Learn how to give thrifted baskets a makeover using IOD & Redesign. Learn how to use Moulds with Resin. How to use Stamps with Ink. Create basket planters. Create a basket liner using Drop Cloth & IOD Stamps. DIY Wall Art using Drop Cloth with Baskets & Paint Inlays. How to Decoupage a Basket.
Hi, everyone.
It's Erin from the Provincial Farmhouse.
Today, I've put together a collection of 10 French Country Basket Hacks.
I'm going to be working on this wooden basket.
I love the handles.
I love the shape, but I don't love the color.
My first step is to take Paint Couture's 2-in-1 Primer.
I'm using my Eco Brush in the 10-inch size.
And I am going to be applying two coats of this primer.
It's going to prep the surface for paint,
but it's also going to help with bleed through.
These particular baskets do tend to have quite a bit of that bleed through.
And I also need a light color, because we are actually going to be doing
some decoupage over the top of this.
And I don't want any stains bleeding through and ruining my design.
After my two coats of primer are completely dry,
I'm going to take Recycled Treasure's Vintage Wallpaper Decoupage Paper.
This is a gorgeous design.
It has some script in the background, some lovely shabby-looking roses.
I'm going to lay it on top of the section where I want it to go.
And then I'm going to crease it in the sections where I'm going to cut.
And I always like to cut about a centimeter away from where I've done
my crease so that I know that I'm going to have some excess if I need it.
I'm going to repeat this process for each of the sides.
I'm then going to take Paint Couture's Decoupage Medium in Matte.
And I'm going to be working in sections, laying down
a generous amount of product.
And then I'm going to start adding my decoupage paper.
I've laid it over the top.
I'm also misting it with water to give it a little bit more stretch
and flexibility.
And you can see I'm actually using my finger
to press the design into the basket crevices.
I'm also going in with my brush with a little bit of product
on it over the top of the different sections.
And I'm just going to work my way across doing this, repeating those steps.
I did also take a craft knife and I added little cuts
along the horizontal sections of the basket
there just to help that paper release, to help it lay down a little bit flatter.
Now, this was never going to be a perfect project
because I'm working on an uneven surface,
but I am going for a vintage shabby sort of a look here.
So I'm OK with the wrinkles.
I'm OK with the fact that I am going to get a few tears here and there.
I just really loved that I could take this beautiful design
and apply it onto a plain basket and just give it new life.
If you're going to try this, I definitely
suggest that you pick a design like mine where it doesn't matter if it's not
even or if I have to piece together bits and pieces of the design.
You certainly wouldn't go with something like buffalo check
or something with a very obvious pattern or picture
because it might look a bit distorted if you're
having to make some changes or some fixes or wrinkles or with a different level.
So definitely pick something that's a bit more forgiving like this design.
Once I had most of that paper down, you can see I am going in again
and I'm adding that product.
I did get a little tear there, but that's OK.
We're going to use some wax a little bit later so that will hide it.
So I'm going to go around and tear off any excess along the edge there.
And because the bottom section is wet, it's just tearing along that damp line.
And then I'm adding a bit more of that product to seal up those edges.
And I'm repeating the same process on the sides and the bottom.
I'll be repeating the same process for each of the sides.
And I have sped it up for you because it was a little bit more time consuming.
If you don't have access to decoupage paper,
you could try using napkins or tissue paper instead.
I would probably just leave out the water mister part.
I wouldn't be misting my tissue paper or napkins because obviously those materials
are a little bit more fragile and delicate than this sort of decoupage paper,
which is a bit thicker.
Once my decoupage paper was completely dry,
I grabbed Paint Couture's Vintage Moss Mineral Paint.
I am using my 12-inch Eco Brush.
And I'm going to go around the entire inside of the basket
with this beautiful green.
This green is actually a perfect match for the green that
appears in this decoupage paper.
So I was so glad that I had this on hand.
And I just love how it really does bring out the green in those leaves.
And it just creates a beautiful contrast.
It's going to take two coats to get the look that I want.
Once the inside of the basket was painted,
I then added paint to the outside strip just along the top as well,
just so we had a peak of that color over the top.
And then I also went in and added it to the top section of the basket as well.
I did try my best not to get too much paint on the handles
because I did like how that leather tone looked
in contrast with the vintage wallpaper design and that lovely green.
Paint Couture's Mineral Paint has a built-in primer and a built-in top coat.
So I'm not going to have to go in with any clear coat over the top.
Once I have my two coats on there, this will be done.
Once my paint was completely dry, I took my brown wax brush.
