REBUILDING A CHEAP BMW M5 COMPETITION | PT 3

Rebuilding this BMW M5 Competition has been one of my biggest challenges yet. But today it's about to get that much harder because I need to repair the M5 engine and get it back inside the M5. Do you think buying this M5 in the condition that it's in for £32,500 was a mistake? I don't know what the hype is. Well the previous owner certainly did and that's why he sold it to me. To repair it, I've had to remove the engine so I could access the strut tower which has this huge hole in it. And in the previous video, I managed to remove the old strut tower and replace it with a new one without any specialist equipment and it only cost me £370 and with the similar specs BMW M5 worth around £57,000, I'd say this build is still on track. But that's until we get to the engine. So this monstrosity of a thing connected to the gearbox is a 4 litre twin turbo V8 engine. And I'm sure you'll all agree, it's pretty ugly. There's so many cables, wires and hoses and half of them, I have no idea what they do. A lot of stuff is broken but what we're going to do before I try and move this into the engine, I've got to start repairing all the bits which are broken like the inlet manifold here which is a plastic inlet manifold. I think here we have the water pump which the pulley is broken on as well. And if I put this engine in before doing all of that, it's just going to cause me a thousand and one problems trying to do it inside the engine. So I guess I better get started. Here is the inlet manifold and this is the last place the air's got to go through before it goes into the combustion chamber. And this is pretty badly damaged and that will be causing some serious air leaks. Not to mention if it sucks up any plastic, it would cause some pretty catastrophic engine failure. There's two of these inlet manifolds on this engine, one for the four cylinders on the left hand side and another one for the four cylinders on the right hand side of the engine. If I try to remove the inlet manifold whilst it was in the car, you can imagine how much of a nightmare it would have been. And I actually seem to have got lucky in the previous episodes when I started the car because there's some huge bits of plastic in there. But I've just about got all the bolts undone now and here's the new one. We'll get on to prices later but for a bit of plastic, it was surprisingly expensive from BMW. Now I've just got to switch over the sensor from the old one onto the new one and then I can bolt the throttle body to the new inlet manifold. This is what controls the airflow going into the engine and is electronically controlled by the throttle pedal and once I've got that bolted to the inlet manifold, I can begin refitting it to the engine. And now I'm taking off the other charge cooler so I can access the pulley of the water pump here which seems to have taken a fair bit of beating from the crash. Again the water pump does what it says on the tin, it pumps the water through the engine. Now I've never worked on a BMW M5 before so really I'm just learning as I go along and the only thing I've learnt so far is that this engine is a nightmare to work on. You have to remove so many different things to get to that one thing you need to get to. Water pump is off. This just looks like a lot of stress and here's the water pump and we're only changing this just because of that plastic pulley there. Thermostat housing is on the end. Here's the new one which is brand spanker from BMW and that's it. I can't imagine there'd be any reason why you'd ever change this in a car, it doesn't look like a serviceable thing but let's get this on and I think the rest we should be able to do in the car before some compulsory upgrades. Are you alright? I will be alright after I've got the engine back in the car and it's running again. Before I switch the water pumps over I'm going to transfer the thermostat housing with the thermostat in onto the new water pump and then start attaching it to the engine. Not forgetting all the pipes, hoses and wires which are all connected to it. Now for the water pump to work it needs a belt to turn the pulley and the belt on this M5, well it's seen better days and it looks like it's been flicked off during the accident. But here we have a brand new belt from BMW, I've just got to figure out which way it roots round all of the pulleys. This pulley right here that I'm turning is the tensioner and by turning it I can get the old belt out the way and to put the new one on I'll turn the tensioner again and then wedge a little centre punch in the hole to keep the tensioner from, well, tensioning. Then I just hope that I've rooted this belt the right way because the only thing that seems strange is that the belt is ribbed but the pulley on the water pump is super smooth so it must just grip it. Right I'm calling it, I think that this is just about ready to go back in, there is still a few damaged parts