Tunisie_ le Pays du Jasmin - Carthage Antique - Médina - Désert - Documentaire voyage - AMP

The smallest state in the Maghreb, Tunisia, with its 10 million inhabitants, has always been the most avant-garde and cosmopolitan country in North Africa. The cradle of the Carthaginian civilization, it has had multiple influences, from the Romans to the French, including the Arabs, and has been able to draw the best from them. Even today, faithful to its multiple traditions, Tunisia also offers a variety of striking landscapes. Independent since 1956, it was the theatre in 2011 of the Jasmin Revolution, which then turned into an Arab Spring, spreading to other countries, and bringing a wind of freedom. Tunisia is indeed a unique country in the Arab world. Tunisia, the capital, both Arab and African, without forgetting a certain European influence, offers a face that belongs only to it. Along these boulevards, there are superb houses with iron balconies. Cafes that do not disappoint, and appetizing pastries. In Tunisia, we claim a certain art of living. Founded by the Arabs in the 7th century, the Medina is the authentic and historical heart of the city. Classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is a center of life where few foreigners reside. A little less than 15,000 people live in this neighborhood, where traders and artists meet. It is a labyrinth of alleys bordered by colorful shops that are grouped by specialties. But before sinking into the Medina, a detour is made by the central market, sheltered by a recently renovated hall. Located in the former colonial city, it is the belly of Tunisia. Notes of orange flowers invade the shelves, where flowers, even on the ground, are found by buyers in whole baskets. Medicinal and aromatic plants, it is present in all homes. The dates from the palm trees of the south are also famous. The fish market is full of innumerable varieties that the sellers taste regularly. The Mediterranean of the south knows how to be generous, even if the resource runs out in a disturbing way. In Tunisia, as in the whole country, the octopus occupies a special place in the kitchen. The sweet perfume of the mackerels, a great classic of oriental pastry, fills the Medina, and mixes with the coarser one, coffee, which is tasted throughout the day around small tables. Now that the political situation has stabilized, the country is once again occupied by the treasures of the Medina, where significant renovation work began to preserve historical buildings. Many medersa, Koranic schools, have chosen a home here. Alas, the Imaïna now houses associations that give a bit of life to these places, to the singular architecture. The prayer room, dating from 1650, is finely decorated with stucco and ceramics. The artisans also continue their ancestral trades. Mohamed Lidarsa is an expert in the work of copper. He is often given original orders. The technique used here is welding. Welding is one of the three most practiced techniques by the artisans. It consists in removing material, but for the technique of hammering, it pushes back the metal in order to make patterns, rather than fill spaces. Next to the dog's shed, many cafes attract a large population who come to drink mint tea or coffee. It is a key element of social relations that young people have appropriated, especially since a wind of freedom has given them the floor again. The shechia is part of the Tunisian heritage. It is a traditional hat that requires a lot of attention and a certain know-how. The basis of the shechia is wool. So we knit the wool, then we put the knitted hat in boiling hot water with Marseille soap and a little oil to get the shechia in a small form. Then we shape it in molds, in clay. Then we let it dry and we finish it, as you can see. The shechia must be perfectly adjusted and the test is often the occasion of long speeches. The view from the roofs of the medina gives a more precise idea of its density. Lower, on the old court square, the palace of Khereddine has been skillfully transformed into a museum, the first visible sign of the restoration of the medina. Exhibitions follow, such as that of the painter El Bekri, one of the emblematic figures of the medina. Sometimes you can get a glimpse of the intimacy of certain houses, which reveal works of art and a refined decoration. Some old palaces house restaurants or guest houses. The medina is lively from sunrise. Students, officials of nearby ministries, everyone passes by. The Zitouna Mosque is undoubtedly the most emblematic in Tunisia. Built in 734, at the time of the Aghlabids, its minaret was added in the 19th century. Despite the transformations it underwent over the centuries, it has maintained a beautiful harmony. From the 18th century, it was also a place where one taught, in addition to the Koran, art and religious culture. Further away, and not far from the Bardo Museum, there are very old mosques with works of art, such as the El Bay Mosque. The Bardo was first a palace built under the reign of the sultan Hafsid Abu El Mutawakil in the 13th century. He took his name from the Spanish word prado, which means a meadow and, by extension, a garden. It was undoubtedly built in the image of the princely residences of Muslim Andalusia and with the help of Andalusian artists. After being the residence of the Beys and then of the Pashas, it was transformed into a museum in 1888. It has even become the first museum in the country. It is in full mutation and its renovation work is barely