I didn't put any excess on there.
And I'm just going around and hitting all those edges
just to give more of a vintage look.
It's also going to help with the look of wrinkles.
It just gives it that lovely aged finish that we're definitely going for.
Because I already have the decoupage medium down,
I'm able to wipe back as much or as little as I want.
And obviously, if this is a bit too grungy, a bit too dark for you,
you could leave this step out.
I'm also going to be adding it to the edges
around the top section of the basket as well.
And here's a look at our finished basket.
This was my first time decoupaging on a basket,
and I really love how it turned out.
I think it's shabby chic, French country cottage.
It has all of those lovely vintage vibes.
Let me know what you think of this in the comments.
I immediately thought that these could be customised
to suit a farmhouse home, any sort of home, really,
with just a few little upgrades.
This is the name of the basket
if you would like to try and grab some for yourself.
For our first basket, I thought that I would create a liner
to go in the inside.
So right now, I have a piece of drop cloth underneath the basket,
and I'm just working out exactly how much of the drop cloth
I'm going to need.
You could definitely do this in a more technical way.
You could do all your measurements,
but I am all about doing what's a little bit easier
with the least amount of equipment possible.
So I've just worked out how much I need
by laying the basket on top of the fabric,
and now I'm trimming out a square of that drop cloth.
Once I have the basket in place,
I'm just going to do another quick check
to make sure that I'm happy with the sizing.
I noticed on the left there that I did have that seam,
and I wanted each side to look the same,
so I did end up tearing off that seam.
I do like to keep these,
and we will be using them a little bit later on.
And then I'm using a lead pencil
to draw some little lines
to mark out exactly how wide the basket is
so that I can cut it to shape.
Right now, I'm making a cut to one of those lines there
on the right-hand side.
I'm going to repeat the same process
on the left-hand side as well.
And these cuts are just going to be a guide
to make sure that I don't cut too far in.
I'll also be doing the same sort of cuts on the opposite side.
So this is going to be a no-sew basket.
Here you can see I am cutting off the squares
on the outer corner,
so it's almost like the net shape of a cube,
obviously excluding the top section.
So I'm just going to cut out those little squares on the side,
and then this will be something
that can just sit inside the basket.
And, of course, you could create your own,
and you could sew them together,
but I'm going for a no-sew option here
so that we have an easy option that you can do in about an hour.
So I'm just checking that I'm happy with how that's sitting.
And once I've done that,
I am going to take out my iron
and iron out as much of these creases as I can.
These baskets already have a bit of a country feel,
but I want to add some detail to this drop cloth,
so I'm taking IOD's La Campaign stamp.
These little roses are from that stamp pack.
I'm inking it up with IOD's Permanent Black ink,
and then I'm going to go around the edges
and make sure that I tidy up any excess ink
because, obviously, we do press down a little bit harder
when we're stamping fabric,
so I want to make sure that I don't have any excess ink
where I don't want it.
I'm then positioning where I want it to go and pressing down.
You definitely want to use a bit more force
when you're pressing down and stamping on fabric,
and always have one hand in place
while the other hand applies pressure.
And I'm just going to continue to repeat that process,
inking up my stamp
and then spreading out that design on our drop cloth.
It will be up to you and the look you're trying to achieve
as to how many repeats of this sort of design that you do.
Maybe you don't want to do flowers.
Maybe you want to do something completely different.
This is just one example of how you can customise
that fabric to go into your basket.
I also took another section from the La Campaign stamp.
This is sort of like a bud stamp.
So I'm just inking that up, tidying up the excess ink,
and then I'm going around and adding that
in some of that other negative space.
Now, this is just going to be a decor piece,
so I'm not going to heat set it,
but if you wanted to be able to wash this liner,
you would let this dry for at least 24 hours,
and then you would come in with an iron on a cotton setting
and use that over the top to heat set your design.
Once my ink's completely dry,
I'm going to position my basket liner inside the basket,
and I'm just going to press down
and get each of the sides in position.
Remember, I don't mind
if this is a little bit shabby chic looking.
I'm going to fold some of that drop cloth underneath,
and then I am going to actually be using a hot glue gun
to glue those sides down.
This is going to give our basket liner
a bit more of a tidy look.
Again, you could definitely do some sewing with this
if you didn't want to use hot glue.
And I'm going to go around the edges of the liner
and continue gluing down those sections
until they've all got a nice, tidy hem.
Partway through doing this step,
I decided that I wanted to add some little ties
to each of the corners
to tie the different sections together.
