Practical Tips for Making Friction Fires

Make It Primitive
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2 Video Views·Oct 26, 2024
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periods of history are often defined by
the technological advancements of the
particular era
probably the most significant and
influential of all these technologies
was the ability to create and control
fire a burning campfire eventually led
to rockets going into outer space
and the energy that gives life to the
screen you're looking at right now
but making fire the primitive way is no
easy task for today's highly processed
and refined human
even for me the quest to make fire has
been a long and frustrating road
but after a lot of attempts and many
many failures
and with some good instruction from
expert fire makers
i finally have learned enough to be
quite proficient at this craft
now i want to share some tips i've
learned and help you avoid my many
mistakes
i've brought with me a small collection
of fire making tools
most of these pieces are spindles of
different types of wood that i've
experimented with
and all of these spindles have produced
an ember in the past
inside this yucca container i have a few
stones one of which i use is the bearing
block for the bow drill
i found this stone on a beach and it
already had this divot i'm going to
begin with the bow drill method
i believe that the bow drill is the
easiest way to create friction fire
it isn't primitive because it is quite
mechanical but the bow drill is a good
way to practice with different materials
and to learn how to make an effective
notch first i'm going to lay out all my
materials
this bow is made of a fairly strong
branch that is naturally curved
i'm using a thin strip of buckskin as
the cord
but strong cordage could be used as well
i suggest using
paracord to practice because it is
nearly indestructible
using natural cordage is a little
challenging because the heat from the
friction tends to burn and break the
cordage
for the hearth board i have a piece of
wood of medium hardness that i found in
the desert
i don't know what kind of wood it is
though with this style of hearthboard i
need something to catch the ember so i'm
placing a thin piece of yucca stock
under the hole
now this hearthboard has obviously been
used several times and i can still
use one of the holes that was previously
drilled
i'm making sure that the strip of
buckskin is securely tied to one end of
the bow
then i select a spindle and this spindle
is then wrapped with the buck skin strap
once near the blunt end in this case the
wood is a branch from a juniper tree
i pulled the other end of the cord
fairly tight and then secure it by
wrapping it several times around the end
i want it to be tight enough to securely
hold the spindle but not so tight that
it won't spin
then the stone bearing block will be
placed on the pointed end of the spindle
notice that the spindle is thicker at
the blunt end which is where the
friction of the drilling will occur
i place the heel of my foot on the
hearth board next to the hole i'm going
to drill
this allows me to press my left hand
against my leg to help keep the spindle
steady
with the blunt end of the spindle placed
in the hole i then slowly begin to drill
by moving the bow back and forth
in the beginning i use very little
pressure and just do slow
smooth strokes to build up a pile of
fine dust
notice how my forearm is pressed against
my leg to help keep the spindle steady
being in a comfortable position that
allows you to press down on the spindle
is very important for success in the
beginning notice the size of the opening
in the notch
when i was first learning this method i
always made the notch too narrow
the problem with a narrow notch is that
the dust doesn't fall out and accumulate
into a pile
it is very important to make the opening
of the notch large enough for
the powder to pile up next to the hole
slowly i begin to increase the speed and
a little smoke can now be seen
now i also begin to add more pressure on
the top of the spindle
when the pile of dust is above the
bottom of the spindle and more smoke is
being produced
then i increase the speed and apply even
more pressure on the bearing stone
from my experience the bottom of the
spindle must be touching the pile of
powder in order to ignite it
and that is an ember produced with the
bow drill using juniper as the spindle
depending on the type of wood size of
the ember and the amount of wind
an ember could potentially burn for
several minutes so there is no rush to
transfer it into the tinder bundle
for this demonstration i'm going to use
a technique that my friend chad keel
taught me to propagate an ember by
transferring the heat to a piece of
punky wood like this soft yucca stock
material
you can create several embers from one
and this is a good way to have a backup
in case the first ember burns out too
soon
the real key to successful friction fire
with the bow drill method is to
understand the basic principles and then
practice
practice and practice it is especially
important to practice with a variety of
materials
my very first ember was produced with a
flannel bush spindle on a poplar
hearthboard several years ago
now i'm going to put away the bowdrill
and i'm going to attempt the much more
