Why the REAL DECONSTRUCTION of this planted tank (4K)

I haven't been this excited about creating an aquascape in a long time, you know. I do Nature Aquariums every week, do it for clients, do it for workshops, do it for companies, do it for myself. I've only ever made one attempt at a... Hello everyone, welcome to this new video, all about my Oase Scaperline 60 aquascape. This has been going on for over six months now and it's time for a change. Before I do a rescue and we'll talk about what I'm going to do next later, I wanted to do a final kind of deep dive video and go into some real details about the landscape, Some storytelling around it, some stuff about equipment, plant species, the fish. And yeah, just a little bit of a unique one, quite relaxing. If you do enjoy it, do me a huge favor and hit the like and subscribe if you haven't done so yet. It really helps the channel, helps me keep the studio going and hopefully get aquascaping out there to more and more people that I think deserve to know about the benefits aquascaping can bring to us all. So yeah, I'd be really grateful if you could hit that like button and maybe drop a comment. Is there anything in particular about this landscape that you like or don't like? I'm not afraid to show you the algae. It's nice to show imperfections as well as the more beautiful things, isn't it? I have some exciting news regarding another exclusive workshop here at my home. And some very, very exciting news about what's going to happen next here. It's the most exciting thing I've been about creating a new aquascape in a long, long time, so I'm really excited to share that with you later. Stay around, hopefully you won't regret it. Many of you may be familiar with the Scaperline series, Oase's aquascaping specialist aquarium. Low iron glass, mitered corners, really, really suitable for premium budget levels. It's high quality, German, Oase being a German premium brand. The cabinet is exceptional. It has magnetic holders on the door for the tools. It has a sliding drawer for the Biomaster filter maintenance. It has removable slots here for the filter hoses. A lot of cabinets tend to warp and twist over time as the water gets into the MDF wood. But these are completely sealed. I've had this for well over a year now. Absolutely no signs of any damage. The lighting is on loan from Aquarium Gardens. It's a high-end light, sells for about £400-£500. I'll most likely be replacing this with Chihiros in the future, or Twinstar. But I'm hoping to just do the same brand of lighting throughout all my aquariums to keep things coherent. I've replaced the supplied Biomaster filter hoses with clear hoses, and I've used reducers to reduce the internal diameter from 16mm to 12mm. In my mind, that fits the size of the aquarium better. It reduces the flow of the filter a little bit, but that's okay. It's a powerful enough filter anyway, and it's not a big tank. There's a Biomaster 350 on here, and I've updated it with the new inlet and the impeller cover as well. So less prone to flow restricting and purging of air. The glass filter outlet and inlet, I clean them every three or four weeks. I don't tend to use any bleach, just good old manual scrubbing tends to get rid of the vast majority of that built-up algae. Let me know if you have any comments on the equipment. Total cost I would guess, if you bought everything here brand new, you're looking at probably £2000 or so. It's not cheap, I won't lie, it's a expensive hobby if you want to get to that premium range. High quality products, high energy system with CO2 injection, soil substrate, decent hardscape and plants etc. But please don't let that put you off from aquascaping. It's all about creating miniature underwater worlds, and you don't need expensive equipment to do that. I guess what this is, is an aspiration for people who are interested in taking it to the next level. They might want to save up, enjoy the finer things in life, I suppose you could say. And I'm very privileged of course to be able to show these to you in person. The substrate system is a base layer of ADA Power Sand Advanced. This contains a host of nutrients and other products to help establish the substrate, keep it biologically active. And just the best kind of start as well. And the Power Sand is a proven performer. It's a relatively expensive product, being ADA, Aquadesign Amano, premium Japanese aquarium brand of course. But this is, it's not necessary to put under the soil, but you'll just get marginally better results. And if you're in the market for optimization, then it's something to consider. It's on recommendation from Dave from Aquarium Gardens. On top of the Power Sand is a 9-litre bag of Awaze Escaper Soil, the black version. Very, very similar product to the Tropica Aquarium Soil, which I'm running in my other two tanks at the moment. I've also been feeding the plants extra nutrition with the Tropica Nutrition Capsules. These are gelatin capsules with nutrient-rich balls in them, and you just target feed your plants as appropriate. I use a tweezer and just pop them in. Just be aware that the gelatin does dissolve in water, and it can leave a little kind of oily film on the surface. Top tip though, if you keep platys, the platys keep the surface absolutely gin clear. They just seem to enjoy feeding these microorganisms