In hindsight, I probably should have decided this earlier
so that I could glue the ties down underneath the hem
that I'm currently gluing.
But projects evolve as you are working on them,
so hindsight definitely would have glued the ties
underneath the hem, but that's okay.
We are going to go ahead and cut the offcuts
that I took from the edge,
the hems that were around the border that I tore off.
I'm going to cut those to size,
and then I'm going to glue those
on the edges of each of our sides.
So there's going to be a tie in each corner
so that we can tie those different sections together.
Again, I definitely would have glued these
underneath the hem,
but I will just remember this for next time.
You're not going to be able to see this anyway
once it's folded over.
Obviously, by using drop cloth
and these little hemmed sides that I tore off,
I'm going for more of a rustic, sort of shabby look.
If you wanted this to be a bit more tidy,
you could use some lovely ribbon or lace for your ties instead.
To finish this basket off, I'm now going around,
and in each of the corners, I'm going to tie a simple bow.
And here's our finished lined basket.
I'm really happy with how this turned out.
That no-sew liner has definitely transformed
what was a generic Ikea basket
into something with a lot of charm.
Let me know what you think of this in the comments.
For my next basket,
I'm going to be using these little feet that I bought online.
I will link them in the comments.
And I'm just going to be using my hot glue gun
to glue them to the base of the basket.
This was a little bit tricky at times,
and I definitely had to have some patience
and sort of work them to fit the basket.
And I did at each stage stop and make sure
that it was going to keep the basket straight and level.
But this definitely takes the basket up a notch.
It gives it a little bit more refinement, I think.
These are originally, I believe, to be used on jewellery boxes,
but I just love how this elevates the look.
I'm then going to be adding this handle
that I also bought online,
and it has a screw that goes into the back.
I'm going to add a washer to that.
But first, I'm going to drill a hole.
There was a section in the basket where I wanted it to go,
but it was just a little bit too tight for that screw.
So I'm using a drill bit
to make the section a little bit wider,
and then I'm using my drill
to screw that little screw in place
so that it can go into the back of the handle.
So I definitely had to be patient with this,
but I wanted to make sure that it was securely in place.
And here's our second finished basket.
This was a quick and easy upgrade hack,
adding those feet and that handle
definitely gave this a more customised, refined look.
Let me know what you think of this in the comments.
For my third basket,
I'm going to be using the Labels 1 and 2 moulds by IOD.
These are retired designs,
and I'm going to be using my amazing casting resin.
I'm measuring out equal parts A and B
and then stirring it together for about 30 seconds.
I wasn't exactly sure which label I wanted to use,
so I narrowed it down to three
and decided to pour some resin in each of them.
As I'm going to be sticking one of these labels to the basket,
I went with resin as it has a lot more stability.
After about 10 minutes, my moulds are ready,
so I'm going to flex my mould and then pull the casting out,
and I'm just going to lay them up against the basket
one at a time to work out which design I want to go with.
I did try to freeze the video at each of those points
so that you would get some idea
of how each of these would look,
just in case you want to try this at home.
In the end, I went with the more rounded design,
and I'm going to be coming in
with Dixie Belle's Buttercream Chalk Mineral Paint,
and I'm going to give my label two coats.
I went with white here.
I'm going to be giving it a little bit of an antiqued look,
but at this point, you could come in with a bit more colour
if you're someone who prefers a bit more colour in your decor.
Once that was dry, I took Paint Couture's Van Dyke Brown Glaze,
and I'm just adding it directly to the paint.
It's not sealed, but that's OK
because I am working pretty quickly here
and on quite a small surface.
So I'm going in, really working that glaze
into all of the beautiful details on that label.
And then once I have that covered, I'm taking a wet wipe
and I'm coming in and wiping back that excess
so that the glaze sits down in the details
and gives this a real antique look.
I'm then taking Paint Couture's Bronze Luxe Metallic,
and again, I'm going to go in and hit some of those details
with that gorgeous bronze colour.
And again, when using these lovely metallics,
keep in mind that they do become more vibrant as they dry.
This bronze is probably one of my all-time favourites
out of these metallics,
but if you prefer gold or silver,
at this point, you could come in with those colours
to really customise this look.
Once my paint was completely dry,
I took IOD's Knob Topper Stamps.
This is a retired design too, unfortunately.
And I'm just laying the stamps over the top of my label
to work out which one of them might be suitable for our design.
I wanted to keep it pretty simple,
so I did end up deciding on this little bee,
but I don't want the whole design,
so I'm going to first ink up the entire stamp,
and then I'm going to take a wet wipe
and I'm going to wipe off any areas that I don't want that ink.
