The Macaw Kingdom - Documentary [Expedition Edition] HD

THE TROPICAL RAINFOREST For a long time we tried to understand it from ground level. However, we can only understand its secrets not from below, but from above. AMAZONIA Amazonia is home to the tallest trees in the world. Some of them grow more than 60 meters tall. Branches live the most colorful inhabitants of the forest, the macaws. Parrots are getting ready in the canopy. Nearly 20 species can be found here. From the smallest Amazon parrots to the compelling-sized macaws, all of them are grooming. They're preening themselves and arranging their plumage. The social event of the day will soon begin. Every morning, with clockwork precision, the great meeting at the clay lick takes place. Birds flock here from every corner of the forest. This clay lick is central to the macaws' social life. They communicate, have rivalries, and during this time they take in the minerals essential for their survival. THE TAMBULPATA RIVER A riverboat advances upstream against the strong current. Aboard is an international zoological expedition. The research leader is Dr. George Ola, a zoologist. The boat's crew is Peruvian. With them travel several American, Australian, and Hungarian participants in the expedition. Quite diverse company, just like the landscape that swishes past. There's not another place on the earth with so many clay licks. The mineral-rich, vegetation-free patches of earth are a magnet for representatives of highly diverse parrot species. Anybody can see that many parrots live here. But it's impossible to tell exactly how many. We cannot count the parrots, at least not in the usual way. Individuals of the same species all look the same. Even telling the genders apart visually is an impossibility. Binoculars will not help here. If researchers want to know how many parrots visit the clay licks and how the birds might be related, they have to come up with completely different methods. And so the researchers must become detectives. And their most important clues are feathers. The intact feathers are suitable for DNA analysis in the lab. The sooner the researchers get the results, the better, as the number of wild parrots is decreasing rapidly. Unfortunately, this trend has been constant for decades. The chicks hatched in the wild are captured and taken to the market illegally. Only a small proportion of the contraband will be seized at the border checks. The majority of these birds will never see their birthplace again. For the first time in history, the number of captive parrots seems to exceed the number of their wild contemporaries. Researchers have examined the location of the most endangered parrot species in the world. Their research demonstrates that the situation is particularly serious in South America. The last time a specimen of the Glaucus macaw was seen was in the last century, while the Cuban macaw was already extinct in the 19th century. In such a tense situation, when species survival is at stake, it's very important to know exactly how many of the birds remain in the wild. The illegal animal trade is only one of the most dangerous factors. Habitat loss and deforestation pose at least as great a threat. There's no deforestation or hunting on the upper reaches of the Tambopata River. The boat of the zoological expedition is about to land and its passengers will disembark. The researchers took to the waves at the port of Puerto Maldonado three days ago. Since then, they have navigated 70 river kilometers upstream. The Tambopata Research Center sits along the edge of a national park, completely isolated from civilization. The center is the last permanent human facility along the river. Beyond it lies nothing but untouched wilderness. This is the kingdom of macaws. There's no other place on Earth where one can study them so closely. Macaws are watching vigilantly everywhere. They have a good reason. The Tambopata Research Center is famous for its tasty cuisine. The staff would appreciate if the birds settled for natural food, but there's nothing that can keep the macaws away from the table. In the lowland tropical rainforest, plant and animal species have been living together for millions of years. Close relationships have been formed among them. The animals find food and shelter in the canopy. But what do the trees receive in exchange? It's a complicated question, and for the answer, one has to start with the precise identification of the plants. The inhabitants of the rainforest, however, do not give away their identities so easily. Shapes of leaves, patterns on bark, or the scent of fibers can offer some direction in the maze of species identification. After identification, each of the plants in the research area receives an individual tag, from the smallest seedlings to the tallest tree giants. And that is not all. The seeds falling from above are collected with nets. From the data derived from the 196 seed traps below the 2,400 trees, the researchers come to an interesting conclusion. In forests where there's no hunting, the vegetation is equally