Let's Save This 1978 Bally Lost World Pinball Machine!

ladies and gentlemen this is Joe's classic video games back with another cool pinball repair video for you today we're gonna start working on this Bally lost world we've done one of these before on video but we figured everybody might enjoy seeing another one we bought these locally off of a guy he had two of them actually and it's basically had a bunch of parts removed and been put into storage and forgotten about for a long time so we're gonna go through it and get it doing its thing again not in the greatest of shape but this one's actually in better shape than the other one so we'll see what we can do with it so the first thing we'll do is I'm gonna get a cart and throw the body up on it and then we'll look inside of it and see what we got going on okay this is what the inside looks like but a few of the score cards and nothing else it's just some of the wiring harness and the playfield the playfield looks pretty good let's see here I don't see anything obvious that looks a little dirty but I don't think it's burnt up it's just typical condition it looks complete I don't see anything major missing even the flippers are there all right so we can work with that but the playfield is not the best at the top so we've got all the plastics it looks like but you can see up here it's pretty filthy got a little bit of draining going on but not too bad but the main problem is someone has put in mylar over dirt so you see we see how the light hits it right there that's the original wax that painted and I don't know if it's clear code or what it is but that's the original finished playfield and then that is a big mylar sticker that they put over it to protect the play field so this is what it does without mylar so the mylar saved the play field but they didn't get it perfectly clean before they put the mylar on it so if you've seen my videos before I don't take mylar off because it just want to play field this morn you just want to ruin all the paint that it's under the mylar so basically we've got to work with this so we're gonna try to clean it up a little bit ok so the first thing we're gonna do is put the head on it so I painted the that little grill was loose I put some screws in it to hold it in place and I painted the neck because it's a lot easier to do it without the head on it right and then we're gonna pop the head up on there the way it's held in place is with four little bolts with washers which we haven't have but if you're missing those you can order them I don't know what size they are I would guess I'm not gonna guess which you can find that information out online so I'm gonna pop this up on there very care fully because whenever it doesn't have the boats in it it's a little wobbly because you got to open the door which throws the weight off so I'm going to put it up on there get some bolts in it and then we'll take a look inside of it we got the head bolted on one as you can see now this thing is filthy I did I was gonna vacuum and clean it but I figured I'll just show you how they usually or whenever you drag them out of the warehouse or an outbuilding somewhere it's got dirt everywhere we've got so basically the power comes in and it goes to this power voltage regulator board and this power transformer here it's all there the comple-- on these Bally's this bottom connector that goes on the bottom gets scorched obviously look that's just completely the heat has just made it so brittle that it snaps apart very common does it all the time so we'll put a new connector on that it also looks like our pins are all kind of nasty so I'm gonna see if those are clean up or if I need to replace them so the power comes up goes into the power brick it creates a bunch of voltages and then goes up here to this solenoid board so the solenoid board is still in it looks very clean that should be this neighbor doesn't look like it's a been rebuild or anything this that should be easy to to get going again the voltage comes out of the solenoid regular regulator board and goes over to the game board now when we got this game in I believe hmm that's probably a different one everything runs together but there's no battery on it so I was gonna take credit for that and sacked cut it off whenever we got it in but it looks like somebody else already had something on here because there's a wire soldered to it so somebody has removed the battery from the game board which is great because that means that the battery didn't leak alkaline all over the board and destroy everything so the board looks like it's very fixable so that'll be we'll film that us fixing that this is the lamp regulator board everything looks good except look at that so that transistor has blown apart that's fun okay and then also on lost world it had Bally's new sound board at the time look at this they had a know chimes it actually made sounds so it's got the little sound board in it like it should which is good you know that's kind of a pain to get one of those it's a little expensive so the way this works is usually this is fine and you can rebuild it right the solenoid board there's tons of them floating around out there so if you get a game and it doesn't have this you can get another one for like 20 bucks or even less go look on eBay you'll see what I'm saying very very inexpensive and then you fix what whatever you get or you fix the one that's in it so usually that if this boards missing who cares it's like 20 bucks to get one another used one like this okay the main PCB yeah that's kind of expensive but if it doesn't have a ton of acid damage alkaline damage usually you can fix it so we'll be able to fix that no problem you can also buy a brand new board which is like a big upgrade the little lamp regulator board dime-a-dozen there's tons of them out there that have been out of parted machines and things so you can buy them for ten fifteen dollars used but this thing is like 60 70 80 bucks because it was only in a few games so the solenoid regulator board was probably in 50 games MPU was probably in 50 games lamp board was