Wild Southern Africa | Episode 1: The Quest for Water | Free Documentary Nature

Water. Plentiful or scarce, it's water, or the lack of water, that shapes the landscapes of Africa. For African wildlife, existence can be a never-ending quest for water, the source of life. To drink, to feed, to rinse their food, to play, to cool off, and also to meet and mate. Southern Africa has a tremendous variety of ecosystems. From the wetlands of the Okavango Delta, to the dry Etosha savanna, into the Nabib Desert, wildlife survives wherever there is water. Minute droplets and roaring cascades, the mighty Zambezi River feeds Victoria Falls, where every second 9,000 cubic meters of water plummet down some 100 meters across a brim 1,700 meters wide, forming the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Air currents rush through the deep gorge and drive the water in a dense fog over the riverbanks. Seen from a distance, it looks as if the earth had opened and vapor is bursting out. This continuous spray has resulted in a narrow strip of tropical forest. Moving westward along the river, from the confluence with the Chobe River, we cross wet savanna, home to a great variety of wildlife species that go down to drink on the shore late in the afternoon. This is where the savanna elephants find the 100 liters of water they need each day. Because the anatomy of the trunk prevents them from sucking the water into their stomachs, they use it like a hose and empty it into their mouths. The river's abundant flow has supported large herds, leading to the densest elephant population in Africa. Despite their weight, an adult male can weigh six tons. They are very good swimmers, and they can swim to secluded islands where food is plentiful. The river surrounds the island where they feed, and they use its water to clean their food. They are washing away the clods of earth clinging to the roots of the weeds. Their huge appetite keeps the river from silting up. They always swim back to the mainland as a group, the calves just behind the adults so they can lean on their backs if need be. And when they're underwater, the trunk becomes a natural snorkel. Elephants spend 15 hours every day gathering the 150 kilograms of food they need. Once they're back on dry land, they continue to feed. Their prehensile trunk contains 100,000 mussels, which they use to pick, shake, grasp, pluck, and even peel their food. African buffalo, on the other hand, simply graze on the grasses growing in the muddy ground near the edge of the river. They feed mainly late in the day and at night. The Great Egret stalks the flooded plains to flush out small fish and crustaceans. But the Chobe River is home to many other species. At night, all eyes turn to the west. In the distance, the sun will soon set over the swampland of the Okavango Delta. It was recently inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Okavango Delta is one of the world's largest wetlands, covering 15,000 square kilometers. As the dry season begins, the rains that fell weeks earlier in Angola are swelling the Okavango River and making their way to the plains of Botswana. But the ground level has risen. The water is now trapped in a huge basin and can no longer reach the ocean. The water spreads everywhere, covering a vast area of the Kalahari Desert before the river dries. Fortunately, this annual flooding doesn't form a deep lake, but rather a multitude of marshes dotted with islands that have risen over the years. The rest of the year, when the land isn't flooded, termites have time enough to build their mounds on land. Birds that perch on the termite mounds drop seeds that germinate. The roots push their way to the termite tunnels and the moist earth below. During the next year's flooding, sediment is deposited around these mounds of earth, eventually forming small islands where more and more plants grow. Over centuries, termites have helped raise the ground by several meters, splitting the arms of the river and forcing the water to fan out across this welcome oasis. At daybreak, the temperature is barely above freezing. The animals seem to be numb in the cold. And while the baboons spend most of their days on the ground, they climb trees to sleep at night in a sitting position away from harm. Not even leopards can climb the palm trees and the dates make a hearty breakfast. Giraffes enjoy feeding in cool morning air, saving the heat of the day for rumination. Their long, prehensile tongue can grasp the leaves of the acacia tree without getting pricked by the thorns. If giraffes find juicy plants, they can go three or four days without drinking. They're extremely cautious because drinking can be dangerous. They are vulnerable to predators who could attack their neck. Elephants don't have that problem because rather than bending down to drink, they lift the water to their mouths. Nearby, a female African wild dog protects her burrow. She's waiting for the rest of her pack to return from hunting. The adults