diverse, on top as it is on the ground. Seeds travel far, the foliage is various. In forests where mankind has exterminated the large herbivores, the change is imperceptible in the canopy, but the undergrowth composition is quite different. Seeds don't travel so far anymore, and seedlings clump together under the mother plant. Within a few decades, the lack of herbivores completely transforms the vegetation of the rainforest. Without arboreal herbivorous animals, the vegetation loses diversity. But exactly who lives up there in the canopy? What species, and how many individuals? These are questions that cannot be answered from below. The canopy is a special, secluded world. For humans, it's not a particularly welcoming place. Under such circumstances, the researcher had better get the job done quickly. The researcher leaves some sentinels behind and withdraws. Camera traps. Automatic devices that turn on immediately as they detect some movement. And there's no shortage of motion in the rainforest. Cameras are located at regular distances. Hundreds of them now operate continuously at the study site. This is the first comprehensive camera trap research at canopy level in the world, from which researchers can gain an accurate picture of the rainforest's animal kingdom. The intelligence of macaws is excellent. It's hard to outsmart them. They live aloft. Their eyesight and hearing are excellent. Capturing them alive is almost impossible. For a long time, taking a genetic sample from a wild living macaw was not even considered an option. Then came an idea fit for a detective story. Could it be possible to get the precious DNA without disturbing the birds? A feather. At the beginning of its development, it's permeated by blood vessels. A relic of the vessels is a little blood inclusion, captured in the quill of the fully developed feather. If the researchers are right, there will be enough blood available for DNA extraction. It works. From the laboratory analyses, we now know that the clalics of Tambopata are visited by hundreds of macaws, while the full population approaches a thousand birds. We've also learned that individuals visiting the same clalic are closely related. In the lowland rainforest, nothing can hinder their movement and thus their reproduction. But what about in the Andes region? Is it possible that the valleys at the foothills of the mountain hide a distinct, isolated population? There's only one way to answer this question. One must venture there. If the water level of the Kandamo River does not rise, departure would be suicidal. At least there's time for maintenance. Up among the foothills is no place for mistakes. The researchers keep watch on an artificial nest. Inside is a chick waiting for its parents. The plan is to place a satellite transmitter on the neck of the adult male. But first they have to capture him somehow. So far, everything goes as planned. Get the collar back, replace it with a new collar, so everybody go to your points. George, you'll pull the trap closed, I'll be back there and I'll let you know by radio. You're going to need a radio, George. Researchers and veterinarians work together as a team. The health examinations and transmitter placing are going fast. A few more minutes and the bird is free again. The satellite transmitter on the macaw will now supply continuous data. The wild animals around the Tambalpata Research Centre are unknowingly full-time participants in all kinds of scientific research. Day and night as well. The automatic camera traps are constantly collecting footage. The jungle never sleeps. In the Peruvian region of the Amazonia, the rainy season begins in November. The heavens open and the rain falls and falls for hours. The huge amount of rainfall increases the river's water level by metres. If the researchers calculated well, the Candamo River will be navigable, but only for a while. More people have set foot on the moon than in the Candamo Valley. Candamo was never inhabited by indigenous peoples. It's the last corner of Amazonia untouched by humans. There was a major expedition there at the end of the last century. The documentary made of the trip has since become a cult movie in Peru. The Candamo Valley is a mythical place. Local people see it as a magic place where anything can happen. The flow of the Candamo River is brisk and unpredictable. Navigation is very risky. Crew members take the proper precautionary measures. Two vital pieces of equipment that they wouldn't want to leave at home. A life jacket and their optimism. Looking at the riverway, they will need both. From this moment, the expedition can only count on itself. Ahead is nothing but the untouched Amazonian rainforest. Yet, at the foothills of the Andes, they must say goodbye to the Tambopata River and continue on a narrower tributary. This is the plan, but the reality is a little different. After only a few river kilometres comes the first obstacle. This section of the Tambopata is so broad that the river is not even half a metre deep. The engine must be pulled out of the water so