probably in 50 games this was in like five six games so if that's missing it's a big pain in the butt I guess not really I mean 67 bucks isn't that big of a deal but all the displays are missing why don't they done to me why have they done to me so that's some serious money right there so I'm got a bunch of displays put away so I'll have to dig through and see if we can scrounge together five good ones for this machine but we'll get to that later so the first thing I think we'll do is we'll try to get some signs of life going on this thing so what that means is all of the wirings down at the bottom then it's been disconnected from all this stuff so I'll drag that out try to put it back where it goes get some stuff plugged back in and then the first thing that the power does is it goes over here to this power regulator so we're gonna have to take it out work on it a little bit and then we're gonna have to work on these connectors so I have to do that before doing anything because I mean it won't even you won't even get light bulbs on without that and so I'll clean this up a little bit with the vacuum cleaner I'll get those wires out and kind of put them back where they go make sure nothing's missing and then I'll uh we'll pull that regulator out and start looking at it so I pulled the power transformer out I got this regulator board out and I was showing you how the pins were all burnt up I popped them off this connector here looks pretty good so I'm gonna leave it but this one was some of the pins were burnt this one the pin was burnt really bad right here in the corner it's all screwed up and if you look that first pin connects to this ground or this plane which also connects to this fourth pin so if you look on the back it was so bad that it burnt off the board's the first pin and the fourth pin should be connected someone put some jumpers on it to make it nice and solid put it back and I've got some not some new connectors here that I'm gonna put on it and get it nice and clean you've also got three bridge rectifiers here they're all fine didn't any problems with that I'm gonna clean up the fuses and the fuse holders none of the fuses were blown I'm gonna test these diodes but if one of those was bad it will - blew this fuse the two resistors look fine and so there's not really much to it except you got to get your connectors good you got to get the connections on the fuses good and you got to make sure the three bridge rectifiers are fine and if there's obvious physical damage like a resistors a lot of times these will break so want to be broke or something so we're gonna get good connectors on it and then we'll put it back in the machine so we put it back together put it back in the Machine and I reap I didn't do that big connector on the bottom yet but I reap end the connector over there that was all burnt up and so now we get a check the voltages so this will be fun to do with one hand I could use the tripod but that's not as fun so let's see here we're gonna check the first one hopefully I won't blow anything up trying this BAM so there's the first one and the ground on these is the bottom of this resistor so that first one is five point eight five point nine votes that's what she wants between five and six volts for the general illumination lights and you can see that they're coming on okay let's let's move over to the second one try not to blow anything up here okay second one is a hundred and eighty-six volts that's fine that's what that's the voltage that goes up here to do does the have voltage for the displays okay the third one twelve point eight seven volts that's correct it goes up here and this board turns it into it yet another five volt and then you skip the fourth one you get to the fifth one if I can not get electro-shocked well fumble trying to make sure it's not gonna touch the wrong thing usually you do this with two hands people okay the fifth one gives me 46 volts that's correct that's the solenoid voltage and so the fourth one that was skipped is actually an AC voltage you know what I was wrong the I said that the one was the general illumination voltage that's not right this is the general illumination voltage I can not elector kill myself please don't kill me mr. voltage regulator board I'm too young I can't get that in there so AC voltage seven point four five volts that's the voltage that's going to the playfield and it's a little high but I think it'll lower down once we get all the bulbs plugged in I think it works like that maybe maybe not okay so we got that in there so what I'm gonna do next is I've got to fix that big connector that goes on the bottom which sends the voltage up to the solenoid board so before I plug that in I'm going to unplug the mpu board because so the problem you might have is that it might send the 12 volts up here like it's supposed to but this board might be screwed up and the 12 volts this can short in such a way that it sends 12 volts out on the 5 volt line which would fry everything on the board so we're gonna unplug the other boards so they don't get there they're 5 volts in before we do that so we're going to fix that connector then plug it back in and ever going to test some voltages up here on the solenoid board so we got our new connector on there got it all nice and fresh this is all the crap we cut off of it one of them was taped and we were able to cut that at the right spot so that we don't need that tape anymore get rid of all of that junk and then like we said we unplugged all of the other boards so that nothing's getting power just in case this solenoid board is screwed up and then I've continued my questionable practice of using the wrong probe to prove it but it's going to happen all right so we've got that on ground and so now we're going to check some voltages on this board so if you look real close there's some little test points up here the game is on so this top test point is giving us 15 volts can you see that 15 volts the next one is giving us 5 volts so the board is actually turning the 15 into 5 you've got some other ones down here that one's not