Motorcycle Adventure Storyteller Podcast | What's it like on a BMW Safari

My name's Dave Darcy, welcome to Motorcycle Adventure Storyteller and it's a podcast, kind of like an audio book. Now there's two podcasts on Motorcycle Adventure at Dirt Bike TV, this kind of audio book approach. These are long stories and sometimes editorials and they're just for laying back and just chilling and listening to what I have to say. And then the other is Motorcycle Talk and Motorcycle Talk is a live podcast that allows you to interact and in that one we deal with more technical issues. For example, how to film a motorcycle adventure or what do you think about AI vests and I don't know, it could be maintenance, bike maintenance, it could be suspension, it could be anything. So that's more technically related and that gives the audience an opportunity to interact. So today we're going to read from some two entries I've made in Australian Adventure Motorcycle magazine from issue 17. I'll do an editorial first and then following the editorial I'm going to provide you my insight into riding a BMW Rally and I've had the great pleasure of doing that a couple of times now and this is from being, from the perspective of being an embedded journalist. And in the background you may hear occasionally a bit of snoring, that's my dog. I can't kick her out, she's a loyal friend and she sits beside me and you're just going to have to pick up, put up with the snoring. So this editorial is called Freezin' for No Reason. I had been battling bitterly cold rain for nearly two hours as I headed south towards Walker on a freezing winter's day. Despite the tough times I was feeling chipper. Through what I thought was a masterful ingenuity, I had solved a painful problem. Who would have thought that weak old socks rummaged out of my gear bag and stuffed into my open motocross helmet would stop the pain of the raindrops hitting my lips and cheeks. Brilliant I thought. The solution seemed perfectly appropriate in the circumstances. Well that was until the juice from my weak old socks dribbled down to the top of my lip. That reservoir of evil liquid probably contained more bacteria than a three week old dead roo and it hovered at my mouth for what seemed like hours. But in the veil of that oppressive cold I eventually and very reluctantly gave in and licked it off with my tongue. I can still taste it now. It was an exotic flavour that I will never forget. It's hard to describe and revolting doesn't quite do it justice. But strangely over time that taste became more acceptable. Kind of like a bad green tea. Perhaps by that stage hypothermia had scrambled my brain. My gear was hopelessly inadequate for this ride. In a desperate attempt to keep dry the garbage bags taped around my chest, legs and boots were as useful as a fly screen door on a submarine. I'd learned a valuable lesson. Motocross gear doesn't work for adventure riding. With a commitment to solve this problem I went and bought some purpose-designed adventure gear with dry liners. They're called dry liners but they should be called basting bags because they're similar to the ones used to cook chickens in their own juices in the oven. You end up wetter from your own sweat and sadly for many years I thought that was the only solution available. Fast forward a couple of years and I was heading off to ride from London to Sydney and I'd secured sponsorship from Steve Smith from Adventure Moto and he gave me a Climb Badlands Pro seat. I recall looking at the cost of the jacket and pants and thinking who in their right mind would pay that much for riding gear. On that 18 000 kilometre trip temperatures ranged from 40 degrees to minus four. With a wind stopper jacket and two layers of merino wool I could literally take on the world comfortably. There I was in the Himalayas at over 17 000 feet and in my cocoon of goodness I was warmer than I was in Wolka. Six years later I was riding the Road of Bones in Siberia in relentless rain and sleet for days. Again nice and toasty and memories of freezing in Wolka came flooding back. Could you imagine me rocking up to a Siberian local and saying mate this isn't cold you need to come to Wolka. You can blame this year's BMW GS Safari in Tasmania for this rant. We copped four seasons not in a day but in a couple of hours. At times temperatures hovered around two to four degrees with some very decent downpours of freezing cold rain driven by arctic wind gusts that would make a polar bear run for cover. Throw in a couple of buckets of snow and sleep for good measure. With my Gore-Tex jacket and Gore-Tex lined boots and gloves can you see the pattern here? Life was peachy. Apart from the extreme conditions being inconvenient they certainly weren't affecting my quality of life and I was dry from head to toe. On the other hand my riding buddy who was wearing a motocross helmet and dry liner jacket was bordering on being incoherent with hypothermia. Cold creeps up on you and as it seeps into your body it slows your reflexes, clouds your judgment and narrows your vision. Fatigue is a killer and you're being lined up for a big get-off that could have been avoided by having the right riding gear. Safe comfortable rewarding adventure riding is not all about the bike. Good riding gear should be one of the first investments and it doesn't have to cost you a million dollars but keeping the water out