Erwan Heussaff is visiting the developing city to get a taste of its local culinary treats, discover heirloom recipes, and learn about its food culture.
We went to the busy Cogon Public Market to see the freshest seafood, visited Chino’s Deli to learn about its artisanal meats, ate sinuglaw famous Jopherson’s Eatery…and that’s just the start of this CDO food trip. Explore the diverse culinary scene of Cagayan de Oro with Erwan NOW!
Special thanks to: Twinkle Floro Chino Mempin Fatima Namalata LA Del Bando Raheema Saro JJ Javier
LOCATIONS: Cogon Public Market Cagayan de Oro, Misamis Oriental
Ladao Eatery J.R. Ext, Cagayan de Oro, 9000 Misamis Oriental
Chino’s Deli M.H del Pilar Street, Capistrano St, Cagayan de Oro, 9000 Misamis Oriental
Kagay-anon restaurant Rosario Cres, Cagayan de Oro, Misamis Oriental
Doy’s Isda sa Bato Justiniano R. Borja Ext, Cagayan de Oro, Misamis Oriental
Jump to: (0:00) Intro (1:09) Cogon Public Market (11:15) Ladao's Eatery (14:25) Chino's Deli (18:35) Jopherson's Eatery (23:00) Chesamz (26:50) Kagay-anon Restaurant (29:25) Doy's Isda sa Bato, Outro ------------------------------- We are looking for collaborators, content producers, brands, and anyone who has a story to tell. Email us at [email protected]
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Erwan Heussaff - Founder Kashka Gaddi - Content Producer Eamonn Quizon - Cinematographer Edel Cayetano - Story Producer Harold Singzon - Story Producer Mary Lournette Baligod - Story Producer Kleo Balares - Supervising Producer Hans Rivera - Multimedia Producer Janelle Sy - Content Producer Juliana Santos - Producer Julius Rivera - Camera Operator Lorraine Santos - Editor Dana Blaze - Editor MK Tayona - Multimedia Editor Kim Arroyo - Editor Whilhem Lorena - Multimedia Editor Martin Narisma - Food Editor Kathryna de Bustos - Social Media and Content Manager Chester Velasco - Production Assistant Kevin Amponin - Production Assistant Dustin Dagamac - Colorist Sofia Paderes - Graphic Designer Roanne Salvacion - Accountant Donalyn Aranda - Accounting Assistant
Content Creators: Seth Alonzo Samuelle Bawasanta Trisha Chua Nica Soledad
Interns: Elyzza Ragodon Emmanuel Angeles Joshua Gonzales #travel#food#foodie
If you haven't had testicles before, I mean, I eat a lot of balls.
I'm kind of a ball eater.
Cagayan de Oro has been a melting pot for centuries.
When two Spanish missionaries first came to this area, they met some Visayas and Bukidnons,
proudly displaying tattoos and gold jewelry as was customary back then.
Due to its strategic position in the center of northern Mindanao,
each wave of colonizers made sure to control this area.
A lot has changed since then,
but CDO remains an important center of commerce and education in the country.
It's one of the best places to visit to see our wealth of natural resources,
whether from the sea or on land.
Its cuisine is yet to be defined,
but because it's such an important trading hub,
you can find great bites from all over Mindanao here.
So, let's get to it.
If you love to cook Filipino food,
I highly suggest you visit the Cogon Public Market.
It is one of the most organized and diverse ones I've been to so far.
To help me navigate such a large area in a short amount of time,
we called in our friend, Twinkle.
She comes from a long line of local fishmongers.
When it was her turn to work in the family business,
she realized that we could do so much more with Filipino seafood.
It's always been my frustration that we lack specificity, seasonality,
and accessibility to the amazing fish that hardworking communities catch all over the country.
And Twinkle is trying to solve just that.
So, Cogon is like 85 years old.
It's been here for a while.
It's always been the center of trade.
But it's primarily just retail now.
When it got too big, they moved wholesale out.
That's why we had to move to the other side.
Then this became retail.
This is where a lot of the more affordable raw ingredients are.
It's really nice though.
There's tabon-tabon there.
You go to markets all over the country,
you never see these anymore.
It's good to see these here.
Even these long green peppers.
This is all going to be in full swing in like an hour.
This is not full swing?
No, no, it's not.
Once a lot of the people in the restaurants come in,
a lot of this stuff will be moved.
I work in a wholesale market,
and we're required to close by 6am.