quite 5 this one not quite 5 and this one is not quite 5 and you tie a couple of them together whenever you do the the mods to that board but basically the 5 volt regulator is working so we're good but I'm gonna take this board out anyway and do some stuff on it but it looks like we're starting with a pretty pretty good working board we don't have anything it's like if you tested this and it was given out that instead of 5 it was giving you 12 over that 15 or whatever well then you know that you need to look at that circuit but we already know that it's basically working at we're just going to go through and freshen some stuff up so I'm gonna pull this board out and we'll do a few things to it so I'll show you the updates that I like to do that I got all these from clay at pin repair.com because he's the man obviously the filter cap it's very imperative that you replace that so the one that was on there was an eleven thousand UF 20 volt I put a fifteen thousand you a 25 volt apparently in that situation it doesn't matter if you go up a little bit so I think you can go up to like twenty thousand and the games that had three flippers I think had a fifteen thousand on them so we replace that with a new cap you always have a check in this high voltage area to see if any of this stuff's burn up a lot of times you'll have a resistor burn up or one of these transistors will be bad they're all fine on this one this cap up here you don't have to read place if it's bad what what will happen is you'll get like a flickering on the displays and stuff like that and then you can replace it if you want this is the five volt regulator usually they're good there's a cap here I've never seen an instance where I needed to replace it you check all of the transistors while you get the board out all of them are fine none of those are shorted together so you basically just check between the middle leg and the two outside legs and see if anymore shorted and they're not the clean the pins where all the connectors go so that they make good connection and then there's a few updates you do this is test point five where we checked the twelve volt that was coming in it was highs like fifteen volt or something which is common because it's unregulated and then it's test point one is 5 volts so we had that and then remember when we got down here some of these were a little lower the reason that it does that is because the 5 volts goes out this connector goes somewhere else and then comes back in this connector and so there's a voltage drop across all those connectors so one of the updates is you you short this test point one two test point three with a little jumper wire oh and also all the connectors you'll be solder the pins on on the back so that in case there's too cold solder joints so you put that little jumper now you got to be careful that you don't put it from test point five which is the top one to test point three or from test point five to test point one if you do any of that you're shorting 12:5 and big big no-no but by putting that jumper from there to there you stabilize the five volts on all of the little test pins right and then there one of the other updates is this big this cap that you replace is the 5 volt filter capacitor so the 5 volts runs all the chips on this board and all of the chips on every other board so it goes over to the main MPU and runs all the chips so if that that capacitor is old it gets ripple on the line and it can cause all kinds of problems and so the ground you upgrade on it too so this pin here is ground jackets right here so it does the same thing it gets its ground by going over here to a pin and it's basically grounded off of the harness somewhere else so what you can do is you can short it to the ground underneath it so this big trace here is also a ground so you can short the two together and it basically reinforces the ground so it's getting its ground on the board instead of off of the harness and then you do the exact same thing on this capacitor up here that we were talking about for the display this is the ground right here and it runs over to it just a single pin on the connector well if that connector is bad or whatever that ground won't be have a good connection so you can short the ground to the ground that's running around the edge of the board and so now it's getting a nice ground to the frame and to the did everything else on the board so just you can there's other updates you can doing stuff - I just do those because they're really easy you can do them while you got the thing out it doesn't cost anything the only cost was the capacitor so now it's upgraded it's much better shape doing its thing and I'll put this little cover back on here it goes like that there's a little hole in the top of it so that you can still adjust this pot sometimes these pots are bad you have to replace that sometimes that one seems like it's still fine but so the only other things I would do if I was going to make it like you know brand new is you could replace this cap you could replace that pot and you might consider replacing the 30:55 regulator or is that a 30:55 it's a 7815 regulator you might consider replacing that just because they might fail you know but these are all working plants I'm leaving them so we'll bolt it back in and oh I should show one here there are two test points if you see there's one that's a test point - that was a test point for so one of these will be up over 200 volts and the other one will be whatever you adjust this to and that's the bra that's the voltage going to your displays so you can make it as low as like 180 or up to like 210 but if you make it a lower voltage like 180 your displays the last longer so I put it back in and adjust that to where I get down around 180 set up the displays don't have as much juice running through them since they're the old I guess but did we figure out those are calling is it plasma what whatever the original displays are so they don't have as much juice running through them and I hopefully won't burn up as quick if you get a problem in this section what will happen