completed. There is a unique and spectacular collection of mosaics depicting the Roman villas of Africa. Some pieces date back to the 4th century and are a unique testimony of this Roman era. This is the centre of Tunis at the exit of the schools. Nearby is the Place du Gouvernement, which has become historic after the revolution of 2011. It is one of the symbols of a rediscovered freedom. Avenue Bourguiba is one of the capital's major arteries. As a merchant, it is now symbolic for being the centre of large demonstrations during the Arab Spring. Away from the tumult of Tunis, Carthage is a famous ancient city built by the Phoenicians. At the time, it had a formidable maritime fleet and exercised its grip on all the trade in the region. After several defeats, the Romans finally took over the city and completely destroyed it. The few visible fragments evoke the epic history of Carthage. These marble columns dominate Tunis from afar. The cathedral grounds were given to France by Hussein le Pache Abbé in memory of Louis IX, who died here. Since then, the Cathedral of Saint Louis de Carthage is no longer a place of worship but an exhibition site. Carthage has remained a chic place with architect's houses, ruins and old houses in full restoration. Only a few blocks of marble but its reconstruction gives a good idea of the size of the building which could accommodate 5,000 spectators. The Roman houses scattered around the hill show the refinement in which the Romans could live. Marble, mosaics, sophisticated roofs and, to make matters worse, an ideal situation in front of the sea. The rooms were preceded by a well supported by columns around a central courtyard decorated with a garden covered with delicate mosaics. Next to the remains of the old Punic port, today's fishermen clean their nets after a rather meagre fishing. The building which speaks the most of the sophistication of this civilization are the Antony's Terms. The upper part, with only a few columns left, housed baths of an impressive size. They were the largest in the Roman Empire, after that of Rome. The Zagouan aqueduct fed the entire bath complex. The fronton confirms that Emperor Hadrian was at the origin of this gigantic construction. His neighbour, Sidi Bou Said, always occupied a strategic position. His colours, blue and white, contributed to his legend. Before becoming a researched seaside resort, the village attracted many artists. The village is also under renovation. At a distance from the centre and facing the sea, the palace of Baron d'Erlanger is a haven of peace. Built between 1912 and 1922 to become a private residence, the residence has a refined interior decoration mixing Andalusian, Spanish and Italian arts. It now houses the Centre des Musiques Arabes and Méditerranéennes. Baron d'Erlanger, his first owner, was passionate about painting, surrounded by musicians and interested in the Arabic musical treatises of the Middle Ages. He began the colossal project of translating these treatises into French. His work and interest in music are so important that King Farouk I of Egypt commissioned him to prepare the first Arabic musical congress which took place in 1932. Leaving the Tunisian region towards the nearby Cape Bon, the fragrance of the oranges fills the atmosphere. In Benir Haled, Abib Yazidi and his brothers own 350 trees, mainly oranges. The Maltese require 6 months of work per year and a harvest that spreads from January to May depending on the weather conditions. But the increase in production and harvest costs has fueled his passion for this ancestral culture. The flower here corresponds to the harvest of next year. It must be treated, cultivated so that it grows and lasts until next year. It costs a lot. Then it must be kept so that it bears fruit. This flower requires a lot of attention. He harvests the last oranges himself, the cost of labor also increasing. On the east coast of Cape Bon, at the port of Calibia, the boats are back after a night at sea. The boatmen set their nets around 5 p.m. and the returns have been since the beginning of the morning. Calibia is one of Tunisia's largest sardine ports. The fish is sold even with the wholesalers. The excitement rises with the auction of two magnificent manta rays. Impressive but totally harmless and whose flesh is sought by the restaurateurs. The largest weighs 165 kg and will find buyers for the equivalent of 230 euros. The east coast of Cape Bon corresponds to the image that we like to make of a sea that, from turquoise blue to indigo, comes to lick the beaches of white sand like that of Amar Ghebli. The Punic site of Kerkouane is one of the most remarkable in the world. Abandoned since the 3rd century, it is the last vestige of a Carthaginian city. A city that had advanced bathrooms with baths, all richly decorated with mosaics. Facing the sea, one can only imagine what this city was like with its sophisticated houses, its workshops, its temples. The northern tip of Cape Bon, the closest point to the Italian coast, is a bit of a separate territory, a kind of ecological sanctuary overflown by thousands of birds during migrations. This is where the Cape Bon falconry club is located. Falcons mainly hunt herons, but further in the forest is the territory of the wild boars. The falcon can be lazy when the boars are rare. Ghelidi Chedli has been running the club for several decades. He is often surrounded by passionate villagers because this type of traditional hunting remains very popular. The falcon