So the retail markets don't compete with the wholesale markets.
Ah, makes sense.
It's like a policy.
All of this came from where I was this morning.
Where were you?
The other side, which is Bulwa.
That's the wholesale vegetable and seafood landing.
So you go from 3am to 6am?
Yeah.
By 5.30am, everything's gone.
Then we have to liquidate, pay all of the fishermen.
They're out in the city by 7am.
Amazing.
I mean, this is honestly one of the most...
I mean, I've been to a lot of markets.
This is probably one of the best stocks I've seen.
Food in Northmen, in Cagayan de Oro,
is the cheapest anywhere else.
Okay.
Yeah, because of that system, and it works.
So who runs that?
It's an association of market vendors.
So they have to come to things,
like they have to agree with prices, yeah.
Amazing.
So you have your saan.
Yeah.
You guys call this lukot-lukot here?
No, it's gusok.
You can taste it fresh, raw.
It's still good.
What do you call the snails here?
Bagungon.
And it's all alive.
Yeah, yeah, it is, it is.
Amazing.
So you got parrotfish, lapu, maya.
A lot of these is imported.
So the thing here also is,
you can't sell more than 50% imported.
Okay, and people actually stick to that regulation.
Yeah, it's not a known regulation,
it's just respect.
Like the local fishermen,
people have that awareness,
I'm trying to manage the whole region.
But you would know which is local,
what is not local.
And they would say,
like, ma'am, that's imported.
Okay, so they tell you.
There's no hiding.
No, no, no.
They're pretty upfront about it.
Okay, that's good.
We'll go here.
Yeah.
So if you specialize in freshwater or farm fish,
that's the only thing you sell.
So tilapia, bangus,
they don't sell any of the sea?
Okay.
So it's a thing where, like,
you specialize in a specific variety,
and you master it over time.
And it's not just, I think, the variety,
but the supply chain on how to sell it.
Because you need to be, like, faster.
Because, like, for example,
if you have an oversupply,
and you need, like, two hours, it's done.
You need to move it faster.
It's more so like a supply chain,
like, mastery aspect.
Very cool.
Markets tend to have some really good eateries,
especially early in the morning.
The produce is right there.
The customers are the vendors,
so they know their stuff.
It's tight, frantic, yet so energizing.
We heard that we have to try the humba here,
and we could see why.
We almost literally had to fight for a seat.
Eventually, we found peace
and a space to squeeze into.
This is wild.
Like, I've been to a lot of markets.
This is, like, up there.
Yeah.
So whenever, like,
after, like, they drop off all of their fish
and all of their gourds,
all of their vegetables,
a lot of the laborers actually come down and eat.
The humba I'm used to is, like, syrupy, very sweet.
This one is, like, more soupy.
Almost, like, caramelly.
It's more soupy.
So this is always, like, a comfort food
for, like, after working from, like, 3 in the morning.
Yeah.
So the rest of the day is, like,
you spend closing deals.
Yeah, so the humba here is very...
It's more salty than sweet.
It's just like a...
It's like a saucier adobo without the vinegar.
Quite nice.
So you're saying,
why is this market in particular so organized
and so full of produce?
Is there a particular reason?
Is this, like, kind of
where most of the produce from Mindanao comes
to go to Manila?
Yeah.
So a lot of it is still shipped out to Manila.
I think more than half of what's produced
in northern Mindanao actually gets sent out.
Okay.
Because if you look at, like, the north,
it's actually the most accessible node.
Someone did a study about this,
that if you ship something from Manila
and it goes straight to Davao,
you would spend way more for logistics
than something from Manila to go to Cagayan,
and then you truck it down.
Oh, really?
Yeah.
Because you're going around the entire area.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
So I think, like, from a cost point
of, like, just managing a ship
to go around that far,
it's way more costly.
And you're mentioning here
that the market community and sellers
are fairly well organized.
Yeah, they are.
A lot of them know each other, too.
A lot of them are, like, family.
Is there an association
that's kind of, like, handling it?
Yeah.
So the mother association
is, like, the Market Vendors Association.
Okay.
So they do have meetings.
They have things like fees
that they go around.
Yeah, it's been pretty organized.
And I think, like, for 85 years,
like, it's been here for 85 years,
it's a long time to have, like,
perfected a system that works.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
So they figured it out.
Yeah.
So even where people eat
just has become, like, a habit.
What got you into trading fish?
Oh, seafood.
