Repairing the Non-Working Plasma Displays On a 1986 Williams PIN*BOT Pinball Machine!

Ladies and gentlemen, this is Joe's Classic Video Games back with another cool pinball repair video for you today. We are back here in the dungeon in the back of the store. Joey went and bought a pinbot yesterday. Such a cool game and the gentleman we got it from had been working on it and he's got it playing good. He's got the play field looking pretty good. I'll show you more over here in a minute. It's in pretty good shape. All the lights work and everything. The sound works, but he couldn't get the displays working. So when the thing comes up, everything plays, everything's cool, but the displays never come on. And he said he figured out that it was a voltage problem, but he couldn't get it. So we're going to see if we can get it. Now it may be that it still needs new displays because they may be messed up. You know, they may not be savable. But if it's a voltage thing, we got to at least try it first. So normally we go through and we do what we're going to do to them and do it all kind of in order. But I kind of want to do the displays first, since it's already up and running, just to see if it's going to be something that we need to order parts for, or if we need to order new displays for, or if we can get away with just replacing one display, or what the deal is. So we're trying to figure out what all we're going to need ahead of time. So in this video, we're going to try to fix those displays one way or the other. So what I'll do is I'll put it down on the ground. We'll turn it on. I'll show you what it does, which is basically the displays don't work. And then we'll figure out, I'm sure there's probably a blown fuse or something. We'll see if we can track down what the deal is. Got something going on. It might be saying, yeah, I think it was saying, hey dummy, the batteries are dead. Yeah, it appears to be up and running. Most of the lights appear to be working. A few of them's out, but the displays are definitely out, people. Okay, so first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to pop the back glass off and then we'll see what we're looking at. Okay, these are the ones with separate little boards, but the ones that have a ribbon cable that goes on the boards. Okay, I'm going to lighten it up for you. Brighten it up for you. We're already a light this can be. Alright, so this is the little board that runs all of the displays and it needs certain voltages to run. It gets those certain voltages on this little connector here. And those voltages come from over here. This little connector or one of the connectors on this power supply board. So that's going to be our problem. So there's going to be a fuse, which I believe is this top one here. It looks blown to me. That top fuse is probably blown. There's been some screwery going on on the capacitors there too. It looks like they have a What the hell are they doing? Yeah, that's going to be our issue. So it looks like there's a wire connecting both sides of the capacitor together or something. That would definitely do it. Okay, so we're going to pull that power supply out and look at it. Now it could be though, there is a chance that the displays themselves are bad and are shorted and are blowing the power supply. So we'll look into that. But what we'll do is when we get it done, we'll test the voltages without anything plugged in. And then that'll tell us if the power supply is fine. And it is something on the display board blowing the fuse. So we're going to pull this power supply out and check it over. So here is the power supply. This area down here is the general illumination. So the connector on this always gets burnt. You might've seen it in the game. The little housing was starting to get burnt because of the AC voltage running through it. We're going to check to make sure the fuses are the right value. And then we're going to replace this capacitor and this capacitor and this capacitor. The high voltage fuse is blown. So it supplies the voltage to these two transistors up here, which are kind of weird ones. An MJE15031 and a 15030. And then there are a couple of little diodes there, a couple resistors, a couple transistors, a couple resistors, four more diodes, and these two big capacitors. These two capacitors, that one is fine. I mean, the cap might be bad, but they didn't, they're just using a radial cap, axial cap instead of a radial. So it's fine like that. So here's what we're going to do. I'm going to replace the capacitors. I'm going to replace this filter capacitor on the Williams games. This is like the five volt filter capacitor and this is the voltage regulator for that. So that makes your power more steady. But the high voltage, which is the problem that we're having with the displays, is this area right here. So something in that area is messed up. So I'm going to test it with the multimeter. When something shorts, when a fuse blows, it's always the same thing. I'm going to make it as simple as possible. When a fuse blows, it's always because both sides of your power are touching somehow. So like if it's five volts that that fuse is fusing, it's because your five volts and your ground are touching. Now it could be that there's something making a lot of current