We only want that little bee,
so I'm just wiping off every other section.
I am not going to be using any sort of backer on this
because I need to be able to come in now
and press that stamp right into the label,
and it is a little bit recessed,
so I needed to have that flexibility.
And when I am ready, I will pull that stamp straight up.
As I'm going to be applying this to an uneven surface,
I'm using my hairdryer to heat up the resin label first
so that it becomes a little bit flexible,
and then I'm going to use some hot glue on the back
so that we can attach it to the basket.
If I ever want to take this off,
I'll just have to heat that glue up again
and I can replace the label.
And here's how our third basket turned out.
This was a quick and easy update,
but definitely something that you could customise to suit your tastes.
Let me know what you think of this in the comments.
For this project, I'm going to be giving this basket a makeover.
I loved the shape,
and I had seen a few ideas on Pinterest that I wanted to try out.
I'm going to be using Redesign's Delicate Flora Mould.
I'm going to be pouring out equal parts A and B of my fast-set resin
and then stirring it really well for about 30 seconds.
I'm then going to start pouring out my resin
into the pieces that I think will work well for this project,
not exactly sure which ones I'm going to use,
so I did pour out quite a few.
I'm going to be attaching these castings to my basket,
and that's why we're using resin today.
Clay, I feel, would probably just dry out and fall off.
I need something that's going to be a bit stronger and last
while it's attached to this basket.
After about 10 minutes, my resin is set,
so I'm going to start taking them out of my mould.
So if I have any excess that's on the sides,
you can see I'm just carefully picking those bits off.
If they are quite a bit thick,
I can use my craft knife to get that excess off.
I'm then going to add some of my Gorilla Super Glue Gel
to the back of one of the designs and position it in the centre.
Now, these are freshly cast resin pieces,
so they are still a little bit flexible.
So you can see that as I'm applying them,
I'm able to mould them to my surface.
If these were older pieces,
I could just use my hairdryer to heat them up.
So you can see that whatever I'm doing on the right-hand side,
I'm then mirroring on the left-hand side.
I really feel that this Delicate Flora mould
was absolutely perfect for this basket.
I needed something dainty, something that was the right scale
so that it didn't overwhelm the basket,
and I really feel like these were perfect.
But obviously, if you're going to try this at home,
just whatever floral moulds that you have around,
I'm sure would work perfectly.
Once I have all of my resin pieces glued down and the glue is dry,
I'm going to take my Fusion Hotel Robe Milk Paint.
I'm going to measure out a capful
and then put it in a plastic container,
and then I'm going to measure out equal amounts of water to mix with it.
If you want it a little bit thicker,
you just go a little bit less than the amount of powder.
And then I'm just going to use my paintbrush to stir it.
I don't mind if I get a few lumps in my mixture.
I'm then going to start applying it to the base of my basket first.
You can see I've just popped a paper towel underneath.
Obviously, this paint is quite a bit runny.
I'm not worried about it adhering to the cane
because cane is quite porous and milk paint loves to stick to that.
However, on the second coat,
I will be speeding up the drying process
and aiming for some cracks and also some texture.
I want this to look like an older basket.
Right now, I'm working that milk paint
over the top of our resin pieces that we've glued on,
and I am loving how this is looking so far.
Very shabby chic.
So I'm going to continue making my way around the basket,
adding that milk paint,
obviously also applying it to the bottom and the handle.
And I don't mind if I do have some of that cane colour peeking through.
Again, we're going for a bit of a shabby look here,
so we don't need it to be perfect.
So I'm going to flip it over.
I'm going to add it to the bottom of the basket as well.
Now, obviously, you could use spray paint for this or chalk paint,
but I really love the old-world feel that milk paint provides.
On the second coat, as I said before,
I did speed up the drying process
to get some cracking happening and also some texture.
Once my milk paint was completely dry,
I took Paint Couture's Autumn Sage Chalk Paint,
and I'm using a small artist brush
to go in and paint over the details that are looking like leaves.
Now, some of them do look a bit more like swirls and things,
but we're treating them like leaves.
I'm going to go in and add that paint to each of those details.
Being a spring craft,
I'm obviously loving using the more pastel muted colours.
Obviously, you could go in a little bit darker
or you could even just come in with some dark wax
and just leave the colour out altogether.
It just depends what look you're going for.
Once I was finished painting the leaves,
I took Paint Couture's French Rose Mineral Paint,
and I'm going to add it to each of the little flower details.
