6-bolt vs. 7-bolt (4g63) 1gina2g

While y'all were away, some things happened in my drawers. True story. And it's all because of this bad boy right over here that I blew up way back in the day. You saw me drag this crate in here at the end of the previous video. This is my GSX's factory original, numbers matching, October 94 production, 7-bolt 4G63. It's all those things at once. Its best day was 421 at the wheels, previously a 1220ET, and my best mile per hour was 121. None of those happened on the same day. Any video that you've seen with my GSX running had this block in it with stock crank, eagle rods, and JE pistons. It's fresh out of machining, but it's still a mess. At no point before or after that was it cleaned. That's my job, and it still has some stuff in it that I need to carefully take out and sort before I go all out doing that. While I do things that you've seen me do and explain before, I'd rather take this moment to confess a bad decision I made in 2012 involving this engine. I chose not to rebuild it and to try to build what I thought might be my dream engine. That turned into everything but. Going back the normal way meant buying one of everything again. Not only that, but having to repeat the most difficult automotive jobs that I've ever done. Never documented those before, so I thought people would like them. They dang near killed my channel. I'm giving this a somewhat pointless buff for its reintroduction again, so that you can see why I powder coat engines. And I'm going to bag its intergenerational twin up for now while I do this, because I'm about to make a mess in here. If you're trying to keep up appearances with a show car, nothing's higher maintenance than paint. But over time, powder coated cast iron takes on a sort of raku-like appearance up close. I think that's the nicest way I can avoid calling it old and wrinkly. But powder coat is easier to clean, has excellent chemical resistance, and stays put unlike paint. I'm not recoding this block. When it's clean, it still looks pretty good, it's black, and it's going to get buried deep under lots of other really shiny distracting stuff. All this character is its history, and I can't recreate it if I try to take it away, but this is the one right here. This is the OG. The core plugs are gone. The holes need a good clean up and detail with sandpaper and solvents before I give this thing its bath. You've seen me do most of this, but it didn't all go the same way this time around. So that validates the context of why we're going to do it all really fast again this time. Basically, this block's on the ground floor just like I blew it up 13 years ago, only it's had its main problem solved and the new parts fitted. I had no plans to rebuild it back when I blew it up, but I rebooted this one once I started working on the galant. Seems to be the smart thing to do. Putting all my eggs in that 6-bolt block basket really derailed the usefulness of my GSX, to say the least. I totally admit that. That was me getting in the way. I should have just fixed the 7-bolt to start with because there's nothing wrong with a 7-bolt. Nothing at all. Nothing wrong with the 6-bolts either. I like them both. 7-bolt's got a built-in girdle though. You might recognize the ACL part number except this is a calico box. They didn't start life as calicos though. It's a metamorphosis. This is extra and they were fitted, so I'm being meticulous labeling and filing these bearings back into their box. There's a whole lot of other calico boxes in here in this drawer. Takes a whole lot of time and money to coat bearings, but coatings are a great way to nail your clearances with accuracy while building in some added resiliency. Good news on the bores as they've already been honed and prepped. You see the oil squirter jets have been removed. This one has jets drilled and tapped off the mains. This changed again later for the 4G63, but I believe in them. I use them and I've got brand new ones to put back in it. I like oil squirters. I don't like stripped main oil galley plugs though. Hate those. Can't torch this because powder coat. We just teleported forward in time to one of my failures. I tried everything in my bag of tricks shy of a torch and this thing is not coming out. In addition to the thread sealant that Mitsubishi applies to the plug, during the powder coating it flowed the threads when it was baked, backfilling the plug with a thick coating that's not going to budge. I got this thing glowing red hot multiple times welding nuts on it. Even a thick piece of tungsten at one point to get stupidly desperate with it and it never budged in either direction. I could not get it to turn. It's one with a block so I ground it smooth. However, I do feel fully compelled to clean all this back up at least to tip its hat to the old king of bling block. I do all of my rough cleaning first because it helps me pay it forward on the cleaning supply bill. If I break up all the scale of sandpaper and wire brushes and manual labor, then I use less of the chemicals and coffee filters later. You can always find more RTV hiding out in here. Look around here and there and of course, like always, whenever I have the opportunity on a thing that I'm refreshing, I'm chasing all the bolt holes everywhere to ensure a smooth assembly. I don't appreciate having a troublesome hole. Lots of stuff to bolt on here still, and you've already got an idea of what's coming for this one since you watched some of the six bolt twin getting built. All these holes are going to get filled up with some really cool stuff. Suddenly, we're back on the shop floor putting an engine stand on this thing after failing to get that plug out. My previous explanation saved us a whole lot of time versus if I were successful with it. Then I'd be gloating and you don't want to hear that. And I don't have time for that. I got work to do. Yeah, I'm going to boil it again. Go for the second use of the trash can since I had success with it the first time. If I can do two blocks with it, it's like I've got half my original investment. Yeah, 50% off. Anyway, beyond filling 16 gallons of distilled water into this thing, I also want to thoroughly degrease the block before it even goes in there. More than once, in other words. So I start with mineral spirits to cut the fill from the funk, followed by compressed air, which really does all the heaviest lifting with, yeah, with the mineral spirit. And with the flammable stuff out of the way, then fire up the can and get that water really, really hot. I'm talking like on the verge of boiling. It's several hours later now. See all the little bubbles down there? Oop, there's one. There were many more the first time I lifted the lid on this thing. And now here's the part where this gets really painful. I get to hand wash my block with that stupid hot water and some soap. That's the second degreasing cycle. And I get fancier with it this time, but it's really, really hot. This is hotter than any hot water heater in anyone's house is going to make. Anyone cleaning anything with water above 150 degrees needs far more safety gear than you see me using right here. It can scald in under a second at that point and will hurt really bad the whole time it's doing it. A good while after it, too. And then it starts itching because you're lightly seared. Or you can look at this as pain threshold conditioning. The brushes aren't so bad, but the sponge is absolute murder. Double gloves are fine until either one of them gets filled up with hot water. That's when the pain train comes through. And now that I've got that all filled up with soap, it's time to get this thing off the engine stand, put a handle on it. Yeah, I'm standing on my crankshaft