Dernier refuge sauvage pour les éléphants

Deltas, swamps, rivers and large flooded plains form an essential link between the aquatic environment and the terrestrial environment. These large wetlands play a vital ecological role for the planet. In the water, as on the ground, or very high in the canopy, a flower and an exceptional fauna have found refuge. However, living in these flooded worlds is a permanent challenge. The powerful water cycle dictates its law. In Borneo, the Sanctuary of Kinabatangan does not escape this fatality. The periods of fog and drought follow, and impose extreme living conditions on its inhabitants. In this screen of chlorophyll, unique species in the world have found refuge. We are in the heart of the wild sanctuary of Kinabatangan. Nicknamed the gift of the earth, this region houses the last fragments of one of the oldest forests on our planet, born 130 million years ago. Located northeast of the island of Borneo, in the state of Sabah in East Malaysia. This reserve extends over nearly 70,000 hectares, along the river that gave it its name, to the mangrove that borders the Sulu Sea. Kinabatangan. If this name sounds like the bite of the giant crocodile that frequents these banks, in this world where water abounds, it is life that dominates. Over the seasons, the power of the mosses, the strength of the Kinox tides, and the vigour of the river have shaped a great diversity of habitats conducive to the flourishing of a unique fauna. Fed by the tide of the tides, the mangrove is a choice shelter for strange primates. These nasty monkeys can only be found in Borneo. Beyond these coastal swamps, the river is surrounded by narrow reptile meadows. The rarest pygmy elephants find the tall grass they enjoy before regaining the protection of the forest. The ramifications of these immobile giants hide other animals on the verge of extinction, such as orang-utans. But today, these fragile ecosystems are threatened by deforestation. The intensive oil palm crop is slowly ravaging the last wild bastions of Borneo. Along the river, only 27,000 hectares of forest still resist this devastating expansion. We are in October, approaching the Great Mousseau. The moment when formidable predators sink into the Kinabatangan. As comfortable in salt water as in fresh water, marine crocodiles will take advantage of the equinox tides that push the sea into the meanders of the river to climb them. The largest reptiles living in the world will reach their favorite breeding sites. This predator can measure up to 7 meters and weigh nearly a ton. Opportunistic, it devours everything within its reach. Crabs, birds, monkeys, or even buffalos. At a cruising speed of 3 to 5 km per hour, the sturgeon crocodile will take advantage of the opportunity to expand its hunting territory. Upstream of the delta, the forest is littered with strange and peaceful conformations where life thrives. These oxbows, former meanders of the Kinabatangan, have detached themselves from the stream and now form so many small lakes. Along their dormant waters, on a thick and rich soil made of organic matter, trees thrive better. They are more imposing than those anchored on the banks of the river. Particularly well adapted to the variations of the water level, the Malotus muticus will soon see their roots engulfed. Life has settled on all floors of this vertical world. Before having to face the whims of the sky, some risk a quick escape from the earth. An opportunity not to be missed for the varans and other lizards on the lookout. Much higher in the canopy, some mammals have developed amazing abilities to move. They can glide like the incredible flying squirrel. An effective strategy that prevents them from setting foot on the ground when the ground disappears under the water. Perched at more than 30 meters high, the orang-outan can also play the balance player. The one that the Malay have named the man of the forest, is endowed with hands, feet, and immeasurable arms that allow him to move quietly thanks to the maturation of the fruits. At the end of October, when they become more rare, he must be content with young shoots or the abundant foliage that his habitat offers him. In November, the northeastern winds announce the arrival of the great mousseau and its flooding rains. Soon, the waters of the river will invade the entire sanctuary, swallow the roots of the mangrove, and infiltrate each plot of this vast wetland. Until February, the incessant rains will disrupt their habits. In one day, the rainfall can reach 100 millimeters. For the Asian monkey, as for the other species that live here, the activity is considerably reduced. It only took a few days for the river and its floods to overflow. Rainfalls are seven times more important than during the dry season. The monotonous litany of the mousseau is sometimes interrupted by a sudden flash of light. The northeastern winds, charged with the humidity of the sea, weaken. This female crocodile settled