Pro Climber Coaches Amateur on HARD Boulders

Hello everyone, welcome back to another video. Today Alex and I are at The Hangar in Reading which is a brand new centre. It's opening this weekend so it'll be open by the time this video goes up. So today we figured we would just take you along on, I was going to say fairly chill but it might not be fairly chill. I don't know if it's going to be that chill. Alex and I are going to be projecting together. Alex has picked out a black on this steep kind of cave roofy thing. I have picked out a white. So we're going to be projecting side by side. What's the flavour of your water Alex? So it's pretty steep. I've not had a proper good look at it yet but it looks like big moves, like complexity in the roof so I have a feeling there's going to be some figuring out the moves. But it looks hard so it's going to be good. I feel for all the problem it looks fairly long. Yeah so that's sort of half the reason I picked it because it's got so many moves. We're going to be able to really work through the projecting on the individual moves, refining them and be able to learn from that section. Perfect, cool. Mine is beefy. It's just steep isn't it? Yeah do you reckon like toes involved? I reckon there's going to be some toes, some heels. I think it's going to be quite a lot of doing moves, cutting loose, getting your foot into a good position. It's going to be quite a lot of like, it's not just left, right, left, right, left, right, foot, left, right, foot. It's going to be like okay I do this then I do that and like figuring out a really good beat for that. I think it's going to be important and refining that so we can move quickly. It's going to be really good to try and help. So when I start a project it depends how like diligent I'm being. If I'm like in comp climbing, do it quick like performance mode, then I will spend a long time analysing. I'll like start at the bottom, I'll work for all the moves, I'll feel whatever holds I can from the ground. And I think that's what we should do today. I think if you're trying to project to your max, like the more goes you have the more tired you're going to get. So I think if we just work through the boulders and say like have an idea of what we're going to do and then we'll try out a hard go from the bottom, because it's always good to have a flash, and then we'll start to work on individual moves. So it starts on this nice big jog here and we've got this kind of like flat foot so we're moving out into these two little crimps in the roof but that foot's really bad so I bet I'm going to have to push off that, hit this, and then take a cut. It's going to kind of twist out a little bit. And then this is a bit that I'm quite excited for. So I see a big jog up there that's leading me into putting a heel out first, which I think would be cool. I'm wondering, but then you can also use that nice big foot there to come to the crimp. But at some point I'm going to have to get this way up here so it might be a bit freestyle. Out to this crimp, I think toe it, come into this volume, match it, and then up into that good hold. Whether or not I can reach that slowly, I don't know. That looks a long way away. And then these two holds together are quite good so I can kind of pop into it. And then the top looks simple but hard. So crimp, crimp, roll to the bottom. So I'm going to have a go. Oh okay. So when I'm projecting, I'm trying to hardball it. I don't try for the ground every time. Like if I'm in a comp, that's the thing you do. But for me it's like working individual moves, refining them. So I'm going to try that move in a minute. But I'm quite tired so I think it's your go. So I'm thinking I've got quite a nice hold here that I can go for a little bit of a pinch on. I'm thinking I'm going to go left into this which is fairly nice and positive. What makes you think left? I think it's right. I think you're right. I think it's that good foot. Because I've got the good left foot here, I think I'm going to instinctively want to twist out that way. Also that would be further away. So left, right, toe hook. I think that's going to be quite hard. Then I'm going to have to release the toe I think as I'm going for this. Because I'm not quite sure if I'd be able to hold the toe in. I don't know. I think if you have the toe in and you get to the hold you're still going to have to take the swing anyway. There's not really any way of releasing it. You might as well release it early so you don't build up a load of tension. I'm much done here hopefully. What I thought was get a right foot into this hold and go right, get a foot up and go left. But I'm thinking that I'm getting a bit ahead of myself because there's something here. I'm not quite sure how I'm going to do that. So I would say that hold looks pretty bad and that hold looks pretty good. There are tips you can use. This hold is really chalky. That hold's really chalky. But that hold's not very chalky, it's very rubbery. So it's like a little clue. These