from the surface. So if you don't mind keeping platys and having lots of baby platys, then it's a beneficial side effect, I guess, of keeping these live bearing fish. The substrate is slightly sloped to the rear to give a greater sense of depth. It's been a little messy over the last six months or so. As I've kind of uprooted plants and replanted, it's dragged up some of the power sand and some of the nutrient balls from the nutrition capsules as well. So when I do the rescue, I'll change the substrate. But what I'll do is probably leave the bottom one centimeter remaining and top it off with an inert sand straight gravel. I'll explain why in a forthcoming video. So I won't be using 100% soil in the next scape, but I'll be keeping some of the old substrate because that contains so many beneficial bacteria. And it will help establish the biology of a new aquascape. Let me know if you have any questions about the substrate. OK, let's talk about liquid fertilizers. Currently, I'm using the Oase Scapeline Daily Fertz every day. And then once a week, I add their mineral mix, which contains a host of other nutrients, some of which I've never heard of being used in an aquarium, like titanium, which is really interesting. I've opted for a different bottle. This comes with a precise dosing pump. It's actually 5ml per pump. I just got this from Amazon. It holds about 700ml, so it lasts a good few weeks. I'm dosing the Oase fertilizers in here, and I'm dosing Tropica Specialised Nutrition in my big tank. Obviously, well, not obviously, but some of you probably know, Tropica and Oase do support my channel, so I need to use both of their products, both proven performers. You use whatever you can get your hands on, or whatever suits your needs best. So, yeah, I pour the fertilizer in there, and it's just two pumps. And liquid fertilizers is a topic all by itself, really. There's a lot of talk about them being unnecessary and too expensive. Some people absolutely insist that one brand is better than the other. I have a lot of ideas, I have a lot of experience with liquid fertilizers over 20 years, trying different brands and making my own. I have a lot of experience, and I would like to share, frankly, my thoughts on liquid fertilizers. So you can look forward to a deep dive video on liquid fertilizers coming out at some point soon. I do run the Estimative Index Methodology, which basically means I'm deliberately giving the plants a little more than they actually need. You could say that's a overdose, but that has a negative connotation. So they don't necessarily need 10ml a day, 70ml a week, but it's better, especially in a high-energy system, It's always better to give the plants a little too much nutrient rather than too little. If you give them too little, the plant will suffer, the plant leaches sugars and other chemicals that attract algae, And you'll get a pale leaf, and it won't look pretty, snails will start attacking it, potentially fish, algae. So it's always best to keep your plants very well fed through the substrate, through the plant roots of course, and also through the plant leaves, that's where the liquid fertilizer comes in. So that's liquid fertilisation in a nutshell. Let's talk about carbon dioxide injection, CO2. Not necessary in a planted aquarium, but absolutely necessary if you want to get the best optimal plant health and growth from your aquarium plants. So I would always recommend using CO2 injection if you have the budget and you want to experiment with growing more demanding plants, or achieving more compact, healthier, more vibrant growth. If you're more in line with nature and you want to slow things down a little, you're happy to stick with slow-growing, easy plants, In fact, I've had many aquariums do very well without CO2 injection, And I can completely understand why people don't want to go down that route. The system I'm using here today is the Strideways Pro dual stage regulator. It's actually a manifold, so there are three needle valves and bubble counters, so I can control my three aquascapes from one regulator. Great piece of CO2 equipment, very reliable so far, I've been running it for a couple of years now I believe. The actual distribution method of the CO2 is via an in-line CO2 diffuser, I think it's CO2 Art. This is a ceramic tube that basically fits in line with your filter outlet hose. The CO2 gas penetrates that tube under high pressure, you probably need at least 3 or 4 bar potentially to penetrate that, which is about 50 psi or so I guess. And what that does, it just produces lots and lots of tiny, tiny micro-bubbles that get pushed really, really fast through the water, flowing through the outlet tube of course, through the lily pipe, and then those micro-bubbles flow all the way around the tank, feeding those plants really, really well. The disadvantage of in-line CO2 is that you do have this kind of fog in the aquarium, So depending on the style of aquascape, what kind of background you have, how close you are to the aquarium, What your tolerance is of seeing a little bit of fog in your tank, then it's not for everyone, But it's arguably the most efficient way to get CO2 around your aquarium. You can use in-line reactors that completely dissolve the CO2 before it gets into the aquarium, So you don't see the micro-bubbles and the CO2 is