on it, the charge coolers are missing but all of the damaged stuff and the charge coolers and everything I should be able to get to with the engine in and it actually probably be easier because I won't be kneeling on the floor doing it but not before doing some vital upgrades. Most of these BMWs have adaptive suspension so when you press the sport button the ride height gets stiffer, when you press comfort it goes softer and that's all done with this damper and the control which kind of all plugs in there and I kind of wanted to keep that if I changed the full suspension unit I would lose it, you'd end up with a warning light and a dashboard but I did want to be able to change the ride height which is exactly what these things are going to do. KW adjustable springs, it would be stupid not to do this whilst it's out. This is probably going to be the easiest suspension install that I've ever done, I don't even have to detach it from the wheel hub, I've got my spring compressor on because I don't fancy losing my teeth when I disconnect the top mount and once I disconnect the top mount I can pull it off the strut along with the spring and the compressor. How easy was that? And to fit these KW springs you're supposed to press off the bottom spring seat and I don't have a press so a hammer was the next best thing but it did the job and once that's off I can clean up the strut and then press on the new KW adjustable spring mount at the bottom and all of this suspension fitting was working up my appetite. What? No! I'm actually trying to be healthier this year. We should have one of these instead. You're right! This, no not this, this is YFood and it's a meal replacement drink and inside one of these there is 26 vitamins and minerals, it's high in fibre, high in protein, lactose free, it's gluten free and there's no added sugar, this is the perfect meal replacement drink. On top of that there is loads of different flavours to choose from and even vegan options. Now if you're like me and constantly on the go you might be guilty of grabbing a little bit of fast food at lunchtime in between whatever you're doing but that's when a YFood comes into place. This is not a diet drink, a protein shake, it simply just replaces a meal, it's 500 calories in this and it's enough to keep you full up to your next meal. So to try YFood yourself you can do by grabbing a taster pack with the link in the description box below and with this banner appearing underneath you right now there's a discount code which is going to save you a fair bit of cash when getting one. Thanks so much YFood for sponsoring the video, back on with the suspension. Bump stop and dust cover, spring, top mount bearing and then the top mount. KW suspension on, next modification which is not needed but is almost a necessity whilst we've got it out, the downpipes, we're going to be changing these for better ones and shout out to Evolve Automotive for sorting us out with these because these are going to make it from a 9 out of 10 to a 10 out of 10, they're catless downpipes and I believe as well OPF delete so on European cars you've got these horrible OPF filters which make the car just like a, yeah what would you say, they make it sound rubbish but these are going to fix that for me. Not only should the M5 sound better with these downpipes, it's going to be helping the engine to breathe better which in turn increases the performance and these cars ain't slow to start off with. As usual to get the downpipes off isn't as straightforward as we thought, there's loads of heat shields in the way along with wires and a bunch of sensors, with it being a V8 there's two downpipes so that means there's two lamber sensors for each downpipe, I've got to remove all of these so I can take the heat shield off to access both of the downpipes and now it's just a case of removing all the bolts and mounts so I can detach the downpipes from the engine and on goes the new fresh Evolve downpipes. This job wasn't the easiest doing it with the engine off the car so I could only imagine what this would have been like if the engine was in so we should be saving a lot of time here. That took a lot longer than first anticipated and this would have been horrible to do with the engine in the car, the only thing that we are kind of stuck with now are these probes here which sat in the OPFs and there must have been some sort of OPF sensors because they are electrically plugged in here but we don't have any OPFs anymore so I can only assume that this has got to be coded off the car but luckily we've got Malibu Performance for that so we should be able to get it tuned instantly but it'll be interesting to see what happens when we run it without these OPF sensors in. For now I think we're about ready to get the engine in. First step is to get the engine and gearbox into position and with three of us it shouldn't be too hard to push it into place. Okay, big V8 engine is now pretty much