draw through, but that's basically the same thing. So the high voltage, something on the output is shorted together. That's why it's blowing the fuse. So if it's on a wire, it could literally be a wire touching, but once it gets on the PCB board, you don't have wires anymore. PCB board. Once it gets on the PCB, you don't have wires anymore. You have traces. So it could be a trace touching or it could be any kind of active discrete component. So like these transistors, the wire that I'm talking about touching could be inside these transistors because it's shorted or it could be one of these diodes is shorted. And so something's either making a draw a ton of current or something's literally shorted the ground. So it's always, you want to look at diodes first, transistors first, things like that. Capacitors can do it if they short internally. So I'll replace these caps that we have, and then I'll start looking in this area and see if I can find anything. Okay, folks. So replace the cap, replace the cap, replace the cap, replace the filter cap. So that's all for the five volt, which wasn't messed up. We're just doing that because since we're taking it out, I don't want to work on this one time. So I want to go ahead and get it ready and put it back in, and then I don't have to worry about the power supply. And ironically, even though we usually, we start at the beginning on our videos and everything and work through the thing, this would have been the first thing we worked on anyway. And it seems like this is where our problem is anyway, right? So up here in the displays, I put these in. These are not axial though. They should be like this, but I don't have any in. The reason that you don't want them like this is because they could potentially touch something else. But in this particular application, it's not that big of a deal. But if you're going to order them, I've already got some in, so I don't have to order them. But if you're going to order some specifically, order the axial ones. They're better than these radial ones. They work exactly the same. It's just, you're worried about the placement of the leads. Potentially that one could short to that, even though it's got a mask on it. So it's just, it's not the perfect choice for that. But they're new now. Okay. So this is divided into two sections. This side makes 100 volts or one of them makes a hundred volts and one of them makes a negative 100 volts. And that's what the displays used to work. So this stuff, see how they look almost identical. This stuff is one of the voltage voltages and this stuff is one of the other voltages. It actually goes the other way. The power comes in from here through the fuse and then to both of these and then is used to create a voltage that comes out of this connector. So there's a hundred and there's a negative 100. And if you will look, I'm going to do it with one hand again. I've got those leads that somebody sent me, but I don't have them right here with me. What we're doing is we're checking diodes and stuff, right? So when I check that diode, which goes over to this left side, we're not getting anything because I've got the red lead on the banded side. And when I check it on this one, we're backwards, but it's shorted. But here's the thing. We're testing it in circuit. So it's shorted both ways. We're testing it in circuit, which means that basically it could be anything connected to it. So it could be any of these diodes or this transistor or this transistor. The two biggest culprits are this one and this one. So the way that we figure it out is we've got to start taking stuff off the board. So I'm going to take this off and test it off out of the board and then we'll see. Now another thing you can do is when you remove a component, you can actually test, since it's shorted right now, you can test the two pads on the board. And if something other than this is causing the problem, once you remove this, the board will still be shorted. So that's what's blowing the fuse. And without that voltage, when this fuse blows, it loses this voltage and that voltage. And if you lose either voltage or have the fuse blown where they're both gone, you end up with displays that don't work. So it's something right here, right? We're getting there. Alright folks, like I said, I don't have my other leads on me right now, but that's shorted. So if you check the actual board with the part missing, we're going to check and see if anything else is shorted. So without that part in it, it's not shorted. And you can do it both ways. So that was because it went from like, nothing. It's not shorted. So apparently that diode is the only problem. Now you can replace these with slightly lower voltage diodes, which I might do. But if I've got this original one, I'm just going to swap in the new one and see if we can fix it with one little ten cent part. So this is a 1N4764A. So some people put, there's a different number you can do that changes the voltage so that it runs off 91 volts instead of a hundred volts. But you have to change both, right? Which is super easy to do. Might be a good idea, but we're going to see if we can just put in one of these. Let me see if I've got one. I can't see if I've got one up there. If I've got one of these, we're just going to put that one in and see if that fixes it. I have them. Look at this. Check it out, people. 