has just spotted a boar. In the Gulf countries and during the Middle Ages in Europe, falconry is reserved for the weakest social class, while in Tunisia it is a popular tradition. What sets us apart from others is that falconry in Tunisia is reserved exclusively for boars. This region is also one of the country's corners with its fields of cereals and pastures. More than 16% of the country's agricultural production comes from these lands. On the Menzel lagoon, the pink flamingos appear in the sun. Many take advantage of the migratory corridors of Cape Bon to come and spend a more pleasant winter. By continuing our journey to the south, we arrive in Kirwan, considered the fourth holy city of Islam with its large mosque. The Aghlabids had imagined in the 9th century clever works of art to provide the city with fresh water. The hut is surrounded by thick walls that now house a hotel. The vaults and ceilings of this old barracks have been preserved. In the basements that used to house the prison, there is now a smokehouse and tea rooms. The large mosque is considered the highest holy place in North Africa. Also called Sidi Ogba, named after its founder in 670, it is one of the most beautiful and harmonious architectural achievements of Islam. The mosque will be enlarged and modified by the different dynasties that will follow in Tunisia. But whether it is the portals, the galleries or the prayer room with its 17 naves, its heart will remain as it was originally designed. The vast prayer room with its imposing nailed wooden doors has 414 pillars. Between two columns of red marble we see a magnificent mosaic of the 9th century. The mosque, called the Barber of the Prophet, is also visited a lot. The mausoleum of Sidi Sabi is actually a zawiyah, a Muslim religious building outside the Medina walls dating from the 17th century. The faithful worship a local saint from Kirwan, a certain Abu Zama al-Balawi, a companion of the Prophet Muhammad. According to legend, he had kept three hairs of the Prophet's beard, hence the name given to the building. During the 8th century, Kirwan became the capital of the entire Muslim West. Medina became very prosperous in the 10th century, when the city already had 100,000 inhabitants. It is in the souk of Barota that we find the best mackerels of Tunisia. These pastries are simple, composed of semolina, date, sugar, water and lemon. It is different from a modern Arab pastry. This is an old tradition. The mackerel is several hundred years old and comes from Kirwan. It has been around for at least two centuries. We now find mackerel all over Tunisia, but it is still a specialty of Kirwan. It is one of the most popular places in the country. Kirwan also has a reputation for producing magnificent carpets. To find beautiful local production, you have to venture into the small alleys of Medina. Installed in the former governor's house, the Alani house offers magnificent carpets made on site. Each room has finely chiseled ceilings of teak, cedar and marble. This residence of the Beys and Pasha dates from the 18th century. A striking contrast with the austere style of the Aghlabids at the origin of the expansion of the city. Most carpets are produced in the houses of the surrounding villages. The work is long, tedious and requires precision. Some require up to six months of effort. Tahar Oueslati believes that the red carpet is the most sought after. The real carpet of Kirwan is made from natural wool. The wool is not dyed. There are generally 40,000 knots per square meter. We make all sizes from 1 to 16 square meters. It is a quality carpet that constitutes the richness of a residence. The Medina hides other astonishing residences, like this splendid family house that also belongs to the Alani. It dates from the 18th century but has not been inhabited since most of the family's children left it. It should soon be transformed into a museum, hopes its owner. Upon reaching the coast, we arrive at another historical city of Tunisia, Madia, which was the capital of the first Shiite caliphate of the Muslim world. Its foundation in 916 made the coastal region the central region of the Sahel. The port, which is still one of the most important in the country, is relatively calm. The storm has covered part of the night and few boats have decided to go out to sea. The fishermen bring octopus, small bonito that will be cooked with tomato sauce or with a fish couscous. Tahar's boat just spent the night in bad weather and still brings a good catch, about 200 kg of bonito. Located on a narrow peninsula, the city is also famous for its marine cemetery, from which we enjoy a magnificent view of the Mediterranean. This place is a place of privileged walks. In Medina, there is a workshop very sought after away from the tourist center, that of Kari Marous. This silk weaving workshop is specialized in traditional wedding outfits. The most beautiful tunics have patterns made from gold and silver threads. Even if the main piece in which the bride is draped reaches 2,500 euros, Kari Marous had to create several additional workshops to meet the demand. The dress like this is made by a man. The piece is 4.5 m long and 1.40 m wide. It takes two weeks of work. It is a draped dress, the traditional wedding dress of Mehdi or the south of Tunisia, such as Djerba, Gabia, Medina, etc. Impressive alignments of olive trees along the southern road. They are one of the main wealth of the region. From afar, the impressive silhouette of the Del Gem