Different ways to Bonsai Hinoki

So today we are going to show you a dual performance, Palma Priya and myself, working on these Hinoki cypress. The Hinoki is one of our very popular lines that we sell and these Hinoki cypress are nice and bushy and we're going to convert it into something that looks more like a bonsai. Hinoki, I'm just thinking of the name, in Japanese the word Ki, K-I, means tree. So it's probably Hinotree, Hinoki, like Keyaki is Japanese grey bark elm. So Ki means tree. So I suddenly thought, yeah, why is it called Hinoki? So that's a Japanese word. So let's take one of these and you see how healthy the root is. So Robert is going to work on one and I'm going to work on one and we will not film the two things together because we're going to show how each person approaches a project in their own way. So I'll leave Padma Priya to speak his mind, to say what he's thinking and what he's doing. So fire away. Okay, so first thing I'm going to do is just start teasing out some of this root to try and get a view. I'm also looking to remove any weed that I see whilst I'm doing it. So if I see any bits of weed, try and get as much of that weed root out as I can whilst I'm teasing out. I always find it easier if you rake towards you. As I understand it in Japanese bonsai, the most desirable root structure is one where all of the roots come out radially from the trunk and they're spaced equally. So if you rake towards you and turn the tree, then any roots that you hit, you're going to be raking out into that radial pattern. If you was to go on this side and pull here, anything here, you're wrapping around the tree. So for me, I turn the tree and then pull towards myself. So as these roots fatten up in future years, they will be in the right position for that radial root. You can see now I've freed up an area of trunk. So what we're going to try and do is make this less of a bush and more of a tree. And to do that, we need to create a trunk line. So there's still some of these roots that are wrapping around the tree. So this is an opportunity to move them around and place them into the position that I'm going to want them to be in in the future. So now I'm just going to spin the tree and start looking to see if there's an obvious front. And I think I can see in here that that makes a nice lower branch there. So to make the most of that, the front would probably need to be somewhere about here. So what I'm going to do next is start to clear through some of this foliage and remove any dead foliage, obviously, but also I want to remove some of the early growth on the branch to try and create some branch structure. So particularly crutch growth or crotch growth, I'm not quite sure what the word is, but just pinch out anything that's growing between two branches. We can't quite see that on the camera, so you can see I've now freed up maybe an inch, an inch and a half, which will then make my next branch going up the tree. Start at the bottom and work my way up. And you can see now that there is a, you can see now that there is more of a branch structure forming. Again, moving up the tree, sometimes it's easier to just pinch than to snip. So I don't know which of these branches I'll use in the final design yet, so I'm just freeing up as many as I can. And then once I've cleared out the tree, I'll then start making some decisions of which branches I'm going to keep and which ones I'm going to use in the initial styling of this enoki. At least some of what we do now is not going to be the final thing anyway. I quite often try to leave on a few more branches than what I need, just so that if it does fail for any reason, I've got something else that I can use. So you can see it's gradually opening up the centre of the tree. And these little bits I can come back in and tidy up later, but just for the sake of the video, the length of the video, I'll just leave those on for now. So now you can begin to see what we've got to work with. So what I'm now looking for is I'm looking for a line that takes me from the bottom of the tree to what's going to be my apex of the tree. And what I'm looking for is a taper. So I'm looking for something that's going to get smaller and smaller as it goes up the tree. As an example, you could see, you could follow this line along here, and that would take you up to thinner material. That's one option. Probably could use that as well. It goes thinner, thinner, thinner, thinner, thinner all the way. So now what I'm going to do is I'm going to get a bit of wire on some of these branches and then start thinking about my placement of branches. I haven't quite decided which one I'm going to use for the crown of the tree yet. I think it's always quite good to tilt your tree in all sorts of angles. By doing that, I've actually seen another option which I quite like. Yeah, so although this branch here at the moment is at the back of the tree, with a piece of wire, I can bring that over to the front. And I think you might be able to see that makes quite a nice little tree. It's not the only option. There's plenty of other ways you could do it, but that's the one I think I'm going to try for on this occasion. So get a little bit of wire on this and then we'll start bending some branches. With wiring, I prefer to use a slightly smaller grade than what I'll need, but use it doubled up. I just find it a little easier. It also gives me options when I get up the tree to split wire into two different directions. So unless you're trying to use the wire as your main focal point, and that's rare, you want to put your wire in at the back of the tree. Press it down as far as you can. You can see that that's into the soil there. And then what I'm going to do is I'm right-handed, so I'm just going to bend this at roughly 45 