that it does not bottom out. Until now, the boat carried the crew, but now the tables are turned. After finding deeper water, they continue again at full speed. The expedition pass the first test, and right away comes the next one. The foothills of the Andes appear. After a few hours, the mountain range is almost within reach. Then the riverboat changes direction and arrives at a tributary in a canyon leading to Kandamu. This is a raging mountain river, unpredictable and unrestrainable. Soon comes the section where the expedition of the last century encountered bad luck. It's like navigating upstream on a waterfall. They make it through. The zoological expedition is working itself further and further up into the river-caved valley. Here there's not a single human being apart from the team. On the riverbank appears the top predator of the region, a jaguar. The captain and his assistant, who steer the boat, come from the closest local community, from the Infierno tribe. But these rivers are unknown even to them. They insist that the campsite should be set far away from the river in the forest. If there's rain in the mountains, the river can swell within a few hours. The expedition pitches tents under the trees in the foothills. They're past the first part of the journey, but they all know well, breakers ahead. The local crew members were right. Next morning, the river is almost unrecognizable. The water level indeed rose meters. Yesterday's riverbank is completely submerged. The current is stronger than ever. A few hours later, the colour of the Kandamo river changes. The clay soil of the tropical rainforest colours the water. The riverboat continues on this red carpet. But comfortable travelling soon comes to an end. The next set of rapids. What's more, a huge driftwood now blocks their path. They cannot pass around the trunk. They're stuck. The equipment and the week's worth of supplies seriously burden the boat. It's running too deep. They already needed luck to get to this point, but the research site is further upstream. They have to get going again somehow. In the rainforest, if there's a problem, the expedition cannot count on anybody. The captain is confident, and not only at guiding the boat. One comes face to face with many types of problems in the rainforest. But there are only a few that cannot be solved with a good machete. It's been decades since the last expedition ventured into this landscape. They were shipwrecked due to the swift river. The engine was torn away. The propeller broke. But again, the machete helped. The crew carved a new propeller from the trunk of a hardwood tree. It doesn't work. You turn it, but it doesn't push. You have to make the same model as the propeller. And if it doesn't work, you put your foot on the propeller. The machete can do miracles in experienced hands. It was like this a long time ago, and so it is today. In tense situations, the differences between the crew members wash away. There are no ranks or unnecessary politenesses. The research assistant pulls together with the professor and the boatman. They move forward inch by inch. The expedition was well-timed. Thanks to the relatively good water level, the machete and, of course, good luck, they make it through. They enter the research site. This is the Kandamo Basin, the last uninhabited wilderness. The crew sets up their second camp even further from the river's edge. From now on, this is their research base. Small streams join the Kandamo River. A black caiman rests at the bottom of a small waterfall. The stream water is much clearer than the river. The water is carefully boiled before usage. Today's menu? Freshly caught fruit-eating piranha with Hungarian bouillon and plantain. But there is no time to enjoy the dinner calmly. Tigre say the local members of the crew. That's a jaguar. Hardly a stone's throw from the tents. It takes a while for it to get used to the spotlight. Then, to everyone's surprise, it comes forward towards the group. An adult female jaguar without the slightest sign of fear. Judging by her curiosity, she's probably never seen a human being before. About 10 meters from the camp, she stops. She contemplates quietly for a time. Then she has enough of the flashlights and at an easy pace saunters back into the woods. The campers are relieved. It wouldn't have pleased them if the big cat wanted to get any closer. It's clear from the behavior of wild animals that humans have never hunted in Kandamo. Not even woodcutters happen to come hereabouts. That's why this forest is populated by tree giants suitable for nesting. A red and green macaw. The researchers have meticulously scanned over the trees on the riverbank. Apparently the nest is occupied and a hatchling might be inside. The macaws are among the most intelligent parrot species. They're not afraid of the visitors, but they're not particularly happy either. In the last days, the expedition has struggled upstream hundreds of meters in elevation. But the macaw nest is located even higher. About 40 meters higher. The pair chose a nest that's