After I finished painting the flowers,
I took some more of that Autumn Sage paint,
and now I'm just adding it to anywhere that I see
those extra little reed details
where they've wrapped it around the basket.
I'm just loving the pop of the pastel colour
against that lovely bright milk paint.
Now, ordinarily, once I had finished painting
and my paint was dry,
I would use a wax to seal my milk paint.
However, because this is a basket with lots of tiny details,
I'm just going to use Rust-Oleum's Clear Matte Sealer
to seal the entire basket
after I have done my wet distressing here.
I'm just trying to bring back a little bit
of the white milk paint underneath.
And here's our finished Shabby Chic basket.
I love how this turned out.
I feel like this basket is completely refreshed.
Let me know what you think of this in the comments.
As project, I'm going to be giving
this little mini basket case here a makeover.
It actually reminds me a little bit of a picnic basket.
Now, I really loved the shape,
but I wasn't too keen on the orange colour
or that green stripe,
so I'm going to be using Paint Couture's
Driftwood Mineral Paint over the top of the entire piece.
Paint Couture's Mineral Paint has a built-in primer
and a built-in top coat,
so I'm definitely saving myself a few steps by using this.
You could probably use this in a sprayer
if you prefer to spray your paint,
or you could get a spray can of some kind and paint this.
That would probably be the easier option,
but I really enjoy painting baskets,
so this wasn't too hard at all,
and it only really took one and a bit coats.
The second coat was just a little touch-up.
I'm going to be painting the entire outside of the basket,
the bottom of the basket,
and I'm also going to be opening it up
and painting the inside as well.
If I inspire you to try any of the Paint Couture products
used in today's video,
I would really appreciate it
if you would use my affiliate link.
I will put it in the description and on the screen.
I just get a little thank you from Paint Couture in return.
Next, when my paint was completely dry,
I took out IOD's Lover of Flowers Transfer Pack,
and I'm going to be cutting out this lovely daisy image.
I really love the colours on this,
and I think it's gonna go beautifully without driftwood.
I am going to be taking out some drop cloth scraps
that I have.
This is just a little rectangle of the fabric,
and right here, I'm just working out
how much I'm going to need
to be able to use it with the transfer.
I'm just tearing my edges
so that they have a vintage frayed look,
and then once I'm happy with the size of that,
I'm going to peel the backing off the transfer
and then position that in the bottom section.
I decided I wanted to make the little patch
or whatever you wanna call it a little bit smaller,
so we're putting it down the bottom,
and then once I'm happy with that, I'm going to press down.
I'm then gonna use my transfer stick
to go over the top of the entire image.
Now, I always have one hand holding that transfer down,
especially on fabric because obviously it can move,
and I don't wanna accidentally slip
and then tear my transfer,
so I'm making sure it's all down.
Then I'm picking a corner, lifting that up,
and rubbing as I go,
and I especially go a little bit slower
when I'm doing the transfer on any sort of fabric
because some areas will stick quicker than others.
You've gotta be really careful of all those little edges
and all those little details.
It's just best to go slow
so that you don't accidentally wreck your transfer.
You'll also notice that I cut off the word DAISY
from down the bottom.
I wasn't sure if I was going to use it,
but in the end, after I've burnished down the entire design
and trimmed it to size,
I did decide to grab that little DAISY label,
and I'm going to be adding that
down the bottom underneath our design.
I'm going to be attaching our little floral patch
to the top of the basket using my hot glue gun.
I'm going to be putting little dabs of glue
in each of the corners
and also at certain points along the sides as well
just so that it's nice and secure.
I didn't use any hot glue just in case I decided
that I wanted to change over what patch I was using.
I would just reheat and reactivate that glue,
and I'll be able to swap it over if I want to make a change.
Once I have that all completely stuck down,
I decided to take out these little thumbtacks.
They're a lovely gold colour,
and I'm just going to press them through the basket.
The top section is thick enough
that I'm not having any issues with it staying in there,
and it's not going to affect anything on the inside.
So I'm going to put one in each corner,
and I actually really love the gold here
because it ties in really nicely
with the colours on the DAISY transfer.
I'd like to mention that I also took
the little floral patch outside,
and I sprayed it with Rust-Oleum's Clear Matte Sealer.
And here's our first finished basket.
I really love how this turned out,
and I think it's a very versatile piece.
I could see this being used for seed storage,
perhaps as a little sewing box
to keep your threads and buttons in.
Lots of possibilities.
Let me know what you think of this in the comments.
