Bahan Belajar Dasar Photography

Welcome to medidoo.com class. Basic Digital Photography, Part 1. This material discusses about basic photography. Why do we have to start from the basics? Well, why do we have to learn basic photography? Aren't modern cameras already available in various automatic modes? All we have to do is click and snap, right? Nowadays, technology is getting easier to access. Photography is getting easier with the emergence of digital technology in cameras. Modern cameras are equipped with many automatic modes according to your needs. All you have to do is install it in one of the automatic modes, click, snap, and you're done. The results can be said to be good. However, when the results are sometimes unsatisfactory, we don't know which side to click. Even when it's time to take special photos, like photos of food, flowers, insects, and so on. Then, there are photos without flashlights, photos with night lights, and artistic photos. Because we are used to the automatic mode, it seems like the process is slow. Isn't it? Actually, the more sophisticated a camera is, the more we are required to master the basics of photography so that we can always be smarter than that more genius camera. If we want to understand the basics of photography, we can take pictures in any condition, with any camera, and with maximum results. Next, get to know the parts of the camera in general. First, for example, the Saku camera. In this camera, there are several buttons. The first one is the RANA button. Then, there is a flashlight, there is a built-in lens, there are simple buttons, then there is an LCD screen, where we can directly see the object we take. The second one is the Digital Single Lens Reflex Camera, also known as DSLR. In this DSLR camera, there are also several buttons. The first one is also the RANA button or shutter. Then, there is a sensor, there is a lens that can be switched, there is a reflection mirror, then there is a lens mount, there is a flash or hot shoe mount, then there is an optical viewing window, then buttons to adjust the picture, there is also an LCD panel to display various information, and the last one is the image processor. Next is how the camera works. How does the magical object in your hand work? Have you ever wondered? The DSLR camera is the best example to explain the principle of camera work in general. First, the light enters the camera through the lens, then reflected on the reflex mirror and prism towards the viewfinder or viewing window. Second, when the RANA button is pressed halfway, the mirror is lifted and the diaphragm or aperture on the lens opens according to the setting. At this time, the light meter on the camera works to measure the amount of light and displays it on the viewing window or LCD screen. Third, when the RANA button is fully pressed, the lens or shutter in front of the film or sensor will open and pass the light to expose the film or sensor behind it. The shutter speed opens and closes again according to the shutter speed we set. Then, when the shutter closes, the diaphragm or aperture and mirror return to the original position, the image has been recorded on the film or sensor. Next is the lens. The lens acts as an eye of the camera and works like a human eye. On compact cameras, the lens can't be replaced. In general. Meanwhile, on DSLR cameras, the lens can be easily replaced, even easier. The type of lens and its properties are determined by the length of the focal length, which is the length or distance from the front of the lens to the film. On digital cameras, it is better known as the image capture sensor. The longer the focal length, which is shown in millimeters, the narrower the viewing angle or angle of view, and the object looks closer. The lens is more capable of shooting objects with a long distance or tele. The types of lenses according to the focal length are fish eye lens, super wide angle lens, wide angle lens, normal lens, tele medium or medium tele lens, tele lens, super tele lens, tele reflex lens, vario lens, special lens, macro lens, and soft focus lens. Next is the angle of view. Angle of view is the viewing angle that varies according to the focal length. The shorter the lens, the wider the viewing angle. Conversely, the longer the lens, the narrower the viewing angle. We often find codes like this. Data like this is always found on the front of the lens. This text shows the lens focal length and the ability to open it. This code means, first, the zoom lens. With the shortest point or the widest angle of 18 mm, the longest point or tele is 55 mm. Second, when the lens is shortened or zoomed out a maximum of 18 mm, the maximum opening is 2.8. Third, when the lens is lengthened or zoomed in a maximum of 55 mm, the maximum opening is 5.6. This code means, a fixed 50 mm lens cannot be lengthened or shortened. The maximum opening of the lens is 1.4. Look at the front of your camera lens. How is your lens specification? And what does it mean? The next part is, let's take a picture. Let's simplify this picture into one thing, how to produce a sharp picture. As simple as that. Remember, all functions in the camera have been automated in such a way to achieve this goal. Let's see what basic conditions are needed to produce a sharp picture. The first is focus. The picture is called focus when the distance between the object and the lens accurately produces a sharp image reflection, not blurry. In the manual focus function or MF, we rotate the front of the lens to adjust the distance. Until the picture on the viewing window looks sharp. In the automatic focus function or AF, press the shutter button halfway. The lens will automatically focus on the object. The second is, no shaking. The picture will be sharp if the camera does not shake and the object does not shake. To avoid shaking, there are several ways to avoid shaking. First, use a tripod. Using a tripod does limit movement, but many conditions will be helpful if you use a tripod to help reduce shaking. Second, always find a good hand position when taking pictures. Hold your hand with a book, a table, or tighten your arm to your body when taking pictures by pointing directly from the viewing window. The point is, find a position where your hand and camera can stay still when the shutter button is pressed. Then the other is, use the shutter