http://jayscustomcreations.com/2013/03/14/full-size-loft-bed/ How to build a loft bed. This is for a full size bed. Everything you need to build it as well as the SketchUp file for you to modify as needed is here. The footboard side is a full ladder. All slats are 2×4s with a small rabbit to fit in a sub rail. The headboard side has 3 shelves below with a plywood back to add lateral support. The frame is mounted at 5' off the ground. I still have to sand everything and round some corners but the build is essentially done. I used a lot of scraps for this but total cost should be around $120 depending on location. A shopping list, all diagrams, the SketchUp file, and 6 videos covering the build.
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what I have here is my homemade tending
jig it's nothing special uh there's not
really much adjustment to it typically I
leave 3/4 of an inch from this face to
the uh blade so I really didn't do
anything from the last time I set it up
uh it's just a piece of particle board
with a runner on the bottom and a 45°
triangle uh with a uh handle back here
for me to safely hold or push it through
like I said it's nothing special but get
the job done I have to cut out uh 3/4 of
an inch down inch and a half over and
then cut back down here uh I'm going to
cut this out with the tenoning jig as
opposed to just ding this out because I
want to reuse this piece of wood right
here I'm going to be using this cut off
as a spacer in between the slats when I
put them in so uh from here I'm just
going to run all 11 slats both sides
it's going to be 22 Cuts so we're going
to be real close to my
ceiling but uh it'll still work and I'll
get the job done so I'm going to go
ahead and get this
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done
and this is how they're going to fit on
the rail you can see that there is a
rabbit that they're just going to sit in
the rail uh the 2x4 slat will offer a
lot more strength than say a one by or a
uh a one by or a 44 slat so this will
work great and like I said these little
cut off spacing that we're going to
we've saved we're actually going to put
them in between the slat spacer slat as
we start to to assemble these but this
is the first one that I cut it's just a
test piece it works out great um that's
one down 10 to
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go
got all the slats cut and I'm ready to
put them in uh now on all my beds I like
to work from the center out that way at
the end whatever space is left over it's
symmetrical down
there and up there so what I've done
is I measured and found the center line
measured over uh which should be uh 38
1/2 in if you're following along with
these plans and it should be 1 and 3/4 1
and 3/4 which equals width of 3 and 1/2
which is a
2x4 and I've done this on both sides so
now I can just slide my Tu for slat in
place like so and I've already
pre-drilled for two inch and a qu dri
wall screws and that's what I'm going to
use to secure the middle one only the
rest of these are going to be floating
but as soon as I get this done we can
start uh gluing and nailing in the
spacer box all right if everything if
everything went well and according to
plan you should have uh about 20 or so
of these little cut offs that we Ed from
the toning jig um it's going to take
five per side five per side per side of
this so it's going to take 20 of these
if that made any sense uh and what I'm
doing is I'm just going to
take a little bit of
glue nothing fancy set it in place and
just use a couple
Brads to hold it in place while the glue
sits and I'm going to do that on both
sides one spacer
block
two brad nails and then uh and you can
put the slat in
place and repeat the process I'm going
to work my way this
way
the frame with all the slats completed
um the cut offs obviously are spacers
and everything is all nice and spaced
out evenly now these are kind of snug
fit so it's good to label each piece uh
not necessarily necessary
uh as they are all supposed to be 3 and
1/2 in wide standard 2x4 but you know
just uh just during assembly I know
these fit so why not go ahead and mark
them all where you'll never see
them that way when they go to
install you know that hey these did fit
right here so I labeled all these where
you'll never see them all the way down
and for the most part that's done for
the frame uh this is going to go
together pretty quick I'm going to build
this little
um railing that goes off right here on
the side to stop someone from falling
off I'm going to do that last just
because I'm going to be using scraps to
build that so I want to make sure I use
the correct scraps to cut it uh once the
rest of the project is done got the
frame stood up uh back into the hallway
so I can get more clearance out here and
I'm going to start cutting for the
footboard uh I've got to make them 7 7
1/2 in tall so I'm going to cut it out
of a 2x10 and then rip it down into a
2x6 and a
2x4 and pocket hole screw the 2x4 into
the 2x6 so this one board right here is
going to become an l-shape pretty soon
with both leg pieces cut to 77 1/2 I can
prepare them for uh for ripping them
down and pocket hole screwing them
together I've got to mark this one out
but I've already took the time to mark
this one to show
you that I'm going to rip it down right
here at 3 and A2 and then I've marked at
the bottom where I want two pocket hole
screws and then using my plan I'm going
to go up 12 in where the first uh ladder
ladder wrong is 24 36 then
48 and the purpose of that is that way
we're going to rip it this way and then
flip this board on top and then screw it
into this one and right here at the 12
Mark if I once it's ripped and I stand
it in place screw it down then I'm going
to have two pocket hole screws right
there and those are going to be hidden
by the Ladder rung going this way
so we're we're attaching the L shape in
a spot that's going to be covered up by
the Ladder rung so these pocket hole
screws will never be shown uh I went
ahead and marked this one out all the
way down and the purpose being to mark
it first is that way I can cut it drill
the holes real quick screw it together
uh once you cut down a large piece of
lumber like this it's going to want to
move uh the more time you have to let it
move the more it's going to move so my
objective is to cut it drill It screw it
and secure it as fast as I can uh not as
fast as I can but you know in a quick
timely manner to uh to minimize wood
movement uh I'm going to glue it and pop
pocket hole screw it with two 2 and 1/2
in pocket hole screws at every Junction
as shown uh we're also we're also going
at 60 in uh that's where the bottom of
the bed frame is going to be and then 77
and A2 is their total height down 3 and
1/2 in so we're going to have 1 2 3 4 5
6 seven on bottom locations of two
pocket hole screws each plus GL gluing
the entire joint so this is going to be
a nice sturdy L shape also when marking
uh this L is going to be on the left
hand side this L is going to be on the
right hand side so they need to be
opposite of one another I've started
from the right hand side and marked that
way this being zero now I need to take
the next piece and start from the left
hand side and marking on the same uh
same side but moving left to right and
that side being zero so that way I don't
have two pieces that are identical I
need I need them to be exact
opposites