and keeping warm is essential if you want to avoid an expensive hospital bill. As I watched my riding buddy slowly turn into a popsicle I thought about those weak old socks Green Tea and Walker. Ah don't you love the warm glow of nostalgia? My next story is called Tasmanian Travelers and I was embedded in the BMW GS Safari a couple of years ago and we had the great pleasure of riding some of the best trails in Tasmania and I had a BMW GS 1250 Triple Black for those couple of days ride but being embedded in this Safari was a truly great experience and I'd like to share it with you. When it was hovering around three degrees blowing a gale and pissing down rain I've come to the conclusion the BMW GS 1250 Triple Black is the bike for me. It's as comfortable as a lounge chair with a windshield that keeps the elements at bay and handles mud really well and those five stage heated grips and seat well they take comfort to another level. These beamers are the ultimate super tourers. I'm embedded in the 2022 BMW GS Safari in Tasmania for a couple of days to sample the delights of this very popular event and unlike Victoria where you can experience four seasons in one day we're experiencing four seasons in one hour. This event continues to grow in popularity in no small part due to the highly professional efforts of the BMW Safari team led by Chris Urquhart his partner Anthea Verdorn and Shane Booth. Urqui and Boothy are former pro mx racers who have made a seamless transfer to the adventure scene and now stage a range of BMW packed adventure rides tours and training activities. The annual GS Safari is one of their banner events and they focus on this sizable group ride being fun and inclusive of a range of skill levels. There is a particular emphasis on building a ride culture that values looking after each other and being courteous and from my observations of riding with the group it's working well. I mean some of the rides I go on with some of the manufacturers it's just all in it just gets crazy sometimes and you can notice the difference with the BMW rides. Start times each day are between 7 30 a.m and 8 30 and many of the faster riders either start early or quickly move through the pack. Despite the large number of riders 250 starters of whom about 50 percent are on their first safari they spread out pretty quickly and there's lots of ride room. I pick up the five day ride on the evening of day three for the riders briefing in a huge well-appointed auditorium at the swanky Restpoint hotel in Hobart. A detailed map of the following day's ride is handed out while information about fuel food and hazards is detailed. Plus there's a QR code that puts the route into google maps on your smartphone. There's really no excuse for getting lost because a couple of weeks ahead the safari team provide the full route in a gpx file for your navigation device. To be sure to be sure zero riders also mark the route with arrows so it'd be hard to get lost. Now this chapter is titled Miles of Smiles and you'll see what I mean. At the briefing the highlight for me is the interaction between BMW legend Miles Davis and the group. It's hilarious there's a good cop bad cop vibe going on. Erky and Boothy are the happy-go-lucky guys and the riders respond in kind. Meanwhile Miles capably plays the role of enforcer and the mood of the audience quietens in anticipation of the reaming they're gonna get for unsafe indiscretions or poor riding technique. Miles stands up and slowly looks around the room with his intense dark knowing eyes looking for miscreants that he's observed during the day. There are some nervous jeers in the room as he launches into what he saw and didn't like and he doesn't hold back. But it's in the interest of safety and becoming a safer rider and he does it brilliantly. The riders look up to him and listen they know he's an outstanding rider and they know he has their interests at heart. But let's be clear Anthea is the brains behind this show. Her organizational ability is breathtaking and when she speaks the audience falls silent. They hang off every word she says and whilst I appreciate BMW's German roots this Safari runs like a Swiss watch and it's in no small part due to Anthea's drive and determination to get it right. Time to ride. I kick off day four on a BMW 1250 GS triple black and my riding buddy is journalist Dylan Ruddy of Bike Sales. He's on a tricked out BMW 1250 GSA. That is one of Erky's regular mounts. No pressure not to bin it Dylan. Neither of us has brought a GPS we've just got maps in our phone and good eyesight for the arrows or so we thought. Hobart city is left behind pretty quickly and country roads give way to dirt. We're in brilliant sunshine as we take on our first forest track. Conditions are great with no dust and recent rain means there are some slippery patches that keep you on your toes. In this first section the track is as smooth as a billiard table. I'm finding the standing position on the big beamer comfortable. For those unfamiliar with BMW's trademark telelever front suspension it's a good thing that greatly improves stability. The bike is less prone to dive under brakes or acceleration and just feels so planted. The 19 inch front and 17 inch rear wheel combination work well in the dirt even in the slow and slippery stuff. Another reason for this is the beamer's low center of gravity and wide bars. When the