will regurgitate meat for the pups that are hidden underground. African wild dogs don't look for water in the Okavango Delta because their liquid intake comes mainly from drinking the blood of their prey. They're interested in the abundant herds of herbivores. But some antelopes can be fierce fighters, like the sable antelope with horns that can grow to over a meter long. That's why predators tend to go after younger animals that are weaker and less cautious. Waterbuck can live near marshlands, generally forming a harem under a dominant male. This is a pleasant place to live so long as you stay alert because the Nile crocodile is never far. The Goliath heron is also well aware that in the food chain, you can be both a predator and prey. The many weeding birds that feed in the marshes are always on the lookout because death can spring from anywhere. The hippos want to avoid the rays of the sun. They emerge from the water to feed on land at night to get the 40 kilograms of plants they need every 24 hours. For creatures that weigh in at two tons, their speed is amazing. In Africa, hippos are the most dangerous mammals to man. Incidents often occur when they try to defend their access to water. Because their skin has no sweat glands, they have to cool off in shallow waters with their bodies more or less submerged. This is how they spend their days, packed together, rubbing against each other, or pushing and shoving while they keep watch over their territory. A male hippo will defend his heron. Males challenge each other by opening their mouths up to an angle of 150 degrees, showing their impressive teeth. The groaning of the hippos doesn't seem to bother the leshwe grazing nearby. Leshwe antelopes are endemic to the wetlands in the northern part of southern Africa. They live in small herds of several dozen individuals. They're very social and seldom separate from the rest of the herd, unless it's time to take a nap. Now is when most animals seek the shade. Nothing moves in the savannah in the stultifying heat. Lions are experts at resting. Cubs stay with their mother until they're about two years old, or just after the lioness gives birth to a new litter. The life of a lion cub is under threat. If a new alpha male becomes head of the pride, he will attempt to kill any cubs that are not his. This lion cub is lucky, as there were no other cubs in the litter, so it doesn't have to share its mother's milk with anyone else. After a mud bath to remove parasites and to protect them from the sun, the warthogs are the only mammals stirring. Their kneeling position means they don't have to bend their heavy head when foraging for roots and bulbs. The southern ground hornbill is heading toward a watering spot, where it will be able to find snails, frogs, and small reptiles. Even in the heat of the day, the flooded plains attract a variety of birds, mainly waders like the African openbill, the sacred ibis, egrets, and kingfishers. The marabou stork is a scavenger, but is willing to improve its diet, even if it has competition. Wading birds fish in different ways. Egrets and gray heron, with sharp and slender beaks, tend to hold still or move slowly and then swiftly spear their prey. Instead, the ibis, the African spoonbill, and the marabou stork prefer to wade through the water, stirring it up as they go. Oddly enough, despite their name, African fish eagles are the only birds that are not fishing now. Despite their bulk, elephants always move in silence. They can go for up to three days without drinking, which means they can wander tens of kilometers from water. But in the Okavango Delta, there's no lack of watering spots, and the elephants can drink daily. After quenching their thirst, elephants are ready to enjoy a shower or could even go for a swim if the water is deep enough. The cool water makes them playful, as well as providing an opportunity to strengthen their social ties and to confirm their status in the social hierarchy. Even when they are 30 or 40 years old, elephants can still enjoy themselves. Once their skin is wet, there's nothing like a shower of dust for protection from pests and the burning sun. The trunk is useful as a shovel. Sadly, an elephant's life is not always such fun. When adults are unsuccessful in protecting them, young elephants can be caught by predators. These two lionesses have been feeding for two days and will continue feeding until the flesh is fit only for hyenas, vultures, and other scavengers. But the elephant herd is not ready to leave, and this seems to worry the big cats. The elephant's attitude to death remains a mystery, and there are legends about elephant graveyards. The fact of the matter is that elephants are particularly intelligent and sensitive and watch over the remains of their dead. In returning to see the elephant cub, isn't this young male bull paying his respects? Is this not the kernel of a funeral rite, an expression of pity and revolt, as the elephant seems to shield his companion's