Crushing Slab Climbs: Techniques and Tips

Slab climbing can be one of the most mentally and physically demanding climbs. It requires precise footwork, balance, and trust in your technique to make your way up an often featureless terrain. With the right mindset, strategies, and techniques you can elevate your slab climbing game and tackle even the most challenging routes. Hi I'm Sarah and today I'm at the gym with Meg and our friend Emily at The Bouldering Project in Austin, Texas. In this video we'll explore some of the most effective tips and techniques for crushing slab climbs. Whether you're a beginner looking to improve your skills or an experienced climber seeking to push your limits, this video provides insight that will help you conquer the slabs. First, let's expand why climbing on slab is so challenging. For one, there is a lack of obvious holds. When it comes climbing slabs outdoors you typically have few to no visible holds, making it difficult to get those foot holds and hand holds. Indoors can seem really similar in that the holds are super tiny, sometimes even featureless where you can't imagine using them. This can make it challenging to maintain balance and control while climbing. Additionally, many slab routes are located on rocks outdoors that have been polished smooth over time by elements or what we consider in the gym super greasy, making it difficult to secure a grip and this can increase your risk of slipping and falling. Additionally, slab climbing requires a lot of mental focus and concentration. You need to be able to stay calm and composed in order to plan your next move and execute it accurately. This can be mentally demanding, especially on longer and more strenuous routes. These challenges make climbing a test of technique, endurance, and mental toughness, which is what makes it also really appealing to many climbers. With practice and experience you can learn to overcome these challenges and become a better slab climber. Now that we understand better why slabs are challenging, let's talk about tips and strategies for making the slab climbing easier. Before we get started though, it's important to focus on your feet. Once you have precise foot placement, you can implement what I'm talking about next. Number one, so many times I see climbers completely stretched out where they can't move at all because their arms are way too high or way too out to the side. Look for holds and features that allow you to maintain a balanced position without getting too stretched out. The next tip is going to be a little frustrating at first. Instead of just standing on the wall in that one place that you can actually rest on, get off the wall, review the move, and try it over and over again. Slab climbing can be mentally and physically demanding, so it's important to be patient and persistent. Take breaks as needed and don't be afraid to work on a particular section of the climb multiple times to get it right. Third tip is probably the one that's made the biggest difference for me with slab climbing, and that is practice falling on slab. I frequently imagine a slab like a cheese grater. When I'm climbing, I'm the cheese, so if I fall, I'm going to be grating my body down, and to be honest, I have done that. I've scraped up quite a bit, but when I get really scared, something that's been helpful for me is to actually jump down from that position or practice falling. This not only helps you be safer, but it also helps gain confidence. You know what will happen if you fall right there, so it will be a little bit easier mentally to make that move and trust that possibly slippery foot before moving on. When it comes to slab, you may need to smear on walls or across volumes. Sometimes climbers slip on volumes because it's a smooth surface. To prevent this, move your heels down towards the ground so that more rubber on your shoe is on the volume. This not only helps you grip more, it helps you feel more comfortable pushing off and leveraging them as needed. If you're really getting into slab climbing, you'll want to watch more videos by Anna, the slab queen. You may know her for saying slab is sexy. She knows what she's talking about when it comes to climbing on slabs, and if you want to overcome mental challenges in climbing, which is something I've been working on for years, you'll find her content really useful and inspirational. Thanks Anna so much for making great content on YouTube. I am creating a resource for beginners to train for climbing using things like drills and exercises to get better. If you have training tips or drills that you like to use, please share them in the comments below.