are white so if you find a load of rubber on something it's like really nice come on yeah super tidy come on get it yeah how's the toe hook? The toe hook was okay it's a little better and what kind of changed the start move for me actually is that this side of this hold is a lot better than this side. It's like the left side is thicker on this side and dual tex whereas the left side of it is a lot thinner and you can get more of a pinch on it. So I mean the move that you fell on is this. I didn't really try max hard. So I reckon if we get you into that position so I can like push you into it maybe that seems like a good thing yeah to try and then you can like get in position and try just that. I think so when I'm projecting for me I like really want to do the one on the session like you could learn all the moves and do quite a lot but then be too tired at the end. I think conserving energy while you're just trying to work everything out is important. Sure I'm gonna have a go. I'm gonna try this move out left. I think mostly it was I think it's just like commitment going for that move and making sure that I'm fresh from the start. That's really cool. I got ideas. I got ideas. So I think firstly I'm gonna pull on up there because those moves are quite hard. I don't have to do them again. I sort of know what to do on them now. It's like I just have to try hard and go a long way but this bit is like you drop in here and then go out. I'm also wondering if I can get a really high toe hook in here or a heel, match it, come out first and then fall back. I'm gonna try that individually. What would your advice be on rest? So you want to rest more than you think basically. I'm really I think everybody's guilty but I definitely am of like rapid firing and you don't actually get a very good sense of how hard the move is because you're actually tired from the move. A good rule of thumb is to rest like a minute for every move that you've done. So I've just done three or four moves there really like you could rest up to like three or four minutes. Three to four minutes is a really good like starting point to aim for if you like feel like tired at all for like regaining that power. But that being said I'm gonna have a go because I want to know how I'm trying. It's about having fun as well isn't it? Go on. Okay wow I'm gonna be so scared on that. Oh cool so the heel worked but it wasn't quite what I like expected. So I did the heel and then came in here. I was thinking I would match and go there. Yeah. If you like the look of the space that Alex and I are climbing in today remember you can redeem 50% off your first climb at any of the eight climbing hangar locations nationally. Book online and use code HANNAH50 and let me know how you get on. Of course I've had my go. It's actually quite cold today like we're in the middle of winter in the UK. As nice as climbing walls are they're never going to be warm. I'm actually going to take quite a long rest because I've just had a couple of those. Worst thing that you can do is get too cold. So I'm going to take my shoes off, I'm going to put jumper on and actually try and stay warm in between goes. Ready for a go? I am ready for a go. I think I'm gonna take a leaf out of the whole like moving efficiently but um there's definitely ways that I can clean up um or improve on my first go that will make that start bit quicker so I've got a little bit more for the for the jump hopefully. So in here. You should be able to support. I reckon so. Easy. With the... Do you think double toe is best or should I? I think one toe is better. One toe what you can do is if you drop the left leg down it's like less it's like less swing so use that to like udge in the right direction but then the next time that you're going to is really good so. Nice. Yeah I like the bicycle. That's it. Come on. Yep. Yes. Cool. I think that'll go. That'll go for sure. Yeah. So the thing is if you if you try to link those first three moves together into every time like they won't take a lot out of you but if you try that move five times and on its own that's only five moves but if you link the one two three like four-ish moves including the feet every single time you try it all of a sudden you've tried 20 moves. Yeah. And that like adds up over the session. It's about trying to find those like little efficiencies both on the climb but through the process as well. Yeah I think that's a good point about confidence and being like I know that I can do those moves because I think I'm definitely guilty of being like I've done those moves but it could have been fluke or it could have just been I was fresh or I'll find any number of excuses to be like I might not get them next time so I just need to try it like three more times to make sure that it's dialled. I also think there's something to be said about how high up the boulder. Yeah. So if that move that you're not sure about is the last move on the boulder. Yeah. Yeah maybe you do want to drill it in. Yeah. But if you were to