Yeah.
Family business.
It's one of those things that
I think in the Philippines
you kind of inherit.
Like, there's no formal education
when it comes to fisheries.
Yeah, 100%.
You learn, like, actual
food handling and retail.
So a lot of it has always been, like,
education that's been, like,
things that's been passed over time.
Started with my grandmother.
It's been, like, 44 years.
Oh, so your grandmother
was a fishmonger.
Yeah.
Oh, nice. Okay.
Most of the women are.
Yeah.
No, I mean, like, in the system,
most of them are women.
And a lot of the handlers
that are, like,
who work in strong labor are men.
But a lot of the deals
that are done here,
they're mostly done by women.
By women.
Yeah.
It's just easier.
The men are out, the women.
Yeah.
The women are also more trustworthy
most of the time.
I mean, that's in every industry.
Yeah, because even in barms,
like, from my experience,
it's easier to close a deal
and get paid
when you're talking to a woman
than when you're talking to a man.
Correct.
Because they're always like,
can you really sell this?
Yeah.
While CDO is quite diverse,
we are not far from
the rest of Muslim Mindanao,
so it's no surprise
that a whole section of the market
is dedicated to Maranao food.
From the glass,
we spot some kiaparan,
inaloban,
and lots of turmeric-tinged dishes
that I've come to love.
So you work a lot
with different communities,
fishermen and stuff like that.
Yeah.
What do you see
as a major problem,
stepping stone,
on how these fishermen
can eventually, you know,
elevate their prices
and get paid a fairer share?
The huge gap is handling.
Okay, so the cold chain.
Yeah.
And that's what
a lot of countries do well.
In the past, like, four years,
I've been working on this thing,
this project,
where we build
solar-powered ice plants.
Okay.
Solar-powered ice plants.
Yeah.
So it's just one ton
a day of production.
But with the whole system,
we thought the community
how to pack it in ice properly.
Because here in the Philippines,
there's ice,
we throw the fish in.
But fish, once you put ice in it,
it's actually gonna degrade.
Degrade it, yeah.
So that's why there are
ice bags for that.
Okay.
So if you put it in an ice bag,
it keeps it for longer.
And I think that gap,
the basics,
pretty much of, like, handling,
it's a skill set
that needs to be taught.
So that's from where we can go
to, like, normal fish
that we bring at home
to, like, EI level.
Yeah.
Right.
Because that's really the gap.
And we have all of the varieties.
We have a lot of the produce,
a lot of the spices.
But, you know,
when it's taken out of the region
and then brought to Manila,
they're packed in sacks of, like,
flour, used flour.
Correct.
Usually what happens is
a lot of people are fairly happy
with how they do things.
Yeah.
And there's always a resistance to change.
Is that something you're seeing
that's kind of evolving and changing?
Um, change is not hard
if it makes you money.
Fair.
Okay.
And so people do see...
Yeah, see it straight.
They see that fallback.
Okay.
So it just opens the door
for the conversation to go, like,
you know, what else is there
I can improve on?
Yeah.
Because, like, fisheries is,
I don't know,
it's probably the oldest industry.
Like, Jesus went fishing.
Exactly.
True.
And, like, the sad part is,
like, in the Philippines,
he's barely involved.
So although the heritage is great,
um, you know,
it's still gonna cost communities
a lot more than they think it does
to still be doing things
the way they used to do.
Twinkle is such a breath
of fresh air and hope
in an industry
that has been facing
the same struggles
for generations.
We need people like her
who love what they do
and are committed
to improving the lives
of the communities
that they work with
by bringing value
and attention
to the products
that they catch and sell.
Remember me
though I have to say goodbye
Remember me
is a soup here.
A prettier way
to call soup number five.
Also, just a euphemism
for a bull penis
and testicle soup.
You don't come to CDO
and not try this.
It was so great
to finally meet Twinkle
and talk about all the work
that she's doing.
I think what she's doing
is, like, super amazing
in terms of trying
to uplift what fishermen
are doing in different regions
of southern Mindanao
and trying to bring that
not only to CDO
but further into Manila
and kind of, like,
really great restaurants.
And that support system
is so important
if we want our produce
to kind of get paid
what it deserves to be paid.
You haven't come to CDO
and Cagayan de Oro
if you haven't tried
Remember Me soup.
The locals call it RM.
Or you might know it
as soup number five.
For the uninitiated,
it's basically the testicles
and the penis of the bull.