100 volt diode. Bam, bam, bigelow. The only thing is, like I was saying, some people put 91 volt ones in it. But the problem is if you lower the voltage a little bit, if your displays are weak, it makes them look even worse. So in a house, you don't really need to worry about it too much because the problems these had where they were left on 24 hours a day for five years, that's a problem. So that's where your heat problems come from and everything. If you've got it in your house and you turn it on for a couple of hours once a week or something like that, I mean, it's not that big of a deal. So I'm going to go ahead and replace that. Now there's other things you can do. You can replace these two resistors with flame-proof resistors and things like that. But we're going to replace one diode and see if that fixes it. So here's our final result. Upon checking the rest of the stuff before I put it in the board, the MJE15030 was bad too, which is the one right above it. So something catastrophic could happen there, which this is pretty typical if you've got voltage display problems. It'll either be these two or these two. So pop the new one in, new diode in. I high watered it a little bit for heat circulation purposes. And we're ready to put it in. I re-soldered all the connectors on the back. So the power supply, if the display voltages work, should be done. Shouldn't have to do anything else with it. I'm going to check all the fuse voltage values though before we pop it in. Okay, so I popped it back in. I put the fuse back in and I unplugged the displays. So we're going to turn it on and see if it blows the fuse without the displays plugged in. It does not. Okay, so now I'm going to check the voltages very carefully. It's saying something like open door or something. I might have just put it in test. There we go. Okay, so I'm going to test for the 100 volt and the negative 100 volt. And I need two hands for that. I'll be back in a second. Okay, so I measured it. We had negative 104 and positive 104. So it's a little bit high but there's really no way to adjust it unless you change those diodes we were talking about. It's probably because the input voltage is a little bit higher than what the transformer is wired to do. I guess it has a transformer. I don't know. Okay, so we're going to turn it off. Never plug the displays in when the power is on. Bad idea. You will fry all kinds of stuff. Like what we just replaced. That's the kind of stuff that happens when you do that. So we're going to turn it off, plug that back in and then we'll see if any of the displays work. Okay, it's plugged back in. Let's turn it on. Watch the fuse. Fuse didn't blow. Have we got anything? Oh hell, we got something. Adjust the switch for the Vortec. Got a little something to work on here. Got one of them is a little bright but that's all right. Let's see if I can get a... They're trying. We definitely got some issues. So that one on the top is probably outgassed. This one may be too. No, that one may be all right actually. So the top left one has a digit locked on. The top right one is probably messed up. Probably outgassed. The bottom left one probably doesn't work and the bottom right one is probably fine. All of that ghosting is probably on the control board. So next thing we need to do, we need to mess with this. But we got our displays coming back. Okay folks, in my stash I have found some displays that I've been saving. I believe these work but I don't know. Maybe they do, maybe they don't. So that's an alphanumeric. The top two are alphanumeric and the bottom two are just numeric. That's an alpha. That's an alpha. We might be in trouble. We might have to order some and this is a ball ball and credit display. Hmm, I didn't notice if that was working. So I'm going to take these out and we'll plug them into the ones that aren't doing anything. Wait a minute, that wasn't our top two working? We'll see what we got. We'll try plugging some in and see if these even work and then see what we've got working and what we don't. Sometimes, and again it can be that display board too. We're going to have to work on it for sure, but sometimes you can move them around like put the second player where the first player goes and the first player where the second player goes. And you can do that sometimes by just moving the cables and see if it's an issue with the display or the board. So if you've got a display that works fine when it's plugged into the first player but when you plug it into the second player it doesn't work fine, well then that's not a problem with the display. There's something going on on the control board. So let me see if I can figure out what we're messing with and move a couple around and see if I get something. I'm going to write down what I specifically figure out. Like first player works, second player never works no matter what display is plugged in, etc. etc. Okay, so this is the best so far I've been able to get it. So the right... He sees me. The right top one I just swapped with a tested working one that I have and basically the glass on the old one was bad. The right bottom one still worked. The top left one is messed up but that's going to be something on the master