in the calm of an isolated arm of the river when the rains appeared. She laid about sixty eggs in a nest she dug on the bank before covering it with foliage. It will remain on the lookout during the entire incubation period, ready to melt on the intruders. Even underwater, the slightest suspicious vibration will trigger an immediate reaction. If everything goes as planned, the water level will be at its highest at the time of the eruption. The little crocodiles will have little way to go to take refuge in the river. The calm has been short-lived. The choice of this location can turn against the tide. The course of the river, which never ceases to inflate, could drown the nest. After more than two months of intense rainfall, the water is still entirely made of the earth, the sea and the forests. Near the coasts, the mangrove receives the waves loaded with lemons carried by the river. These rich nutrients feed the microorganisms present in the basins. According to a perfectly orchestrated tempo, the anableps, surprising walking fish, and crabs come to feed at low tide. A blessing for the white-collar The return of the tide is imminent. It is time for the violinist crab to regain its lodging. In turn, the underwater fauna will be able to enjoy the feast. For hundreds of species, the mangrove is above all a gigantic nursery. The smallest can develop in the shelter of predators in clear water, protected by the entanglement of roots. If life abounds at the foot of the paletubies, it is no less rich at their peak. The Asian monkeys squat the upper floors of the mangrove. They are one of the very rare mammals to have adapted to this somatic environment. With a nose that can measure up to 21 cm, the Asian cyrano is supposed to seduce these females with graceful trumpet-like noses. Its stomach allows it to assimilate food that other primates do not tolerate. In this digestive system that weighs a quarter of its weight, bacteria come to the end of the cellulose and toxins present in the leaves of the paletubies. A real nutcase, these vultures do not hesitate to throw themselves into the void to pass from one tree to the other. The cranes did not end up being right about the precious nest. After about 80 days, the first babies finally make their appearance. After intense efforts to pierce the shells, the little ones will have to quickly gain the river to shelter themselves from birds and predators and find the crustaceans they will feed on. Surviving on the first day of their birth is a feat. Less than 10% of them will reach adulthood to become the most feared of the Kinabatangan. In early February, when the river has reached its highest level, the lands emerged have become rare. Some animals will end up stuck on small islets cut off from everything. Marc in Crenaz is sifting the last trails still practicable of the sanctuary. For 15 years, this veterinarian has been working to protect the orangutans. With Dr. Isabelle Lachman, he has created a program for their safety in collaboration with the residents of the region. We have animals that live in forest islands separated from each other because of agricultural development. The big problem we have in the Kinabatangan is what we call habitat fragmentation. During the rainy season, when the water level rises, some orangutans find themselves completely isolated in these small forest islands that are flooded. Orangutans don't know how to swim, which means that in some cases some animals end up trapped in islands of 2, 3, 4 trees. If the flood is not long, the orangutan can wait. If, on the other hand, the floods last a week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks, these orangutans have very little chance of survival because they can't find anything to eat and they are stuck in their trees. We have seen from time to time some orangutans trying to go down and cross the water. Some manage, some drown. We must not forget that we have crocodiles in the area, so it is also potentially a source of threat. Oil palm trees are plants that are not suitable for flood areas. To minimize the damage of rising water levels, what plantations do is create drains to try to evacuate the excess water. So all these drains converge towards the Kinabatangan, towards the main river. When we have drains that cross a forest, it can create a barrier that is impenetrable for the animals, for the orangutans for example. So if we have a drain that is quite large and the trees can no longer make a natural bridge, the orangutans can't cross the drain. If these connections no longer exist, the orangutans find themselves isolated. The fragmentation of the habitat and the lack of traffic corridors lead to the death of many animals during the great floods. The mosses, however, promote the regeneration of the sanctuary. This is the period when the river and its floods sow in the entire forest the sediments it carries. At the end of February, the alizés that bring the rains slowly suffocate to leave room