degrees. And then I'm really just using my thumb to press it around the tree. So you're wrapping the wire around the tree, not the tree around the wire. Okay, so I'm trying to keep to roughly 45 degrees, but you'll always get to situations where you might not be able to keep the angle. So you'll have to decide whether you want to go above or below a branch. So on this occasion, I'm going to go above. So now you can see I've got two pieces of wire and I can actually now split this piece of wire and I can wire this one with one piece and that one with another piece. So it's roughly that much I need for that side. Carrying on. I'm trying not to trap any foliage. So if there's foliage in my way, I'll just pinch it out. If you trap your foliage, it can just rot away next to the tree. And although it's quite unlikely to do too much damage, it's just good practice, I think, to try not to trap your foliage. That's up to the top of that one now. I can tidy up and neaten up the wiring later as well. So now I'm going to wind this other piece of wire onto this. What gauge of wires was that? I think three and a half. I have no idea, Peter. Yeah. So I've got wire on there now. So that's the back of my tree. So this is what I'm thinking might be the front. So this I'm going to bring into there, something like that. I'm going to get a little bit more wire on these other branches before I start making final decisions on where I'm going to put things. I'm trying to keep my wiring as neat as I can, so I'm going to marry up my wire to the wiring that I've already got on the back of the tree. You'll be able to see it there if I do that. And then I can take one piece of wire around this one, take that piece of wire around that one. And again, I probably won't use all of these in the final design, but I'm going to keep them there for now because if one of them fails, then I've got a replacement branch. So if you see things like this where you've been wiring and you've sort of semi broken through, then I think it's better to remove it. You'll probably find it won't survive, so just get rid of it now. And again, I'm just cleaning the tree as I go. Okay, so I've got a bit of wire on those lower branches, so I can start thinking about where I'm going to put them. So with enokis and generally with evergreen trees, certainly in the Japanese tradition, what the branches tend to do is they go down to start with, so you want to kind of push all your branches into a downward position. So I was thinking of this as my front. I still don't have to keep that as my front. I can change that if I want. The thing about bonsais is I think that you're just using the material that you've got to try and trick the eye to be drawn towards what's the most salient feature of your tree. Now, at the moment, it's probably going to be the trunk. So what I'm trying to do is just direct the eye down and into the tree. So that's why the top of the tree needs to sort of come towards us. It kind of creates almost like a little cave. So if your eye hits it, it comes down and into the tree. If you look at the back of that, your eye will hit it and it'll take your eye up and out and away from the tree. So that's why I'm trying to wire the branches in the positions that I have. So basically now all I'm going to do is just remove anything that's pointing straight up and anything that's pointing straight down, because if your eye hits things that are pointing straight up or straight down, they'll follow them and straight down obviously takes you into the earth rather than the tree. So I'm just going to thin through these and for an initial styling, I think that's probably getting almost there. As I say, just going to go through, remove anything that's pointing straight down, just thinning through, just allowing light into this part of the tree. So hopefully there'll be some back budding and then it gives me something to cut back to later on. Which is your front? So my front is going to be in there. Nice. So we've hardly removed any branches, we've used every branch. At the moment, yes. I mean you've got two branches here that are doing the same job, so at some point I'll probably remove one of those. Or if you can just stagger it, it would do the trick. Yes, yeah. But if one of them failed, I can then use the other one. Very nice. So I'm just going to finish off. So this growth that's underneath here isn't going to get a lot of light, so it's not really going to be doing much for the tree. So that's why I'm removing the stuff on the underside. I can pinch with hinokis, which I think is really nice as well, you can just literally go in and pinch the tips off. So this is how you would prune it later in the year, sort of May-June time, you'll come back in and you'll start pruning and one of the ways to do that is just to pinch it. So I'm trying to create pads like you normally do, but I also don't want to do too much to the tree too soon, because by the time you've bent it you've already stressed the tree out a little bit. So I'm probably just going to leave that at that and let it recover and then later in the year I'll go in and refine it a little bit more. Nice, very nice. Okay, so I have a choice of many different hinokis, every one is different, slightly different with very subtle differences I would say, so we can tell what the tree lends itself to making when we have exposed the trunk. So as with all projects, the first thing to do is to expose the trunk and then see what the tree lends itself to doing. You see how healthy these trees are, they have such a lot of lovely root and the roots always go to the extremities of the pot. For some reason I think the extremities seem to be warmer. I don't know why they go to the end, I've never figured that out. You see inside the roots are not so