board. The ball and credit one down at the bottom, swapped the one that I had. Everything looked good. Everything worked good so the old one the glass is bad or it's got bad solder or something. I looked at it though I don't see any solder problems. So I've got four that work. The left bottom numeric one does not work and so I swapped the cables to plug it in where the fourth player one plugs in and it still doesn't work so it's not a problem on the master display. It's that board itself so it's probably the glass. There's only like two things that can go wrong with those boards. The glass can be messed up or you can have a bad solder joint. So hopefully we'll have a bad solder joint but I'm not too confident in that. So the thing I'm going to do next is that top left one the zero is on. I don't even think that's supposed to be there. Maybe though. And the digit just to the left of it. Those are seven digit displays and so the sixth digit never has anything on it and the seventh one always has a zero on it. So whenever it says it's actually trying to say the right thing but it's just the zero is stuck on as well. So the sixth and seventh digits are screwed up and that's going to be on the master display. If I plug that one in if I plug that one in over here and that one over here it would do the exact same thing. That's my theory at least. Pin bot rules. Yeah so you can see the letter that it's trying to display inside of the zero. The zero is just stuck on. So that should be an E. Okay so I'm going to pull out that master display board and we'll look at it. All right folks so here is the master display. There are many different variations of this depending on the game so but they all kind of do something similar or maybe there's not a ton of different variations. I know two or three at least though. So here's what we're looking at. Notice there is a resistor burnt up there. See it? R23. So I'm looking in the schematics and in the schematics I found way down here R23 controls one of the segments on the credit and match display which looked fine to me but maybe not. So maybe I'm going to replace that resistor for sure because it's all smoked up. So I've noticed that and then if you come up here you see connector, excuse me, connector 4J2 sends strobes in from the CPU board. They go through some chips here at U7 and U8 and they come up here and the same signals connect to digit 1 and digit 3. Now remember digit 3, they're not working but I swapped the glasses that the third display didn't work no matter where it was. So what I'm trying to figure out is, is it this chip that's bad? Because remember the sixth digit is off and the seventh digit has some segment problems. It's almost like the seventh one's locked on all the time or something. But anyway, so is it this one or is it these back here? Well if it was these back here you would see problems on the third display too which we do but it's not, it's the glass. So I think what I'm going to do is I'm going to pop it back in for a second and I'm going to move the fourth display over to the third one just to make sure that this board is capable of displaying the third display. So further testing is appropriate. Okay folks, so interestingly enough whenever you put the fourth display where the third display goes, the master board will not display anything on the third display no matter which one it is. The fourth display, the display that was on the third display though is also bad. So we've got one good alphanumeric and it works only if it's in the fourth player position. So these strobes come in one through eight. They come through here and they connect to this which runs player one and they also connect to this which runs player three which we both have, we have digit problems on both. So this one seems to be locked on so I don't know. We're going to we're going to get the multimeter and see if we can test any of these and tell with the multimeter if any of them are shorted and we're also going to test U7 and U8. So it's U5, U6, U7 and U8 appear to be problem childs. Okay so I'm going to show you some tricks that if you screw around with these enough you can figure out. Okay so these lines come in and the first thing they go to is U7 and U8 like we were talking about. Those say they are TC4001BP. Now I have no idea what the hell that is. I have no clue what that chip is but you saw on the schematics that it was a triangle shape which means that it's a some kind of inverter or something you know whatever. I don't need some kind of gate. I don't even need to know what it is right. On any of these kind of chips sometimes you can test them with a multimeter just by screwing around. So there are one, two, three, four, there's at least four of them here that are the same chip. So you can test by comparing things to each other. Now if the design of the circuit is not exactly the same then you might get different different results but this is exactly the same. I mean it's the same thing. So what I do is you look for a trace, a fatter trace because that's going to your power pin right or your ground. So you see these caps here that are across. That's probably five and that's probably ground. So since the five goes to this one what I usually do is you put the opposite lead on it. So I've got it on cell