present as a dissolved CO2 rather than its gaseous form. So this is really interesting, and a little nerd, but I like nerd, I hope you do too. So from my understanding of reading people like Tom Barr, the plants will actually benefit more from having those CO2 micro-bubbles hitting the leaves. The plant is almost fooled into thinking it's out in the air, Because it's actually receiving the CO2 in its gas form as those bubbles are hitting the leaves. And this would arguably give you better growth, because a plant is very, very good at growing out into the air. It's evolved to do that better than underwater. So if the CO2 is 100% dissolved, you may not see such effective growth. I think the reactors are generally more expensive. I've never actually used one. Because it's got a black background and those micro-bubbles really stand out. When I'm sitting back here, I don't really notice it, but from sitting here I can see them now. It looks a little like a snowstorm, which isn't aesthetically pleasing. So I'm running around two bubbles per second on this one now. I actually turned off the CO2 for filming, because I didn't really want to show you the fog, But I'll put it on and cover some mist for you, of course, so you can see exactly what I mean. And the good thing about actually one of the advantages of the fog, and potentially achieving better growth, is you can see how effective your CO2 distribution is, your circulation. And that's really important. You want to be getting a nice, even circulation around the entire aquarium. You don't want any dead spots. Dead spots mean there's going to be very little CO2 there, Very little nutrients getting forced into those plants. So we want decent circulation. We have that in here, of course. We also have the Biomaster 350, a lily pipe, which is designed to give you that really great hydrodynamic effect of spreading the water around. And it's a relatively small aquarium, so it's pretty easy to achieve fairly decent circulation rates. Different story in a bigger tank like the 400 there. It's got two Biomaster 850s on it, both in the left corner. Not bad circulation, but not as good as something like this, just because of the size of the aquarium. So keep that in mind, especially if you want to go high energy in a really big aquarium, You really need to optimize your circulation. So don't underestimate the power of decent filtration in combination with circulation. You can add powerheads and wave makers, etc. You can test for CO2. There are a couple of methods that are commonly used. The drop checker method, that's a little glass orb. Typically a small glass orb filled with a color reagent, which changes color depending on your CO2 level. And then you have the 1 pH drop method, which is explained in my book, actually. I won't go into too much detail. I do have videos on testing for CO2, and other videos on how to install CO2 kits, etc. So just have a little search on my channel, and if you want to go deeper into CO2, just check that out. So that's the CO2 in a nutshell. Let me know if you have any questions about CO2. Let's talk about the fish. These are all the same species. These are the platy. I forgot the name of the variety. They were bought from my local Maidenhead Aquatics in Huntingdon. I started with 6, and now there's probably a good 20. Maybe even more in here. And I've transferred some over to my other Scaperline 60. The platy is so far removed from its wild cousins, It's widely believed that it's probably a hybrid of the common platy and the variegated platy. So for those geeks out there, that's Xiphophorus immaculatus and Xiphophorus ovariatus. Like I said, I don't know what the variety name of the platy is, So let me know if you recognize it in the comments. Here's an adult coming out now. I'll just give them some food. Let's just try a little colored flakes today. This is Oase, organic food. Very, very good quality. They do tend to love this food. I'll put quite a bit in and then we can see them do their magic. There you go. - Okay. So they do tend to hang around near the surface, And as I said earlier, they like to keep the surface nice and clean, which saves the use of a surface skimmer. So very playful fish, very random in their behavior. Doesn't seem to have the intelligence of, say, cichlids or even tetras. But they're fun, and this is a fun aquascape. Colorful, large textures, a little random, a little chaotic. Very high maintenance if you want to keep it under control, but also quite fun just to let it go a little wild and crazy. And you really get that nice before and after effect after a good maintenance session. I did a deep dive maintenance session on a video on this tank, So you can check that out as well on my channel. We have other livestock here. We have some beautiful cherry shrimp. They are breeding quite prolifically. There don't seem to be many out and about at the moment, But I'll get some close-ups. So if you have any questions about the fish or shrimp, Let me know. OK, let's talk about the hardscape quickly. Just the sand on Iwagumi. This roughly translates to a three-stone rock garden. A very popular style of Iwagumi in aquascaping, A very classic style with just three rocks, of course, a main rock and then two supporting rocks. This is siriyu stone, or mini-landscape rock, or Ryu Stone. And it's really