For my next project,
I'm going to be working on this flat basket tray.
I'm going to, first of all, measure out some drop cloth
because I'm basically going to be treating this
like a frame.
So we're going to be creating our own artwork
that's going to sit in the centre of the basket.
So I'm going to trim the drop cloth to the size that I want,
always double-checking how it's going to sit
because I'm envisioning the art that we're creating
is going to sit on the indented part of the basket.
You could flip it over and use the back as well
if you wanted.
So I'm just cutting it to the size that I am going to want.
And I am also going to be tearing and fraying the edges
as well, again, for that vintage look.
Next, I need to iron out the fabric for what we want to do.
So I'm going to wet it with my mister first,
and then I'm using my craft iron.
You could always use an iron that has a steam setting
for this, but I'm just out in my shop,
so I don't have that with me.
I only have my craft iron,
so that's a good idea if that's all you've got.
I'm then going to be using Paint Couture's Extreme Guard in Gloss,
and I'm actually going to lay down a coat of that Extreme Guard
over the top of the fabric.
Ultimately, what I'm wanting to do here
is to seal the fabric a little bit for our next step
because if the product seeps in too quickly,
it's just not going to work what I want to do.
So I'm going to lay down a full coat,
and then I'm going to dry that really well front and back.
Next, I'm going to be using a piece from the Melange Inlay.
This is going to be the second use,
and I previously used it with paint.
I'm going to be using Paint Couture's Gloss Extreme Guard top coat again.
I'm going to lay down another very generous coat
because when you're using paint inlays,
they need to go into a wet paint product,
or you can use a clear coat.
Something to keep in mind is that this is not going to be perfect.
This is the second use of this paint inlay,
so it's going to be more faded.
It's not going to be as detailed.
So I am already knowing that it's going to look very worn,
very vintage, very faded, but that's perfect.
That's fine for our project today.
So once I've got a nice, generous coat down,
I'm going to lay my paint inlay design side down,
and I'm going to start smoothing it out with my fingers.
I've got a lot of wrinkles in this one, but that's fine.
It's not going to affect the use.
And then I'm going to take my water mister
and I'm going to mist the inlay really well.
This is going to help to activate those paint pigments in the inlay.
And then I'm going to take a wet wipe
and I'm going to start smoothing my design down further,
spreading that water,
really making sure my entire design is saturated and down.
I let that dry completely,
and then I took out my mister and misted it again.
You really want to soak this again really well
to help it to be able to release.
And then I picked a corner and I started pulling it back.
I was a little bit nervous
that I wasn't going to see any of the design,
but once I got to the areas
that would have been more heavily pigmented,
I could see that beautiful artwork coming through.
So, again, you can see it's a lot lighter.
It's actually almost like a brown colour.
The text isn't as bright, but that's OK.
This is meant to look like a vintage artwork,
maybe a scrap off an artist's canvas,
and the basket is going to be our frame.
So I'm actually really happy with how this turned out.
I think it looks lovely and vintage.
I'm then going to turn my attention to the basket.
I am going to be giving that basket
the same chocolate water mix that we created,
the wash that we added to the jug.
I'm going to be applying that over the entire basket.
I think the contrast of the chocolate wash
compared to the light tone of the drop cloth
and, obviously, the paint inlay design
is going to be really lovely.
I think it will pair really well together.
So I only did one coat of this wash over the entire basket,
so I did flip it over and do the other side.
So I went with pretty natural colours
that you would probably see on a lot of baskets
and cane products naturally,
but you could definitely go in a different direction.
I think this could look lovely in perhaps a duck egg blue wash.
It really does depend on your style
and, obviously, also what artwork you're going to make
because you could go in any direction with this.
It just depends what artwork you're going to create.
After my basket was dry,
I took out my paint inlay artwork that I created,
and I'm going to start attaching it with hot glue,
just adding little beads of glue in each of the corners
and along the edges.
Now, I did seal the fabric
with Rust-Oleum's Satin Clear Coat off-camera.
I sealed that with a spray sealer
because sometimes when you're brushing on a clear coat,
you can reactivate those pigments,
and I didn't want to accidentally do that
and wreck the lovely faded artwork that we created.
Another reason that I'm using hot glue
is so that if I want to change this out,
I can just reactivate that glue with a heat gun,
and I could put a different artwork that I made in there.
Once I was finished attaching it, I took out some white wax,
and I'm going to be going over
the entire outside sections of the basket.
I'm loving how the white wax is catching
all of the beautiful details in that cane.