body with dust? Elephants are celebrated for their memory, but there's more than that. Their psychology and emotions are among the most complex of any creatures in the animal kingdom. This long last look, like a final salute, says all there is to know about grief and mourning. Shortly thereafter, the herd decides to move on. At sunset, as the temperature falls, the wading birds join the scene. The three-banded plover paces the edges of the marsh to flush out insects and other invertebrates. The black-winged stilt shows its endless determination, while the blacksmith lapwing seems intent on good grooming. An old male, or buck, arrives, making no effort to go unnoticed. The water isn't deep enough to drink, so he simply makes a hole for his trunk. Male elephants sometimes live alone, or in small groups of bachelors, where they have to establish their status relative to the other males. The best way to get to know one another is by touch. A newcomer recognizes he is dominated by putting his trunk in the other elephant's mouth. If he isn't willing to do so, they'll fight to measure their strength and size. Head to head, the winner will be whoever pushes the other back or manages to raise his head highest. Remarkably, this is a combat without any real violence. They're not trying to hurt each other and do their best to avoid injuring each other with their tusks. The jousting is purely sport. The combat ends when one acknowledges defeat and turns away. That's how conflicts are settled in the Okavango Delta. The day ends as peacefully as it began. Further to the west, leaving the area affected by the waters of the Okavango, the wetlands give away to a drier savanna typical of the Kalahari. The central plateau of Namibia is hilly, with an average altitude of 1,000 meters. In the southern summer, the rainy season fills the country's riverbeds, only to evaporate when the dry season begins. Fortunately, some of the water seeps into the ground and flows through the rock to emerge as spring water deep in the valleys. This water is sometimes enough to sustain a small oasis of life. Trees shelter drought-sensitive plants from the wind and sun. At nightfall, the little residents of the valley come out of their dens and burrows under the rocks. It might be surprising to see this animal in a tree when it doesn't have claws or a prehensile tail. But the rock hyrax is tremendously adaptable. And survival in a dry climate means learning to get food wherever it's available. Eating in a hurry means limiting time in the open, in plain sight, because the rock hyrax has many predators, both on the ground and in the air. In a nearby palm tree, the cry of the gray go-away bird seems to be telling the intruder to go away. But in reality, the bird is only interested in the nectar from flowers and fruits. In these arid spaces, some waterholes are made by man to help wildlife survive. This human aid is invaluable, especially for the leopard who comes to drink at sunset. Leopards are solitary creatures, and the water may help to restore him, possibly before another night of hunting. Because further westward, the drought of the Etosha pan is unyielding. In this inferno of dust and heat, zebras and antelopes painfully drag their hooves to the banks of a dry lake. The wind blows away their tracks, but they all seem to be heading in the same direction, toward a specific point. Generations have followed the same route to a mysterious source of hope, a waterhole. Here, water rising from the depths of the earth attracts animals from all around. It's the only waterhole for dozens of kilometers. Herbivores can drink, and predators can inevitably find something, surely to satisfy their hunger. During the dry season, Burchell's zebras feed on dry grass and even roots. There's nothing else to eat, so they're constantly on the move, hoping the grass will be greener somewhere else. While the pale chanting goshawk spends hours on the watch for prey, the South African ostrich keeps its bill close to the ground. This female can be recognized by her brown feathers and feeds primarily on plants, but won't shy away from insects if the opportunity arises. Periodically, for safety's sake, she lifts her head and peers in all directions from a height of two meters. Her cautiousness is crucial. Capable of running for several minutes at a speed over 50 kilometers an hour, she knows she can escape numerous big cats, but first she has to spot them through their camouflage. Ostriches can go several days without drinking and sometimes lose up to 20% of their body weight because of dehydration. They are great walkers, traveling dozens of kilometers to reach a familiar waterhole. Seemingly proud of his spotless black plumage and pink legs, the male shows the way, soon imitated by his harem. The operation didn't last long because the females are eager to return to the shore. They seem uncomfortable as they watch the opposite shore and the arrival of creatures that never go unnoticed in the savanna. The