for a brief period of calm. It will only last a few weeks. Along the calmed streams, the banks reveal new rivers and streams. They form a biological corridor of vegetation. In March, with the rain, the pygmy elephants of Borneo can finally join these new pastures. For them, this season is the season of abundance. For a few weeks, they will be able to gorge themselves on tall roses and herbs that they pluck and ingest more than 150 kilos a day. The smallest elephants on the planet measure a maximum of 2.5 meters tall, while their African cousins can exceed them by more than one meter. Ferocious and sensitive to sunbite, they avoid getting too far away from the forest. In the absence of rainfall throughout the region, the decrease accelerates. A few days for the flooded forests to empty. This mother and her baby are decimal shipwrecked. Trapped on the territory of men by floods, she found no branch to pass over the submerged roads that separated her from her forest. Weak, exhausted, she must find the fruits that will revive her and thus save her baby. To perfect her education, she will have to stay with her mother for an average of 10 years. This essential learning will allow her to distinguish the 300 varieties of plants she will be able to feed on. There were more than 10,000 at the beginning of the 20th century. Today, there are only 800 left. The orangutan population of the Kinamatangan may be living their last moments. Each strata of this thousand leaves that rise to the light houses several hundred species of plants and a myriad of animals. With the flood, the small invertebrates can abandon the upper floors of the forest. They gradually reclaim the soil. But on dry land, even when dry, anything can happen. Here is the innocent one responsible for launching projectiles. At the beginning of the dry season, this orangutan no longer needs to walk several hundred meters a day to feed. The trees are full of ripe fruit. For the largest arboreal mammal in the world, this long period will unfortunately only last a short time. Not far away, the cries of the Wallace eagle It is the season of love. Their nest will soon welcome a unique egg, which makes this species extremely vulnerable. No invertebrates, not the least of which have been around for several days. In the absence of mud to protect their skin from parasites, elephants now have no choice but to take dust baths. In the heart of the forest, water points are rarified. Pachyderms will soon have to leave the forest to find the 100 liters of water they need on a daily basis. In April, the northeastern dry the last water points. Oxbows empty. Animals will gradually concentrate around the river. A situation that does not escape this huge siren. For the tundered vigilance is necessary. Especially since a band of primates also convey the freshness of their lives and are planning to hunt their nests. They are crab-mouthed little over-excited monkeys that swarm in Borneo. These opportunists are a gang of sixty individuals that can take any environment. It is not necessarily the taste of otters. Monkeys have learned to be wary. Contrary In terms of appearance, she has an extremely powerful jaw and sharp teeth. No question for her to give up the field. They had enough trouble digging their burrow. The macaques are praying for worse damage. This tree trunk is a limit to not cross. Well above all these disputes, this female of a certain age is seized by a task that she renews daily. With extreme meticulousness, she prepares for a nidouillet. The macaques, crabby on their side, will enjoy the freshness of the stream until the fall of the night. Perched very high in the canopy, shaken by the sweetness of the breeze that reigns on the peaks, this orang-outang fears no enemy. Day by day, the drought intensifies. An unusual phenomenon for this equatorial zone, it has not fallen the slightest drop in three weeks. The level of the river is drastically decreasing. 300 elephants live here. For them, drinking and refreshing has become a priority. Rarely have they met in such large numbers. The water rehydrates the pachyderms, but it also allows them to drown the parasites that infest their skins. They are all here. Look at that, they are so excited. After two days spent in the forest, we can see how happy they are when they see the water. The weather has been particularly dry these days. Look, there is Ita, Nibi. All the elephants to which I put a necklace are here. It's incredible. Farina Othnan is a PhD student at Cardiff University. At the centre of Danao Girang, she has been studying the behaviour of elephants for four years. It's a bond group. When several families come together to form a large herd, they are united by strong bonds. Water is very important for elephants. It acts as a cooling system by lowering the temperature of their bodies. We know from several scientific studies that females adapt their movements to always be close to water sources. During the dry season, they