for this. I needed a step. What? And then dunk it in there and boil it for a couple of hours. Oh, man. Daggone it. I've got to think quick. This is like a reverse boat sinking. So I'm going to try to jam some wood in it. The hole's too small, though. So I need a smaller piece of wood. And the water's too dang hot. So I grab a nail. Nail doesn't fit. Poke a bigger hole in it. And it's a crack. So I try to screw. And that's too dang hot. And I'm burning myself. This sucks. I need to make a bigger hole that I can fit wood in. Sometimes you got to do that. And look, progress. The wood will swell up with the hot water. I've just got to get it situated so it's leaking as little as possible. And over time, it's going to get better. Keep my eye on the level and keep adding water as necessary. If I can keep that flame hot enough, that is. And though this looks horrible, it was something that I was able to work with. It's better than where we started with the surprise hole. The fast motion video makes it look a whole lot worse than it really is. And as the wood swelled up, it got even less and less over time. All in all, it leaked six gallons over two hours. And two hours is long enough to put all that heat into the block. And as you can see by the oily film layer on top that's floating around, you know, and the ring that it left around the can. Yeah, this one's turned the water nice and brown. It's filthy, that's for sure. But so far, everything you've seen happen in this video is safe from powder coating. If I do something that isn't, I'll tell you. But that's an important consideration for me all along this journey. It's an extremely durable finish, but there's a lot of ways that you can really mess it up. Look, I finally got a blue flame out of the thing. I'm impressed. You know, you can screw up its appearance cleaning it. Let's go ahead and get this block out of here. Get the final scrub, rinse, oil, and who am I kidding? I'm going to be rubbing all over this thing for the next 10 years because all the polish crap I'm going to bolt on it. Of course, it's a lot warmer out here than it was the last time I did this, so I have to work even faster to do this. After one final blisteringly hot soapy scrub and a rinse with some of the brown water, I immediately soak the whole thing in WD-40 before it begins to cool. I end up doing multiple coatings and fully wipe it dry, make sure to spray down in the bolt holes and in the oil galleys, main oil galley, coat everything, and by the time I'm done, even the powder coat is clean. The crackly aged raku-like appearance has the potential to hold on to junk, and that's why it takes multiple coats to displace it with clean oil until all that lifts out. Some have asked why I don't use carb cleaner or brake cleaner for my engine assemblies and with everything that's happened up until now, denatured alcohol is all that's required to completely degrease the journals that I just oiled. Denatured has all of the alcohols and the fusel oils in it, and that's the reason why it's so toxic, but all of them fully evaporate at human sustainable temperatures, leaving no residue behind. The oil in the grit stays in the coffee filter and you can see that when you're done. It's just a consistent method that I'm most comfortable with using, that's my madness behind this method. Coatings, don't destroy the coatings. Saves me lots of brain cells too. I've got several parts orders that all of my projects get to benefit from, and I'm happy to present to you a brand new alternator and starter for the Gallant to take care of that sticky solenoid and remove all doubt. Also, a ball joint for Big Red. I've already put the other one on it, it's a long story. Anyway, in this box from Extreme PSI, there's another fluid damper crank pulley because the GSX didn't lose, it just lost out on getting the old new one. They both did the right thing, so they're both winners. And in this other box here is all kinds of 2G 7V stuff in it to fill in all the blanks that I discovered while building the other two engines in the last video. I've got 1 1⁄8 inch NPT plugs for the head, I think I've got enough, but I got some more just in case. Crush washers, oil dipstick tube o-rings, new bolts for the idler and happy face pulleys as well as the idler and happy face pulleys themselves. There's a brand new oil pickup tube, oil strainer bolts to go with it. But what I got in this other box here, this is cool, sure wish I had this thing before telling the GSX I had to race that Gallant block. This is an SCE 6V-7V 4G63 Evo 1-3 hybrid head gasket, featuring a sealed composite layer, and a solid stainless steel Vulcan ring that bites into the head with no machining, fitting bores up to 86.5mm. Yes, 86.5mm, which is a bit beyond what I need, so we're good. This solves all of my complaints and discrepancies from the previous video, it's going to hold everything I'm ever going to throw at it, I couldn't restrain myself from putting some of these parts on this Gallant block and give you a little update on some of the things that are sorted out now on it behind the scenes. Several parts needed work, some were wrong or completely missing, and I scraped all that up, refinished everything, except that AC tensioner because it's fine just the way it is. The timing mount and all of its bolts, brackets, bits have all been blasted, painted, chased, and they're all present and accounted for. Gonna do the two front nuts last because that's where I bolt my engine hoist. I have a nasty 1G power steering pump I could have rebuilt, but there's this brand new unit that was in a box and it's a shame that it has no pressure switch, because I needed that. That's the broken one off the Gallant. Alternator, of course, and the exhaust hanger bracket, clear coated. Nice. For the exhaust, I'm giving this one the FP manifold because that fittingly has stood the test of time, and that's a logo I want front and center in my engine bay. And you have to admit that old school bush or fuel pressure regulator looks sweet up there with it. Period correct mod for that Gallant. This is the second AC bracket assembly I've put on here, and it'll be different again the next time you see it. And there's your minute and 12 second update on the Gallant. If we were to go any further, there's the 3 eighth inch BSPT plug to take care of the vacuum solenoid thing for the, or the thermal vacuum, whatever that is for the EGR valve. It's going away. I need to rebuild the throttle body. There's the throttle body for that. Yep. We're going to rebuild that thing, and there's all the gaskets and seals for it. Remarkably, there's a set of factory throttle body shaft seals which don't exist anywhere else. And also, I got a set of injector seals. So there you go. Minute and 30 seconds. That's all you get. Now that that's over with and a couple of days have passed, only the contamination that couldn't be removed with a sponge and soapy water still remain. That's what this wire brush is all about. Some of that baked on decades old funk is pretty tough, but after what all it's been through with the degreasing and the detergents and the hot bath and stuff, it's clean dirt and rust too. It's clean rust. This is the closeup of the main journal stepped oil hole to the main galley. Going to need several different sized brushes for these. The only different thing about this with a seven bolt on a 2G versus the first gens and the Evos is the teeny tiny little oil squirter bores off the mains. These are actually easier to clean. Skip the bores deck bearing journals with the brushes. Yeah. Stay away from those. I use the other stuff for that, but I do it everywhere else on the bare casting. It works great for the oil pan and the