Breaking Down An Icon: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso | MR PORTER

What began as an eccentric solution to a rather niche problem is now among the most recognisable watch designs in the world and the signature product for one of Switzerland's most respected watch brands. As the story has it, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has its origins in 1930s colonial India, where polo-playing British officers desired a watch they could wear mid-chucker without the fear of the dial getting smashed. Mr Jacques David LeCoultre obliged, creating a rectangular watch with a face that could flip over, hiding the glass from harm. It's hard to explain just how unusual this is. Jaeger-LeCoultre has a reputation for being the watchmaker's watchmaker, for the Maison's standout watch designed to be something so offbeat is therefore remarkable and says a lot about the characterful appeal of this timepiece. Edward VIII wore a Reverso, as did several other European monarchs of the age. Jay-Z and Leonardo DiCaprio both wear one. While on screen, this watch has graced the wrists of characters such as Don Draper. This Reverso belonged to World War II General Douglas MacArthur. Today there are dozens of different Reverso models in a whole host of sizes, colours and materials, but as you can see when putting modern and vintage pieces side by side, its key traits have remained consistent. Firstly, the Reverso mechanism itself, which hasn't changed since 1931. Push the case all the way to one side, then flip it over and snap it back into position to find a solid steel back. The perfect canvas for personalised engravings. Take a look at General MacArthur's watch. He had the back engraved with his initials in this unique modernist style. It's almost like a personal logo. It's this type of Reverso that remains true to the original watch's purpose, even if that purpose is barely, if ever, put to use in the modern day. A more contemporary version of the Reverso has a secondary dial, able to tell the time in another time zone, and also give you an easy switch to a very different look. These watches, known as duo-face models, really make the most of the Reverso's trademark case, assuming you don't need to protect the dial from a stray polo mallet. The back dial is intended to be used for travelling, but can just as easily be a way to convert a business-like watch to something more suited to a formal evening. The Reverso's angular lines have always worked well with a well-pressed cuff and dinner jacket. There's more to this watch than just a rectangular shape, however. The Reverso's charm lies in its Art Deco detailing. Every model has these three fluted lines across the top and bottom, known as gadroons, and the dials combine textured geometric patterns with simple hour markers and finely polished hands. Ironically for a Maison with such a reputation as a maker of great watch movements, the appeal of the Reverso has never depended on the mechanics underneath. It goes without saying, though, that the calibres that power every Reverso are made in-house, and like every other movement Jaeger-LeCoultre produces, are subjected to a 1,000-hour programme of quality control testing. In the 1930s, automatic movements had yet to become mainstream, so the original Reverso was only available with a hand-wound movement. Today, automatic Reversos are available too. Which should you choose? While the automatic is undeniably more convenient, the process of winding the watch only adds to the Reverso's character as a highly tactile timepiece. It's an icon to be held, manipulated and played with, even if that's more likely to be in the Royal Box than on the polo field.