important to get the composition right. Make sure you have a really high-impact main stone, of course, And then make sure your supporting stones are properly positioned and in an appropriate size and texture. Not quite so important right now, of course, because the plants are pretty much covering everything, But when a new setup, you really want that hardscape to be as attractive as possible to give you that lovely impact. This type of rock or stone, It actually leaches some calcium, some carbonates, So keep that in mind. This is more effective if you have a soft-water aquarium. I have very hard water. I think it's around 350 parts per million TDS, totally dissolved solids, which is on the very hard side. If you're very lucky enough, Plants and tropical aquariums tend to fare better with softer water. Most fish prefer softer water. If you're lucky to have softer water, then you'll have more noticeable impact of that rock, Especially because you'll be injecting CO2. That CO2 dissolves into carbonic acid, And then that carbonic acid will actually start eating away at your rock, and your rock will literally get smaller and smaller. Then, as a consequence of the dissolving rock, the minerals will be in the water, and then you'll increase your hardness, Your pH, and potentially your KH as well. So that's the rocks in a nutshell. Let me know if you have any questions about the hardscape. Let's go straight to the plants. There's quite a few different species in here, And it's evolved over the months. That's one of the beauties of this aquascape. I've really enjoyed just messing around with different plants and putting them in different positions, experimenting. When you have a high-energy system like this, with powerful lighting, CO2 injection, liquid fertilizers, good quality of soil, good circulation, You can grow pretty much any plant you want. And if you have fast-growing weeds, like we do here, Those plants are going to grow very, very fast. And we do have some of the fastest growers available here, And we'll go through each species in turn. Let's start with the background plants. The most prominent you can see there, This is Ludwigia... I never knew how to pronounce it. Reepens or Reppens. I say Reepens, you say Reppens. Who knows? So Ludwigia, Reepens, Rubin, and I are going to go to the hospital. all plants are supplied from Tropica Aquarium Plants, with support also from Aquarium Gardens. So grateful to those guys. The red stem plant, the Ludwigia, very easy, fairly fast-growing, Especially in this setting, as discussed. It is red in color, especially under good light. Most red plants tend to do better with good light, And the reason for that is they lack chlorophyll. Chlorophyll is typically the chemical in the plant that's responsible for making it green. And it's also responsible for photosynthesis. So if there's less chlorophyll, it won't be as efficient at photosynthesizing, and therefore you need more light, And that's one of the reasons you'll find Most red plants tend to prefer more light. But that said, this species of Ludwigia will grow in a simple tank without CO2. You just won't get that intense red coloration. You could also try Ludwigia palustris super red. It's arguably even faster-growing. It's a little more chaotic, and it's branching. Reppens Rubin tends to grow more ornamentally, Like a straight-up pattern, without too much sideshooting. So that's quite interesting. But a beautiful focal point plant, as you can see. I've got it growing around the background And they creep to the left, and to the right, too. Just to make it less symmetrical. We don't tend to go for too much symmetry in our aquascapes. The plant here on the left, this is Heteranthera zostifolia. Very, very fast growing once it gets going. Quite chaotic in its growth pattern. Pretty beautiful, actually, when you see it growing properly. I just let it grow a little crazy. I don't even use scissors anymore. I literally just pull, pull out little stems as required to keep it under control. A similar story, really, with the Hygrophila polysperma Right here. Now, this is an invasive plant, I believe, in North America, So you might not be able to get hold of it. It is available, I think, in all European countries. I'm not sure about Asia. But it is a very fast growing plant. It's great for the beginning of an aquascape. when algae is quite likely. Always try to plant at least a few species of easy, fast growers at the beginning of an aquascape's life To help fight off that algae. If you think about algae and plants, They're always kind of in a battle with each other, always in a constant kind of competition. The more plants you have, the faster they're growing, the healthier those plants are, the less chance of algae you get. That's a top tip for you. So try to plant heavily and at least some fast-growers as well. So that's the three background plants, All stem plants, all easy, all fast growing. Let's move on to the foreground plants. We have a real mess here. We got some of the Helanthium codrico status. This is a very fast-growing carpeting plant, relatively large leaves for a carpeting plant. It sends out runners very prolifically and it will soon overtake your aquarium if left unchecked. Quite nutritionally hungry, and I can tell you that for sure because some new growth here is almost white in