lined up to go in, I really hope that I've remembered to plug everything in and now I've just got to slowly lower the car down and I'm hopefully going to get a few bolts in the top of the strut here through the strut tower which we replaced and then the rest, well I think, oh god, I hope, I'm just going to have to wing it. Okay, I can't really remember much but I did take a lot of photos, I'm just worried about where that one went but I guess we'll find out. So I'm on my own for this job but that shouldn't be an issue because all I've got to do is lower the ramp into place and if I can get one bolt to hold the subframe to the car then I should be able to line everything up off that. And I actually managed to do it but I still haven't got the gearbox mounts in, it's just being held up with this huge jack so I'm going to crawl under the car and line up all the bolts and get them in to hold the gearbox to the frame of it and now the engine is fully supported to the car so that means I can remove the engine mount and the car can go in the air and as I can get underneath the car now, I can tighten up all the subframe bolts and then start on the electrical connections like the ground wire for the gearbox here, then connecting the prop shaft up to the gearbox, there's three bolts which hold that in and then there's two supporting bolts which hold the prop shaft to the car and it's starting to come together. There's one last thing though, the steering rack, I've got to connect that to the steering column coming out of the car and this job is a bit of a faff. The steering rack pushes into the steering column and then there's one bolt which pinches it and holds it in place and I just about got there with a bit of a squeeze. Now it's on to the top of the engine which is all of the wiring and oh my days there is a lot of wiring and a lot of plugs which need to be connected but luckily on these new cars you can only connect them one way so it's pretty easy to work out whether you've missed one out and it's almost impossible to put a plug in the wrong connector. And I think I've just about put all the electrical connectors in, it's time to connect up the fuel lines, we've got a fuel feed and a fuel return and then the coolant reservoir can go back on to the top of the engine and then last but not least it's time to connect up all the suspension parts including the brake lines because the calipers came off with the subframe and that should just about do it, hopefully. The engine is in, either I'm getting a bit better at this mechanic stuff or that actually wasn't too bad, it looks an absolute mess and I'm in a bit of a predicament at the minute because the charge coolers, they're broken, I've got them over here, so this is broken you can see it's snapped off there, the other one's got a hole in it but they haven't arrived yet but I'm desperate to find out whether this thing starts and also to hear those down pipes with the exhaust off because you just know it's going to be so loud and I know what you're all thinking, you're probably thinking don't start it but I kind of want to start it. I think I'm going to start it. Just to be a little bit safer I installed both of the old charge coolers, even though they did have damage to them but this should stop the car having a major air leak and with them both installed I can connect the battery up and we'll see whether this engine starts up. Right, this is really going to absolutely bob itself, there's no GPS, there's no coolant, I hope I don't regret this. That is insanely loud, that is ridiculously loud, that was a first, well almost first crank, okay, we actually did something, we took an engine out, put it back in, we actually fixed something, I think, yeah we've definitely progressed now because we've got an engine which is running, a fixed strut tower, the belt seems to have stayed on, good news. Progression at it's finest, although we've still got the rear springs to install but let's have a price update on how much it's cost to get to this point, the intake manifold. £622 and it was plastic. Then we move on to the water pump which cost me £301, fan belt £53, bringing the total repair bill so far to £1,346 but that's without the upgrade parts. Right, here we go, one, is it going to be in the centre, two, is it going to hold the weight of the car? If we can drive this outside after this then we've performed miracles. Bit of play on three fingers, four fingers a bit too much, this is the accurate finger test, three, three with a bit of play, let me just double check. Oh my god, I think it's like three with a bit of play, well according to my fingers this is bang on, I think so, just need it all tracking up. So so far it seems the new strut tower was a success, all seems to be in the right place but I was dying to see if the M5 went in gear and I could drive it out of the unit. Every time we f***ing video me we're bodging someone. If the M5 managed to drive out with it's