Why Is The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso a Masterpiece?

When we think of a rectangular watch, one piece that probably comes to mind is the Cartier Tank. But another piece, that I'm sure many of us could recognize just from its silhouette, is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. And just to get the pronunciation right for everyone who struggled, me included, again it is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Today the piece is one of the most collectively appreciated watches in the community. It's not just because of its styling, but the character of the watch itself has managed to transcend the period when it was first made in the 30s, and has now reached a point where it is one of the most loved contemporary watches of our time. Why is that? What has helped perpetuate the watch's design? The answer is multi-layered, and one well worth investigating. Jaeger-LeCoultre is no stranger to watchmaking, and since this is one of the first videos I'm creating that is dedicated to their pieces, I'll outrightly say that they are the most underrated watchmakers in the world. What gives them an edge over the conventional pieces on offer, is that the JLC is very much a watch enthusiast's watch. Walk into a room wearing a JLC, and chances are any enthusiast will stop and talk to you, or at least acknowledge that you have a fair understanding of watches, and especially of what you are wearing. That is such a powerful statement that many other names cannot command, and that, in part, is the reason why a watch like the Reverso is appreciated by the majority. There is an innate reverence that we have for such watches that are characters all to themselves, that are subtle, but are also capable of commanding a presence. Thanks to platforms like these and influences, the JLC Reverso has become a go-to dress watch for many, and it's very easy to understand why. The story of its origins. No, it wasn't a watch that took to the skies first, or the design evolved from necessity because of a need on the battlefield. Most pieces we discuss generally originated from a call to action, but the origins of the Reverso case has to be one of the most high-brow requirements for any watch. A group of polo players requested a dealer to source or make them a watch that could withstand the harshness of the game. César Lattre, the dealer, sent this information to Jacques-David Lecoute, and the information was then handed down to René-Alfred Chauvin. He was an engineer who had helped create watches for the First World War, and had a good understanding about the conventional practices of creating watches with cages around their dials. See more information about that in the video linked in the corner of the screen now. In a stroke of genius, he decided to create a case that would allow the watch head to reverse completely, but the mechanism of how the head revolved was what really helped push the watch into production. Other lines had made mechanisms before and since, but the simple mechanism allowed the watch head to swivel like a door and slot into place, and I would argue that this construction method alone is what has kept the watch so relevant. Even today, the technology is unrivaled, and this blend of function with a formal dress watch allowed the Reverso to have a completely new position that was popularized in other sporting activities, worn by others who praised it. Some have said that the Reverso is considered to be the first luxury sports watch. That is debatable, though it can undoubtedly be considered a sports watch. What can be said as well is that it is a watch that has managed to surpass many of its competitors as a more durable dress watch, and over the years the design of the piece has remained largely the same. It's down to the simplicity of the case. Apart from the three horizontal steps on both ends of the case, there is very little to communicate the watch's age. The Art Deco period emphasized the principle of streamlining in the product design sector, and this watch is a clear example of those principles. Just the case shape of the watch is one such example, but the integration of the lugs and how they slope at an angle towards the strap on either side also notice that even though this watch, with its hard angular case shape, communicates visually as something quite aggressive in its styling, practically every part of the watch has been rounded off. And of course, because it is such a simple looking watch, with a modern mechanism that reverses the case, also a very charming feature of the watch, with an almost sculptured and streamlined form, all of these attributes make the piece look as modern now as it did when it was first introduced. It is a work of art. There is nothing like it out there. The range of Reversos on offer is vast. Where the line began as a measly time-telling device, the complications that they now can house, frankly, it's ridiculous. And I mean that in the nicest way possible. Everything from the simple classic all the way to duo faces, tourbillons and minute repeaters. How the name has been able to create such a vast and interesting line of watches in the family is worth looking into, and the design approaches taken with the line are all weird and wonderful. First, there have been a few developments since the introduction of the Reverso in the 60s. One of the most pivotal improvements, sapphire crystals. Now technically, the development of the crystal renders the concept of a reversing case moot. Since the glass is extremely resilient to daily scuffs and scratches, but on the flip side, sometimes puns can be good, sapphire glass can still shatter. And if the wearer views the watch in a game of polo, say, the face still could get easily damaged with a direct blow. So the Reverso case, after all this time, still is both interesting and a practical addition. The classic Reverso has managed to stay true to its roots. There are many choices in sizes, but the character of the watch is exactly in line with its original counterpart. The easiest way to identify the piece is by the numerals on the dial. Very simple, very deco. The typeface keeps the appearance modern. And when compared against the Cartier Tank, the numerals are what allows the Reverso to appear more contemporary. But it's the details on the dial that keeps your attention. The minute track is in the centre of the dial, allowing for the hour hand to almost touch it, while the minute track extends to the numerals. The hands are heat blued and paired with subtle brushing on the outside surfaces of the dial and the guilloché, paired then with the horizontal steps on the case. All of these approaches are extremely simple, but makes the experience of wearing the watch like this all the more engaging. The details are small, but add to the presence. Let's not forget that many of these pieces are automatic, housing an extremely well made movement. Even with the baseline pieces, some would even say that they are calibres that very much are in line with haute horology. As we move further up the line, you'll notice that there is no question that these movements are in fact haute horology. We also see models with small seconds as sub-dials. It does keep the watch's symmetry, but personally, the cleanest face option has more of a draw. Without a doubt, the numerals on the dial is what makes the Reverso the more unique watch. But the symmetry of the numerals could be an irritant for the more pedantic watch owners. Seeing the placement of 1 across from the 11 and 2 across from the 10, it is still a gorgeous piece. And one piece that has managed to balance the numeral symmetry better is the Reverso Grand. An interesting point is that the numeral typeface on these pieces are slightly serifed. It