color, indicating that this aquarium is starved of nutrients. So even though we have a nutrient-rich substrate and we're dosing 10ml of liquid fertilizer a day, We're still seeing some nutrient deficiency there. So if I was to keep this tank running longer, I'd probably add at least another 5ml. The amount of liquid fertilizer per day to ensure The Helanthium doesn't get too unhealthy. We do have some Helanthium talilum red. This is actually from Dennerle, not Tropica. Tropica doesn't stock this. All the species here are one-two grown, except for the Polysperma and the Ludwigia, and the Aerocalon. So about half of the species. We'll talk about the others in a minute. with a total content of more than 80% by weight of starch, and we also have the Helanthium talilum green, Very similar. The green tends to be a faster grower, very bright green, tends to have slightly larger leaves as well, and carpets much faster than the red. But the red is beautiful, especially under high light. It's not going so well in here. Because it's been smothered by the other plants. We'll talk about those next. We have Aerocalon Vietnam. I had a little trouble with this. Lots of BBA growing on it. A lot of old parts from an old setup from aquarium gardens. I think it didn't have the best start in life Because it was used to the conditions in aquarium gardens. It obviously grew submerged. You bring that to another tank with a slightly different water chemistry, and it can struggle to adapt. I think maybe the reason is some algae. It's a slower growing than the other plants as well, The algae will be more prominent so on the slowest growing species in your aquarium. That's another observation for you. Other species... I did have hairgrass in here, But I think it's pretty much been out-competed by all the other plants, Which is a lesson in itself. It doesn't mean that... It's really interesting. If you set up this exact aquascape at home, you might have very different results. It depends on your water chemistry, the system you're using, the lighting, plants, fertilizers, soil. It's an infinitely complex system, really. So many variables. It's impossible to tell you. How to achieve exactly the same results. It's almost impossible to repeat these things over and over again. It's the magic of a planted aquarium. I love that. You never really know what you're gonna get. - Whatever you want. I think that's it for the... I did have some Sagittaria subulata in there. I think that's the tall... There are some tall, weedy plants in the back. I'll get some close-ups of these, of course. Trimming has literally been Using my fingernail and thumb to remove the large stems in the back, And then literally using some curved scissors and just hacking the foreground. In fact, now that I think about it, that's potentially what's been causing the algae, Because if you hack certain plants, The leaf isn't designed to be hacked. It's designed to be removed. from the growth, the crown, the rootstock. So if you don't do that and you just cut the leaf, the leaf is then injured, And then the plant puts a lot of energy into repairing that leaf rather than growing a new one. As the plant is using a lot of energy to do that, It's not using energy to grow, And therefore it leaves the door open If you have any questions about the plants, Okay, before we get to the end of this video, Just talk about maintenance very briefly. We've already discussed how I trim the plants. Every week, Yes, once a week in average, I've been doing at least a 50% water change in here. I just use my tap water. I have a long hose. That goes to my tap or faucet In the kitchen. I get the temperature right. and as the water is going, the fresh water is going in, I use the Oase dehydrator. To take the water out, I have another long hose. which siphoned directly into my garden, Feeds the lawn, feeds the plants, And then I use watering cans as well to feed the houseplants which absolutely love old aquarium water. Top tip if you're not aware of that already. So that's maintenance in a nutshell. I use the liquid fertilizer every day. using the estimative index type method. As I explained, that liquid fertilizer that is a comprehensive liquid fertilizer. It contains all the nutrients that the plants need including nitrogen and phosphorus. I clean the filter every week. the pre-filter that is. I haven't cleaned the actual inside this filter yet And I think it's been running for at least six months. The great thing about the pre-filter Is that you know for sure that the internals of that filter are going to be relatively clean every week which I do. Other maintenance is cleaning the glassware which we've talked about. Cleaning the hoses. Nobody likes to see dirty brown hoses or glass. And yeah, Cleaning the outside of the glass, of course. The inside of the glass with a scraper. I got an ADA scraper. I got a algae magnet. Which I don't tend to use on this. And a Dennerle cleaner. and a toothbrush. So different tools for different parts of the glass. Like I said, So that's the maintenance. If you have any questions about maintenance Drop me a question in the comments. So, the final chapter. This will be stripped down Probably this afternoon. If I have the energy Or tomorrow. and I'll be planning my next aquascape. So excited about this one. I've been putting it off for years. Some