difficult hand drill
after i learned the bow drill method i
only practiced the hand drill on a few
occasions and found it to be just so
difficult
i didn't think i would ever learn but
then i was inspired when i attended a
survival skills workshop called
nature reconnection led by chad kio and
riza alabakshi
it was the first time that i watched
someone do it live right in front of me
and then i tried it while chad coached
me and surely enough
i produced my first ember with a hand
drill
since then i've successfully done it
over and over many times and with a
variety of different materials
nonetheless with the hand drill you
don't have the mechanical advantage that
the bow drill gives you so the selection
of materials is more important
especially when first learning for the
hearth board i'm using a flower stock of
a plant called parinolina
which is a low density wood that
produces good powder
the spindle is a long fairly straight
branch but i'm not sure what kind it is
the advantage of the hand drill is that
you only need two pieces of wood and it
doesn't require any assembly
unlike the bow drill which is composed
of several mechanical pieces that must
all function properly to be successful
i'm placing my knees on the ends of the
heartboard which actually feels awkward
to me
so i'm not sure i'll be successful but
i'll try
just like with the bow drill i start
slow and just build up a pile of dust at
first the problem with this posture for
me is that i'm not able to lean my body
weight into the spindle for pressure
i also can't roll the spindle very far
down while in this position
so
you can see that the stick is wobbling a
little at the top this is because it
isn't perfectly straight and
it is quite long a shorter stick would
be easier to use
nonetheless i am able to produce some
smoke already
towards the end when you really need to
increase the speed of the rotation
this is when the mechanical advantage of
the bow drill is apparent
unfortunately my efforts failed in this
attempt
there are big man-eating flies out here
in this desert and one just bit me
it's time to start over with a new heart
board
collected this dry flower stalk from a
perinolina plant and now i'm going to
use stones to cut and shape it to
prepare it for making fire
any stone with an acute edge will work
to cut this material
so
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as you can see this piece is twice as
long as the other hearthboard
now i want to flatten the top and bottom
uh
now i am carving a shallow hole to place
the spindle
by performing the hand drill i can make
the hole deeper
so
now i'm carving a v-shaped notch that
will open up the hole
the size of the notch is really
important too small and the powder won't
fall out
too big and even the spindle will fall
out
it's crucial to pay close attention to
the size of the notch
a good rule is to make the notch about
the same width as the hole
and cut straight lines that meet just
before the center of the hole
so
just about any flat material will work
to receive an ember
you can see how the powder freely falls
and collects below
i'm having some trouble with the spindle
not spinning smoothly
it seems to happen when i stop and
restart after changing the camera angles
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the problem could also be that i'm not
comfortable in this position
uh
this stick is a little crooked and that
may also be causing a problem
this mule fat stick appears to be
straighter
mule fat is a great material for
friction fires because it has a pythi
core
that ignites easier than harder woods
now the problem is that i've already
drilled all the way through the hearth
board
this is when frustration can easily take
over but it's important to realize that
there
is a way i just have to try a different
approach and find the way
so now i'm preparing another hole and
notch
okay now i'm ready for a third attempt
at the hand drill
i'm still having trouble with the
spindle not spinning smoothly
however i'm using a posture that is more
comfortable and allows me to press my
body weight down on the spindle as i'm
drilling
i'm going to try a third piece of wood
as a spindle first i just sand away the
charred end
i think that this is another piece of
mule fat but it's a shorter stick and
that gives me more control
i've already got a nice pile of dust and
it is spinning well
you can even hear the sound of dust
forming from the friction
clumps of powder freely pour out and now
the spindle is below the top of the pile
powder
so it's time to drill faster and create
a hot ember
the ember is already smoking hot and
this is a successful hand drill
i could just dump the ember into a
bundle of tinder but i really like
transferring the amber to the spongy
yucca stock material first
once the ember is enclosed in the tinder
bundle there is no hurry to create fire
it's good to wait and allow the heat to
expand and then gently blow on it to
summon the fire
and most importantly please be very
careful when you practice making fires
and be sure not to allow embers or
flames to ignite surrounding vegetation
especially in very dry areas like this
i hope this instructional video has been
useful and helps you to be successful
with friction fires
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