have to go further to find the water resources they need. But during the rainy season, they are more sedentary because everything is flooded. They like the water, but they never stay there for long. In Kinabatangan, there are about 300 elephants. That is very few. We have to do everything we can to protect them, so that future generations can continue to observe them in the wild. In Sabah, we have increased the level of protection of Borneo elephants. They are now part of the number one programme, which means that they cannot be killed. In the last 30 years, deforestation has changed the ecosystems and climate of the region. Long periods of drought have become more frequent. This is the breeding season for the Kalaupi-Malay. This faithful couple will stay here for three months, until the swallows have reached their autonomy. At the end of May, a small, light-weighted fly comes from the southeast. It will give a new breath to the forest. The Varang-Malay has only one concern. To finish its digestion without being disturbed. This large semi-aquatic lizard is indifferent to humidity. The Naziques, on the other hand, are not afraid to wet their semi-palmed feet to harvest some seeds in the mangrove. The avalanches that sweep upstream, even for a short time, have made all their power to the river. To avoid being trapped in the flood zones, the elephants must regularly cross the river. The elephant does not yet have the experience of its elders. It is only a few weeks old. Its relative lightness is a handicap in the face of the force of the current. But it can count on the solidarity of the females, who do not hesitate to help it. Many elephants die every year, carried by the currents of the Kinabatangan. Regardless of what is played on the ground, a thousand years go by. The bat hunt will continue for a good part of the night for the raptor. Early July, fed by the rains that continue to pour upstream, the river and the rivers continue to swell. In the mangroves, the return of the beautiful weather awakens the ardor of the dominant male. The head a little pinched and the nose protruded, the females clearly display their availability. But it will be difficult for him to please all the suitors of his harem. On this fragmented territory, the ardor ended up getting lost at the door of a palm tree plantation. Over the years, the place given to wildlife, has drastically reduced. Palm oil plantations continue inexorably their expansion and complicate the daily life of animals. For the Malay government, this resource is one of the drivers of economic growth. 11% of the country's wealth is assured by this sector, which feeds more than 500,000 families. For elephants, evil is done. This situation is a real threat to the survival of the species. Farina Houtnan constantly follows the individuals carrying the packages. There is not enough space in these forests during the rainy season because most of the ground is covered with water. So the elephants go to palm oil plantations where the ground is higher. But this can cause conflicts between men and elephants and the outcome is rarely in their favor. In fact, they behave differently when they are in the plantations. They form larger groups. The more individuals there are, the safer they feel. But this changes their activities during the day. They will spend less time feeding themselves and more time monitoring their environment because they don't feel completely safe. And then there can be a problem with the water. It can be very dangerous, very risky for them, especially for the youngest. The water can contain fertilizers for the trees. It can affect the size of the internal organs of the elephants, especially their hearts. It doesn't have much impact in the short term, but in the long term. If they spend too much time in the plantations, they could die because of this poisoning. The farmers see with a bad eye the intrusion of these mastodons who devastate everything in their path. All the means are good to make them go wild. An additional stress for these disoriented animals, forced to look for a way out to reach preserved wild areas. As for the orang-utans, the genetic heritage of these populations of elephants, more and more geographically isolated, is impoverished as quickly as their environment. The farmers must make do with the unexpected presence of these pachyderms. Will they be able to stand it for a long time? The animals, lost in what was their kingdom, will only find their forests thanks to future outcrops. Thus, at the pace of the seasons, the water cycle in Kinabatangan continues. During the flood, the waters of the river, full of nutrients, will feed the mangroves that border the sea of Osulu again. By the biological wealth they shelter and the natural functions they fulfill, large wetlands constitute an exceptional natural heritage. But these wild sanctuaries are fragile. Deforestation and habitat fragmentation are now the main cause of extinction of species in the world.