We've got the vacuum booster and the brake master right there beside the ABS pump. So, short little lines. This is all plastic. The core support. I mean, it's cheap and it's so well done. This is the engineering you really have to appreciate. A cheap commuter car that works really, really well. And that looks like electric power steering down there. I don't know if you guys can see it. A lot of really epic design goes into this thing. So, now we can see the TCM. It's right there. There's that clutch actuator. We're much, much closer to the transmission here than we were when we started. And I'm just going to figure out what needs to come out next. Not too much from the top, I assume. I think at the top, we're probably disconnected for the most part. And we could just start pulling these connectors. So this one here is like, pop up the lock and then wiggle and squeeze. I'm going to need a screwdriver back there, that's for sure. Oh, this is the vent. This is the breather hose right here. Hopefully, you can see that. This connector here is that clutch actuator. Pull this lock out. There we go, we got it down. And then it'll be like a squeeze and pull situation. And as you pull, it's a cam lock, so it should come off. So as I wiggle down, it's disconnecting more and more and more until it's off. The shit is off now. All right. So a bunch of connectors like that. None of this looks like it's any big deal. Just keep pulling all the connectors off the transmission. You can leave the engine alone for the most part. And then we can head underneath and finish it up. Oh, hey, there's a shifter right there. It looks like that's one of those rubber bushing things where you just pry out. Let's find out. There we go. One hard push and the shifter cable is disconnected, so that was pretty easy too. We've been making some progress in here. If you can look down inside there, you can see the upper mount. There's a big piece of sheet metal that covers up the transmission mount. That's out of there now. All the plastic's out of here. Basically, everything is unhooked except for the starter. So I'm going to lift it up now and get the starter done. And after the starter's done, we should be able to get the bolts out of the actual clutch. That'll give us some access to that. And I need to pull all the under trays and stuff like that as well just to give me access to everything else. Then we'll bust the ball joints loose, hopefully get the CVs out. And I think the transmission's about ready to come out. This is not a crazy job, especially with a lift. It's kind of cheating, I know. But even without a lift, you could do this if you get the car a foot and a half in the air, two foot in the air, whatever, enough distance in the air to clear the entire transmission. Because if you don't, then you have to lift the car more to get it out. It's always a nightmare. I've had to do that many times where you get the transmission out, then it's stuck, and then you have to jack the car up even farther just to get it out of the tunnel or the front end, whatever you're working on. So time to lift this thing up. Shifter cable's unhooked. All the electronics are unhooked. Basically, every bolt's out that I think we need from the top. So like I said, let's get this thing up in the air and keep pulling bolts out. I haven't pulled any bellhousing bolts or any clutch bolts, obviously, yet. There's two tins that hold the shifter cable on. After you pop the shifter cable off, set it to the side, pull that top TCM connector. It was super easy. I've heard it gets stuck on some cars. It doesn't get stuck on this one because it's really well taken care of. Just keep going. Just keep taking off connectors that are transmission-related. Underneath the focus, we've got quite a bit of work to do here. We need to pull this tray off. And I would say, oh, this is the subframe, isn't it? You don't have to pull any of that. OK, so we're going to pull this tray off of here. Looks like you need a Torx T25, 30, somewhere in that range for that. Either way, Torx. We'll pull the wheels. We'll get that ball joint loosened up, and then we'll just tap those out of there. Look at that, all stock. Everything under here, totally original. But then again, it's a, what is it, 50, 60,000 mile car, whatever I said it was in the previous video. It's very low miles, and it's just pretty nice. A bushing shot. That happens. Things wear out. This bushing shot. I mean, they're probably OK, but you can see the cracking in there. Cracking doesn't look good. As all of you Ford techs just saw, I got slowed down quite a bit on the wheels because, of course, the lug nuts had swollen. All the lug nuts on this were trash, so of course, I'll need 10 more lug nuts when we're putting it back together. The Ford caps, if you've ever worked on them, they swell, and you end up banging the socket on with a sledgehammer, and then luckily, the way to do it is to not unscrew it all the way and then work the socket back off. That's what I had to do. Apparently, there is a socket for that. It's called a 19.5 millimeter that was designed specifically for taking off these Ford lug nuts and then throwing them in the trash. So I guess that's a real thing. I've never seen it, but apparently, it exists just for the swollen Ford lug nuts. Anyway, let's hop underneath this thing, show you guys where we're at here. I've got the ball joints separated from the knuckle. The CVs are out. They're just kind of chilling right now, but they are out on both sides. You take off the two nuts that hold this carrier bearing for that CV off, and of course, this knuckle is out too. And the starter is about to come out, but there's one plastic cover I'm having trouble with up there. Right on the end of the solenoid, there's a plastic cover. I know it's tough to see, but that thing is just killing me. Anyway, I'll get the starter out here in just a moment. All the connectors that we needed, I think, are unplugged. A lot of them actually stay because the transmission harness goes with the transmission. Who would have guessed? Anyway, I think we're basically ready to start pulling out bell housing bolts. One there, one there, one there, one there. Two or three on top, and these two transmission mounts, and