front case flanges too. You won't hurt any of those with a steel wire brush. All of what's left at this stage comes off like dust very easily with the wire brushes. You just have to touch every square millimeter with it is all. I can't hot tank it in solvents because of the powder coat and that would have saved me a whole lot of this work, but these are methods that could work for anyone at home with things they can find at their local hardware store to do the exact same thing if they found themselves in similar circumstances. Or if they didn't know the history of a used engine that they had come across that they wanted to rebuild. Water is not the ideal medium. It's just an inexpensive and really effective one if you take all the right precautions and steps while drying it. I made a whole video all about this, but I wanted you to see that it's really easy to permanently downgrade the cleaning vessel right back into a trash can. I'll never forget how it went to war for me while I assembled these engines. They got me all the way through it. That thing's a unit. It aspired to be so much more than it is, but alas it is now just a trash can forever. I did all the same stuff to clean the girdle too. It went in the can right after I pulled the block out and it got plenty of attention. It didn't cook anywhere near as long, but it didn't need it. I just wanted you to know that I did the thing to it I didn't forget. This absolutely will damage and destroy all of your coatings, so you have to be really careful using it. I want to add a little more context to the block fishing segment I did with the Gallant. Because I can't get the plug out, I just used something as a ramrod to jam the ear plug and coffee filter lure to the other end of the bore. If you feel it hang up going in, don't force it. Just pull it out and try again. The ear plug is ideal in my opinion because you can crush it and so long as you move faster than it expands, you can get it past any problem areas or snags easily using the ramrod. Problem solved. But don't dare use anything less than 20 pound test to do this because the inside of that hole is coarse, segmented, and full of things that it can snag on. It just takes steady pressure to get the thing back out. Remember the ear plug responds to pressure and squishes, so you just treat it like you would if you were catching a fish. I mean, you're not trying to pull the fish's face off or just reel in its lips. Just maintain a healthy pressure on it and the ear plug will deform itself enough to eventually get past it. You see that? That's how you don't break your line off and also how you land that fish. Gradual pressure does the trick. It doesn't take 20 pounds of pressure to compress an ear plug, so it's not going to break on you unless you're impatient or a vegetarian. I got smart this time around and test fitted the frontline fabrication oil pump prior to installing stuff. I found it interesting that the seven bolt needed more grinding than the six bolt did, but I can't speak for all the variants of these castings. This is just one of those things that you need to test fit on your block on your particular casting. I learned from my mistakes, so now I fit it first. And if you blinked, you missed it. I just installed the first part back onto the block. I always like to start with that stud mainly because after I remove it, I'm always afraid I'm going to lose it. But this is a turning point. Assembly just began and now I'm going to keep rolling with the freeze plugs. Using Indian head gasket shellac again because this stuff works incredibly well for this. If there's an imperfection in either the plug or the hole that might cause it to leak, then this stuff sets and holds that pressure. I put a thick bead all the way across the 90 degree bend where it's stamped and halfway down the outside edge because this stuff is so sticky it's going to actually pull itself into the bore as you drive that plug in. It doesn't wipe off and separate. You'll see it stretch into what looks like hair when you pull the applicator wand out of the bottle and it's going to glob itself back together. But it dries like tar. I clean the daylight out of these bores to prevent leaks and the plug is supposed to seal up the hole all by itself without it. So to me, it's just extra insurance. Nobody wants to dig into a fully assembled engine just to replace one stupid inexpensive leaky core plug. Seven of the small ones on a seven bolt, unlike the six bolt which has nine of them, but the 2G has two big ones on the intake side which naturally are one part number higher. There's your first one of many differences to come. We talked about the bore holes for the 2G oil squirters and this is what those look like. Check valve, oil seal, oil jet, and fastener of sorts all is one assembled thing and because it's an interference fit, they can all be removed or installed with a hammer and a punch. They don't go very deep and you can see how they get their oil supply right there from the oil groove below the bearing. These squirters cannot contribute to any of the crank walk theories or bearing failures. The check valves open at like 10 or 11 pounds and if your car can't leak this orifice size's worth of oil times four and maintain more than 11 pounds of oil pressure, then brother, these things were never your problem to begin with. No balance shafts in this one either, so I'm rotating the bearing holes opposite their oil galleys. I showed this tool in much greater detail in the Gallant assembly and there's nothing different about the processor. My advice for the second gens versus the first gens. Though some things are different between generations, this is one of those things that always stayed exactly the same. You can trap the end of this thing inside the 2G seven bolt block just like the 1G, so if this tool is new to you or you're trying to find this thing somewhere used, go watch that video. Spill all the in it. Every few days I clean the clean room because I track stuff in here and sometimes I make a mess. I try to keep it clean enough so that if I drop a thing, I don't contaminate it. The floor is rubber, so that won't hurt them, but the goal isn't to drop things. Keeping the floor clean just prevents stirring up dust whenever I blast things off with compressed air. The coffee filters and the packaging tends to create some dust and filming in here with bright lights tends to keep that dust airborne. Calling it a clean room is not what keeps this room clean, but cleanliness was critical at this stage because now I'm installing the main bearings back into this block right where they came from before we boiled it. Plenty of stuff to blast off with compressed air in here, and whether or not you bother to construct something like this plastic wrapped box with HEPA filtered air that I'm working into a simple your engine, the goal is simply to eliminate all the foreign material that you possibly can. While my setup's a bit extreme, it's because I have to film in here for extended periods of time, and at the very least do this in a place where there's no fallout, not a lot of traffic, and keep it clean enough where you don't introduce any foreign material to that space. Manley billet 88mm crankshaft. Already renowned for their quality control, this one received a second round with a third party with all of the weights of my other parts considered. It has the balance baked right in. We got a glimpse of part of the balancing process on the Gallant build and how it all came out within five hundredths of a gram. The two-tenths of a gram on the big ends was actually corrected on the crankshaft. I don't have the machine to show you that, but it's absolutely zeroed. I never needed to