amphitheater arises. It is part of Rome, one of the best preserved Roman amphitheaters in the Mediterranean. Built between 230 and 238 by Gordians, all the shows in vogue in the Roman Empire, such as gladiator fights, took place there. Its capacity is estimated at 30,000 people. Today, there are still often scenes hosting different artistic shows. The first boat that leaves Sfax for the Carchena Islands is borrowed by regulars. Merchants who have made their races on the continent, men and women who come to work on the archipelago for the day. Tourists will come later in the morning. Located 20 km from Sfax, the Carchena archipelago barely emerges from the depths. It is a harsh and overwhelming territory, a long wild palm tree cut from the continent's fever. It is an arid land where the landscapes alternate palm trees, sand and extensions regularly beaten by the wind. The fishermen's houses, very characteristic, bear the different signs of the Zodiac and the representations of fish protect them from the bad eye. Women shelter from the sun with long hats and a cotton veil. The municipal council which brings together the 14 villages of the island resists the temptation of tourism and opposes any attempt to build a tourist complex. The few rare hotels are located on the west coast. On this island of 14,000 inhabitants there are more than 3,000 boats of which 2,400 are ferry boats. It is one of the very rare places in the Mediterranean where we still fish with Latin sails. The 5,000 fishermen are proud of this tradition where everything is consistent for these men who have always claimed their freedom. When the wind is not strong enough, the engine takes over to pick up the nets. The wind has subsided and Fredge, the fisherman, says he will have a lot of work to remove all the algae that hide a very thin fish. Here we fish with clever traps mounted on eucalyptus ponds which spread over several hundred meters. The fish and the octopuses are attracted inside and can no longer get out. Nests all around come to finish the job. All that remains is to pick them up to recover the octopuses caught in the trap. This old-fashioned fishing probably lives its last hours. From now on, a new port has taken over with large engine units that will never have the charm of a return to sailing fishing. Octopus is Kerkéna's specialty. Before cooking it, Najet spends at least twenty minutes beating it to soften its flesh. You have to beat the octopus to soften it and prepare it for cooking. If you don't beat it, it remains plastic. I cook it in water and at the same time I prepare the soup that will accompany it with tomato concentrate, red peppers, oil, coriander, cumin and garlic. All the secret lies of course in the proportion of the ingredients. And Najet's know-how has attracted all gourmets from the island for more than twenty years. It's the traditional dish here. It's like winter and we prepare it especially during Ramadan. The soup with octopus is the dish of the Kerkéna. Except for the octopus that is entitled to its festival, the arts are also specific to Kerkéna, like this group, Oulet Boaly, who sings the sweetness of living on this island and who welcomes the visitor with kindness. For the visitor, Kerkéna remains a parenthesis far from the tumult of the continental coasts. Tunisians generally prefer to use the Bac to go to Djerba. Ancient landmark of Corsair, the island has known a moving history where the first Berber tribes and the Phoenicians succeeded each other a long time ago. Octopus is fished with its jaws. Each series wears the colors of a family of fishermen. An unstoppable trap to which the octopus cannot escape. The village of Oumtouk is the vital center of the island. It bears witness to its active past, like this caravan serail today transformed into a hotel. Older than four centuries, the large merchant caravans came to rest here. The fortified architecture of Djerba bears witness to the long presence on the island of the Zibadites who defended their autonomy with imposing fortifications including around the mosques. Under the village, there is an underground basin that was used to preserve fresh rainwater during the long periods of heat. Like a madia, we still weave beautiful stuff. The closer we get to the south, the more we protect ourselves from the sun and the sand. It is also in Oumtouk that jewellery held by Jews and Muslims The island is vast, nearly 30 km long. Centenary trees indicate that olive cultivation is a very ancient practice. We discover millenary, secular olive trees with a tormented trunk, knotted and cracked. Some are more than 2,000 years old and date from the Roman era. The exceptional climate gives birth to a variety of olives whose oil has original tasting qualities with a contrasting flavour. The surrounding plains are mainly cereal. Before the tourist outbreak, the Jerbians cultivated wheat, barley, sorghum and lentils which were the basis of their diet. The fish or dried meat barley couscous is preserved in olive oil and dried anchovies are specialties of the island. Jerba chose to preserve its urbanism early on. The hotel complexes are located in the north of the island in the area reserved for tourism. Lagoons and long sandy beaches are an obvious invitation to laziness. As we head west, the landscape becomes drier, announcing nearby deserts. Matmata is a troglodyte village. Seen from the sky, its craters resemble bomb impacts. It inspired several filmmakers, George Lucas in particular for his film The War