out she comes. It actually looks like it's going to be very easy to get this out. Now, I thought I was going to have this entire job done today, but I forgot that I told my dad we'd go over to his shop and make a video on something completely unrelated. So I'm going to head over there now, and we're going to quit this for the night and pick it back up tomorrow, I guess. And we're back in the middle of this epic snowstorm. Already this morning, I rolled out of bed. A friend called, and he was like, hey, my diesel is at O'Reilly's. It's dead. The engine keeps dying. I don't know what's going on. So I changed the alternator just now, and it's still not working. So now I'm beside your house, and the truck's broken. So I went over there. We did some troubleshooting. I found out the alternator wasn't hooked up correctly. Not his fault. It wasn't hooked up before, and he just did what was done before. So we got all that straightened out. We got his diesel back on the road, and then I went and cleared all the driveways, and now here we are having a very, very white Christmas. The snow is just fogging down and has been for hours. But in the shop here, we have heat, so there's nothing to worry about. What we're going to do today is finish getting this transmission out of this car. We don't have too much further to go, bellhousing bolts and the transmission mounts and the starter, and, of course, the bolts going into the clutch there. So it shouldn't take too long. I'm going to start with the starter, because that's where we ended up a little bit stuck last night. And after that, I think we're home free. So let's jump right into this. The starter on this is kind of interesting. There's a plastic block that keeps the battery power and the actual trigger wire to the coil on the starter. It keeps them like a line. So you have to get them off at the same time or it doesn't come off. But you can see now the starter is laying right there on the floor. All the bolts are back in it so we can keep track of everything. And all the bolts are out of the engine and transmission. So you can see we've got a little bit of separation right there. And that's basically it. So the only thing still holding the transmission in that mount and the top mount. So I'm going to pull the transmission jack under here, get some air going, and we're ready to strap that thing on and drop it out of the car. Should be pretty easy from here. So let's get to it. It's out. Finally, that is a fight, a fight for your life. Once you get everything loose, you really should just remove the driver's side CV axle. You don't need to mess with the passenger one at all. It clears that just fine. but this one it bound up on it and that caused me way more problems because I had to try to lift the transmission and Get the CV back out. It was a nightmare, but I got it out of there Obviously the transmission did finally come right on out make sure the engine's supported as well Don't leave it hanging by one motor mount there. So we've got a screw jack holding the engine up and Now we can get this transmission on the ground. I hope I don't know how I'm gonna do that by myself But it's time to change the clutch. So let's get to it We've got parts and this seems like a pretty fun job I will say we also bought the toolkit just for this and I tried to put the plugs in the CV holes to keep all the fluid from leaking out because you're not supposed to have to drain it down if you have the correct tools the Dust covers that's what they call them. They didn't fit at all. So we did end up losing a half a quart of fluid I don't know. Maybe a cop. There's a spot that's big on the ground. Nothing special there But we lost a little bit of DCT fluid and we'll have to replace that Now you've got your transmission out and it's time to do a little bit of work on it the first thing we're gonna do here is mark our Clutch actuators, so we know where it's gonna go and there's not a great place to put the marks like I wanted So we'll do this one and Down here. We've got numero dos got that right where we want it I think I've got my eTorx for this right over here e10. Oh No, this is more of an e8. Let me grab that socket. Is it an e8? It sure is So we've got our cordless ratchet to help get these out quickly All right. Here's one a lot of clutch material in there. That's true That's pretty nasty right around there. So we'll wipe all that off It looks like they also play anti-seize on this when they put it back in Somebody had it out looked at it once. I don't know now for the second clutch actuator. I Really need to buy the high-speed ratchet. This one's fine. But man, what's this taking like five seconds per bolt? All right, another clutch actuator with a bunch of clutch material built up on it. I would say this does have a bad clutch in it Thanks Ford over here on the transmission Pull this up a little bit. We got to get this ring off of here. That's holding the clutch back I should I should secure this thing just a little bit better So we're gonna grab a screwdriver and work that snap ring out of here because unfortunately I don't have flyers that are gonna get that out turn the bottom one and I'll pop the top ready Snap ring removed. All right, though. This has a direction These are tapered How tough to see that taper that's for sure. Well, we know the rusty side goes down That's how she's gonna go in. So I'll lay it out There's our spline drive and Yeah, it's just two clutches stacked up it's not wet I I assumed all DCTs were wet, but this is like the cheapest way you could possibly build a dual clutch. I had no idea so anyway Now we've got a tool that hooks into these hooks here and rips this off because it's kind of it's pressed onto the bearing Well Jared's here looking around wondering why I'm doing this by myself So he decided he'd open up our new parts, which is probably smart I mean, I didn't open them. I just assumed they were gonna be right, but they look right based on what we're seeing here We got we got some clutch forks right there and the springs that they ride on What's that? Bearing the other clutch fork. Yeah, and then of course the that's that's the guide that goes on the main center shaft there and then here's our Twin disc clutch that gets