What Gear To Choose For Your Camera Package?

Filmmaking Techniques
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This video is sponsored by Squarespace, the platform you can use to build a website for
your business. Cinematography jobs come in all shapes and sizes, from documentary content shoots
all the way to massive budget multi-camera feature films. Despite this, the gear that
cinematographers choose to film with follows the same formula. You need a camera, lenses
and filtration. In today's video I'm going to use my experience as a working cinematographer
to break down what gear you should choose for your camera package and how to create a gear list for
it. In a previous video I went through the basics of how cinematographers compile a gear list by
writing down the camera grips and lighting equipment in a document which can then be
used to source quotes from rental houses. Or sometimes the gear can be supplied by crew
members themselves. Let's take this a step further by looking at two different example
template gear lists I've created. One was written for a solo operator documentary or content shoot
and the other was made for an industry level feature film where you'd have a full camera crew.
I've broken the lists into sub-categories of gear, listed the quantities of items required
and left a column for extra notes to be added for the gear rental house
or crew members to read at the gear check. The most obvious place to start with is the camera
itself. In this case I put it under the category of a camera. If it's a shoot with multiple cameras
such as a two cam documentary interview shoot or an industry job with two or more camera units,
then I'd place them under a separate subheading labelled B camera, C camera etc depending on how
many cameras are required. For our feature package I'd put in the always popular Arri Alexa Mini
and for the documentary package a Sony FX3. Digital cinema cameras will almost always come
as a kit with basic accessories such as cards, a reader, battery plate cage, viewfinder and rods.
If slightly more unusual extra accessories are required such as a viewfinder extension bracket
then it's good to note these separately. Most standard camera kits will come with three cards.
In the case of the Mini this might be three 256 gig CFast cards. If extra media is required,
for example if you're shooting interviews which will roll for a long time, this can be requested
as an additional add-on. To power this whole situation you'll need some batteries. In the
case of mirrorless or solo operator cameras like the FX3, this will often be provided as part of
the camera kit along with a charger. However when renting professional cinema cameras it's often
advised to explicitly state how many and what kinds of batteries you'll need. A typical digital cinema
camera package will carry a combination of onboard batteries which are either V-lock or gold mount
batteries and block batteries which are large heavy 12 volt or 24 volt sources of power which
provide juice to the camera through a cabled connection. These block batteries are usually
used for studio style setups such as when the camera can be placed on a dolly or for rigs where
a consistent and large source of power needs to be supplied like with a Russian arm. Bear in mind
that if you intend to use other accessories separate from the camera such as the focus puller's
monitor and transmitter it may be a good idea to allocate a few additional V-lock batteries to that.
This is why here I've decided to go with two sets of four V-locks and two block batteries.
Choosing lenses is a topic all on its own but is mainly determined by a few key factors.
First you'll need to decide whether to go for prime lenses with a fixed focal length,
zoom lenses or both. DPs working on feature films will often go with a set of cinema primes with
gears for a follow focus system. These tend to have a faster stop such as these super speeds.
DPs may also select a zoom lens which can be used to cover telephoto focal lengths,
in this case a 25-250mm. Another factor heavily considered by cinematographers when choosing
lenses is their character. In other words, do they look modern, sharp and clinical across the frame
or do they err on the vintage side with a gentle softness and pretty bokeh?
How does their look contribute to the visual language you're trying to create?
Then there are the practical considerations that need to be made. Do you need lenses with a very
fast stop which will make shooting in lower light conditions possible? Do they need to be small
enough to be balanced on a gimbal? Are they housed in modern casings with solid distance markings
which will make it easier for the first AC to pull focus? All of these factors and many more
may be pondered before deciding on a lens combination for the job. If you're shooting
lower budget content or documentaries, you may find that still photography lenses align a bit
better with your budget. In this world, the practical considerations of the lens and its
price point may slightly outweigh other aesthetic factors like the look.
On this imagined documentary shoot we've gone with some Sigma Arts,
partly for their fast stop and partly for their autofocus capabilities,
which makes focusing the lens during interviews and on the gimbal as a solo operator a breeze.
Almost all shoots require a filter of some kind which gets placed in front of the lens.
Often this is a neutral density filter which can be used to decrease the amount of light let into
the camera, which allows DPs to maintain a wide open aperture and a shallow depth of field.
Even though most cinema cameras these days come with some form of internal ND system built into
the body, many gearless will still have a set of ND filters such as a 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 to add
additional ND to the camera in very bright conditions if the internal NDs don't suffice.
Our chosen Alexa Mini comes with only three different internal ND settings, 0.6, 1.2 and 2.1.