going gets too tough low seat height means you can drop to your backside and paddle and remain upright. Some riders might bemoan organized group rides but I love riding in large groups like this particularly when there is a little rain hanging about. It holds the dust down, makes overtaking safer for all concerned and keeps riders comfortable and maintains a chilled karma for the ride. Before long we pop out on some twisty blacktop winding through rolling hills of open farmland. If you talk to any 1200 GS rider about twisty blacktop they get all misty eyed on you as the bike does it so well. It's all about the combination of the effortless tractor-like torque of the engine, the pulls from nothing and the way the bike willingly tips from right to left and locks into a line like a laser guided missile. Match that with a very comfortable seated position and great wind protection and you'll understand why I'm loving it and finding the big Bavarian as much fun on the tar as it is on the dirt. In fact Dylan and I were having too much fun. We missed some well-displayed arrows and proceeded 20 kilometers off course. Oops! Not that I'm complaining the tar in Tassie is magnificent. This place is jam-packed with corners that I suspect were designed by a race car driver. Combine that with bright sunlight illuminating the autumn colors in the landscape and it's a real highlight of my first ride in Tassie. A line of BMWs all with their rear wheels nestled against the kerb in the main street of a small town gives a strong hint it's time for lunch or a coffee. Time to get to know a little bit more about this Beamer family. Yes this pack does have its fair share of professional well-to-dos and rich farm cockies but it's much bigger and broader family than that. Clearly it's a welcoming family because half the riders haven't previously ridden a safari event. Interestingly there's more than a fair sprinkling of BMW 310GSs which from my own experience I know is a very reasonably priced bike with good dirt and tar handling and power enough to skip along at highway speeds. I catch up with 310GS riders Anna Shah and Chappie Wilson who are clearly enjoying their first safari and I'm immediately struck by their enthusiasm and passion. Anna has only been riding for 18 months but has already developed a hankering for more technical riding and tells me she's loving the off-road sections on her debut safari. Another rider wearing a broad smile is Neil Silver who last year took on the GS Safari in far north Queensland and will soon start laughing over memories of the infamous Imogen Creek section on the Bloomfield track north of Cape Tribulation. Neil's back again and for this year's safari he's brought along a group of mates who all ride the mighty 1200s and the latest 1250GSs. Lattes and baked treats consumed Dylan and I eventually get back on route and are rewarded with fast flowing twin track that progressively gets narrower, slipperier, rockier and culminates in a small water crossing with a blind entry that causes a little traffic jam. This is where we see the generous and thoughtful side of the Beamer family. There's a whole lot of people there helping when riders need it but leaving them alone if they want to work it out for themselves and celebrating with them when they make it. Chris Urquhart describes the situation perfectly. Sometimes we end up with 200 crew members if something goes wrong. Everyone pulls up and does their bit until our staff arrive which is never far away. It's a great community that's for sure. A little further down the trail Dylan and I arrive at a T-intersection manned by miles. It's decision time. Do we follow the green arrows to the left or the harder red arrows to the right? Miles has positioned himself next to a makeshift control point and is providing sage advice to riders. After riding with the group for days he's got a good appreciation of capabilities and politely but firmly advises riders on the route they should take. While chatting to Miles he provides some detailed explanation of the Enduro and Enduro Pro. I've been riding in Enduro which calibrates ABS and traction control for dirt. One of the strengths of that system is that you can grab a handful of either front or rear brake and it applies both brakes for maximum stopping power on that surface. It's amazing technology. You do notice traction control interfering on slippery uphills under power but all in all it's a very capable system that encourages the rider to ride smoothly and efficiently. But I want to unleash the power of the beast. As Miles says about Enduro Pro it's a great mode for people who have experienced off-road riding and like to use their rear brake. It also turns off and limits traction control to a minimum. An additional two settings of road and rain can also be quickly flicked through on the fly from a button on the top of the right side switch block. They instantly recalibrate the bike's suspension settings, power, ABS and traction control for optimum performance and safety. With a go ahead from Miles I follow Dylan onto the red trail and it's loamy stuff with just the right amount of give to allow for controlled rear wheel lock-ups and comfortable controlled sliding. We're in heaven, it's just perfect riding. But the track takes on a sinister feel as the rainforest canopy darkens the light, the descent steepens and it gets a hell of a lot