congested. The tool is very useful for teasing the roots. Without this tool it's quite difficult. These trees are not grafted. Sometimes you get hinokis which are grafted onto an ordinary Kamisipras Lawsonii rootstock to make it a more vigorous tree. In fact a lot of these big specimen trees you'll find a huge bulge at the bottom and that's because the understock is not compatible with the sign that you've grafted on. But if it is grown from cutting you get a better transition. I think these are all grown from cuttings, unless I look carefully I can't tell. I think they're cuttings but already I can see quite a sizable trunk there. It's as thick as my thumb. I still can't see the trunk properly so until and unless I can see the trunk I will not start even trying to visualize the final shape of the bonsai. I don't like to use the word design the tree. It seems a bit pompous. I'll just let the tree evolve as it goes along. There are crossing roots. With all these nursery plants you'll find that because they're potted in pots the roots go round and round and you get this what's called girdling effect where the roots go completely around the tree trunk. Where you see that we will remove all those roots. So we're beginning to see the trunk now. With hinokis they are so dense in the foliage that the trick is always to remove the foliage to see the branch structure. So where you get all this foliage you cannot see any branches let alone the trunk. It's hiding the trunk. So let us remove. This is a very minor branch so let's remove some of these little twigs and branches which are hiding the trunk and hiding the branches. And once you begin to see the trunk then the rest of it falls into place. So do not panic. Usually when you start off with a blob like this it's a complete blob. You can't see any trunk. It's not even looking like a tree. So because we're trying to create something that looks like a tree we're trying to expose the trunk. There are certain principles to follow when you create bonsai. The first principle is to show the trunk. You must show the trunk. That is what we call a non-negotiable principle to use. And then after that the conical shape. Whichever conical shape you create it almost invariably works. So can you see now just by showing the trunk it is beginning to look something like a tree. Let's turn it around to see if there are different perspectives. One side is usually better than another side. It's very seldom that you get a tree where you get everything looking right from all sides. Okay so you often find branches which are very close together. Like this one is very close to that one. These two are very close together. So that could cause a problem. So I might have to consider removing it. Now when you come to here again you see these two branches are very close. So that's doing nothing you see. So what do I do? I know I always you know recommend people to use a thinner branch. But in this instance I think I'll use the thicker one because that is more prominent and it will help me produce a better cone shape. A wide spreading cone shape. So again if I were to do this. This is spreading here. I think I will bite the bullet and take this off because it's too close to that one. So I can get that effect. So straight away I've got the two branches there. Now okay let's wire these two and see what happens. And then we take it to the top. Choosing the right grade of wire is very critical. Part of the trick if you use the wrong grade of wire it won't work. Now this one is a three and a half mil wire. If I was going to bend the trunk I might use that one but I don't think I will use three and a half. Unfortunately there are no hard and fast rules to say what grade of wire works and what grade of wire doesn't work. So now I'm going to try two and a half mil wire because I'm going to wire these two which are fairly thick branches. So I'm going to go up the trunk and do these two. I could even do these two if I so wish but I have other ideas for this because I'm going to take this up to the top. So let's see. I'll play it by ear. Do this and take it to there. I might change my mind. Let's see. Keep the wire tight. I might even take that. There are instances where you don't have to use wire to create a nice hinoki bonsai. I will see if I can find a situation like this. There are people who don't like using wire because they feel that you know the old saying that wiring is cruel to trees. So not that I believe wiring is cruel to trees but there are some people who believe that so they don't do any wiring. But each to his own. So I've used two millimeter wire. Two millimeter wire I keep coming back to the point that two millimeter wire is the most used grade of wire in doing bonsai. Especially for the smaller trees. Two millimeter wire invariably works. And again to let's see if I can get a better impression of what the final tree will work. Thin the pads a little bit. Take the ends off. I like to use scissors to cut into the woody bit. Then pinch. Okay so you can see that it's got a natural shape. There's a natural bend to the tree. But to emphasize it more I'm going to wire this and the top together and see what happens there. So let me turn the tree around because there's a branch going this way. A branch going that way. So you see there's a fork there. If we can remove this you can see there's same thickness here forking there. So I can either use the top one or use the bottom one. Now what do I use? This is a very common situation where you're faced with the decision to choose one or the other of the branches. See there are two there. So which do you use? You know it's very confusing for a beginner. Do I keep both or do I remove one? Now I would be inclined to keep this top one because it's coming this way. This is going that