of you may have a clue What I'm going to do next. It's going to be a Full on obeying all the rules Dutch style water scenery. I already know what some of you are thinking. This tank is too small for Dutch style. But you can still apply the same rules. It's not going to win any contests. It's too small really. to get the best out of a Dutch style. But I just wanted to hone my skills in something relatively easy to set up. Relatively low cost the amount of plants I need etc. and something that is more accessible to you guys at home. I just realized I've been looking at the screen and not the lens. That's really naughty. Sorry about that. Probably need to do all that again, don't I? You'll see. So yes, I will be aquascaping This Dutch style sticking to the rules. The rules are pretty strict. Let me show you. So very privileged to have access to the NBAT. The NBAT is the Netherlands Board I'm embarrassing myself now. I can't remember what it stands for. The NBAT translates to Dutch Association Aquaterra. I have all the rules. translated into English. I used Google Translate so you can upload a whole PDF and then Google can translate it for you. And it is. It's pretty mental. Don't say "mental". It's pretty intense the rules. I'll read some of them out. Just as an example. Just to give you an idea. But I will be doing a very very comprehensive series of videos of exactly how I create The Dutch style aquascape. I'm gonna take you through every step of the way the planning The the planning, plant selection The design, I'm going to do drawings I'm going to ensure the plant species are completely appropriate the number of species, where exactly They're going to be planted the trimming technique how many stems per 10 centimetres It's just absolutely incredible the amount of detail you can go into. And this is something I've avoided until now because I don't like rules that much. But I thought you knew what lean into your discomfort That's how you grow That's how you become a better plant grower. A better horticulturist is by trying new techniques And the rules are designed to get the absolute optimal health of fish and plants in perfect balance as well as the aesthetics. I'm just going to do something random. The question is Are the plants well developed? So this is a judging guideline for people's homes And they actually inspect the aquarium And they have this massive checklist of things And they check so much detail Like how far away is the aquarium From the wall? Is there enough ventilation? Does it fit the surrounding living space? Are the electrical cables neatly stowed? Really detailed stuff. And I kind of love that I think there's a sense of freedom In that Because you know exactly How to do that? and not be confused by the ambiguity of not knowing exactly what to do So there's a paradox of freedom there. Whereas the nature aquarium style which is very much free flowing and using the essence of nature and inspiration from nature Which let's face it Nature is like completely How do you interpret nature? Nature is so diverse And so complex potentially Where do you get your inspiration from? Is it from underwater scenes? It can be quite confusing Especially if you want to go into the competition level And if you look at the latest Nature aquarium contest layouts They're just absolutely incredible. I couldn't do anything like that. And I don't think I want to Because... For me that's not part of the hobby I enjoy that. I don't do the hobby to compete I do it to share And that's why I'm doing Dutch style There's a huge ramble there. That's me. back to 7.1 7.1 the plant should grow as naturally as possible without deformities or other abnormalities that indicate developmental delay in brackets cold leaves long internodes and the distance between where the leaves are protruding from that stem This Ludwigia repens so ruby You're looking between each node You're looking at about 12mm as the plant gets more towards the light that internode length is going to reduce Because it gets more compact So this is really interesting And you need to know this. If you want to compete You need to be prepared. with a maximum size of that is achievable in a community aquarium if plants lack nutrients e.g. nitrogen This can be seen as too small Interesting. So the NBAT was formed I think in 1930 It's actually a really lovely poem I'll read it to you. on my next video So that's what's going to go in here. I'll show you all the mistakes I'll show you all the successes And I'm excited to share it with you. I haven't been so excited. about creating an aquascape in a long time I do nature aquariums every week. Do it for clients. Do it for workshops Do it for companies I'll do it for myself. I've only done one. Attempt on a Dutch scape It went into the Practical Fishkeeping magazine. But it wasn't Dutch. But it is what it is. It's learning and this is going to be a huge learning curve for me I have contacts. from the Dutch masters I'm not going to. I have been tempted to reach out to these people and give me advice But at the moment I think I want to go alone. Just by reading the rules and some other guidelines with regard to other guidelines I can't read properly. I know it's using trees But I just don't like Looking at a screen No longer than I have to. I can't read anymore. Less than 10 minutes It's probably