and diode test and I'm going to put the ground lead, the black lead on that pin and then you can go and just check the other pins. So between that pin that I've got ground on and pin one I get 0.756, 0.636, 0.672, 0.757, 0.636, 0.505. Now why am I getting 0.505? It's probably because that's the ground pin over here. So I'm basically checking across the cap which is true. That's what's going on. So pin seven and pin fourteen are where the power and the ground are. But anyway as I checked with my black lead on what I believe is the power pin to the other pins at least on these first six I got between 0.5 and 0.7ish around that area. So you know like a gate usually if you're testing it with a diode test it'll either be shorted which is lower than one oh I mean a 0.1 or something or it'll be high which is higher than 0.7, 0.8 something like that. So I'm getting all and then if it's between 0.4ish and 0.7ish then there's some kind of gate action there. It's like it's trying to reverse a signal or combine two signals or whatever. Obviously I'm not educated on this. I'm just screwing around right. But I'm just telling you what works for me. Well I got four different chips here and this one next to it is exactly the same. It's in the same kind of setup and everything. So if I do the same thing on this one I'm basically just comparing two similar circuits. 0.755, 0.636. So to me 0.636 you heard it even beep. That means that there is a voltage drop that is appropriate. You go to the third one, 0.675, four it's the same, 0.675, 0.760. Now that's a little high right. But I got a couple of them that were like that on the other one too. So it's kind of in the ballpark. I'm looking for things that are obviously wrong, obviously shorted, or obviously open. The sixth one is back down to 0.635. So we're doing U8, U7, U6, U5. We know our problems are here. So we run through. Let's check the rest of them on U8. 0.754, 0.635, 0.702, 0.670, 0.755, 0.634. So that one to me nothing was shorted, nothing was obviously open. There may have been some of those that were up above 0.7 might have been a problem. I don't know. But I also had some over here that were and we know this side's working. Okay, so let's move up to U7. Then we're going to do the same thing because it's the same exact type of chip. 0.753, 0.634, 0.673, 0.672, 0.755, 0.634. There's our across the cap. 0.752, 0.634, 0.015. That's shorted all to hell. So that's definitely shorted. That's probably our digit that is always on or it's our digit that's always off. 0.633. Let's try this one over here just to make sure that this other one doesn't do that. Yeah, see this one doesn't do it. So this chip, two of the pins, what I think is the five is shorted to one of the pins. But we don't know for sure that it's that chip. It might be one of these chips because it looks like it comes out of here as you saw in the schematics and it connects to both of these 6118s. Same thing. I don't know how 6118 works but if a pin's shorted that ain't right. So what I need to do is I need to take this TC4001 off of the board. If it doesn't work, I'm going to have to try to find another one. So I'm going to take it off very carefully so that we can reuse it. I don't know if I've got any 4001s. In front of me here I have tons of ICs that I've ordered for things over the years and I've got them all sorted out and numbered and everything. And some of this stuff I actually have. We actually had a gentleman a while back who, oh I shouldn't be touching that. I forgot. ESD. Everybody's always telling me don't touch it. Do not touch it. I probably just fried three or four of them by poking them. Anyway, we had a gentleman a while back send us a whole bunch of old TTL chips which is great because that's what we usually use. I don't see a 4001. I don't even know what that is. But since I've found that problem, now we need to figure out if it's this chip, this chip, or this chip. Because if either one of these were shorted it would also make this one appear to be shorted. So I'm going to pop that one out and then test to see if it's shorted out of the board. And if it is not, then I'll test the two pads on the board to see if they're still shorted. If they are, then I will have to pull one of these and try to make an assumption on which one is screwed up. But that's what we're looking at. So we're figuring it out. I pulled that chip out and it is the chip. The chip itself was actually shorted. So I put another one in, a nice socket on it. And then I also, that resistor that was burnt up, that's a 10k, which I have here. And it still measures 10k, but it might not be under load measuring 10k. So I replaced it with a slightly bigger one, a little half water. And then that signal comes from here, this UN, U9, which is a 7180. So I did the same thing. I checked it with the diode and I compared it to this one over here. And we get kind of similar readings. So it doesn't seem like the chip itself is messed up, but the resistor was messed up. So what could have happened there was that the glass that was in it had a short in it that was pulling a bunch of current through that resistor. I don't know. What I do know is we're going to pop it back in and see what happens. So keep your fingers crossed. I'll put it back in the machine and hopefully