speed with high condition. Further about the shutter speed will be discussed in the exposure section. Finally, keep practicing to be more steady, calm but great in holding the camera and pressing the shutter button. Third, enough light and the right exposure. The picture will look clear if the light is enough. The exposure provided by the camera is also correct. If you use the automatic mode, you don't have to worry about the exposure because the camera will always adjust the best exposure setting for each photo. However, you have to know what is that exposure, so that the number codes on the display window when the shutter button is half-pressed will not be wasted. You will also be able to maximize your photos by increasing the exposure value. Reduce disappointment because of shaking photos, noise due to high ISO, and so on. Then, what is exposure? The next part is exposure. Portrait is painting with light. Light is what you use to form images and create beauty. Because, mastering basic photography is mastering light. Mastering light means mastering exposure. Simply, exposure is a lot of a little light that enters the camera. This is the heart of photography. Understand and master exposure until it becomes like your breath, where you don't have to think a lot when you do it. As long as your fingers automatically turn and press the button, play, and get the exposure you want, at that time, portrait becomes a very pleasant and natural activity. Exposure is a combination of three basic functions. First, Aperture. Inside the lens, there are thin holes that can be opened, closed, widened, and narrowed. This hole is called diaphragm, where light will enter through it. Well, Aperture is the opening of this diaphragm. Aperture is usually marked with letter F or capital A in the form of numbers, such as 1.4, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, and so on. The smaller the aperture, the wider the opening of the diaphragm. The wider the opening of the diaphragm, the more light will enter. Conversely, the larger the aperture, the narrower the opening. Likewise, the smaller the opening, the less light will enter. Second, Shutter Speed. Shutter speed is the time required for the shutter window to open and close again. When the shutter window opens, light will enter. Shutter speed is usually marked with capital S or capital T in the form of numbers in the form of seconds. 1 per 250, 1 per 125, 1 per 60, 1 per 30, 1 per 10, half, 1 second, 2 seconds, 3 seconds, and so on. The faster the shutter, the less light will enter. Conversely, the slower the shutter, the more light will enter. Third, ISO. ISO is also commonly referred to as Film Speed, which is a unit of film shutter speed against light or in digital photography, the shutter speed against light. The higher the value of ISO, the more shutter speed against light, which means with just a little light, the image can be recorded. Conversely, the lower the value of ISO, the less shutter speed against light, the more light can be created. These three basic functions are working together to adjust the amount of light that enters. Each function has its own consequences that must be considered when we take pictures. At slow shutter speeds, although a lot of light will enter, the image will be prone to shaking, especially for moving objects. The image will be blurred and will look frozen. At high shutter speeds, although a little light will enter, the image will be safe from shaking, moving objects will look frozen. At low shutter speeds, the image will have a sharp space or a wide depth of field, which means objects in the background or foreground will look sharp. Conversely, at wide aperture, the image will have a narrow sharp space, which means objects in the foreground and background will look blurred. The large aperture is the same as the small f, for example, f per 2.8. Then, the small aperture is the same as the large f, for example, f per 22. The image will be smoother, while at high ISO, the image will be rougher or grainy. Look at the following photos and the aperture data. The wider the aperture, the narrower the depth of field. The following are the exposure and effect of each. For aperture, if the value is small, the aperture will be larger, the light will enter more and the image will be brighter. If the depth of field is narrower, the background or foreground will be more blurred. If the value is large, the aperture will be smaller, the light will enter more and the image will be darker. If the depth of field is wider, the background or foreground will be sharper. Shutter speed, if the value is small, the shutter will be slower, the light will enter more and the image will be brighter. If the value is large, the shutter will be faster, the light will enter less and the image will be darker. Then, the risk of blur object because the shaking is lower, moving objects will be caught sharper or frozen. Finally, for ISO, if the value is small, the sensor will be less sharp, the light needed will be more. Then, it can be used to take pictures with slow shutter speed or small aperture for night photos with tripod, moving effects, etc. Then, the image will be smoother or grain. If the value is large, the sensor will use more light and the light needed will be less. Then, it can be used for moving objects, prevent blur shaking, take pictures without glare or take pictures at high speed in dark areas. When the shutter button is pressed halfway, the light meter will measure the amount of light. If you are in automatic mode, the exposure will automatically be set to zero or normal exposure and the camera will display shutter speed, aperture and ISO selected. For example, 1x60, 5.6, and ISO 200. If you are in manual mode, the exposure value will be displayed on the shutter window in the form of exposure value, negative, which means under exposure or lack of light, positive, which means over exposure or light excess, or no, which means normal. Make this exposure measurement as your combination to make a decision. If you are in automatic mode and the camera shows the exposure value at 1x10, 2.8, and ISO 100, shutter speed 1x10 including slow and prone shaking, consider using a tripod or raising the ISO. If you are in manual mode and the light meter shows under exposure as 1 stop at ISO 100, shutter speed 1x250, and aperture 8, then