That's in a nice soupy dish.
It's really comforting.
Usually when you have
a hangover
or a big night of drinking,
you come here
and you kind of try
to get rid of that.
But it's also seen
as, obviously,
anything with testicles
usually most of the time
people will tell you
it's an aphrodisiac.
Let's give it a try.
So this is nice and chunky.
It's honestly such a good soup.
As long as you don't think
about what you're eating.
If you haven't had testicles before,
I mean, I eat a lot of balls.
I'm kind of a ball eater.
But if you haven't eaten
balls before,
you do kind of like this
squishy, fibrous texture
that the more you talk about it,
the worse it gets in your mouth.
But you can get away from that.
And if you've had it before,
the flavor's actually really nice.
It's nice and beefy.
It's almost like it reminds you
of beef cheeks.
So there's some gelatin in there.
There's probably lots of collagen
as well.
And the soup is so clean.
Slightly, just some slight
acidity in there.
Really just kind of
really flavorful and umami.
And one thing that I've never seen before,
which I thought was pretty cool,
I was kind of peering on the side there,
but they were eating
kamote with the soup,
which kind of more
in Luzon and stuff,
you'd eat more your soups
with rice here.
Obviously, tubers were huge
and still are
in the Philippines
in terms of carbohydrate sources.
The kamote brings a nice
kind of sweetness to the dish.
It's like a complete meal.
This is actually really healthy.
I'm going to take it easy
because we have a full day of eating.
Tagayan,
as we've seen in the market,
this is a gateway
to great produce,
great farms.
So there is a lot of
great food to be had.
And this is only the start.
As strange as it might sound,
there is an excellent
ham-making tradition
in this province.
It apparently started
in nearby Bukidnon
in the original American-owned
Del Monte pineapple plantations
and eventually the promise
of brined and smoked meats
spread its wings
to other parts of the region.
Chino's Deli
is a must-stop in Sidio.
You can tell that
the people behind the food
know exactly what they're doing
and have spent years
perfecting their
charcuterie skills.
I met Chino
when I ordered
a kitchen knife from him
more than a decade ago.
And since then,
he has gone to work
in some great restaurants.
He was on the opening
team of Vasque,
as well as Deli by Cele,
and some of the best hotels
in the country.
His brother, Jonathan,
runs the deli
and both bring so much energy
to the local dining scene.
Alright, so you have
so this is your,
I'm guessing,
regular ham?
Try this one,
that slice, yeah.
So, that's like
the shoulder part.
it's ham,
it's lightly smoked.
You can tell it's natural.
Not a lot of,
it's pure muscle.
Yeah.
This one, we have different
types of
emulsified sausage.
Yeah.
It's like a beignet, right?
You make your salad also?
Yes, yes,
we make the salad.
Amazing.
Mmm.
How did you guys start
with Chino's Deli?
Oh, actually,
my mom and dad started
this one.
Okay.
So, we started with
varieties like
longganisa,
the homemade one,
pork tocino.
Yeah.
Not the
pampangas style,
not the reddish one.
It's more on
the garlicky side.
Those are the main.
We tried doing our
homemade style
na smoker.
I have a friend
who taught me
how to do
proper smoking
with varieties of food,
how to do
cold smoking.
Then,
adapt.
But my brother,
Jonathan,
has upscaled it,
put it in the market,
make it available here
during season.
Why does it make sense
to have a business
like this in CDO?
Like,
are the products
readily available?
Like, you have
good quality pork,
you have
the ingredients
that you need
to make all of this?
I have to be honest,
Cagayanons,
they're really
meat lovers.
Aside from the fish,
aside from the abundance
of fish.
I want to try your,
this is your longganisa, right?
That's our bestseller.
One of the products
that
funded our
education.
Really?
Yeah,
it all started with that.
Nice, delicious.
You like it?
Yeah, very good.
A little bit more
sweet.
It's on the sweeter side, yeah.
Sweet and savory.
That one,
corned beef.
That's corned beef.
It's packed with collagen.
you make this yourself also?
Yes.
Oh, nice.
It's readily available.
You can
buy it.
And then,
nice, right?
Very nice.
You can get a lot of that.
A little more beef, right?
Very good.
This one.
This one is tapa.
So tapa,
this is not
like the
milk in your mouth.
Local cows.
Sea loin.
This one,
the inspiration,
the way I see it,
is like casajos.
I've heard of that,
yeah, drier.