way. So I think if I keep this one it may be a natural direction of the branch. So if you look at it again here I'm going to remove this one. Bite the bullet that comes off. So it's made it even thinner. You see it's now coming this way without having to use much wire. But I will still wire this to emphasize the bend to that one. So let us take that one up. Again using two mil wire. I'm going to wire this branch and that branch. Those two branches. Okay so when you traverse going up the trunk you always follow the direction of this wire. So I'm going to do this. Okay I've used a slightly thinner grade of wire now because the branches are getting thinner. Enokis by the way are not that easy to obtain in garden centers and nurseries. And large specimens are very slow growing so they tend to be quite expensive to buy. And anything with a sizable trunk is very very difficult to find nowadays. Okay so I've wired that one. I've wired the top as well. Well now it looks as if this is also possible as a front. Let's go back to the original front. This was my original front. I've got now this branch here and you know one is tempted to leave it because the tree has got a nice conical shape like that. But I will still try and see what will happen if I did away with that branch. If we did away with this branch like that. Let me bring it back. So if you remove it you get that effect which to me seems a bit sparse. So I think I will keep it but wire it maybe here and then use this as a branch as well. So this would be a branch and I can do those two together. Let me try that and see. Okay so let's use another piece of wire. I'm now using one and half mil wire because these branches are much thinner than those ones. So you always adapt the size of wire to the thickness of the branch. Don't be tempted to just use one grade of wire. A lot of people are miserly and only buy one grade of wire and they think they can do the entire tree with just one grade. It doesn't work like that. The fact that different grades are made means that there's a purpose for doing it. So I'm filling this space because I thought if I removed it completely it would make it too bare. The principle of keeping the conical shape. You can see a distinct conical shape there. If you aim for the conical shape you're bound to succeed. Okay so there's this bit here now and you've got to ask yourself now do I need this one or not. Remember removing a branch is quite a critical thing. I know that if you cut it off it'll grow again but you may have to wait a long time but if you don't cut it off. So you see if I removed it completely like so it would be okay but I think it would give more body to the top if I kept that little bit. So I would prefer to keep this little bit but I'll still have a nice effect. Okay I don't even have to worry it's staying quite nice as it is. So by twisting it I think a little bit of wire may help. So this I think could be with a one millimeter wire. Really thin piece of wire. Do be careful when you handle hinoki branches because they're very brittle. The foliage does get broken off very easily. So there you go. Nice conical shape showing the branches. So the trick again is to show the trunk, show the branches and a conical shape. Those are the basic principles for creating this. So just to prove that it's not a fluke let's do another one. Let's look at this one. As I say every tree is different. Like human beings they're all different. So let's try this one and see what I get from this one. I haven't seen any vine weevil in the soil. Usually when you buy plants from commercial garden centers and nurseries the vine weevil is a big problem. With the best will in the world you can't stop it happening because if a nursery has a few beetles they will spread it like wildfire. The thing is to keep control of it. That's why chemicals and other control measures are kept. We use nematodes which is a natural way of controlling these weevils. So if you see it either squash it or get rid of it but what the vine weevils do we call it BWs. They chew the roots and they remove the bark of the root and it can damage the root and then eventually kill the tree. So watch out for that. Okay again I'm looking for the base of the tree. Some of these roots are really strong. I don't want any roots which are popping out. These roots are really thick and strong. When you find a lot of roots on the tree it doesn't hurt to remove some of them. Don't go to the extreme and remove all of them. I know that people always follow slavishly this advice they've been given. You can remove a third of the root but why do you have to remove it if you don't have to remove it. Okay this is a very thick root. Very thick root. It's popping up at the top. It'll be hard to pin it down to the surface. You see how thick that one is. So I'm going to take this one off. Look at that. Taking all that off. That is a very mature root. See this. This is also a problem root. Look at that. If you look closely it's popping up like that. That's not going to be a good radial root. So let's get that one off. I still have a lot of root left and in fact by removing that I find that there's more trunk below. So I did the right thing removing it because see all that trunk is wasted below. There's more trunk there. The trunk is so critical you know. See now you begin to see the trunk. Once you see the trunk hey presto it starts looking like a tree. Okay so we can see the trunk. We can see the branches. Now there are some very minor little twiggy branches. Those we don't really want because we want to create space between the branches. So let's get rid of some of those. You can see that these can be placed in position. As we go up the trunk we can see some more. Let me see if I can produce a nice looking bonsai without