is that voltage will either go away we're a little short to the input voltage so the input voltage might be 240 volts something like that and so you'll be putting out 240 volts to the displays and it'll they'll burn so brightly that you'll get burn marks on the actual displays they look like crap we don't want that people do not want that so I'll get them between 180 and 190 now if you go too low I'm just guessing at 180 well I think 180 is good but if you get too low you'll have a problem where they don't light up right or they don't light up at all or they flicker but they don't look like they're getting enough juice so you might have to bump it up a little bit but keep it below 200 for show for show so we'll put it back in there and we'll move on to I guess our next one is the the mpu board so I'll put this in we'll hook it up and I'll plug the damn mpu board in and we'll see if the things still booting after all of these years I'm sure it needs service but we'll try it dry and see it so we put it back in plugged everything up I put the connector back on for the voltage for the MP you I put the connectors back on for the lamp board put the connector back on for the sound board so we're going to see if the thing does anything this is the LED that's often that gives you a flash code when the board boots up so the way it works is there's a quick flash that tells you that it started reading the ROM code or it did the reset signal and then it does seven flashes after that and depending on how many flashes you get if you get all seven the game comes up depending on which flash you don't get like what it stops on so if you only get three flashes then that tells you what's wrong with the MP bored so what we're looking for is a quick flash and then seven more flashes so this is like the most fun part of fixing one of these so we're gonna see if this thing wants to cooperate so let's watch the let's let's hope for a quick flash in seven flashes quick flash one two three four five six seven yeah so basically it's up and running I don't have the displays in it but see the lights blinking and stuff so it's trying to actually work the soundboard didn't make any noise something's going on there but and you know most of the lamps aren't working but some of them are so the game is actually up and running so you saw whenever we tested the voltage on this it was still fine but we haven't even touched the mvu yet so it was fine haven't touched a lamp board yet so it was kind of trying to work and our main problem was those connectors been burnt up on the power supply and you saw whenever we tested this there wasn't any problems on the first one it was just the connectors so basically the only thing keeping this thing from at least partially working was burnt up connectors crazy so I think what I'll do now though is you know the bulbs aren't working could be just burned out light bulbs or it could be problems with the lamp board we certainly know that that one's blown up but I think what I'll do first is I'll we'll we'll pull out that mpu board and do some updates to it and install the remote battery holder and all of that just to just to get that a little more reliable where we can call it done so we'll work on it next but we've basically got a partially working game already so we've cleaned up the MPU we've cleaned both sides of all the connectors and we've soldered the connectors on the back and then I took out each chip and clean the legs on the chip but like you saw it was still working but you do stuff like that because it makes it where it's reliable one of the chips this 6821 PIAA chip whenever I took it out it's just so filthy this is kind of typical and one of the legs broke off so I put a different one in cleaned everything cleaned that all the chips there was no acid damaged I mean alkaline damage and that but this was a little remote battery holder on it I do it like I was saying the clay at pin repair.com I do it the way he does it so you get a little battery holder and it's supposed to have I think the original one was three point six volts so if you put three double a's you're gonna get up to about 4.5 volts maybe a little bit more which is fine and then if you put a a diode in and you put the blocking port towards the board the reason that you do that is because the original battery was rechargeable so the board would recharge it but you don't want it recharging double-a batteries I guess you could put rechargeable double-a batteries that might work I don't know don't do that people it might burn something I have no clue if I would work so don't do that if you're thinking about it but I got the remote battery pack on and the reason you do that is if these get all nasty and start leaking alkaline you'll have it mounted on the bottom of the machine or something up in the top on up in the head so if it gets all nasty and corroded and yeah it won't mess up the board whenever they had it soldered right to the board whenever it leaks it eats up that whole part of the board and sometimes it'll grow so this just gets the nastiness away from the board so that hopefully it won't hurt anything so we're done with this and we'll pop it back in make sure that we've still got our that is still booting up if it is I'm going to go get the lamp board and bring it back here so we'll work on the lamp board next so this is the lamp board this is in almost every valley solid state game same thing clean the connectors resolder the connectors on the back they get bad solder joints and I checked with a multimeter every one of these all you have to do is just compare them to each other because they're not all gonna be bad you know so I compared them all together all of them are exactly the same they're all fine and all of these were fine except that one that had blown up I replaced it with a slightly different one which is just a part that I'll pull off another one on these they've got there's about five different versions of these transistors that go in the middle and here's the one that blew up so it was time to give up the ghost now it could be that when I put