fall off that first move it's not going to make any difference you're not going to be tired when you fall off that first move you can get back on it in two minutes time so. So tighten the left hand. Yes easy. Match if you can. Yeah sick. Heel high. Nice that's good. Come on. She is great. Come on focus. Come on. Space to match. Yeah really cool. Three fingers sick. Come on. Come on post up for this massive hold. Oh no. Come on I got you I got you. Come on try hard. You could see like you could see the moment that I was like oh no I'm bailing. You said oh no. Oh did I? You could hear the moment. Oh man. You can do that move. Yeah. That was really good so this is like a so you've now done it in like two bits basically. Yeah. You've got that last move to do so it looked like you moved really slowly through this section. Yeah. Basically I think if you just bash it out and like commit through it and find that one pitch and seize you're going to get to that top move and you're going to be fresh rather than getting to the top Sure. Yeah chilling come on. Top move. I climb as though I don't trust what I'm doing and I climb as though I haven't figured out yet what I'm trying to do. I'm so unsure on the wall that I waste a lot of time. So we've climbed together quite a lot now I would say. Yeah. But I think I've seen you in moments when you do when you are like yeah I believe in that. I believe I can do that move then you just do it you bash it out. Yeah. And I think there's something to be said for it doesn't really matter how long it takes you to like find that confidence. If this takes you one session or two sessions it doesn't really matter. Yeah. If you find that confidence in the end. So one of the cool things about climbing for me is I'm like it's something that I like practice and I know that I'm good at it and I know that for me like a lot of my like psychology practice is like trusting myself to just do what I know I can do. I almost like I think about there's like two me's there's like the me that like thinks about stuff and then there's a climbing me. The big trick for me was to like well the big difficulty and the thing that I like try and do is to for me right now to get out of the way of climbing me. Let climbing me do what I want. When I have my best performances it's like I'm watching somebody do it. Yeah. Which is amazing. That's really interesting. I have the potential to not even climb harder but just get more enjoyment out of climbing by being able to enter that the zone where I can be like I am just gonna try. I think it's the ability to just like it's non-judgment essentially. You don't fall off something and you're like that was bad. It's like okay cool that was in that was interesting. It's that is what actually the reason I think climbing is so good and what I've like learned the most from. It's like a little encapsulation of life. It's like that's actually how you do better in life is to just trust yourself and do what you're good at and like don't get in your own way or whatever and climbing is a nice like narrow version of that where I can just focus on the moves. Cool I'm gonna figure out this first bit so I can I know that he is fine. Last time I like threw a heel out in front of me and then like pulled towards it and then came back down. I think it's going to be much quicker and therefore more efficient. Yeah so I actually just dropped off then because I know I can do that but I've already done it like I don't I actually want to have a go from the start now. I think I can do it but what's there's no point in like trying that move again trying myself out when I'm not going to send the boulder. So the things I'm going to focus on this time are like moving quickly and efficiently trying to be like but like I'm going to prepare the boulder before I start. If I'm trying something hard I want to give myself the best response possible so I'm gonna brush every hole all the way up. Oh I'm a bit nervous, I'm a bit nervy. You've got better place. Yeah get it come on. I rushed a little bit there. It's hard that move you have to jump a long way but basically I was trying to move too quickly I didn't look at it and then go I sort of was halfway through the move and then I started looking at it so I just missed. Cool so you've made some pretty good progress like you've done most of the moves now. You've done all of the moves from the start to the very last one. Yeah. So what what do you think you like want to try? Feeling insecure about the top move so I'd like to go into my like send go knowing that I could do the top move. Yeah I think that's good. And then also I think I could clean up the middle section so I'd be tempted to have a look at how I could move through that quicker so that I've got a little more at the end. So you could combine those together and just start on that jug after the like hardest physical moves. Yeah. Focus on moving like quickly and efficiently and then rather than just tying the top move in isolation where like you're gonna be