own power we can definitely say we've made some improvement. Here we go. But I think I was speaking a little too soon. This is, how much can you take off a BMW M5 and still drive it? Right here we go, oh I've got no brakes, I've got no brakes at all. Now although the car would start, I couldn't get it to go in gear, it wouldn't come out of park. It says to engage gear press brake so it sounds like, yeah but it's weird because it let me start it because you can't start it without putting your foot on the brake. We think I can't get it in gear because the brakes aren't bled correctly, the pedal is pushing all the way to the floor so it's probably not thinking that I'm pushing the brake to put it in gear so we're going to try and bleed the brakes and then give it another go and I'm going to check all the connections underneath whilst I'm there. Obviously the front brakes came off when I disconnected the subframe and it must have lost a lot of brake fluid when I did that. So we're going the old school way first of bleeding the brakes where I'm going to sit in the car, pump the brake pedal whilst my dad opens the bleed nipples and gets any air out of the braking system. Recycled. To start we're only doing the front brakes because they're the ones that came off. Let's see if that works. Despite us bleeding the brakes I still had no brake pedal, it was pushing all the way to the floor and I still couldn't get it in gear. This is very new and again probably over engineered. This is literally like, so normally on a brake system you'd have four brake lines coming out the master cylinder, one going to the front right, front left, back and the other back as well but this one has six, there's two, yeah there's two extra brake lines which are going down and into this ABS module here and it seems all the air in the braking system is ending up in these brake lines here which are going into that ABS module and it seems the only way to bleed that is to plug in a computer, I don't know whether mine will do it, the Autel will do it, they use something called ISTA but I'm going to see if that computer will do it and it will like self bleed almost I think so I'm going to give that a go but if we can't bleed the brakes we can't put it in gear because it seems that the brake pedal is on a pressure sensor so unless you've got pressure on the brakes it won't recognise that your foot's on the brakes to put it in gear. This is, well, it's stupid. Once I'd logged onto the Autel I could see a procedure for bleeding the brakes which is all linked up to the ABS module which seems to be that little computer sitting underneath the car so I'm going to see if I can follow the instructions on the Autel to see if I can get a brake pedal after that. Say when, okay, continue, is it? So this thing is doing something whilst fluid is being, is it being pumped out, no? When it makes that other noise. We had to follow the steps on the computer and it seems as if it was bleeding the brakes using that ABS module underneath the car, doing corner by corner. We might have sussed it but I might be speaking too soon, seems weird, but yeah it launches it out doesn't it? Now it said on the computer that we're supposed to have pressure going into the master cylinder so we used this pump and then almost plunged the hole as of course we didn't have the right kit for it but we'll soon find out whether that works. Service completed. Can I press it? Yeah. You're joking? No, really? Yeah. No way. Really? Yeah. What the f... What on earth, what the hell? Wow. Brilliant. So me and my dad did the procedure over and over again, I think we did it four times in fact just to try and get as much air out of the system as possible and we got to the point where there was not one single air bubble coming out of the calipers but still nothing. But nothing. The brake pedal was pushing all the way to the floor. In the end we gave up on the brakes and then begin to think it wasn't going in gear because it thinks the bonnet is open but we plugged in the new sensors for the bonnet latch and tricked it to thinking the bonnet was closed but it seems it still didn't work. We still cannot get any form of brake pedal, we've done the procedure many times, we've done as you would normally bleed the brakes many times over and all of this is linked to not being able to put it in gear because we've got no brake pressure on the brake. So this is a perfect time for me to say, save the manuals, it's the hoodie and t-shirt which is available right now with the link in the description because if this was a manual we'd be able to drive it outside and also with a manual handbrake we would be able to stop but it looks like, if you guys could help us let me know in the comment section below, if you enjoyed this video hit that subscribe button, hit that thumbs up button and I guess I'll see you in the next video where hopefully we get this off the ramp. Hannah, just see if the headlights work.