keeps an 8-day power reserve, can incorporate a date complication, offset running seconds, and is considered a favourite on this platform. As a preference, the Reverso design that appeals to me, the pedantic type more, is the tribute to 1931. A watch like this, with such a simplistic styling, with batons that pair well with the sword-styled hands, a black dial that matches a strap, feels simple and refined. It has all the charms of the Reverso, while being a more versatile wearing watch, that would offer a lot more options for strap changing. There are many other options to choose from in the tribute line, with dials ranging from blue to green to maroon. Generally, when we refer to Reversos with batons, the complications begin to get serious. Very serious. Many of these pieces incorporate duo faces. Essentially, two completely different dials that offer different complications on each side. It is very much the case that when you buy one of these watches, you are buying two. The dials and faces contrast in colours, black and white, blue and silver, charcoals, slate greys, and in these references we find second time zones, day and night indicators, moon phases, power reserves, complete calendars. The ability of having two watch faces allows for the opportunity of introducing five or more complications that are shared between the two dials, and this is where the modern Reverso really shines. The concept of taking a simple format, but making it reach further and further into the realms of horology. JLC is known as a family to always push for more, and this line in particular shows a clear example of the watch's evolution and willingness to transform. Moving up to the top tiers, we start seeing skeletonized movements and tourbillons. True high horology, with a terrific blend of modern and classical design motifs. And this is the penultimate Reverso. Watches with tourbillons can be hit and miss, but there is something very charming about this tier of complication in the Reverso. The rectangular casing with the rounded cage feels contained. Where some might find it conflicting to pair a sharp case with a circular cutout aesthetic, it manages to blend extremely well with the watch's build and actually looks purposeful. The tribute tourbillon duo face is an example that truly is of the highest caliber. From a visual standpoint, from a stylistic standpoint, this piece is pure art. Now, like most art, there are very few of us who can afford a watch that costs the same as a house. But again, like art, we can admire just how this watch, in my eyes, is the epitome of spare, but also masterful execution. Whether it's down to the detailing of the movement, the finishing, the polishing patterns on the case, it takes the simple tribute but manages to add an entirely new dimension to its aesthetic. Another knockout of the line is the tribute calendar. Again, it is down to symmetry, the placement of the windows, the balance of the sub-dial at the 6, and there are myriads of other pieces with an array of complications which I'm sure you've seen throughout the presentation. But the true uniqueness with the Reverso line is that the family has moved these pieces into virtually every category, from simple to massively complicated, while still retaining the iconic form that has been the foundation for over 70 years. And what is more interesting is that even if you cannot afford the highly complicated pieces like the 8-day power reserves, the duo faces, and instead opt for a simple tribute to 1931 or a classic, you don't feel hard done by it in the slightest. It's not like you'll feel regretful that you didn't take the watch that is one level higher, like what can be the case with other notable watch brands. There's no thought in the back of your mind that you're being given a small piece of the cake without icing. A watch that has been stripped down to the bare minimum that leaves you wanting for more. Even in its simplest, most basic state, this watch is just terrific. A complete package, regardless of its complication. Many additions have been added, some true artworks with hand-painted enameling. Tribute pieces to the likes of Vincent van Gogh. So my earlier statement about art rings truly with these watches in many ways, and even if they are polarizing for some, they need to be appreciated nonetheless. Now to the big question, the designer question. Does a watch with a rectangular case work? Does it have an advantage over a rounded case? Aesthetically speaking, even going so far as practically speaking, the answer is yes. From a visual standpoint, just looking at the integration between the strap and the elongated rectangular case, it appears very natural in form. In fact, has a much more natural appearance than a rounded case if you think about it. There aren't any breaks between the leather and the metal. It consists of a near seamless rectangular length. There is a grace to the form of the watch, and appears, on first impressions at least, to be a more wearable item for the wrist. On the flip side of that, a rectangular case is what can date the watch. The styling is very much in line with a different time period, but again the emphasis needs to be made that, because of its simplicity, it keeps the deco motifs on the down-low, and manages to segue itself neatly into the modern era. Another disadvantage with a rectangular case is the dial architecture. It is difficult to make the watch as legible as a rounded dial without having a good understanding about proportions, balance, precedence between hands and numerals, and seeing just the sheer array of different designs and styles that these pieces use, they are all a testament to the thought and experimentation behind the brand. So, we have seen the many design elements, a series of evolutions to the line, and the many tiers that are on offer. But answering the question, why is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso loved by the community? So loved, so admired and appreciated. It still looks incredibly modern, yes, but really, the truth is that it is down to relevancy. We know that dress watches aren't as popular as they used to be. There does seem to be a return to dress watches by many of the community, but the majority are more interested in sports pieces. But what the Reverso has managed to do is situate itself in a position where it can act and perform as both a dress watch and a sports watch. It is completely unique and presents an aesthetic that makes it a very attractive dress watch. Not a typical circular dial with a circular case, but a rectangle with filleted edges, a brilliantly simple external mechanism that can be operated with one hand, allowing it to completely rotate and lock in like the door of a modern saloon. And returning to relevancy, this constant evolution, this willingness to expand and create such diversity in a single line, has allowed their pieces to continually stay relevant, even in a marketplace that is governed largely by sports watches for the most part. It is more than just a fashion accessory then. I would argue that there isn't a watch on the market today that is able to still keep every ounce of its art deco styling like the Reverso does and still remain as appealing to the masses as it did over 70 years ago. And if not anything else, the simple act of being able to completely change or hide the watch face without thinking about it or taking it off with one hand is one hell of a conversation starter. It has the history, it has the tactility, the form unlike any other. Amidst the Datejusts, the steel sports watches, the simple dress pieces or even chronographs or watches with higher complications, no watch can compete with the Reverso when it comes down to its age-old unique styling or its venerable party trick.