totally fresh you've already yeah you're a little bit depleted so it feels a little bit more like it will on the That seems worthwhile. At least then you can sort of kill two birds with one stone. Sure. Really strong. Good. Come on. Come on. Big up for this last move. You've got it. Come on. I'm blurry. I'm spotting you. Come on. Give it some. It's good. Yeah. Fill in. That was cool. You could hear you like give it the like. Come on breathe. Oh I think there's a change I want to make near to the start but I'm not sure that I need to practice it. So that is basically if the moves that you're trying to work are at the start. Yeah. There's an argument for saying just trying from the start every time because if you make it through then not only will you learn those moves very well but then you'll have a chance for a top section. There's no point pulling on from one move in doing the move really easily and then going to the top. Like I think now you're probably it's probably time to try and bang it out. I'm gonna do the same thing. I'm gonna have a go. Do it. Okay so this time I'm last time I held this like quite far around and then hold it below so I can like. But I think I'm just gonna try it out. It's my main plan. Go on. Come on. Are you okay? That hurts. Are you good? Yeah I think I'm okay. It's a little windy. What happened? I have no idea. What happened so quickly? So my left hand felt like it slipped and I was like. Before you got the grip. And I just went like straight. I was so psyched as well. I thought you're proper pulled out on the first bit. I was so close to falling off on this bit too. I was like on the drag here. Yeah. And then like I didn't have any space so I just like grabbed my own hand. Yeah. And then it was like okay that left hand's gonna slip. I was like right pull like that and just hit this as a drag too. You were robbed. I was robbed. Totally robbed. You're supposed to enter the confident nothing's gonna go wrong zone after having just seen that. No I'm all right. I'm all right. I'm still here. I'm breathing. That happens all the time. You'll be all right. Maybe hurt yourself one day. You'll be fine. You'll be all right. Right I really like projecting with other people because like we're climbing two totally different boulders. Yeah. But they're right next to each other. We're both having the same experience. Yeah. I'm trying hard and now hopefully you can transfer some of that like into your own thing. Pick it up off there. And then you're gonna send. Off the airwaves. You're gonna get knee size. And then you're gonna hop on the train. And I'm gonna pull you straight on and do it. Yeah. Despite the fact that my arm hurts a bit. Yes. You were hanging last time. Good. Come on. Swing that heel in. Nice. Come on. Get it good. Come on. Yes. You're moving super nice. Good. Come on. Try harder. Yes Hannah. Come on. Come on. I'm here. You've got it. Come on. It's good. Get it. Come on. Yeah. Yeah. Sick. That was mega. Thank you. Your turn. I don't know. I've just got to enjoy it. Do you want a new ability at this? No I'm gonna do it right now. Go on. Come on Alec. Come on. Oh no. That was looking so smooth through the start. It's tiring. Yeah. I can do it. Okay. So right. I've got an idea. So right now I'm like jumping off that low foot with this hand here. And it makes this move like really snappy. And just like I have to pull really hard when I hit it. So I've got an idea. There is this crimp underneath. So I'm gonna try and like drive my toe through it. Let's see if that's any better. Feels a bit awkward. Yeah. Go on. Go on. Go on. Yeah. Oh yeah. That's so much more consistent. Loads better. Oh right. Game on now. Do you think a lot of the. You know when you came onto here and you didn't hit it very well. Then you ended up with your hand over your other hand. Yeah. Do you think that was because you couldn't like get that in the way that you needed to? So as soon as I jumped to that. There's a load of weight on the left hand. And I can't. I can't adjust on it. So that time because I had a little something pushing me that way. From that little toe. I can pull into a crimp. Which I like a lot more. Yeah. I might still grab my own hand to pull up. It's a little. Like it works. But now I'm fairly sure I can do that. Yes. Come on. Nice. Nice. Nice. Come on. Yes. Yes. Good. Good. Good. Good. I don't need it. It's so scary that last move. Cool. Take a massive swing. It is a big swing. I felt like I was going to land on you. There we go. That's how it's a project. That's how it's a project. This never happens. Thank you very much for taking the time to walk through my project. And smashed it. Nice job on your project. That was pretty sick to watch. That's cool. Good baller. Hope you found this video on like how to approach projects that you're limited informative. I'll leave links down in the description to Alex's social media and the Hangar Redding social media. So make sure you do go check both of them out and we'll see you in another video. Bye. Bye.