Now, if you don't have wax,
you could achieve a similar result
by dry brushing on some white chalk paint, perhaps.
I just really loved how this caught those details,
really highlighted them,
but it was still subtle enough
that it didn't detract from the artwork.
And here's our finished basket wall art.
I'm really pleased with this project.
It was fun to try something different,
and I definitely think this is a really great way
to display some handmade art.
I could see this on the wall or on a shelf,
lots of possibilities.
Let me know what you think of this in the comments.
For our final two projects today,
I'm going to be using these sweet little baskets
with handles.
Now, they are two different sizes,
so I thought they would be a lovely little set.
I thought I'd have to cut those handles off,
but I was able to actually pull the handles out.
I'd say the glue that was holding them in place
has probably since dried up, so that was lucky.
So I'm removing those.
Now, my thought with this was
that I would create two little pedestal baskets.
So I have these little candlesticks that I bought online.
I think you can get them from Amazon,
and I was going to attach them to the bottom of both.
Ultimately, I only end up doing that to one.
I'm going to be preparing the surface of the candlesticks
with Paint Couture's 2-in-1 Primer in Grey,
and I am doing this because they are a very slick surface,
so I need to make sure that I prime this
so that my paint will stick and stay there.
So I'm going to do two coats on my little candlestick bases
and let them dry completely.
Next, I'm going to be using
Paint Couture's Farmhouse Linen Chalk Paint.
I'm going to be applying it to the candlestick bases.
I'm just doing it in a dabbing and stippling motion,
again, to reduce the appearance of brushstrokes,
and I did end up doing three coats of this
just to get the coverage that I wanted.
This is quite a lovely bright white.
I then moved on to the baskets themselves,
and I'm going to be applying that same Farmhouse Linen
to the outside and inside of the baskets.
I'm not going to be doing the base just yet
because when you are gluing something together,
you really should make sure that the surfaces are clear,
so if I add the paint,
I might accidentally have the paint coming off,
so it's just best to wait to paint
until after you've glued pieces together.
So I'm applying my paint with a brush.
Again, if you find this a bit too tedious,
you could add your paint to a sprayer to do this
or just use a spray can of white paint, perhaps, for this step.
I personally love using chalk paint.
It sticks really well to most surfaces like this
that have a little bit of a porous nature to them.
So I'm going to be applying two coats on each of the baskets,
again, just leaving the bottom until a little bit later.
When my two coats of paint were dry,
I then took out some of my Gorilla Super Glue.
I'm going to be applying that
to the top rim of the painted candlestick,
and then I'm also going to be using some hot glue as well
so that it has that immediate hold,
so just adding some little beads of glue
along the top outside edge.
I'm then going to be flipping the basket upside down
and then attaching the candlestick to the basket.
Flipping it upside down gives you a better idea
of the fact that it's in the centre,
so it's definitely a good idea to do that.
Moving on to the other basket,
I have this resin casting that I have in my stash.
I think it was from one of IOD's Labels Moulds,
a retired design.
I'm then going to take out IOD's Traditional Pots Transfer.
I really wanted to use some of the blue designs
because I liked the combination of the blue
with the creams and the whites.
I'm also not going to be painting my resin casting.
Again, I like the cream with the white.
So I've trimmed off this small text.
I'm going to take off the word Paris first
because I want that to go up the top,
and I know I'm going to have to trim and adjust the layout
of this text to fit my section in the centre
because obviously it's not very big.
I'm going to continue to trim the transfer,
just taking little bits and pieces off
that I think will work.
I definitely want this longer section
down the bottom as well.
I believe it could be an address,
so I just really liked the variation in text size.
So I've trimmed it all apart,
and now I'm going to take the backing
off the Paris design first
and then position that up the top.
This was a little bit fiddly, a little bit tricky,
so I definitely went quite slow.
And I'm just using my transfer tool to rub and burnish that.
I'm going slow.
You can see I've got my fingers
holding that in place as well.
Then I'm going to pick a corner
and I'm going to lift that up as I rub.
I then repeated the same steps
for the rest of the small text transfers.
For the smallest text,
after I'd removed the backing and positioned it in place,
I actually ended up just using my fingernail to do this
because it was such tiny lettering.
Of course, you could still use
the corner of the transfer tool.
I just went with my nails.
So just make sure you go really slow
when you're working with text this small.
Next, I'm going to use my hairdryer
to heat up my resin piece.
It has been cast for a while,
so obviously I am going to have to heat it up
so that it will become pliable.