applied With two different actuators Well, that does look nice and new. It's super heavy man. That is one heavy clutch Crazy right a Mechanical marvel of just stacking two of them together Interesting way to do it if you're trying to be cheap and act like Porsche so That is the luck rep set. Well, we've got this thing set up all wrong Obviously you should lay the transmission on its side But it's gonna work just fine because we've got two people here to kind of help make this happen But Jared's got his crescent wrench out, which is probably enough to make the puller pull this clutch So there's three little fingers they sit behind it I'm gonna be ready to catch this. That's my plan here Okay, this is The full body clutch catcher. Yeah, you got a knee and a hand Wow, that should come right off We did obviously do the bad thing and use the impact Clutch sounds terrible. Look at all the clutch material falling out of it Of course it yeah clutch material everywhere Well, you know, I guess it was a worn clutch Got our new bearing plate. Obviously, we got a new one of those All right, you better don't rip this apart cuz I got to put it back together. I Need to know how it came apart. How's it feel? I Mean, it's still a low-mileage car Now we got to unbolt the clutch forks there they do have to go back in in the right order So don't mess this up first. I'm gonna spray this all out with brake clean So it's nice and pretty and once we get it all cleaned up, we'll keep going What is it? I think it's four bolts on each one of these There's two Torx and two eTorx two eTorx two Torx and once you get all those out You can start throwing in new parts and we're also gonna replace this cover there on that main shaft Not too much to do Honestly, once it's apart and we'll tear the puller back apart clean up the case and keep rocking guys. Look at this We got new hardware for everything in this kit. This is nice because I didn't have the right snap ring pliers And we've got new nuts for the clutch to the flywheel. We've got new bolts for the For the clutch forks. We've got new bolts for the actuators Literally everything's in here. So we get to replace it all it'll all be nice and fresh This one's probably fine, but it got a little bit chewed up not enough to matter but Here we go. Let's start cleaning after a break clean bath. This thing looks brand new inside You can see it's still a little bit wet down there But I did a lot of cleaning to get all that clutch dust out of this thing Now we're ready to bust these nuts or bolts off right there that pulls off these big spring-loaded hold downs And then we can pull those bolts and actually get out what this is What the clutch actuator drives in is this unit right here? So the motor turns a little spline shaft and it just runs in and out real quick and that's what pushes on these forks and after all of that magic happens the clutch is released or applied and You know, if one's releasing the other ones applying and that's how it shifts fast So we're just moments away from having all this out I'll throw you back on time-lapse and we'll rip it apart So my clutch forks here came in an assembly where each one was bagged individually So I didn't bother checking them, but I do I'm gonna say you probably should check There's four numbers in the middle of this spring bolt assembly here on this one It's 0 2 1 0 and you need to compare that to the number that's laser engraved on the clutch forks I hear it's 0 2 1 0 same the these should be the same and these should be the same So make sure you're right on that torque these to 26 newton-meters or convert that to whatever you want using Siri Look at that. She responded and I I Didn't even want to talk to her and then 19 newton-meters on those Torx bolts back there All right Looks like we're set up now we can install the throwout bearing that sits on here and it's it only fits one way So it should be pretty easy to figure that out one more fun thing about this part of the job There's laser engraved marks on the fork and it lines up with one of the marks on here. So this lets it wobble basically, right? So if you install it wrong It's not gonna wobble and it won't be able to apply it because I mean it has to pivot on top of that So you got to make sure you get that lined up. These are lined up and I line them up first and Then tighten them down which is probably the easy way to do it. I thought we'd run into this problem today We are headed to the lake house to finish up a few more things up there What bigger screws to hold the lights under the counters and just a bunch of little random stuff some paint touch-up and the power for The oven that's basically all we've got left up there. So I need to quit on this and Not only that I need some help so we can get this thing on the ground I can hook it to the other lift with a Strap or something like that get it off the transmission jack turn it on its side and lay it down But basically to install the clutch you need to get this thing on its side It's got to be laying like this so the clutch can drop straight on here without Losing the alignment of the plates that go over the bearings and everything like that So we got to get all that sorted out and I need to go get a set of snap ring pliers So a trip to Harbor Freight a little bit of help so I can drop this thing on the ground and that is what we need To wrap up the focus transmission and then of course, we'll get it put back in too and get this thing back on the road That is it for today guys. Thank you so much for watching Don't forget to head on over to shop watch chair.com for cool shirts Like the one I'm wearing under this and please like share subscribe do whatever you want to do and I will talk to you Next time all this stuff was working But hey, it's gonna work a lot better when one of the clutches engages properly and one other thing before I pull the clips out of here, I'm gonna drop the Actuated a clutch actuator back in place just to hold everything We're not gonna put the bolts in it But we're gonna drop them in place just to make sure that nothing gets out of whack and then you pull off these shipping clips You just release them like that and pull straight out and then drop the clutch on so that's all that's left