it back in it'll blow up the new one too I don't know I doubt it though sometimes that'll happen if like the socket shorted out or something but it probably just was it's time to go and so it checked out so we got this all cleaned up nothing really to it these are very simple like I said they're very common they're into all the games so we'll slide that back in and see what kind of lights we get now so all we have left is the soundboard and the displays so this plays are gonna take a while so we pulled out the soundboard next it's very simple just has some caps on it we replace the caps refloat the connectors and then you have to test these pots to make sure they're not open but they're they're testing fine there's really not much to it there's a I mean sometimes you have problems with it but we won't know until we we actually put it in the game it wasn't making any sound earlier but replacing the caps might have fix that so we're gonna put that back in see if we get any sound if we don't have to troubleshoot it and then when we get that done we can move on to messing with some displays so we're mounting it back in and when you turn it on this is what we're getting well if I can turn it on okay so basically it's playing little it's it's trying to play a little melody but it's just clicking it's not actually playing anything so I'm going to look online there's a special little website where I kind of explain to you how you can work through these cards so we're going to we're going to check that out so that noise you're earning in the background thats the pinball in test mode so there is a web page on the internet called repairing the old Bally sound card AS - 25 1832 a s 25 1850 with a scope and this was made by a guy named Oliver I think it's ka e GI Oliver kg ke and I believe this gentleman has passed away but it was like the man when it came to Bally pinball machines he really knew how to work on and I believe he's passed away but the website is still up so I may be wrong about that if he's still out there I'm sorry but I think I don't think he's won any longer with us anyway he made this great website where it shows you how to fix these cards and you just will kind of walk through them see check the power points and everything all of that's good on it and then you check the tone trigger generator and he tells you look right here and check to see if the wave is right well I don't have an oscilloscope but I've got a logic probe and it is pulsing on that so so we're good and then he tells you look in the tone data processor so he tells you to check the few things and we checked all that all that that's good and then he tells you to check in this area which I guess is still the tone data processor and right here he's saying check you 11 pin 11 if not pulsing replace you 11 right so you 11 pin 11 okay so let's go check it out I've got the logic probe booked up so I've hooked the logic probe up to the ground and the five on the board this is chip you eleven okay and there's seven pins two seven eight nine ten eleven here's pen eleven so it's not pulsing so I'm gonna pull it out and we're gonna swap you eleven and see if that gets us up and running so that got our sound back but it sounds like crap man way too low of a pitch so we're almost there though we're almost there [Music] all right folks that's more like it as you can see I didn't guess right first but this little amplifier chip here I had replaced when I did the capacitors because it's always bad to the preamp but what I didn't notice was yes it was bad but this resistor next to it was bad too that's supposed to be a 10k resistor and it had opened up so it was like five Meg's or something so if you get one that's doing it crazy stuff check that resistor by the way that resistor it's like a two cent part you can play with all these you can do the scent this is the volume and this one is the sustain [Music] go back the other way [Music] [Music] you kinda have to do it to someone's a year some people get annoyed whenever there's a little bit of a of an overtone to it like that so you kind of got it literally play it by your okay so we have it doing its thing but we don't have the displays working yet but we've fixed the power supply I'm in the transformer and the rectifier board the solenoid board then we fixed the mpu board then we fixed the lamp board then we fixed the sound board so next up will be the displays but don't you think this video is going on long enough I think the displays will have to be a separate video but we do have the thing actually up and running you just can't play it yet because you can't score or anything and the play field is destroyed so those will be next time so join us next time when we get the displays working we've got a whole bunch of them that are broken messed up and we'll work through them and get some that that look good that we can put in this sucker so leave it so give us a thumbs up for taking the trouble to film all this now if you want to see all the games we have available for sale right now even if this video is old and you're finding it years later all the games that we have available for sale right now are on our website at Lyons arcade comm and you can also come by and see us we're in downtown Rock Hill South Carolina we've got a whole building full of these games that we're working on selling that's kind of what we do we also sell like classic video games and stuff like that so if you're not local so you can't come by and you don't want to buy one so you don't care about checking out our website that's fine just subscribe to us here on YouTube and every time we get another game in that we're working on or something that we fixed up we will film a little video for it and put it up on our channel if you go look at all of our old videos you'll see if that's true we update a couple times a week for years people years go look at all our old videos hundreds of them go check them out but leave us a thumbs up and leave your comments below about what you think and we'll see you on the next video where we'll get this thing a little farther along