Casajos is drying it
and then tostado,
but still,
you get the beefiness.
Yeah, your traditional tapa.
More dry, more flaky.
Correct, correct.
This one is
smoked chorizo.
So,
this is anisado one
and toasted bay leaf.
Also,
one of our best sellers.
The bay leaf here
is awesome.
Yeah, it really
comes through nicely.
You get chunks like
this size.
Very fragrant, yeah.
So what do you,
obviously you're here,
but when you eat around,
when you have to bring
someone around,
what do you think
is like a good
meal that people
shouldn't leave Cagayan
without trying?
Sinoglao.
Okay.
Sinoglao, humba.
Yeah.
There are new spots,
local chefs,
I'm trying to support.
Me, as much as possible,
I go around.
But in the market,
everything's there.
The RM is like maybe
breakfast,
lunch,
snacks,
hangover,
everything.
Aphrodisiac,
baby maker.
I haven't thought of that.
Every city has one
carinderia everyone
recommends.
Jofferson's is
tucked away on a
green corridor in
the middle of the city,
flanked by schools
and small businesses.
Its owner,
a former taxi driver,
tells us that his
food is honest
and based on how
he likes to eat.
And that's all
I can ask for.
So what do we have
in front of us?
This is our
typical
lunch in Sirio.
Okay.
Basically,
what we have here,
one of the,
really one of my
favorites,
senuglaw.
This one,
we got la uya.
This is the version
of nilaga.
And this is
one of the dishes
that they're famous
of,
they started with
sisig.
So they call it
sisig also.
Their take on sisig.
The flavor is
close to
dinuguan
with a luya,
with ginger.
Oh wow.
Suka.
Very fatty.
So yeah,
this one,
when collagen
is properly cooked,
you draw out
lots of collagen.
Then,
the fat content
maybe not as
evident
because of the
collagen content.
But enjoyable.
A lot of spice.
If you were to bring this
to Pampanga,
obviously,
they would be like,
that's not sisig.
So we're not going
to claim it.
It's just what they
call it here.
This one is
kilawen.
The kilawen take,
the way I understand it,
this is like,
close to
doing the
real pinakurat.
So it's like,
cook and then
flash.
Flash cook.
Flash.
Do not overcook.
And then here, curry.
Regular ginataan.
Chicken.
Chicken, sir.
Chicken.
Awesome.
Thank you.
Salamat.
This one is
kawali.
But normally,
when you go to other
regions of
Visayan,
we call it
pinakupsan.
Pinakupsan.
So it's like,
close to chicharon.
Yeah, it's good.
Close to chicharon.
So rendering and then
finishing it
before serving.
We have pork,
pork,
beef,
chicken.
So our vegetable is
the chicken, basically.
This is vegetable,
plant-based, right?
This is plant-based.
Technically.
You want to try this first?
But it's still
malasugi.
So siniglaw,
it's malasugi
kinilaw.
Mascara,
and then anything
with the skin.
This is delicious.
Spicy,
I thought it was
going to be way more acidic
than that.
It's not super acidic.
The fish isn't
overly cured.
There's not like
a crazy amount of vinegar
in there.
Actually, it is,
for me.
When you go to other
places,
it's really like
you have the sashimi
effect.
I'm curious about
the sisig.
Let's try this.
So I don't know
if you can tell,
but like how
gelatinous
that's almost like
a gravy.
It is delicious though.
With the rice?
Yeah.
With the rice.
And it also has
some acidity to it.
Ginger?
Yeah, there's some ginger.
There's some chilies.
Some spice.
Black pepper.
Malasa?
It's almost like
a braised
adobong putih.
Like for a long time,
right?
Okay, let's try the
kilawin.
Maybe close to this?
Yeah, similar.
Close to this?
But here,
when you go back
and taste this one,
you can,
there's tabon-tabon.
No?
Yeah.
There's tabon-tabon.
It's creamier
because of the tabon-tabon.
This is delicious.
I like that.
This is so good.
It looks so dry.
Looks so dry?
It looks so dry
but when you put it in your mouth,
tender, the fat
is rendered out.
Chicharones, right?
Beautiful.
I'm so full.
Which one's your favorite?
Aside from this?
Sisig?
I would say number one,
I'd probably say this.
Just texture-wise,
it's so well done.
And then maybe sisig
in this one.
I understand.
It's very good.
The marinao pater
is similar to the
magandang pastil.
