DIY End Table Build (Easy to build! Digital Plans Available!)

Hey everyone, in today's video I'll be covering how I made this set of end tables. The first thing I did was to cross cut the legs to length using a pine 2x3 on my miter saw. Next, I cut a 1x4 inch furring strip to length for the side aprons. After everything was cut to length, I made one side frame using the pieces that I just cut. I left a gap on the bottom the width of a 2x3, and then the shelf on the top was flush with the top of the legs. I left a gap just over the width of a 1x4 on each side, and then I secured the apron pieces on with glue and brad nails. If you'd like to follow along and make this table for yourself, the dimensions of all the boards that I'm using can be found in the description. Once the first frame piece was finished, I went ahead and made a second frame piece. The dimensions and the measurements are exactly the same as the first frame. Next, I used another 1x4 to cross cut more apron pieces that would connect the two frame pieces together. Similarly before, I attached these apron pieces with glue and then also brad nails. If you can, try to keep everything square as this will help the table top and the bottom shelf line up better. So with the last brad nails in, the main frame of the table is completed. Next, I stained the table using Minwax Early American Wood Stain. I wasn't too picky here about trying to get a perfect finish for the stain, as I did plan on painting over this. A few days later, once the stain was dry, I painted over the stain using Latex White Paint and a Home Right Super Finish Max Paint Sprayer. The next day after the paint had dried, I distressed the paint using 80 grit sandpaper. When distressing with the sander, I focus on the edges and the corners and try to make the pattern look as random as possible. For the table top and the bottom shelf, I once again used the 1x4 inch furring strips. The slats for the top and the shelf were then stained with Early American. And as the overall feel for these tables was more rustic or distressed, I once again wasn't worried about getting a perfect finish. The surface of the furring strips is definitely a little rougher than appearance board, so if anything, this actually helped with the rustic look a little bit more. I wiped off any extra stain and then I let the boards dry for a few days. Next, I placed the slats on the apron and I just evenly spaced these out the best I could. Just by looking at them, I actually didn't measure them. The boards were then secured in place using brad nails. One thing to remember when using brad nails is to try to point the nail gun towards the inside of the table. That way, if there's any spring out from the brad nail, it'll be hidden within the inside of the table rather than come on the outside of the apron. Also, keep your fingers away from where the brad nail goes. In case there is spring out, you do not want the brad nail to come out and go in the side of your finger. And with the last brad nail in place, that'll finish up this set of tables. Here's a closer look and a few shots of what the tables look like when they're finished. If you liked this video and used the dimensions to make your own table, be sure to leave me a thumbs up and a comment for how your tables turned out. As I mentioned earlier, the dimensions for all the boards and for everything can be found in the description. But if you do have any questions, let me know in the comments. Otherwise, I hope you enjoyed this video and thanks for watching. Be sure to check out some of my other videos that often include free plans and dimensions, and stay tuned for more.