balance any of those parts. In fact, I sort of wish I didn't even check them. Ignorance would have been bliss for me, but it's only the truth-seeking intellectuals who ever fully comprehend exactly how bad they suck at something. Everything I've handled so far has been beyond the level of my expectations. The oil clearance is so exact and the surface finish is refined to an art that I have no idea why I'm even bothering with doing a plastigage test here. I already know what I'm going to find, and I was questioning myself the whole time I was filming this. The best I could come up with is because it actually does say to do this in the service manual. That's it. That's all. So, to avoid being a bad example, I went ahead and did it. Here, with the wrong color plastigage. If we're all going to really learn something from it, I should have used the green. They're all smashed just outside of the two thousandths, but they're all smashed exactly the same. The factory service manual says .0008 to .0020, so the red stuff can't even go there. It can't smash that small. I have completed the service manual's mandate, though. I did the thing, and with a consistent yet unreadable result, thanks to my own incompetence, I will now choose bliss. I don't care what the green stuff would say. I'm moving on. I've done this in multiple videos, so we're going to talk about other things here. All the bore diameters and the center lines of the 6-bolt and the 7-bolt 4G63s remain exactly the same, doesn't matter what generation they are. Even for the balance shaft bores, bearings, and spacings, all the DSM stuff uses the same main stud kit. The most significant difference between these generations, aside from how many bolts hold the flywheel on, is the width of the main and rod bearing journals. The 7-bolt mains look tiny compared to the 6-bolts we've been looking at together for the past decade, and I'm sure you've all noticed that by now, but if bigger is better, then why are all the fastest 4G7 bolts? They weren't always the fastest, and that's a hat that's been passed around quite a bit over the decades. Maybe it's even been run over a few times. Stock for stock, the 6-bolt is absolutely tougher than the 7-bolt, but both history and modern materials have proven that either one can be built to withstand over four digits worth of power, whether we're talking horsepower or torque, and every version of the 4G63 in a DSM or an Evo has already done that. I don't believe that any version of the 4G63 platform actually has an advantage. I used to feel differently about this, but some of that stuff actually isn't interchangeable, and it's mostly the really, really expensive stuff. That was what steered me away from fixing this 7-bolt after its rod bearing slash oil system failure, but here we are now with a precision balanced manly billet crank as my starting point for what's next for this thing that wasn't ever supposed to get fixed. Welcome back, buddy. What matters once you're finished is that you can turn it over with two fingers. That's the easiest way for me to telegraph over the interwebs whether or not I did it right. With what the plastic gauge test revealed, and with this thick assembly lube, if I got any single thing wrong, I wouldn't be able to do this right here. Oh yeah, let's check the thrust clearance. Exactly four thousandths on the dot. This one only keeps getting better. I did another quick clean room reset, cleared the bench of present and past projects, swapped out the pad with a brand new one. This cost me like five bucks to protect the parts on the bench. It's worth it. It's also worth five bucks not to run these things through my washing machine. Harbor Freight. But before we do the thing that I needed to do the reset for, I decided I'd rather have the rear main seal housing and a The rear main seal is one of those things that's different from 6-bolt to 7-bolt, and you've already seen me bust out the special tools for this. I've also demonstrated the alternative use of this 7-bolt tool on the 1G rear main seal housing, and we'll nod to that use at the end. But the real reason that the 2G rear main seal driver tool is flat-spotted on the bottom side is because of the shape of the casting. It's got a couple of protrusions, and if it were, you know, a complete circle, then the housing would interfere with it, and then it would force the seal in crooked. But when you use this right, it perfectly sets the depth of the rear main seal, which is not all the way down inside the housing. You don't do that. That would be bad. It works just like the other one. It's just a bigger one. Yeah, the 7-bolt crank journal for the seal is bigger, and that's because there's an extra hole in it, and that's why this tool is bigger. But anyway, yep, the 6-bolt dual use is the internal drip ring thing for the, you know, that little ring that goes around the back of the seal. In other news, there are no factory engine gasket sets left in anyone's inventory anywhere, so I've got this one. Nobody sells the factory rear main seal gasket anymore separately either. If you want one of those, you're going to have to go third party. Most 2G guys just RTV this part on. I could have, but I didn't. Okay, maybe I did a little just on once. All right, fine. I totally used it anyway, but I got this aftermarket gasket on here too. So I've never done this on an engine stand before, but the engine spacer plate thing, you need the right one for front wheel drive and for all wheel drive. They're different, you know, the starter position's different between them. Kind of important to get that right. I'm using the factory bolts for this because this label said Cherry Hill on it. That means that it's from 2003 when I did my last rebuild on it and I didn't use them the first time around. Today's a big day to get covered right back up again with the engine stand. We're done with this for now. The real reason I did the clean room reset was for the rods and the pistons. It's a collection of 52 parts that I have to do together in the correct order and orientation. In the old days, we just had to line up the pistons based off the sizes of the valve reliefs. The big ones go on the intake side, of course, and the exhaust valves are smaller. So nobody left us breadcrumbs. We just had to know that. There wasn't a direction mark like you find on modern units. Every single one of the parts has a preparation procedure and I have to get all of this 100% right the first time. The pistons in this combo are actually the exact same pistons I bought in 2003 that have about 50,000 miles on them. These are JE 9-1s. I love these and I can't find them anymore anywhere. The only difference now is that they're ceramic and skirt coated and they used to be completely bare and mirror polished. Even after the bomb went off and I limped it home missing some rod bearings, the pistons, pins, bores all came out perfectly mint. There's one knock mark on two of the pistons and that's all that they ever showed after hundreds of drag passes and dyno pulls. I weighed all four of the pins just to make sure there was nothing that might throw off the balancing that's built in here. One tried to trick me, but just like with the glyphtol block, all four are exactly the same. The rods I'm using are mainly TurboTuff I-beams. This is the same rod as I've got in the glyphtol 6-bolt, but it's a different part number because like I said earlier, the 6-bolt rods have wider journals. They're rated for a thousand plus question mark. Both of these are. Not doing that, but just I like that. I had to buy two sets of these things. Some of you know how bad one set hurts. It doesn't make sense to build two engines for one car, but that's what ended up happening