Usually,
it's an ulam
either bakas or tuna
or chicken
chopped up
and served on top of rice.
Today,
that's evolving
and you can find
different versions
with a myriad
of ingredients.
Chef Chino
and Chef JJ,
who you'll get to see
more of in our
Bukidnon video,
went to try
one of the best ones
in the city.
Actually,
Chesam started
in the end of 2013.
It was the first one.
But then,
it was only four tables
because
this used to be
a boarding house.
This house.
So,
most of the boarders
are Muslims
and they are very
conservative.
So,
they wanted to
eat halal food.
That's when we thought
why not
open a
food house
for them.
they're the only ones
we can rely on
because there's nothing to eat.
And then,
eventually,
they invited their classmates,
their friends.
They tried
the bifrandang
which is
the most popular.
We only had one
ulam before
which is bifrandang
and now,
we have seven.
We have
spicy tuna,
we have
chicken curry,
we have
chicken piaparan,
and then,
the tuna sisig.
And then,
we also have
the bakas.
When we say pater,
basically,
it is
rice comes with
toppings
or ulam.
It's like
value meals.
We didn't have manpower
at first.
It was just us
and my husband.
Before,
we only had this.
And now,
the houses
in our neighborhood
are open.
They also opened
their garages.
They put
tables.
So,
it's inspiring
that at least
the customers
on what they want.
Okay.
So,
this is
two pater.
So,
in this case,
in this plate,
the difference is
the topping
is
chicken piaparan.
This
is like
piaparan
but fish.
It's called bakas.
Around it,
we have
fish flakes.
It's a meatball.
And this one is
chicken ball.
And then,
we have palapa.
We have two varieties.
As you can see,
this one,
it looks like
it's
this palapa
is cooked with
coconut milk.
maybe it's rendered.
So,
this is the oil.
So,
I can see here
you have
cebojing
or sakura
with chili and spices.
it's spicy.
The vegetables
are
soft
and it has a salty side.
It's like a condiment.
It's appetizing.
This is the version of the sisig.
So,
it has onions.
Surprisingly,
not spicy.
Because when we say
Maranao food,
it's spicy.
But this one,
not really.
This one is different from other rendang.
This one is more on the
soy sauce side.
Mostly,
I tasted
the way
we tried.
Rendang was
like rendering out
all the
coconut
components
and
until it's oily.
But this side,
I've encountered
different types of
rendang
that is cooked
in soy sauce.
Maybe it's tenderized
and then sautéed again.
I don't know.
For me,
it's like bistek.
Correct.
Close to bistek.
Super good.
Not the usual,
but super interesting.
Super good.
We heard of a pioneering
ostrich farm
not far from CDO
and we thought,
wow,
that's a really random piece
of information.
So like any good researcher,
we dug further
and found that
that same farm
sells their ostrich meat
in a long-standing
restaurant here.
We just had to try it.
Way too much food.
But we decided
to stop by here
because it is
an institution,
apparently.
It's been open for
28 odd years.
There's a waiter here
that was here from day one
28 years ago.
The chef.
And the particularity
of this place,
they also own
an ostrich farm.
Ostriches in the Philippines
aren't something you see
in your barrio.
So we thought it'd be
interesting to pass by
and try their ostrich meat.
So we have
asapical version
which actually looks
really, really good
with some crunchy garlic.
And we have
a la pobre version
so basically
steak with gravy on it.
Let's try that first.
That's tasty.
I've had ostrich before.
I've had ostrich omelettes.
I've had ostrich steak.
And it is actually
very similar
to beef tenderloin.
It's not gamey at all.
It's beefy.
It's quite soft
which it is here.
I don't know if you can
have it medium rare
but this is like fully cooked
and it's still very juicy.
I think they sell it
per kilo
at 1,500 per kilo.
So it's a pretty
pricey piece of beef
but it's very high in protein.
So it's a great
alternative source
but you need an ostrich farm.
It's apical.
Just as tasty.
I mean
I'm pretty sure
you don't tell anyone about this.
They wouldn't know
what they're eating.
Tastes like beef.
This is the seaweed
that we saw a while ago
in the market with Trincol.
I'm guessing
just dressed with calamansi
and vinegar.
Some onions.
Mmm.
This is really nice.
This is supposed to be
like our
our little rest stop
to face this aircon
because it's been really hot
in Cagayan.
But
this is a great transition
to the next restaurant
and it's going to be
hectic and so good.