that'll make our Player 1 and our Player 3 act right. Okay, so I put it back in and we still don't have Display 3. Display 1, the 7th digit is back. The 8th digit is no longer, I mean the 7th digit is no longer locked on. The 6th digit is back, but it is the wrong information. So we're getting there. But I'm on to trying to find why the 3rd display isn't working. So that's what we're doing next. So when the digit data comes through, it comes through these two chips. So replacing this one, what we accomplished was we got the 7th digit to light back up and we got the 8th digit, I mean we got the 6th digit on the first display to light back up. And we got the 7th digit to no longer be locked on and displaying weird stuff. So it's cleaner and all the digits are working on, now remember these control Player 1 and Player 3. Player 3 though is dead, not doing anything. So it then goes to these UDN6118 chips and it's the same situation. You've got two here that do the same thing. This is Player 2, this is Player 4, this is Player 1, this is Player 3. So this particular one, U6, is the Player 3 one that we're having trouble with. So again, I don't even know really about, I think those are, I don't even know what the proper word is for them. But they're on most of the displays that have something to do with turning on the digits. I think they do the digits in the 7180s do the segments. So anyway, all you need to do, same thing, put it on, diode test. So this last pin here kind of looks to me like a ground. You could look it up and figure it out, but it's coming from, it looks like down here where this ground was. So we're going to do the same thing. So the voltage drop between it and pin 1 is 0.696, 0.694, 0.656, 0.656, 0.656, all similar, 0.693, 0.656, 0.689. So if you look at the data sheet or the schematics, it looks like all the inputs come in on these bottom chips, and then on the other side is the outputs. So if you compare it to the one that we know to be working, it's the same type of thing. All your inputs are the same. Now notice it's a different number, but it's in the same ballpark. Now if you go to the outputs, it gets a little more tricky. So between 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, pin 10, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, okay, so we've got our red probe on pin 9 because we think it's the ground. Between it and pin 10, we're getting 0.52. Pin 11 is 0.69. Pin 12 is 0.69. 13 is really high, 1.9. Okay, the next one is open. It's not, there's no connection there, the way we're testing it at least. The next one is 0.753. The next one is open, open, open. So we've got several there though that are weird. We've got weird measurements. Okay, so let's jump over to this one. We did the inputs. I believe these are outputs. That's about the same. And now we're open, open, open, open, open. None of these have a reading, at least testing it like this, but this one did, and we suspect this one. So if we jump up to one of these other ones, it's the same thing. If you do the inputs, they're similar, right? We believe these chips to be fine, right? So let's check out the outputs. I think that's probably the 5 volt. This would be an output, output, output, output, output, output. So that's two of them so far that we think are working that the outputs don't have any reading testing it like this. Yeah, so these three chips all test the same. This one is the Player 3 one, and it tests different. So you don't really have a way of knowing, or I don't have a way of knowing, what the voltage drop should be, but I do know that all four of them are the same, and three of the displays are working, and the other one isn't. So I mean, you know, I could have just guessed and said, hey, it's got to be that chip looking at the schematics, but if you test it, it kind of seems like it's got to be that chip, right? So that's a UDN 6118. I think I've got those. I'm gonna swap it. We're closer. We're still missing that sixth digit. It was kind of blinking on earlier whenever we were, before we did that last 6118. See, it's the sixth digit in both of these. This glass is the glass that was there. So the glass and the board was bad. So we're close. We're very close. We're very close. And the resistor that was burnt up was making this digit not be there. I think I said it was a segment or something, but for whatever reason, whenever we did the last thing, swapped the 6118, it made this digit come back as well. Okay, so we still got to figure out, why would the sixth segment be missing from the one and the three? Okay, so I busted out the actual paper manual because you can read it a little bit better. So digits on three, this is what we just saved. See how it says strobe one through strobe eight and there is a hash mark after it, as opposed to strobe one through strobe eight on this one, and there's no hash mark after it. But see both of those chips are solely fed by the same U7 and U8 that we looked at earlier. So it gets data from the CPU, comes in, goes through U7 and U8, and it runs one and three. So this one, everything was missing. Okay, so strobe one through strobe eight. If you want follow it, comes over here and it goes down and runs player three, but strobe one is missing. So strobe two through strobe eight with a