because I simply do not accept failure. If I could have afforded to launch both builds, you know, rebuild both of these engines back when I blew it up the first time, I would have been using this car for the past nine years. The 7-bolt would have finished long beforehand. Crankshafts, rods, rear main seals and housings, oil pumps, water pumps, oil pans, and head bolts are all going to be parts that are not compatible across generations. Everything else you can swap. Some things require machining or clearancing, and I've made videos about all those things already. Depending on your definition of better, if one or another generation has a better part, and I didn't already mention that it's not interchangeable, then the chances are you're going to be able to make it fit pretty easily. Heads, head gaskets, mounts, pulleys, timing gears, thermostat parts, water tubes, most seals, many gaskets, even the oil squirters if you have a patient machinist, all that stuff can be swapped. It's been done before, and in the early days before the huge aftermarket selections of parts were available to the pioneers, mixed and matched parts from different generations is what they use to toughen them up or to change their airflow characteristics and make more power. This is the reason why both of my engines, whether 6 or 7-bolt, are going to have two G-cylinder heads on them. All of these were balanced differently than the work that I've had performed in the past. Removing material from rods is only one of the many possible ways to balance an engine, but it's actually not the ideal way unless you can't solve your reciprocal balance any other way. For the rotational balance, the best means is to correct their nuances in the rotational balance by grinding the crankshaft, because it offers more precision on that balance. I mentioned earlier that I don't have the machines to show you that, and that's the secret sauce in the services that I had done to all of my engines here. All of these parts are now married to this crank. You just watch me double check all the part orientations to ensure the tangs are on the exhaust side and my pistons are correct. Now let's put the rings on. JE total seals. These oil rings have a center rail that keeps it all concentric. It goes on first, followed by the two oil wiper rings that also secure it into the groove. It's hard to get either of the compression rings in the wrong order because they're different thicknesses. The only thing to note really here is that the compression rings always go on the stamped, etched, printed, or dimpled side up. The top ring is typically shiny. Yeah, it's got the shiny side, but if you look real close, you'll also see some tiny little numbers etched near the gap. Get them all oriented correctly and installed times 20. A few people gave me grief about ring orientation, and I was on here talking about rings moving all around back in 2009. I get it. I sometimes they move a little this way and then back a little that way then back. Sometimes they don't move back. They slowly creep around. If you're unlucky, they get stuck, but a whole lot of what they do really depends the most on the high-low delta of the hone job and the texture and angle of your cylinder bores. Service manual says to line them up this way during assembly, but it doesn't tell you why. The reason why is it's only to maximize your startup compression prior to the ring seating. Once they're seated, the gaps aren't going to really matter. It's going to seal a lot better, but it's the texture of the cylinder bores or the lack thereof that determines the ring's behavior, whether we're talking about their movement, sealing in general, or seating during break-in. There's a right and a wrong way to finish them if you're trying to maximize efficiency. There's a science to making all of this work harmoniously together and to hold in all the compression, to minimize blow-by gases into the crankcase, and to not burn oil. Thermal efficiency and thermal expansion play a role. Ring and block or sleeve materials play a role. These are not things you're ever going to learn how to do from watching YouTube videos, and I can't bring any of it to you, so these are only the things that you're going to learn how to do by building engines competitively for decades, and that's the value at any price of working with the best. I know how lucky I am to get my foot in this door. I'm not running any money races. I'm just a poor YouTuber, and this is not even my day job. I'm not the guy the machinist is going to brag about doing work for, so beware of the imposters out there. He's got a much more impressive pool of examples in his hat to pull from, and really, I'd be flattered if he or his crew ever did that. Honored, really. I never thought that I'd see this glyptol project rescued, but because it is, my GSX will not just have an engine, now it has options. So to he and he crew, if they ever find the time to watch this video, my whole world is a better place because of you and your team. It improved the minute this log jam cleared, and now I get to share it with my audience whom I'm grateful for being so patient and sticking around and waiting to see it. I haven't narrated this assembly because all this needed to be said. This is still just a 4G63 with all the same dimensions, fasteners, and processes as that Gallant engine we just assembled and timed in the last video. I'm not going to insult your intelligence by pretending you don't all know what you're looking at by now. Even the bolt stretch gauge is covered in that Gallant assembly. My stretch gauge, though, doesn't have the ten thousandths spot. It only does whole thousandths, and I have to estimate the ten thou decimal place, so there's better gauges for this, but I ended up with 49 pounds on number 4 and 50 pounds on everything else to get the bolt stretch right. I know for a fact the zero point on both of the number 2 before measurements were wrong because they're significantly off from the 50 pound stretch values on both of the rods right next to it, as well as that number 4 that only got 49. And now I'm sure that my zero on number 2 is off by almost a whole thousandth because I reviewed the pause the video and saw it with my own two eyes. They're all mostly around the stretch values for these bolts, very close to spec, but I also have them all torqued to the high spec between the recommended 45 to 50, so if I were trying to find the maximum limit of the power these rods could hold, I'd get that stretch gauge and repeat it until I nailed it and was sure of it, but between having to estimate and the correction value on number 2 from the video pause, I'm not going to re-stretch any of these bolts just to fix fuzzy math. They're good. I proved it. The rotating assembly is complete and this thing's got a little bit of catching up to do to match its twin over there. Might as well make it presentable for that introduction. I'm going to start with preparing the front case this time and aside from getting it squeaky clean, this one just involves installing one oil seal. I'm using the same tools as in the six bolt video because it's also the same seal and though this is a ball joint press tool, it's also a perfect fit for the bevel around the inside of that seal, so I'm very particular about crank snout seal and rear main seal alignment because I don't like leaks. They must be absolutely parallel with rotation and if you nail it, the seal is going to last longer. Hard buffed with the microfiber and finished it up with the coffee filter afterwards. First, I need to install the front case bushing so the gasket will stay put and because all the crank snouts are the same, all the tools remain the same across