Doy
is a character
and I'm so excited
to see him again.
He came to visit us
in Manila
and was just a ball of energy
and you could tell
that he is in love
with what he does.
He buys fresh
spear or
line caught fish
from a local barangay
just an hour away
from his restaurant
and he prepares it
in the sotokil method.
Fresh and a la minute
for all his customers.
This one
this is the lipte.
Ahh
oh yeah okay.
I've seen this before.
One fish.
This one
sabaw.
Sabaw.
The other half.
This is sabaw.
Sabaw.
This is ilaw.
The other one.
Ah okay.
And then when someone
eats here
they always order
one whole fish?
Yes.
Ah cool.
Okay so that's why
you have different
and always different fish?
Yes.
Yaan, lipte.
So parang your
customers come
and then they decide
what fish they want?
Yes.
I'm excited.
Okay.
Let's cook this one.
Yeah.
You don't get the fish
that's from like
Sulu or something?
No no.
It's not the same quality.
Yeah of course.
Because in Sulu
or in Sambongga
the vessels there
are very large.
Yeah these are
smaller lines.
Ah.
So for you
the best
for Sutukil
should be fresh
12 hours
delivered.
So that part
he's using for the
Kinilaw.
Okay.
For the kinilaw part
don't remove the scales.
Ah.
For the
grill part
remove the scales.
And then for the
soup?
Soup.
The head.
Yeah.
Instead of putting the fish
straight on the grill
he puts them
in these cages
which helps keep
the skin intact
but also allows the cook
to continuously
rotate the protein
making it easier
to achieve a consistent
doneness throughout
the meat.
Next he shows me
what it takes
to make a beautiful
tinola.
Ah so you cut the
you cut the face
parin.
Cheeks off.
And then you quarter it.
Okay.
So what's the secret
of a good
tula?
The secret of a good
tula is
once
it boils
you remove the
scum.
Okay.
So you clean the broth.
Yes.
So ginger
lemongrass
tomatoes
spring onions
wombok
wombok.
And then asin.
Ah asin.
So that's the slime
right?
Yeah.
But you can leave it
the man right?
It's just
clearer.
Or may
have a different
taste.
Ah.
The taste will
disappear.
Okay.
But it depends
on the fish.
It depends on the
fish.
So what's your
favorite fish for
tutukid?
This.
Ah.
Lifte.
The malapunte.
Malampunte.
Malapunte.
It's delicious.
But it's rare?
Yes.
Rare.
Because
the one they
deliver
you can't
request
this is what
I want.
Whatever their
catch is.
That's it.
Ah.
But in the
net fishing
or line?
Spear.
Spear?
Yeah.
All your
fish is spear
fish?
Ah.
Cool.
Some of them
are
what we
call here
pranghe.
Okay.
The one with
hook.
Yeah.
This is what
makes it
delicious.
Ah.
Yeah.
That's what
adds the
the spirulians
will add
acidity,
earthiness
to the
flavor of
the dish.
Mmm.
That's good.
That's tasty.
The flavor
of kamag
together already.
The last piece,
the crown jewel,
la piez de
resistance,
my favorite,
the kinilaw.
So ano yung
technique
ng tabon-tabon?
So Doy is
scraping it
slowly so
it takes a
while.
So it's like
really fine
shavings.
Para yung
creaminess nya ba?
Yung color nya?
So parang yung
milky color?
Oh yeah.
Ah.
Okay.
Yes.
Can I try?
So slowly lang?
Slowly lang.
Parang maging
paste lang sya.
Ah.
Yes.
Okay.
So ito yung
ito yung proper
amount.
So next.
This one.
Bahal.
Day old,
two day old
na tuba.
Two day old tuba.
Mmm.
Yeah.
It's a mix of
this is a
two day old
fresh tuba.
You have a
little bit of
acidity but it's
really more on
imagine like
an old
red wine.
That's the
flavor you get
but not too
arid or too
acid.
So how much
do you add,
Doy?
Okay.
You smash.
Yan yung
kulay ng
color.
Dapat ganito.
So who
taught,
who taught you
how to make
kinilaw?
Sa ano lang,
yung parang binugoy
style ba.
Parang pang
tambay lang ito.
Yung dat
doon sa talisayan.
May nagkikilaw
doon sa
taping dagat.
Pero ito
yung style mo.
Your own style?
So parang you
perfected it to
how you like
to make it?
Walang perfect
ng pagkinilaw.