hashtag or what run player three. So where did strobe one go? It went down here, strobe one, and ran the tens credit digit on the credit and match display. That's why we got that one digit back whenever we replaced that. Okay, so our resistor was R23, which was B1, which is B1 on the credit match display. So I don't remember what, you know, there's a little chart sometimes where it shows you which one is which. Let's see if I can find it. There it is. So B is the top right segment. That was never a problem on the credit and coin display. So I think that resistor was burning up, but hadn't burned up yet. So that's that. So now our new problem, our latest problem, is digit seven is missing. Okay, on the one and the three. So what does that tell you? Well, the three's outputs never go to player one, and the one's outputs never go to player three, or do they? Or are they? All right, so strobe two through eight, that is number one. Yeah, okay. So one and three do not talk to each other at all. They don't connect to the same thing ever, but their inputs are the same. So strobe one up there, or let's do it on the third one. Strobe one up there we know is the tens digits on the coin display, or the credit display, whatever, or the match, whatever. Okay, so strobe two through eight are your digits, and we're missing the sixth. I keep saying the seventh. I just got it all confused. You're missing the sixth digit, which I believe is strobe seven. So if you go over here to player three, strobe seven connects to pin fifteen. Pin fifteen is the tens unit, so I am correct. Strobe seven is our problem. We're getting there, folks. We're tracking this crap down. We're gonna get it. So strobe seven is missing, and strobe seven hashtag is missing. So those are both coming from u8 pin 10. Now that's the same damn one we already replaced once. So here's what I think happened. I think this 6118 was fried, and it burned up that chip, which is why the seventh digit was missing on the sixth. Strobe seven was missing on this one, because it had burned up that chip. Remember we found the one that was shorted. I think I put a new one of these in. I mean, I hadn't replaced that chip yet, so the old one was still in there, and it fried the damn new one. That's what I think, but guess what? I got the last laugh, because it's in a socket. So we're going to test it again and see if it's fried again. When I went back out to... I didn't film that part. The one thing I didn't film. Whenever I went back out, the tens digit on this one was working, but it was flickering. It was a little lighter than the other ones, and it was the wrong information. So it wasn't working right. I think it was because this chip was dying. So we're going to test U8 pin 10 again, and if it's bad, we'll put in another one. All right. I must have been wrong. So I said that U8 was the one we'd already replaced. It was not. U7 was the one we replaced, but this is saying U8, right? So I tested it again, and when I got to U8, it had the pin tested as open, not shorted. So we did U7. We were having... Strobe... So when we first started, this is the first player display. Strobe 8 is that 7, which is U7 pin 10. It was shorted. You saw that. U8 pin 10 must have been open, but I didn't catch it or something. I don't know because that was... So U7, the last digit being screwed up where it was doubled and everything, that was because it was shorted. The other one being missing was because it was open, U8 pin 10. So that was our issue. So after I replaced that one, it's yelling at me from back here, from back in the back. After I replaced that one, when I went back, the Strobe 7 was flickering and stuff. So the chip must have been marginal, and then I ESD'd that damn thing to death. And now it's broke, and so I swapped in a new one and it fixed it. So let's go look at the display now. So now I've got three sockets. Pinbutt came out to play. And... Huh? Huh? Huh? What do you think? Huh? When's it going to do my other one? Come on. Come on. There it is. All right, so all of those are fine. Did you just see what it did? It said solar score of, but that's not an alphanumeric. That's a digital one. So they're cheating. They're cheating people. They're doing letters on one that's only supposed to do numbers. So it must have said solar score of 100,000 or whatever. Okay, so we've almost got all of the displays fixed. We're down to one alphanumeric. So this is the alphanumeric that will not work. Now if you look, there is nothing on these things but a piece of glass and a connector. So it could be that the glass is outgassed. It almost looks like I'm looking right inside of it. I don't know, man. Usually you can't see in it like that, I don't think. There's no way really that I know of to test if it's outgassed. Basically, if the gas comes open, it literally outgasses. The gas goes out of it and it's supposed to be sealed. But man, I'm looking up in there, so I don't know if it's sealed up in there or not. It could be that whatever glues it together came apart in certain places and let all the magic juice out. So the only thing that you can do to these really is if there's something obvious, like if a leg's broke, you can solder it back together or something. And I think it's usually these outside two that do the