generations, I'm using the miller alignment tool and lubing the journal for the seal. Prepped and cleaned front line fabrication seven bolt billet gear rotor oil pump and a mix of factory bolts in different quantities plus some cap screws like we did with the six bolt front line fab case. Right now, anyone waiting for their six or seven bolt oil pump is hating me right now for having what they want, but be patient guys, you won't get anything like it anywhere else. I have a hundred percent satisfaction level in every single one of my custom fabricated parts cases and all the people that I bought them from, all of it's been worth it. Thank you guys. OE factory water pump, you know the ASIN box is the same thing, but the seven bolt and the six bolt water pumps are different part numbers and there's both of them on the label with the Japanese cars that they fit. Comes with the same water pump o-ring and gasket as the factory unit and I also bought an STM water pump bolt kit because I used all my old water pump bolts on the six bolt build. Not sure if it's just for the six bolt or what, it's probably me, but on this block there's one bolt that's just too long. I gave the water pump only nine pounds this time, I remembered. Another mistake I learned from was the cylinder head bushings. This time I didn't thread them in with the bolt, I used my plastic mallet instead. Last time I scratched the top edge of it making them both unhappy and leaving me having to clean them up and polish their edges smooth again, so plastic mallet instead. One of the problems I had to solve after modifying and repowder coating my old seven bolts timing mount to fit on the six bolt Gliptol build was having to replace the original one from this block that I stole it from. Thank you performance part out, much work needs to be done to get this one looking right. You know I'm not going to bolt it on like this, not with all these other fresh new parts like this 2g timing tensioner which is specific to my year engine. Everything for the six bolt swap into a seven bolt that you need is only on that timing mount bracket itself. For that swap you use the six bolt tensioner and the six bolt tensioner arm. Everything here is seven bolt like it's supposed to be. I knocked just enough of the crust loose for the tape to stick so I could mask it. This thing's going to go right into the blasting cabinet and find its birthday suit so that I can try my hand at powder coating again. Powder coating with gloss black is probably the hardest place to start, or the place where you're likely to learn the most about how to do it. Perspective is everything really. It often takes several coats for full coverage and the gloss to pop. If it's not thick enough then you can often see through it and in my case I had to do it three times to get about 80% of it looking perfect. This is my first part without anyone telling me what to do and there's no reason why I pay other people to do my powder coating for me. But this is a few dozen times better than where I started and it's a copy of the theme of the one that I'm replacing so masking it all only this one didn't get its timing adjuster all welded up and moved. It's otherwise identical though except for those thin spots. Yeah, all deal. Parts from the mail. Timing reluctor wheel plate for a 2g. The ARP crank damper bolt kit because the gallant can't have all the fun in the bolts too. And the last and most importantly a brand new crank timing gear because this one actually ended up being stolen by the gallant. Let's go ahead and let these two see each other again. A lot's happened since I bagged that one up and let's keep this train rolling. Because I have a brand new crankshaft I'm going to have a brand new keyway too. You don't ever want to damage this part. It's one of the most important pieces of your engine. The crank pulley bolts need this because it can't keep the engine in time all by itself. I use a brass punch to install it because it's softer than everything else and a tiny hammer to tap it lightly home until it fits just right. All brand new crankshaft timing stuff. Evo spacer and factory crank bolt. Not torquing those yet. Change is likely imminent. Now for that timing mount with the thin spots. Film it right on its bad side Jafro. This is an honest channel. Great camera work. There. Let the whole world know how bad you suck at it. Changes are likely imminent. I hadn't planned to make any changes but deep down inside I know it's going to happen because all four of these fasteners are really supposed to Same exact idler pulley as all other 4G63s. This part's never changed and I hope it never does. Another part that's the same no matter what is the timing tensioner pulley. The installation preload might change across generations by 10 inch pounds but the part number doesn't. Neither does the part number for the bolts. All the timing stuff is interchangeable whatever you need it to be for your setup. It's the tensioner itself and the tensioner arm that have to match the block you're using. It's easy to put a 1G in a 2G but not so easy to put a 2G in a 1G. If you're doing an intergenerational swap every part for your short block needs to match the block you're using. But like you've seen here most all of it's shared across both generations. Use the mounts for your chassis but keep the tensioner arm and the timing tensioner the same generation as your block. Aside from the crank, rods, wrist pins and their associated parts it's only the engine mounts themselves that really need to change. But the addition to these front line fabrication oil pumps really simplified my efforts and the parts list needed to accomplish this easily. Both generations of it provide the 2G factory crank sensor mount so there's really no need for an aftermarket sensor kit unless your ECU requires it. They really went over the top making the small details easy and it's a beautiful part. Might as well seal up these crank cases though and wrap up both of these short blocks. The 2G has a windage tray that attaches to its fake girdle. It's a bearing cage people it's not really a real girdle but it's way better than no girdle at all. So why did I not install a girdle in the glyptol block? Yeah I had one but the billet mains I have don't fit it at all with that extensive machining that costs 10 times as much as that part so billet mains are enough. I'm not even trying to go eights. This is not the fasteners for this windage tray but these are what I'm going to use. The right part number is there on the screen and you saw me put the thread locker in there to help these stay put. I'd do the same with the factory bolts too. The oil strainer bolts, ms241701, are too long to fit the front line fab front case so I went with mf241251 which are also grade 7 but a little shorter. And along with a brand new 2G oil strainer, a gasket, some thread locker to help these things stay put, all I have to do is torque it down to 14 foot pounds and I'm done. 2G oil pan, you need an oil pan that matches your front case because they're shaped differently. I'm not gluing it on yet because I sense changes are still coming and you'll see why very soon. Because sealing up that six bolt short block is going to be a whole lot more complicated. I got this new six bolt oil strainer to have to install on ARP mains again and you saw how that went. Well looks like we got a little more threads to work with this time. But I still have that small hole big stud problem to sort out and to find a way to make my leg fit. Sounds bad but I assure you that this is all contextually accurate. Aside from drilling it out to 10.2 millimeters, this time I tried something different. I countersunk the underside of the foot with a much