slipperier. This is when you realize you're on a 200 kilogram plus bike and you've got to bring your A-game. Dylan's about 30 meters in front of me and his red taillight is swinging from one side of the other. That's not a good sign, but things going well. There's a tree laying halfway across the track right on the apex of a left-hand corner and pulling up the beamer is proving difficult for him. Off the track he goes ever so slowly. Note to self, you need mates if you're going to ride off-piste in a mountain rainforest on a beamer. Fortunately the generosity of the beamer family got us out of our difficulty and back on track. Once out of the rainforest we get into dry, rocky country for our descent back into civilization and notice a couple of riders off to the side with flats. It's tough going but rewarding and caps off what was a fantastic day's ride. The next morning, the start of the fifth and final day of the safari, I catch up with Sam Hamden, who proves typical of many riders from the BMW family. The tracks they take you on, you'd never go there by yourself, Sam readily admits. If it wasn't for the GS Safari team, I wouldn't be seeing these raw and beautiful places. Apart from riding around town, all of the 11,000km on my bike have been done with the GS Safari crew. From the looks of the day 5 map that promises 275km of dirt through the guts of the high country of Tassie, topped off with an extreme weather forecast, it's shaping up to be a very memorable day's adventure. We enter the dirt very quickly, kicking off with some firmly packed smooth sandy tracks with great grip before launching into the rainforest again. There things get a little tricky at times with slippery sections that keep you on your toes. The variation in landscape, riding conditions is brilliant. The effort that's gone into route planning by Boothie and Miles is obvious. We stop off at Methina Country Club and catch up with some of the international contingent. This group of riders are from Chile and are full of great energy and vibe. It's obvious they're loving the tracks and trails and they'd like to thank their mummies for letting them come over. We also caught up with General Manager of BMW Motorrad Australia Andreas Lundgren and his passion for motorcycling is obvious. He was on a 1250GS but kindly gave that bike to a customer who binned his and when we catch up with him he's on a BMW 310GS and from the way he's riding he's getting the best out of that little bike. It's pretty clear he's no pen pusher and we stop beside the road to have a chat and Andreas is excited to tell me BMW Motorrad is seriously considering a plan to provide experiences for riders around the world in a similar format to the GS Safari. Now that's something to get excited about and I'd go there like the drop of a hat. Andreas, Dylan and I ride together for a while climbing up into the mountains and snow country. The terrain is awesome but the slippery switchbacks on the red clay catch out the unwary and there are a few low speed falls. Dylan has to savour the day after completely losing it and somehow managing to stay on and regain control. Then it's back onto some spectacular twisty black top before again heading into the dirt and repeat. This is soul food and we're having a feast. The weather was slowly deteriorating as we arrived at the base of Jacob's Ladder. It was obvious there was going to be no spectacular view at the top but we had to do it and by this time the temperatures were around two degrees and every now and again you'd be hit by a bucket of large snowflakes. As we came off the mountain there was a brief window of good riding before we were smashed with ice cold rain wrapped in strong wind gusts fresh from the Antarctic. It was a chilling cold that would make a polar bear shiver. More than a few riders weren't prepared for such extreme conditions. They downed tools, found a pub and sat next to a big old Tassie wood fire. I was lucky I had the right gear and I was warm and dry wrapped in my cocoon of goodness courtesy of my triple blacks heated grips and seat. Fundamentally this is why the 1250 GSs are so popular. They are the ultimate super tourer. They look after the rider and can comfortably punch out big miles but it's not just comfort. Solid handling in the dirt and on the tar, a great engine and a sizable fuel range capped off with very sophisticated electronics that enhance rider experience and safety without interfering in the pleasure of riding make for a complete package. But that's only half of the BMW equation. I genuinely love coming on these events because the riders are buzzing to be there and out on the track they look after each other. Enthusiasm like Petra Hennig's is so infectious. Petra rides a 1250 GS and when asked about her favourite experience of the safari she lights up and her eyes widen. Yesterday was so good. That red section oh my gosh. They say communication between humans is mostly non-verbal. Well Petra's response made it perfectly clear. She didn't have to say a word for me to know she was very very bloody happy. And I leave the GS Safari thinking to myself I want to be a part of that. Congratulations BMW and the BMW Safari team for a cracking event once again. Well I hope you've liked Motorcycle Adventure Storyteller and in the coming weeks we'll read from other magazines and articles that I've published. Until then we'll see you later.