positioned wisely close to a wasp's nest. The irritable neighbors scare off most of the potential predators. The expedition has come this far. They can't retreat just because of a wasp's nest. In 40 degrees Celsius and about 100% humidity, it's quite a testing experience to climb while covered in cloth up to the top of one's head. A few more meters to find out. Is the nest really inhabited? It was worth it. There is a chick inside. The red and green macaws usually lay two to three eggs, of which one or at most two will fly. In this nest, there's only one chick developing. The researchers take a blood sample for DNA analysis. One single quick and accurate puncture and there we go. The chick doesn't even notice much of this intervention. As if nothing had happened, it continues to look around. The red and green macaw is one of the largest parrots. Adults can weigh almost two kilos. The chick is also a good weight. It's clear that the parents are devoted. The zoological expedition has reached its goal. The research expedition repeated these examinations at many other nests. When they reached the necessary sample size, the expedition met its purpose. It was more than a week ago that the expedition left the Tambopata Research Centre and headed toward the Kandamu Valley. Their stocks are depleted and the crew is tired. They have to leave. Nowadays it's not raining much and so the water level of the Kandamu River is low. They might not get past the rapids. At least not at the first run. Rock by rock, the crew clears the boat's way. A Sisyphean strategy, but it's working. The water immediately finds its way through the newly created channels and the boat moves ahead. They've hardly made it through one of the rapids and here comes the next. The stream pushes the boat forward with irresistible power. They go at full speed, risking the equipment and the precious samples. All or nothing. The Kandamu let them out this time. From here it's all clear sailing. The export of DNA samples is regulated by strict laws. That is why the first analyses take place in the capital Lima. And the results confirm the hypothesis of the researchers. The Makors living in Kandamu do not mingle with their lowland relatives. The two populations are separated from one another. But what could be the cause of this isolation? According to the data of the Carnegie Airborne Observatory, the mountain ranges are the reason that populations don't mix. The Airborne Observatory analyses the rainforest with the help of remote sensors. It registers the exact geographic features and measures the heights of trees, the water content of the vegetation and the biodiversity. But lately there are more and more regions with nothing to measure. Illegal gold mining. A serious problem throughout Amazonia and it doesn't spare Peru either. The satellite images also show the vast areas of rainforest the gold miners have erased from the surface of the planet in the last decades. The gold is isolated from the sediments of the rivers using mercury. And the heavy metal induces irreversible damage to the environment. The result, a moon-like landscape as far as the eye can reach. The crew of the Kandamu expedition of the 1990s had a cameraman who captured the entire journey. Due to this archived footage, we know how this untouched wilderness almost disappeared for good. The investigators of an oil company arrived in the Kandamu basin. According to the results of the investigation, beneath this rainforest are valuable oil reserves. However, the film made of the first Kandamu expedition convinced both the public and the decision makers. The region, so rich in natural treasures, was declared protected. Decades ago, it was a film of the rainforest that helped to protect the Kandamu basin from becoming an oil field. Now, in the 21st century, it may come down to film footage again. Next to the Tambopata Research Center, a drone rises up into the air. This tiny technical device resulted in the creation of a new scientific discipline. This is aerial botany. One can investigate the vegetation of much larger areas from a bird's eye view than from the ground. And the larger sampling site provides more reliable data. Hundreds of volunteers from all over the world help in the analysis of the footage derived from the aerial botany. And while watching the footage, they become committed once and for all to the protection of the rainforest. The scientific results, the ecotourism and the nature conservation together protect the Peruvian rainforest from senseless destruction. Here, the rainforest still stands in its original splendor. And among the trees, evolution takes place imperceptibly but continuously. As shown by this study on the macaws, the unique terrain conditions favor the segregation of populations. And so the emergence of subspecies and with time species. From this perspective, the Kandamu is a cradle for many. The Kandamu basin has at least one other line of defense. For millions of years, like a castle wall, the Andes have protected the last untouched rainforest. The kingdom of macaws.