wiring. Just for the heck of it. It's difficult but I might end up having to wire. But let's see if I can do that. Again conical shape. If this is boiling the conical shape I force it into a conical shape. You see what I'm doing. I'm making it into a conical shape. I think it's going to be difficult without wiring. See that makes a natural branch. This makes a natural branch. Difficult I think. This is a very heavy pad. Look at it. It's so dense. So I'm going to thin this pad a little bit. Remove some of the twigs from near the trunk and anything hanging down I will try and remove. Don't go too crazy too mad. I'm just creating spaces between branches. The very thin minor branches I'm going to get rid of. So this tree has got a completely different character. Now I got a situation here where I've got these two branches and this branch. Again very tempting to keep all of them but again I'm going to do the proverbial bite the bullet because I want the branches staggered. This is like a bar branch. I know that bar branches sometimes works but because I got a situation where I got two I'm going to remove the bottom one. Bar branch means a handle bar. You know going straight across. So that bar branch I will remove. You see I've created space there. Now I'm going to create that. That looks okay. It doesn't spoil the look you see. So naturally going from here to there. I don't think it would work not wiring the branches because it's got this natural habit of springing up. So let us decide on giving it a bit of wire. I think this is a nice form upright trunk so I'm not going to even attempt to wire the trunk into an s-shape. I'll just wire the branches because this is what this tree lends itself to becoming just a straight form upright or bolt upright tree. I often wonder how this term formal upright came about. What's so formal about it? It's just upright. Okay so left to its own devices all branches tend to spring upwards. And that is the bane of all bonsai people. With branches springing upwards it spoils the conical shape and it begins to merge with the upper branches. So keeping the wire to hold the branches down makes a big difference. So let's take this to the end there. You see the two branch pins where I'm traversing the trunk and keeping the wire very close to the trunk so that there's no gap between the bark and the wire. I hope you're getting a good view. I'm not used to performing behind the tree. There's some people who demonstrate behind the tree. I really admire them because you know you don't get a better view doing it that way. I know the Japanese flower rangers are very good at doing that. But this is the view you would see when you're creating a tree. So I prefer to show it like this. See I only put one piece of wire. I could get away with that. It looks incredible bonsai like this. So I've got to now go further up the tree. I'm even tempted to leave it like that and not do any more. Let me just for the heck of it put another piece of wire to see if I can get a better shape. There's some very thin ones I'm not going to wire. I'm probably going to wire those two. This and that to the top. So we'll take a thin piece of wire and do those two. So this one we've got away with minimum wiring. Really minimum wiring. So there you go. This is a really simple one because we've done the minimum of wiring. There you are. It looks a very credible tree. I can thin it a little bit to create a little more space. Branches. I don't want to remove that because if I remove that it becomes too bad. So I just leave it like that. So we're ready to pot up. So we'll find a pot, remove the roots that need to be removed to fit the pot and we will show you the finished article. Okay. I wouldn't normally be doing this at this time of the year. My understanding is Hinoki's prefer being repotted later in the year. It's now end of January. I'd probably be looking at end of April, May time. But so that we can show you what they look like potted up. I'm going to pot it up now. You can keep it protected between now and then. So choosing the right pot is an important step in bonsai anyway. Different pots will emphasize different aspects of your tree. A tree with movement such as this one for example generally looks better in an oval pot. Formal upright as Peter was just talking about. Quite often you'll find those in rectangular pots. A lip on a pot like this will shorten the height of the tree. It's a bit like a dado row in a Victorian house. You can almost imagine like a with a stripy shirt if he's tall. If he wants to shorten his height he'll wear stripes this way. And if you're a short man like me and you want to look tall you'll wear stripes going that way. So it's all about just creating that illusion and trying to show your tree off as best you can. So I've teased out a little bit more soil off of this and they're going to fit in there quite nice. I could probably get it into a smaller pot because it's so early in the year. I don't really want to take off much more root than what I've done already. So I'm just going to prep this pot by putting a piece of wire through it. So the wire's just here to hold the tree in place so that the new roots get a chance to establish. But once the roots are established you can remove this piece of wire. Depending how well this tree grows I would probably be looking to take the wire off in maybe six months time. I don't particularly like the scarring of wire on a tree but some people do. So again it's a choice. Over here I've got our deciduous mix so free draining soil. Generally evergreen trees like a little bit more drainage. So just putting a little bit of soil in the bottom of the pot and then my next decision is trying to think about positioning in the pot. So you know I can put it dead centre, I can put it up