black rhinoceros is the second largest land animal after the elephant. Black rhinos tend to be active in the evening and the night, but sometimes their thirst cannot wait. They are not known for being polite and antelopes like this red hartebeest keep well away. Rhinos are short-sighted but very sensitive to odors. This one has identified something intriguing. Rhinos tend to be solitary and this one shows that he doesn't want company. The intruder isn't looking for a fight but has the nerve to continue drinking. Rhinos rarely fight without a good reason. Most often, if a rhinoceros charges, it's simply meant to intimidate. This intruder understands that his rival is not ready to compromise and signals his submission. Status is respected and the problem is settled. The jamsbok, in contrast, is much more sociable. If one of his females strays from the herd, the male sends her back to graze with the others. When the afternoon becomes too hot, the animals seek refuge in the shade like this southern yellow-billed hornbill. Its beautiful yellow bill can measure up to 20% of its total size. This cheetah is resting, probably full after a good meal. Despite its blinding speed, cheetahs are not strong fighters. After killing their prey, they hide it under a bush and hurry to eat what they can before other predators arrive. Generally, the cheetah tries to avoid scavengers. Any injury will be too much of a handicap for running. After a good meal, cheetahs can go several days before hunting again. That leaves ample time for grooming. The cheetah is an endangered species, especially given that the limited diversity of its genetic heritage makes it increasingly difficult to breed. But that doesn't prevent this cheetah from getting a good nap. It's surely not going to be disturbed by the kori bustard as it looks for insects and small reptiles. The kori bustard is Africa's largest flying bird, but that's no reason to take unnecessary risks. Impalas are among the favorite prey of cheetahs, which are capable of outrunning them. Impalas are highly social antelopes. They live in herds of about 50 members, formed mainly by females and their young with a few males around them. Social bonding involves rubbing and can sometimes turn into jousting among the bucks as the females watch. A leopard also watches from the distance. Perhaps he is choosing his prey? Just like the brown snake eagle, who typically feasts on reptiles, but is keeping an eye on the comings and goings of these Cape ground squirrels. Rodents threatened by so many predators that they're never far from an entrance to their burrows. Just a moment's distraction and the black-backed jackal would make a meal of them. Giraffes can watch the sunset over the distant horizon, holding their head some five meters above the ground. Their necks have no more vertebrae than most mammals. Their vertebrae are simply longer. After drinking, the giraffes will look for a less open place to lie down and ruminate for part of the night. They sleep in five minute spells. When it's not hunting, the spotted hyena makes a variety of sounds to communicate with its group. A single hyena on its own is never very brave. Like every other creature, when a rhinoceros is on the move, the hyena gets out of the way. This hyena is being trailed by a jackal, doubtless hoping the hyena will lead it to a carcass. The black rhinoceros is distinguished from the white rhinoceros not by color, but by the pointed shape of the upper lip, which lets the black rhino feed on branches. It is called black to differentiate it from the white rhinoceros, which has a wide lip and the name white is actually based on a confusion with the Afrikaans word wijsde, which is the same as wide in English. Hearing a lion roar in the distance, the hyena prefers to move away. But an adult rhinoceros has nothing to fear from a lion. But a mother with her calf will be careful, especially when the playful youngster throws caution to the wind. Black rhinos are victims of an absurd obsession with the imaginary powers of their horns. Illegal hunting has driven the black rhino population from 70,000 to just 4,000 in 40 years time. Today the species is in critical danger of extinction. The leopard is an excellent climber and spends time resting in trees out of sight. When it captures a prey large enough to feed on for several days, the leopard pulls it up onto a branch to protect it from lions or scavengers. Leopards are tremendously adaptable and they can succeed in different environments. This explains how they have survived throughout much of Africa from the Sahel in the north, in the equatorial forests and south to Cape province. The female leopard lives alone unless she is still raising her cubs who live with her for almost two years. When solitary she carefully marks her territory both to protect it and to let male leopards know when she is in heat. Lions are twice the size of leopards and generally have more cubs in each litter. Sometimes a young lion