Having extra external filters allows DPs to be more precise with their exposure.
So if they need a 1.5 ND strength, they could use an internal 1.2 and an external
ND 0.3 filter to arrive at the correct exposure.
For our lower budget documentary option which is shooting on an FX3 without any internal ND
filters, I've added a stackable 5 stop ND and a variable ND filter.
Variable NDs can easily tweak the intensity of the filter to quickly get solo operators their
desired exposure without needing to swap to different filters. For both shoots I've also
added diffusion filters, black promists and black satins, which are commonly used by many DPs.
When renting these filters they may come as a full set, however I'll often note the specific
strength of the filter that I'd like to use. The size of the filters that need to be selected
are determined by the kinds of lenses you choose. Most small or medium sized cinema lenses will use
4x5.65 filters that can be attached with a clip on matte box. If a lens with a very large front
diameter is used, such as a monster cinema zoom, you may need to get larger 6x6 filters
and a production matte box to fully cover the front of the lens.
Most still lenses, and some cinema lenses too, come with a filter thread on their fronts,
like these for the Sigma Arts, which means you can use screw in filters.
When renting gear it's important to ensure that your screw in filters are either the
correct size for the lens or add a thread adapter which will step up the lens thread size
to the filter thread size.
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To be able to hold filters and also minimize light hitting the lens and creating flares,
we need a matte box.
As we mentioned the size of this matte box will be determined by how big the front of
the lenses you're using are. There are two standard sizes, 4x565 matte boxes which can
be clamped directly onto the front of the lens and 6x6 matte boxes which are usually
mounted and held by support rods attached to the camera's plate.
Clip-on matte boxes come with different size diameter openings that correspond to the front
diameter of lenses. The super speed lenses we've chosen have an 80mm front diameter,
while our zoom has a 136mm front.
This means that we'll need both an 80mm and 136mm back for the matte box,
which can be swapped out depending on which lens it's being used with.
Since we're trying to keep our solo operator package nice and easy
by going with a screw-in filter, we don't need to include a matte box.
For our documentary setup we've also excluded a follow focus as we'll be relying on the
autofocus lenses or pulling focus manually on the barrel by hand if it's needed.
Our cinema camera setup will however need a wireless follow focus, since the lenses are
manual cinema lenses, don't have autofocus and will have a first AC on the crew.
Because the camera is an ARRI, I've also asked for an ARRI wireless follow focus kit.
However, you may want to request a different brand, like a Preston, a Nucleus, an RT Motion
kit or if the focus puller has their own gear, go with that.
I've made sure to request three wireless fizz motors or Focus Iris Zoom. This is in case we
need to do any aperture pulls or control the zoom function of our Angenieux lens with a motor.
On some long form jobs or if shooting on film, a focus or distance aid like a light ranger may
be added to make it easier for the first AC to accurately pull focus.
On most professional sets a video feed will be sent from the camera
to one or various monitors on the set.
This gear is managed by a crew member called a video or VT operator.
Often this gear will either be owned by the operator themselves or a VT company.
Therefore, sometimes cinematographers will communicate the amount of monitors needed
and leave the sourcing of said gear and how the transmission and signal distribution happens
to the VT operator.
The monitors which go on the camera and which are used by the first AC to pull focus
are however usually sourced from a rental house as part of the camera gear.
For the industry budget shoot I've accommodated for a 1 to 3 video transmission.
In other words, one wireless video transmitter will send a signal to
three different monitors with wireless video receivers.
One monitor for the focus puller, one handheld monitor for the director
and one larger monitor on a cart which can be viewed by the director
or other crew that need to view an image, such as makeup or the continuity supervisor.
One 7 inch monitor has also been included which will be rigged onto the camera and
may be used by the DP or operator to view the image and gauge exposure.
For our smaller shoot we've only got one 5 inch on-board monitor,
which makes it a bit easier to view the image properly
and pull focus than using the camera's little built-in screen.
Finally, we've got two miscellaneous add-ons, some handles which can be attached to the
camera's cage or rods that gives the operator a nice grip when operating handheld.
We've also included a mag liner, which is a trolley that the camera team can use to
store their gear in one place, wheel it around the set and use it as a surface for building the camera.
These two lists are a very basic guide to the kind of gear in a camera package.
From there DPs will take these sub-sections of gear
and customise the selection of equipment depending on the technical and creative
needs of whatever is being shot.
Hope this video was useful.
Thanks to all of you for supporting the channel and to those that get the videos early on Patreon,
which comes with a template of the camera gear lists in this video.
Otherwise until next time, thanks for watching and goodbye.