of the Stars. We are at Les Turquies. The family has been occupying this residence for generations for two and a half centuries. The first Berbers had invented an ingenious air circulation system that kept the main rooms cool. In the kitchen, Mesawida prepares the harissa, a recipe based on red pepper. Large jars are used as food containers. Most of the ingredients come from the family's own culture. Above the entrance, Fatima's hand is hung, which spreads the bad eye. As a welcome, bread is served with olive oil accompanied by a particularly coarse tea. Mesawida prepares the labane, fermented milk. For the wheat and various cereals, the flour is obtained with the help of an ancient manual millstone. As the valleys go up into the country, the villages follow. Some are abandoned, others survive thanks to the presence of historical remains. In Ouled Soltan, this ksar offers the particularity of having a second courtyard dating from the 19th century which extends the first built in the 15th century. It has a record number of 400 food storage cells called gorfa, which are divided into 4 or 5 levels. Access was controlled by a door and the nomads, to access their reserves, had to show a password. Approaching the first dunes of the desert, the village of Chenini is partly abandoned. Its inhabitants have left the old part to settle lower in more comfortable houses. However, in the old stone slabs, noises still indicate a presence. We are at Omar's, who presses olive oil according to an ancestral method. The drummer has his eyes blindfolded so as not to be disturbed by possible arrivals. After being crushed by the mill, the olive paste is then pressed by a pulley antediluvian system which allows a huge trunk to act as a press. With 300 kg of paste, Omar produces 60 liters of pure and tasty oil. After hours of work, everyone is happy to find the air free and the freshness found at the end of the day. Ksar Gilan is at the border of the Great Eastern Territory and marks the entrance to the Great Desert. It is an oasis frequented by about 50 nomadic families and adventurous travelers. The oasis is fed by a hot spring which would have thermal virtues. Further west, Douz is one of the great palm trees in the south of Tunisia. With half a million palm trees, many fruits and vegetables and dates are grown. Here, the burried faces and the headscarves attest to the permanent presence of the sun and the sand. At the end of the day, the elders meet at the coffee terrace for endless domino games. At Douz, we wear Balga. These open shoes, a kind of comfortable slippers, evacuate the sand easily. The most sophisticated are made of camel leather. The authentic Balga is made of camel leather. It is flexible and comfortable. The dunes are formed by the winds and when they mix with the thin skins of gypsum, their crystallization can create wonders. You have to know how to look at the bottom of some of them to discover magnificent pink sands. We continue our way to the west to reach the El Djerid Gorge, an immense plain where two salty lakes meet. The Gorge extends over a hundred kilometers. Many travelers say they were victims of mirages. When summer approaches, only large salty puddles are left. At the foot of the Djebel's counterforts appear the first mountain oases fed by high altitudes. The Chebika oasis is praised for its fresh water sources from the mountains. The border with Algeria is very close. The cut landscapes have served as a setting for several films. The Egyptian roofs do not approach the large oases. They remain mostly in the desert. The Midès Canyon is made up of several layers of stratified rocks sculpted by erosion and the course of the Oued. In these gorges with desert landscapes you can observe fossils and colored minerals aged millions of years that suggest that at this time the sea was present here. The Tamerza oasis is 300 meters high. In the old village, only the white mosque still serves during Ramadan. The Toser oasis has been inhabited for more than 8,000 years. It experienced its golden age during the great caravans between the 14th and 19th centuries. Nabil Chokman tries to preserve and revive the palm tree, structured in three stages of culture. The dates at the top, the fruit trees in the middle and the sea cultures on the ground. We are starting to feel a renaissance of the palm tree of Toser. But 20 years ago, there was a huge decline because the region was 100% autonomous. Agricultural products were exported, whether forage or maritime, except dates. The dates are still the pride of Toser. They are harvested by climbing barefoot at the top of the palm trees. The date palm tree would be the oldest plant of culture known to exist 6,000 years ago in Egypt. Each garden is divided into dourga. The ground is leveled with a slope of 3% to promote drainage. Nearly 200 sources produce 60 million liters of water The queen of dates, the Deglet Nour, or the finger of light, is crowned on the city center market. The fruits of a lower quality will be used for culinary preparations, and those of second choice to make date paste and jams. Despite the efforts of Nabil and his friends to promote the production of Toser, a good part of the fruits and vegetables come from Tunisia and its region. Thus ends our journey. We leave this country, the heart conquered by such a cultural and architectural heritage, and the essence awakened by a festival of flavors and colors. The country of jasmine offers a panoply of exciting experiences and discoveries.