born the previous year is left to watch over the younger generation while their mother is hunting. This young lion seems to be paying as much attention to the cubs as their mother would even if he's unable to feed them. Lions live in a pride and females can cooperate to suckle and raise all the cubs in the pride. This solidarity is very rare among felines. Lions have the sense of sharing while respecting their social hierarchy. When prey is killed the dominant male, if there is one, eats first followed by the females who hunt it together and finally the cubs. But today the pride is less interested in hunting than in sleeping in the morning sun. Nature strikes a balance. While some animals sleep others can get on with their affairs. This is breakfast time for the greater kudu a magnificent antelope that would be easy prey for the lions despite the twisted horns which, if straightened, can reach a meter and a half in length. And because the greater kudu is not a fast runner it's crucial to do a careful inspection before grazing. Springboks can concentrate on their meal because there is always one individual in the herd to raise the alarm if need be. Perfectly adapted to heat and drought this springbok can find the plants richest in water but in the middle of the dry season nothing beats a watering spot. After several months without a drop of rain animals need spring water to survive. This waterhole is going to be very busy this morning. Before it gets too crowded a group of young kudus comes to drink. They are followed by an older male and then his three females. This is one of the great powers of water. Its presence has a social influence on animal life fostering meetings within the same species. Blue wildebeest, greater kudus, springboks and impalas all share the site. And each antelope species is politely indifferent to the others. They drink their fill and then leave room for the others. Nevertheless when two herds of zebras approach from different directions there's some pushing and shoving at the waterhole but still no hostility. And when there's no more room they patiently wait their turn. Everything remains peaceful and respectful until the elephants arrive. When the elephants come charging in they know exactly what they're doing and the other animals realize that they're not going to wait patiently for their turn to drink. The waterhole is now a private club for the time being. The younger elephants are all excited. A second herd led by a dominant female clears the first herd away. There's a bit of pushing and shoving but it's not too aggressive and they try not to trample the calves. They manage to control their frustration. For creatures needing so much water over 100 liters a day it's crucial to lay their claim to this limited supply. And just to think a few hundred kilometers away other elephants are happily bathing in the Okavango Delta. Only a couple of intrepid warthogs try to sneak in between the elephant's legs. It's a lost cause. Like the antelopes waiting near the waterhole they will have to make do with a dust bath for the time being. Further westward water becomes even scarcer. The riverbeds are dry almost all year long. Only animals capable of finding water can still survive like the desert elephants. They've learned how to detect groundwater under the sound of riverbeds. These small pools also benefit other animals. Baboons or the rare springboks and gemsboks capable of surviving in this dry habitat. Then further west lies the Namib Desert. The oldest desert in the world. 60 million years of never-ending drought. Gradually approaching the Atlantic coast the rock gives way to sand. Vegetation attempts the final burst of life before surrendering. This is the realm of red sand. Shifting shapes. Dunes moving where the wind decides. Before the Atlantic Ocean there's another ocean of sand and dust. An otherworldly landscape wrought by the wind. These dry tree trunks are relics from another age. Proving there was water here 600 years ago. There was a river briefly and then the advancing dunes swept sand into the river's mouth. Blocking its flow. Forming an ephemeral marsh. Since then life has almost disappeared. The desert weather is full of surprises. In the morning humid air chilled by ocean currents forms a fog over the warm desert sand. The condensation allows scattered plants to grow. Just enough to feed the gems box that managed to survive here. Some insects capture moisture from the air to drink and they in turn make a hydrating meal for small reptiles like this endemic gecko and chameleons. It takes only a few tiny drops of water for life to appear and establish an entire ecosystem. On these distant lands in southern Africa where the climate seems so hostile wildlife proves its ingenuity and its determination to survive. From the flooded Okavango Delta to the arid desert sands the courage of these animals should incite us to preserve the fragile balance that supports the astounding abundance of life on earth.