larger bit that gives it room to fit around the head of the nut. And after vigorous blasting with compressed air, I revisited the block for another test fit to see where I'm at. I could still feel it rocking a little bit and though it looked pretty flush, that rocking meant that it wasn't. So I belt sanded the foot thinner and countersunk it even wider and hoped that it would finally seat flat. I want it to fit flush without the gasket so that no load is going to be placed on main number two once it's all tightened down. And this is what I came up with. Flat. Clean. Let's sneak some thread locker, a gasket, some bolts all up in here and give this one 14 foot pounds now. That was much easier than the gallant. Guess it all depends on your equipment and thanks to Matt's encouragement, I got to use a lathe again for the first time in 37 years to cut this exhaust nut down to about three millimeters. You can barely tell, but I wanted it to have like the crimped lock nut thing on top. And despite that, I still use thread locker all over it. Anything that attaches inside of a crank case, I do that too. The extra there at the end is just to keep the hot oil out. I'll say it again, man, that was so much easier than the gallant. Next up is foreshadowing for something that very few of you would have to know about really. I had to stud my oil pan flange and I figure I'd just go ahead and get that right out of the way. It's a lot of pieces and I want the thread locker to fully set before all that starts. Some of these are blind holes and some are not, so I started with the blind holes and then sunk all the ones that aren't just a little bit deeper because nobody wants to spend all day backing nuts off of studs that are way longer than they need to be. That's what the eyeballing a level thing is all about here, but these should set up nicely while I install the oil squirters into this block. I haven't done that yet. This thing's all up in the way, so I'm going to go ahead and install it. I'm going to use a Felpro 6 bolt oil pan gasket on this one and you saw the part number go by. I want to do this first because there's something else that you need to plan for if you get a frontline fabrication oil pump. One of the bolt holes moved on both generations of this product. You won't have a hole for one of the factory locations under the pan and you won't have a hole in the pan for the stud location that you're going to have to make, so you're not going to find me drilling a hole in my new oil pump. I'm going to do this to the pan. It's just much easier to flatten the pan with a wide flat punch and a hammer, drill a hole through it where the new hole is, and send it. This won't leak unless your pan isn't flat. These 1g squirters are a lot different from the 7 bolt units. These came back again on the Evos after the 2g DSM years. You can see how much larger and more complicated these are, how the check valves are integrated into the fastener as a separate part from the rest of the assembly with locating pins and sandwiched by crush washers. It's five parts versus the seven bolts one. They tap straight into the main oil galley. Right now my block is plugged on all four bores and sealed with crush washers and thread sealant, so I'm going to remove those and clean it all back up for install. I've had this air vacuum for ages waiting for the perfect time to use it and this was definitely it. This was way neater, easier, and less disruptive than all of my other options. It's powerful and it only moved the air that I needed to move momentarily. I scraped the threads clean and vacuumed out the galley. Thanks to a battery nap we've now got the holes thread lockered and one crush washer in place on every bore. I used a pair of flat nose pliers holding the squirter by the locating pin end to insert the assembly with the check valve along with the other washer into place and then also to get the check valve, which is simply a glorified banjo fitting, started into the threads. The torque spec for these is 23 to 25 foot pounds. I go straight for the maximum because I've got spare crush washers for these for days. But just because you bought and installed all the correct factory parts and followed directions, it doesn't mean you did the job correctly. You need to always pay close attention to how your oil squirters are lining up. Look at where the oil's going. That's a stupid place to put it right there. Absolutely none of this is staged. It's a product of my combination of parts and it perfectly illustrates why you have to check these if you have oil squirters. They may line up somewhere completely useless. They may even come in contact with the piston itself. This would get smacked into the crankshaft, sheared off, and be found in your oil pan during your next rebuild. You have to clearance these things and make sure that what they're doing is actually useful. Ideally they'd spray at the wrist pins and the piston dome, the center of the piston throughout the stroke. But all four of mine relying on the locating pins are pointed in all different directions. To fix this, you have to bend them. Before you do that, in order to bend them as little as possible, I'm actually going to put a small amount of tension on the oil jets while I, you know, loosen and re-torque all these check valves. This just moves them to the extremes of what the locating pins and the bolts will allow to one side towards where I need them all to go. Next, quite literally, you just bend them. You need to be really careful though. These oil jets are brazed into the fitting that goes around the check valve and you can easily crack and break them there. So I advise you to use some flat, untextured pliers with sort of twisting motion to minimize all the stress doing all the bending further away from where Mitsubishi did all that brazing. Carefully make this more of a gradual bend and check your clearance from the crankshaft and the piston all along the way. Look at it from multiple angles if you can because it's tricky to really kind of tell from just one. And this is much harder to see with the factory crankshaft because the counterweights are so much larger. But this is why I'm showing you this detail on this engine. I couldn't fit the camera in there on the Galant to give it justice. It did have the same issue because it's the same pistons and if you've made other changes to your rotating assembly like aftermarket pistons or you change your stroke or something, then these are always things that you need to scrutinize before you seal it all up. Especially with something as ridiculous as this because it's just made out of soft aluminum and all this extra care about threadlocker and not shearing off pieces of the oil squirters is to protect this fancy baffled oil pan from getting ventilated. This adds more oil capacity. I forgot how much but percentage-wise it's a lot okay fine internet it's six and a quarter quarts capacity. It's a part that's only available for the six bolt though. Moroso does not make a seven bolt pan. This is why I studded my block because you have to and of course all these years on my combination of parts it doesn't fit. Guess I'll have to return it. JK. I did have to file several of the stud holes out in the pan because they weren't exactly true either but in the end after test fitting it several more times it still wouldn't sit flush. All I could do was encourage this interference as much as I could to try to attempt to leave a mark in it somewhere that I could see and it should be easy with aluminum. I could see a few rolled edges around the pickup and to be sure they actually needed work and weren't artifacts from manufacturing I used a paint marker to put a thick bead of paint on the