Then I'm going to add some hot glue to the back
and I'm also going to be adding
some of my Gorilla Super Glue as well,
just for a little bit of extra hold,
just adding a few little dabs of that.
And then once I'm happy with that,
I will add some hot glue to the back
and I will be adding it to the surface of the basket
and really moulding it.
So I have heated it up so it is warm.
So I'm just bending it.
And then I did actually take out my hairdryer
and apply a little bit more heat again
just to help it curve to the surface.
And here's a look at our finished projects.
I think these turned out really sweet.
The IOD mould with the transfers on it
really takes that basket to a whole new level
and adding the candlestick to the basket
brings it to new heights.
Let me know what you think of these in the comments.
Project is this lovely basket.
For this project,
I'm going to be using IOD's new Primitive Mould.
I'm going to be using some resin.
This is craft cast resin.
I do usually use Amazing Casting Resin.
Same principle,
I'm pouring part A out into a measuring cup
and then I'm going to need to pour part B out
with the exact same amount.
So exact same measurements for each
and then you combine them and stir them really well.
This cures in about 10 to 15 minutes.
So it definitely makes it easier
to get your craft projects done pretty quick.
So I have part A and part B together.
Now I'm going to stir it really well
and I'm going to be pouring my resin into the entire mould.
I want to cast all of these
because we're doing a few projects with this today.
You can also use clay with these moulds,
but because of the project I'm doing today,
I need the stability of the resin as opposed to clay.
It will really just come down
to what project you're working on.
Once I have all of my moulds cast,
I need to work out my layout.
I decided that this lovely flower would be the centre.
So I'm going to pull that one out
and I want the bunnies to go either side.
I love these little leaping bunnies.
These are definitely my favourite part of the primitive mould.
I'm using hot glue to attach my castings.
You can always use super glue if you want.
I think that hot glue is definitely going to be enough.
Now, my casting was a little bit rigid
because I'd waited a bit long,
so I'm using my heat gun to soften it a little bit
and then adding a bit more glue where needed.
Once I have that down,
I'm going to add some glue to the back of my rabbits
and position them in place.
If you wanted to do something similar with the basket that you have
but maybe the folk art look isn't for you,
remember, IOD has a lot of gorgeous moulds
that you could do this with.
I then decided that I wanted to add some elements down the bottom,
so I'm going to grab these two larger fronds,
I guess you could call them,
and I want to have something in the centre,
so I've taken this little star flower.
I'm not sure exactly what it's called, sorry.
I've added some glue and I'm gluing that in the centre,
and then I'm going to add the little fronds either side.
So, from what I have gathered in doing my research on folk art,
it is all about symmetry,
and so I've really tried to think about this
while I was putting my composition together.
Once I had all my castings glued down,
I'm taking some of Dixie Belle's Buttercream Chalk Mineral Paint,
I'm dabbing off the excess,
and now I'm going to be doing some dry brushing
over the entire basket.
I really feel like doing this will help bring those tones together
and really help make it look a bit more like a cohesive project.
Once I've finished dry brushing the outside,
I'm going to repeat the same process on the inside of the basket
and on the bottom as well.
I was happy with how this was looking,
but felt like I really wanted to blend those moulds in
just a little bit more,
so now I'm coming in with some of Dixie Belle's Bestang Wax.
I'm going to add this warm brown tone to each of the castings.
I'm wiping back the excess,
and I really feel like this is bringing those tones together
and, again, just making it look like those pieces belong together.
I'm using wax, but if you do not have access to wax,
you could also achieve a similar look
with a paint wash or a glaze, perhaps.
And, again, it just depends what look you're going for.
I did white dry brushing on this, but maybe you prefer a grey tone,
so you would use a grey paint for your dry brushing
and then use a grey wax or a grey paint wash
to try and blend your moulds together.
Next, I'm going to come in with just a little bit more
of my buttercream on my brush,
and I'm going to be doing a bit more dry brushing.
Again, this is just going to really help those tones blend together,
and it's also going to catch some of those high points
to highlight the details.
Once my paint is dry,
I'll seal the entire basket with Rust-Oleum's Clear Matte Sealer.
And here's our finished basket.
I love how this turned out.
I feel like those castings really look like
they're a part of that basket now,
and I think it definitely gives not just folk art,
but definitely French country vibes.
Let me know what you think of this in the comments.
I really hope that you enjoyed this video collection,
and you can find the products used in this video on our website,
theprovincialfarmhouse.com.au.
If you haven't already, I would love it if you would hit that subscribe button,
like, comment, and share this out to a friend
that you think might enjoy it.