Every Surfers Worst Nightmare...

Ever been caught inside? If you've been hitting the waves for a while, you know the nightmare of being trapped on the inside. But if you're new to this, trust me, watching from the shore doesn't quite capture the terror of going over the falls, facing a two wave hold down, with no escape route. In this video, we're tackling every surfer's nightmare, and giving out the top tips for surviving these heart stopping situations. Whether you're a seasoned pro, or just dipping your toes into the world of waves, get ready for some crucial insights into conquering this nightmare. In the dream realm of riding epic waves, there's a catch. Nature has a way of throwing unexpected curveballs. Whether you are conquering colossal swells, or just testing the waters, life out there is full of lessons. And no matter how many times you learn one of those lessons, there's always a wild card waiting. The notorious quote, going over the falls, is an example in surfing that happens on all skill levels. It can happen to you in any conditions, teaching even the seasoned surfers a lesson or two. But what is the story behind this popular term used in surfing? For all of you over the falls experts like myself, make sure to give your experience in the comments below. So what is an over the falls wipeout? An over the falls wipeout in surfing generally means that you're going to wipe out. But first, you get sucked up from the top of the wave before falling down with the wave's lip. This type of wipeout is actually one of the most dangerous in surfing, because when you fall, there's a very high chance to hit the reef or ocean floor, causing some very serious injuries. The feeling of getting sucked over the falls is like being forced to fall off the top of a building backwards. This can happen when you're too late when duck diving a big set, or if you pull off the wave last second while the energy of the wave is starting to fold. The last wave going over the falls is by far the worst. When falling from the top of the wave or early in the barrel because a wave is sucking water off the reef like Te Upo, it will actually suck you over again after falling the first time. You could even die from an over the falls wipeout, which is why it's important to know how to avoid it. So how do you avoid going over the falls? Although you can't really predict what would happen once you hit the water as a surfer, there are some tips that professionals use to avoid going over the falls. Always try to go for the wave earlier to avoid the late drop and fall, and don't be too far forward on your board when catching a wave to prevent a nose dive. Now, if a freak set is coming at you, it's most likely too late, and you're going to need a duck dive strategy. Duck diving involves submerging the board underwater to minimize the impact of the wave and maintain forward momentum. But there is a time and place where a wave is too big to dive, and you will have to brace for impact for an extreme 2-3 wave hold down. But when is it too big to duck dive? The answer is situational, but the big wave surfer Ricky Whitlock clears things up. Different scenarios call for different actions, said Ricky. If it's a 15 foot white water, I'm going to try to duck dive it. But if it's a 6 foot double up on my head, and I'm on dry reef or super shallow water, I'll probably ditch my board. For the average person, he says trying to duck dive anything over 6-8 feet is going to be more dangerous than beneficial. Because bailing your board comes with its risk, Ricky tries to duck dive whenever he possibly can. Still, he's aware of board size and position in the lineup, with a host of other related factors when opting to duck dive. These 2-3 wave hold downs are a typical surfer's nightmare, with strong rip currents and pin downs. So let's hear the effect of those hold downs from big wave surfer Shane Dorian as he had a vicious encounter with death while surfing Mavericks in California. Shane said, I was already beginning to run out of air when the second wave hit me. He thought he was definitely going to drown. However, he was rescued and resurfaced from the deaths. This shows you how violent a hold out can be, leaving a pro surfer with almost no hope to survive. So what should you do when caught inside of 2, 3, 4, or 5 incoming mountains that are coming to smack you down? Number 1, keep calm. Picture yourself caught inside, waves crashing relentlessly. Panic is a natural response, but let's transform that fear into focus. Imagine you're in the midst of a storm, and panicking would be like losing your compass. Instead, embrace the challenge, ride it out, and in a few intense moments, find yourself back in the calm safety of the shores. Number 2 is going to be control your breath. Being submerged under two powerful waves, you're going to want to take control of your breath. This controlled breathing becomes your anchor, saving energy for the struggle against the strong rip currents. Number 3, stop paddling and take a momentary pause. In the chaos, stop paddling for a brief moment. Use this time to look around, assess the situation, and spot fellow surfers, surfboards, and potential obstacles. It's a strategic pause before facing the next wave on the head. For number 4, we have a quick poll question for you. Explain in the comments what dives you'll pick in certain situations. Decide which kind of duck dive. A, a normal duck dive, B, diving forward up to face while ditching your board, or C, angling yourself towards the beach and getting swept in. If you chose A, you're going to want to hold the rails of your board and go for it. Remember that you can't and shouldn't always duck dive huge waves. It's a mistake and you might get hit by the board, which is the last thing you want happening. If you chose B, don't wait until the last second to duck dive deep. Bigger waves demand earlier dives in order for it to work, so do it as soon as possible. If you chose C, start paddling in and let the broken waves carry you to dry land, but you will likely take more of a beating than the rest of the options. Now I have some breath holding techniques. Alright, let's talk about some tricks for holding your breath when you're stuck in the washing machine. Quick tip, if your heart's racing faster than your usual beat by 25%, your lungs won't be at their A game. Now, a hold down usually doesn't last more than 30 seconds, so just stay cool, calm, and quiet. For the savvy few, there's a flotation device option, which is like a cheat code. It helps you pop up faster than a cork, and when the three wave hold down nightmare ends, recover your health and energy, and also analyze the conditions. Now it's time to decide whether you're ready to give it another go, or call it quits. The question is, how much gas do you have left in the tank? Are you sure you don't need more rest? It's up to you. Now you can find a channel, get back to the lineup, or find a current that will bring you back to shore. You have now learned the experience of a surfer's nightmare, and what it takes to survive these two wave hold downs, over the falls wipe outs, and dealing with the sight of mountains coming at you out the back. And that's why I shared this video with you, because as surfers, we all have been there, and the ocean always reminds us of its power, no matter how prepared we are. If you were interested in this video, don't forget to like and subscribe, and click on this video on how surfing crowds are affecting today's lineups.