edge and quickly reassemble it to see if any of that transferred. The far edge showed nothing but the short radius bend is missing some right there on the edge. Oh yeah and there it is right there. Found it. So it looks like I just needed a clearance one side a little bit for the oil pickup tube to clear that baffle and I should be good to go. There's absolutely no way to keep the metal shavings out since this thing that I need to grind on is right in the middle separating all the important stuff. So you just have to deal and be really neat and tidy with it once you're finished. Clean it up real good. Might as well clean out the inside of the crank case too just in case. Gravity's your friend here. And now let's flip this thing back over and check my work. Truth be told this oil pan that was $650 in 2012 sells now for $900 or more to your door and is one of the things that originally enticed me into building a six bolt. This was a trap for the bling and it got me good. Real good. All right I'm just gonna put my precious away now and on second thought let's not go to Mordor. It's a silly place. I told you that I had options. This isn't a replacement. It's just a dust cover. You bet that I'm gonna use that Moroso pan though. I've got to make a much bigger mess to get that one ready for its future. So I have to assemble both of these engines all the way up first and seal up every hole before that begins. At least for now I know that it fits. I don't really have very many holes left on these short blocks that need to be filled up. Just a few parts related to the oil system. The drain plug and the dipstick tube. A breather port. Sounds easy but I'm doing electric power steering and I have no need for a power steering pump or bracket. It's a shame because it's beautifully powder coated and all sorted out and also there's all my extra bolts left over. No idea where they go. But now without that bracket my dipstick tube doesn't fit. Normally the dipstick bolts down on top of the power steering bracket. Matt generously spent a half hour with me cutting a random aluminum bushing I found to serve as a dipstick spacer for both engines. I was going to polish these but because you can only see the outer face he was like nah I'm gonna turn them and that saved me a lot of time. Sweet. Thanks Matt. But now with the spacer settled I can seal up the dipstick tube holes in the block. I don't see anything wrong with the 22 year old powder coating on this one. It shows its history but it's still in great shape. But on the Glyptol block I'm installing a brand new one along with a new 2g dipstick. This one's got its bare zinc coating and factory appearance to it which I'll leave alone until it starts looking rough. But I love the way these spacers fit, the way they look, and they solve my problem. These two are all caught up despite only one of them having a water pipe and the studs installed. The seven bolts getting L19s because of the narrower 11 millimeter stud. Six bolts use the exact same gasket but they have the larger 12 millimeter head studs to deal with. But while we have the opportunity let's go ahead and compare these differences. The six bolts have a flat oil pan flange and an oil pickup with a leg on it. The seven bolt has a curved oil pan flange to make room for the crank sensor assembly and a completely different design on the oil pickup that was changed again with the introduction of the Evo. They wanted that support back on there for a reason. That kind of sort of had a leg on it. The seven bolt rod journals are narrower than the six bolt journals by two millimeters. The numbers don't lie. It's hard to measure the mains assembled so right here we've got an extra set of six bolt and seven bolt bearings that I can show you. Journals one, two, four, and five use this style of bearing shell and you can see how the seven bolt main bearing fits right inside the margins of the six bolt. That's a bigger main journal. I'm not going to dig these out but for the thrust main bearings that gap is measuring about three millimeters wider than the seven bolt. This is why you don't mix and match your rotating assembly parts when you do these kinds of generational swaps. The diameters of all of these parts might be identical and the geometry is the same but these widths of the bearings don't line up. To put a six bolt in your 2g you use the timing tensioner arm and the tensioner for the block that you're using and they fit the 2g mount. The motor mounts are all that's different. The 1g mount has one less bolt where it attaches to the block and it bolts to an upper mount arm that extends all the way around the power steering pump bracket and has various other brackets bolted to it. This does not fit a 2g without fabrication and it's why the six bolt in a 2g is a much more popular swap. Never mind that the front and rear roll stopper mounts on a 1g bolt to the block and not the transmission like the 2g's do. That's another obstacle for the ones who wish to do the unpopular swap and not a problem so much for the 2g guys. The 2g block does actually have provisions in the casting for the front mount that remain unused but not for the rear mount. No manner of bolt-on factory brackets will ever solve this dilemma for those of you who want a 2g or 1g but you can practically plug and play the other way around bolting the right parts on and with only minimal use of a cut-off wheel. I had a beast of a time hiding that moroso box for the last decade. Based off of its size and the logo it's a dead giveaway what was inside it because moroso doesn't make anything else that big for a 4g63. Having to buy a new crankshaft and rods to fix my problem was the perfect excuse to try to do the six bolt route because they're the most expensive parts of repairing a short block. The GSX lost its original timing gear to the gallant because of how badly the gallant's gear got damaged from past calamities in its history with its original timing belt failure before any of us ever got to know it. And over time that took its toll on the oil pump sprocket as well but thanks to the GSX's contributions of parts that it didn't need anymore, that's not a problem moving forward either. These were just easy parts to overlook that I had to buy and it slowed this video down a bit, sorry. I'm waiting for another set of Fidenza cam gears. They're made to order now, cost $420 and I hope to see them show up in early June. I have to use these because I'm building twins and these have provisions for the 95 cam angle sensor which I absolutely insist on using and not for the performance reasons that you would imagine. The powder coating will never look as good as it does when it's fresh and in that regard the six bolt's always going to have a big leg up on the old king of bling block. It took me four and a half years to build the original one to the point where it started winning show trophies and that was without ever filming anything or sharing any of it because it was all before YouTube happened but now I've gone above and beyond in my efforts to recreate new examples of how I did it. If it was an easy process or if you could buy this off a shelf ready to go then everyone would do it and if everyone had it, it wouldn't be so special. Adding videos made this take far longer than I ever wanted it to but I love sharing this so I want to thank each and every one of my Patreons who've stuck with me through all these years and helped me to achieve these victories right here. It's you who kept raising my bar. Couldn't have done it without you. Please like, comment, and share your thoughts because all that helps me too. This is happening. It's finally happening. Everyone knows what's coming next for these so stay tuned.