Depende lang sa
mo.
Kasi
ang iba gumagamit
talaga ng yung
maasim na na
suka.
Yung pang mix nila.
Set aside.
Next one,
you
slice the
ginger
thinly.
And then julienne.
Julienne.
Diba you said
you had no,
hindi ka pumunta sa
culinary school?
Ah.
Wala kang
background
ng ano?
Wala.
I just married
an actress.
That's my
skill set.
Pareha pa na tayo.
Kasi ako,
hindi ako
nakapasok sa
culinary school.
Woah!
You're putting me to work,
ha?
Lubus-lubusin na natin
boss,
kasi nandito ka na.
Para actual mo
talaga na
ikaw.
Ah, this is the
proper.
Each time I make
kinilaw,
I always get
comments from people
from Cagayan
saying
that's not
real kinilaw.
You have to come
to Cagayan
to try a real
kinilaw.
Always.
Okay lang yan sir.
Next one,
this one.
So your first
step is
salt.
You mix it
with your
hands.
Para mas masarap.
With my hands?
Yes.
Really?
That is the
proper way.
To toss it,
okay.
Like this.
Para wala na yung
salt,
saka yung
So ito yung
first wash.
The ingredients.
Yan.
So now this is the
tubab.
Tubab vinegar.
Fresh.
Ah, fresh tubab.
Okay.
Can I try?
Sige.
Try.
Oh, amazing.
Mas, ano sya
mas sweet,
diba?
Yeah.
So you don't use
vinegar,
like parang yung
strong vinegar?
Ah, you don't.
Ah, so it is
very different.
Tabon-tabon?
Salt.
Sige, yung mix.
De, ako dahil mag-try
dahil sya yung mukha
bisunod.
This is actually
blowing my mind
in terms of
how it's made.
You eat
kinilaw in a
certain way
your whole life
and then you
eat it this way
and it's
completely different
from everything
you've learned.
And the flavor
that you associate
with the dish
is not wrong
but it's
completely interpreted
in a whole different way
with these ingredients
in a different place.
The next one
would be
suha.
Suha.
Tatuan lang.
So one muna.
Ah, these are juicy.
So yun lang muna?
Yun lang muna.
Try it?
Try.
So you always try it?
Pero dito
measured lahat
kaya yung ano.
Yung gatit-gatit.
So yung acidity
hindi
from the vinegar
it's from the suha talaga.
Tatuan.
Calamansi.
So ito
acidity ka rin.
Dalawa lang, dalawa lang.
Pero may sweetness na
because of the calamansi
in there.
Okay na to.
Okay na?
Mmm.
Thank you, Doy.
That was so cool
to learn how you do it.
Yes.
Let me try
the
tinola.
So usually
every table will have
Yes, so tokil.
Pero may
may iba.
I saw you have
mga specials ka rin.
Okay.
Next time na lang.
You want some?
Or no?
I feel like you eat everyday
so I don't know if you
do you want?
This I'm super excited for.
Lipti.
Wow.
That is
a meaty piece of fish.
And in this you dress with
soy sauce lang?
Soy sauce,
Chili
and lemon.
Lemon.
Okay na?
Cowboy.
Makati Cowboys.
Yan.
Saka yung soy sauce
lang binigar.
Ah, yung suka.
Ito suka talaga?
Galing pangganito.
Mmm.
Let's try this.
Mmm.
Oh, this one's very good.
Very meaty,
flaky.
Wala masyadong
fishy flavor
with fish.
Yung ginawa mong kinilaw.
Oh, nanginig pa boso.
Fresh na fresh yung isda oh.
Sa kitchen mo may parang
one staff dedicated sa
kinilaw, isa?
Kinilaw, isa.
Okay.
So they all become experts
in one
one station.
Sa pag-grill, isa.
Sa pag-gluto, isa.
Isa.
Saka sa kinilaw, isa.
Yum!
Soup drinks!
Soup drinks, bos.
Beer!
Pamaya na daw,
pagkatapos.
May biyahe pa.
Mmm.
Kumusta yung tinola, bos?
Soy, so good.
Thank you so much.
You're welcome.
Appreciate you.
Balik-balik ah, bos ah.
I don't think you realize
how special the food is you make.
Yeah.
Seriously.
Okay, you can be humble, but
Baka ikaw lang yan, sir.
You're very good.
Birthday to you!
Yay!
Happy birthday!
Blow!
Cute.