to one side, I can put it to the other side, I can tilt it slightly. There's lots of different things that I can do and I think what I'm going to probably do is tilt it slightly and bring it over to this side of the pot. Pull the wire towards you, pinch the lower part of the wire together and twist. Remove the excess that you don't need and just again check. So most bonsai are designed with your eye about a third of the way up the tree so this is where I'm looking and I'm just trying to decide whether that is where I want it. So I've got an upward poking root here but I don't think I'm going to get into the soil very easily so I'm going to remove that because I don't want my roots growing up, I want them growing down. That one I seem to have managed to attract but I can bring that round so that I'm keeping it into that radial position so as these thicken up they're all going to be in the right place hopefully. Just backfill the tree, I'm using a chopstick just to make sure that all of the roots are in soil. Some roots will travel through air pockets but some don't, they'll just stop so I don't know which are which so I always work on the side of portions so I just make sure that I've put plenty of soil in there and removed any air pockets that I can feel with the end of the chopstick. So I'm leaving a gully around the bottom so that when I water the tree it's not all going to run off the side. Just tidying it up and then one more look see if I need to reposition any of my branches so I think this one can come down still further now bring that down these are just sort of finite things so as a initial styling I think that's okay just wait for it to grow out and then I'll just be pruning it to create ramification and enhance the pads. Okay so I've taken that much root off from a root ball like that so I've taken about I would say 20 percent off. There's still a lot of root here but I don't want to go too crazy. Let me talk about choosing pots. A number of you have asked me why don't you do a video just about how to choose pots. I usually run these topics when I do a particular tree. I don't want to just devote a whole program about choosing pots. Now how would I go about choosing a pot? First of all the pot has to be the right size for the situation that the tree demands and of course there's the aesthetics part. This pot would fit because the proportions are right. I know the Japanese might even go slightly smaller than this but this I would say is right. Right size of pot for this design of tree but I'm not going to use this pot for the simple reason because this is the first repot. If I take too much root off it's going to stress the tree so ideally this is the right size of pot for the final finish of the tree. I may change it maybe next year or in two years time but I won't do it straight away. Even this is a suitable pot but this is too shallow for this point in time because I would have to remove so much root. That means compared to the original root ball I'm removing about 80 percent of the root ball so I would not do that but it's just to prove the point that this is a very nice pot for this tree when it is ready for it. This pot could be okay for now because it's quite a deep pot and I won't have to remove too much root. So compared to this pot, this pot is right for the situation at this point in time. So although it looks a bit large it is suitable for the tree because I don't want to cut too much root off. So a lot of people will laugh at me and say he's using too big a pot but there's good reason for doing that. Even as a training pot this is very good. This is quite deep, quite big. I could even use this pot. This would fit. I know it's a bit long but it would give the tree room. This would be a bit too big I would say. No need for going so large. Even as a training pot this would make the tree comfortable but I think this is a bit large so I wouldn't use this one. How about an oval pot? Again at this point in time I wouldn't use it because I would have to remove too much root. You could use this pot eventually and put a stone or something, create a landscape. So you see there's so many possibilities, different possibilities for pots but you've got to use the pot for the right situation at that particular point in time. So what does it come back to? If I want to sell it cheaply I will put it in a plastic pot like this. If I want to push the price up a little more this is a more expensive pot. It would cost about four or five times the plastic pot, the ceramic pot. So I could use this pot. So let's set about putting this pot in. I won't show you the process, it's quite simple. So this is the pot which we're going to use for this one. Alright so I hope you've enjoyed this video. We've both done different trees but it just shows there are no right and wrong ways of doing it. Every tree that you design, the tree that you will be making, will look different. So explore the possibilities. This is just to show how versatile the Hinoki Cypress is. So I hope you've enjoyed this video and thank you Pat. One addendum that I need to add before I finish the video. I suddenly realised that I was going to show you how to make cuttings. We didn't cut many branches on these projects but what we did cut off are ideal cuttings and because Hinoki is quite a rare plant it is not worth throwing these away. So cuttings of this size are ideal. This is about four or five millimetre thick. You can also use this up about like two, two and a half millimetre. This is also possible but if it is too thin where it is green that may not work. So that is useless. Throw that away. But all these are possible cuttings. So we just put some homewood powder, we clean the base, try and root this and they do root quite easily. So there you are, nothing wasted.