an ADHD thing. I printed it out. these guidelines Vin Cutty is a legend. American plant expert He's very well known. in the plant hobby circles over in the USA He created this. Really great article. He gave me permission. to share some of it as well But this is actually a deeper guideline on the aesthetics of creating Dutch Whereas the ENBAT Guidelines are all to do with the health of the system There are some guidelines composition around of species etc. And a funny story for you. I think it's fun. I actually got ChatGPT Compared to the Dutch ENBAT rules With Vin Cutty's rules and guidelines And I'll tell you all about it. in the Dutch video Coming soon. Probably in a couple of weeks. Next time you see this tank It's going to be empty. And we'll do a full step by step The Commission has Dutch scape The first video is probably I'm just going to plan it. and how I choose the plants It's going to be super geeky. Some of you watching won't be interested. Hopefully those who are watching at this point in the video which is probably at least 30 minutes or so. I 'll be interested. So I'm interested And if I'm interested Hopefully you guys will be interested So I've got the house to myself today. other than dogs And it's really weird It's really quiet. There's not much road noise. It's actually pretty spooky. Normally you have some music on in the background or some airpods in but to sit in silence It's actually quite refreshing. In a world full of modern notifications And everything is competing for your attention So if you like what you see From me Do that thumbs up Subscribe if you haven't already Share the video With someone who might be interested There will be a workshop Date to be decided It kind of depends on you guys actually So the idea is rather than you coming to my house to watch me escape You come to my house And you run for your lives There's going to be 3 slots available 3 slots available And you have the opportunity to create a 25cm fish tank Low iron glass with a diameter of not more than 30 mm and hang on the back filter You'll get the full substrate system full hardscape It's entirely up to you. What do you want to use? almost unlimited selection and the same with aquarium plants So most of the tropical ones 3 slots 6 hours Really nice lunch. catering, all refreshments as well You create this landscape with me. Or for yourself with my guidance You can have as much guidance Or as little guidance as you like. We'll go to the aquarium gardens. to choose the plants and the harsh landscape and the substrates Really great fun. You can take the hardscape and plants And everything. Fill it with water Drain it again. wrap it with a film You can take that home. I've done it before. You can put it in the front of your car Seatbelt on, drive carefully Take it home. And then you have a beautiful aquarium In your home Created with me It's going to look beautiful. It's going to be some beautiful food. I love to cook. I love to chat about aquariums. and philosophy and psychology and wellness and fitness and nutrition Maybe not so much politics. But I think it'll be really cool And I want to invite everyone That's watching this right now The price is not cheap Because you have to pay for my time and the materials etc. So it's £549 I do believe that is still the minimum Built with me I hope you can make it. If you are genuinely interested You're probably going to be UK only Because it's going to be difficult To take that aquarium home with you. unless you are in the UK If you are interested Then drop me an email. There is a contact email address in the description of this video As with all the videos It's info at georgepharmastudios.com I won't put it on the screen. Otherwise I'll get billions of spam emails Like I usually do. But do hit me up on an email Or you can Facebook message me at georgepharmastudios. If you're on Facebook That's the two methods You can get me. If you're interested, let me know. I do have one guy who looks very promising But if you get there before him There are three slots available. It can be any day of the week. Probably a weekend. It suits everyone. But let me know. I think it could be really great Create your own nano cube aquarium with me In my beautiful home Have some nice food We'll see about the dogs. They tend to get a little noisy with strangers They're really not aggressive. They're just noisy. But they do calm down eventually We had a really great event last time Ten people, everyone loved it. Great feedback I'm hoping we can do something similar I'm hoping for something even more fun. actually creating a scenery together I hope that wasn't hard to sell. I don't know, let me know. Thanks for watching so far. I really appreciate it. I really enjoyed this one. I'm gonna be sad to see this one go But it's always a mixture of A little sad. But mostly excitement for the next one. And especially because I'm going to be learning So much new stuff about the Dutch style So drop me a comment Anything about this tank Or anything in general about escaping I read all the comments. I'll try to get back to as many of you as I can. And I really appreciate you I appreciate you watching. I appreciate your attention. I know it's hard to get people's attention these days. And I'm going to start rambling right now Take care, see you on the next one. Cheerio, please.