filament. So you can re-solder all of these connections. See how that one isn't soldered to anything? There's just an open hole there. There's nothing that really goes there though. The only ones that matter are the ones that have traces actually running to it. So you can re-solder all of these pins and you can re-solder all these pins, which frankly don't really look all that great. But usually if you have a problem with that, you'll have like a digit that's always missing or something, or one of the segments never lights up or something. But if it's just completely dead, there's a couple pins it can be, but usually the glass is bad. And since we've already had this in Player 3 and Player 4 and it doesn't work in either one of them, it's definitely something on this board. So if I cannot, I'm going to re-solder all of this. If that does not fix it, I'm going to have to find another seven digit numeric display glass. And you can either buy one with the board already on it, or you can carefully take this one off and put a new glass on it. But the problem is they don't make them anymore. So you have to find a new old stock one. So all of that to say, if you want to leave it original. Now we went through all this trouble to work on this thing. So I'd like to, and you know, I swapped in, we already had two displays that were, well three displays counting this one, that were dead. So I swapped in two of the ones that I had that worked that I took out of some other machine. But now I need, I've got one, I still need one left, right? And I don't have another just numerical one that's not alphanumeric. So I could buy one of these, which will probably run me 50 or 60 dollars if I get a used one. You can buy a new old stock glass, but you're talking 60, 70 bucks, just for the glass that you then have to solder into the board, right? Or you can buy a LED set, you can upgrade these to LEDs, but you're talking 150, 200 dollars. So what I'm trying to do is use the last of my old school plasma displays. And once I use these, then when I get the next game in that needs displays, I'll buy LEDs for that one and save those displays for my next one. The reason I even had two or three of these laying around was because we had a, I think it was a Road Kings that we put brand new displays in, or it may have been a high speed. There's only about five games that use this particular board on it. Okay, so I'm going to re-solder everything on this and then we'll plug it back in and see if that fixes anything. I don't think it will, but keep your fingers crossed. Okay, I put the display in, it did not work. That damn thing, the glass is bad. So I was able to buy another one off of a gentleman on the list of video games. By the way, if y'all don't know about that, if you go to the killer list of video games, they have forums on there. Go to klov.com, there's a forum on there. And that's where all the arcade people hang out and a lot of pinball people too. And so a gentleman was on there selling, a few of these tested working, so I was able to buy it. We're going to pop it in and see if that fixes this up and then hopefully we'll be done with our displays. But the one, I ended up with three of them out of there and the problem with all three of them was the glass was bad. So we swapped in tested working ones we had, but it just comes down to the same old thing. The glass goes bad and out gases and then it's useless, so you need a new glass. So we'll pop this one in and see if it works and hopefully that'll get all of our displays doing their thing. Okay folks, we've got them all right. That one on the right at the top is a little lower than the other one, so I might have to mess with that a little bit to get it to mount up in there a little better. But they're all working, so there you go. If you run into issues on your displays, you can buy the LED ones or if you want to tinker with the ones you have, hopefully this will help you figure out some of the common stuff with them. So leave your comments below, let us know what you think. Make sure to give us the thumbs up for taking the trouble to film it for you. And check out my brother Donnie's channel. If you haven't been over there yet, what are you waiting on? The link is down below. It's called My Brother Donnie. He is the craziest of the three of us brothers. He's always getting into something crazy. Lately we've been on there working on our old trucks. What a cool game. So we'll do a whole bunch more videos of this pinball machine, so stay tuned. And we appreciate everybody that's been using our Amazon links down below. We now have international Amazon links, so if you're in the UK or you're in Canada or you're in France or you're in Italy or you're in Germany, we have a link down below for you. We appreciate everybody that's been doing that. If you buy something on Amazon and you click that link before you buy it, it sends us a royalty because we sent you there. So thank you to everybody that's been doing that. And now I'm going to play this pinball a little bit. We haven't worked on it yet, but I think it's up and doing its thing. It just needs gone through and shopped a little bit, but now we've got the displays working. So let us know what you think. Hope you enjoyed the video, and we will see you on the next one.