DIY Mini 3 World Zen Garden Terrarium

Yo what's going on SerpaSquad, Tanner here and I'm back with another terrarium build. It's been a while since I've made one, too long if you ask me. Like always, these projects tend to begin with a nice container. My sister gifted me this one many years ago. It's intended to be used as a candle holder, but I personally think it would look better as a terrarium. I explored various ideas and came to the conclusion that I should include a small zen garden in the base. It could work as is, but when I think zen garden, a metal frame isn't the first thing that comes to mind. I imagine a classy, somewhat rustic wooden box or frame. That should be a simple edit. Let's take it to the workshop. This is one of those times when I'm thankful I keep all of my scraps. You just never know when they'll come in handy. I found these pieces that happen to be the same height as the container's base. They're kind of rough, but that's alright. To make it look official, I'll cut these at a 45 degree angle. I marked for the first cut, clamped it to my bench, and sawed away. After that, I marked for the subsequent angles and repeated the process. I made the frame slightly larger than the perimeter of the tray, so it's not a struggle to install. Let's keep it simple and lock the pieces together with hot glue. I put a dab in each corner and pressed them together. I held them in place for a few seconds while the glue seized up. I made sure everything was flush and consistent as I added the other pieces. I also double checked to ensure the fit was good. I felt like the inclusion of dowel rods could make it look even better. I'll place them along the inside edges of the piece, like so. I followed the angle of the other boards to account for the 45. For this cut, I'll use a chisel. I line the flat side with a mark. Then I lightly hit the top with a hammer until the piece is split. I'll use hot glue once more to secure them to the frame. I carefully ran a thin line along the inside edges. I went back and pressed the dowels into the glue. The addition of the wooden frame really brought new life to the piece. I really like the natural patina of the first boards and would have left it as is. Since the dowels don't match though, I'll stain everything. I went with a gunstock color which has a reddish orange hue about it. This will create a complementary color scheme of sorts with the green plants. You'll see what I mean shortly. After applying the stain with an old cloth, I left it to dry. I decided to apply a layer of polyurethane to preserve the piece from the elements. I left that to dry as well. I'll make a few tools in the meantime. Mini Zen Garden tools are widely available online and they're pretty cheap. You should know by now though that I'd prefer to make my own. I have a lot of materials on hand that were perfect for the job. I'll use a popsicle stick, paint stirring stick, toothpicks, and dowel rods. I also have precision super glue to secure the pieces together. I'll start with the most basic tool of all, a single dowel rod. The next one starts with a popsicle stick. I cut out a small section that's about an inch wide. I marked for the center where I'll attach the handle. I applied glue to a dowel and applied pressure until secure. It's a simple tool that can be used to add intricate details. For the next one, I first cut the tip off of a stirring stick. I placed a roller along the edge and marked for little triangular teeth. I carefully cut out these sections. Like before, I marked for a handle. I glued a dowel to it accordingly. This one is basically a little plow with little teeth. The next one is a little more challenging to pull off. I started by drilling a small hole through a thick dowel. I used this as a guide for a larger bit which is the same diameter as the thin dowels. I chopped off the excess. Then, I applied a generous amount of hot glue to the opening. I inserted the dowel in a spinning motion to distribute the glue. While it set up, I cut the tips off of a few toothpicks. I went and made a few markings along the thicker dowel. I partially drilled into these with a bit that's the same diameter as the toothpicks. I applied glue to the ends of the picks and put them in place. I removed the excess wood and glue near the base. I cut down the picks to a consistent length. I shaped down the dowel as well. Here's a neat little rake. The next tool is similar and started the same way, but with a square dowel instead. I marked along the side and drilled holes like before. I drilled on the opposite side for a handle. I shaped up the piece to make it less bulky. Then, I installed cut toothpicks like before. I did the same with the dowel on the opposite side. I went back and cut the toothpicks. Although similar, this one will be able to create finer lines in the sand. The last tool will start with this fan brush. It's low profile and wide reach will be perfect for resetting the sand. I pulled the tip off the original handle. I also removed some of the metal base. I filled it with hot glue and inserted a dowel. Now, I have a nice fan brush with the handle that matches the other tools. For additional detail and for a more official look, I'll include cotton rope. I put a dab of hot glue at the top of the handles. I secured the rope and wrapped it around the dowel. I kept this consistent throughout for a uniform look. Once I got the desired length, I applied another dab of glue and secured the rope. I cut off the excess. Here's the finished line. I think they turned out really great, but there's more work to do. As you can see, the dowels are way too long. I'll use a block of foam to calculate the lengths and placement on the frame from before. I inserted the dowels into the foam accordingly. Then, I pushed them through to get the look I wanted. I thought it would be neat if they were staggered in a stair-like formation. I marked near the base to indicate where to make the cuts. I cut them down accordingly. As I said, these tools will reside on the side of the frame. To make sure the depth of each is consistent, I masked off a section of a small bit. I used this to start the holes. I went back with a larger bit that's slightly wider than the tool handles. I double-checked to ensure everything fit. They look good, but slightly out of place being a different color. So, I stained them like before. There's something else I need to address. If you look here, you'll see that the tray has gaps on the corners. As such, it won't hold the sand well out shortly. I simply applied hot glue to remedy the situation. As I worked through the build, I felt like it called for a dedicated light source. I went with this small dull gooseneck light. It's the perfect size. It has a clip on the back, but it won't work for this. Instead, I drilled a hole through it for a screw. I measured for the center on the frame. Then, I secured the light in this location with a pan head screw. The time has finally come to make the terrarium. Like always, I'll begin with the false bottom. This layer will act as a reservoir for excess water. Since the compartments are so small, a sand false bottom is probably the most appropriate solution. I poured a thin layer of sand in each. This is usually when I'd add a dedicated charcoal layer. The substrate blend I'm using has it mixed in though, so I can get away without one. This is composed of various elements that, when combined, create an ideal mix. It will hold up well in a humid environment without compacting, which will promote a healthy environment within the terrarium. I added it by hand. I know, I could have been cleaner about it, but there's a method to my madness. I did this to ensure the proper ratio of components. Normally, I wouldn't do that, but again, since these are small, taking the time to do so will help in the long run. I'll even it out with a fan brush. As I said, these are great because of the low profile and wide reach. Check this out. It can fit through the small opening while retaining its usability. I can't stress enough how useful these are for this kind of work. While on tools, here are the other items I'll use for the build. The first section will primarily be planted with java moss. Chopping it up before use promotes denser growth faster. Once the moss was good to go, I used it to conceal all of the substrate. A pair of bent tweezers were perfect for the job. I was able to place and flatten the patches with a single tool. I have a nice hardscape selection for this one, including tiny segments of dragon root and limestone gravel. This combination should make for a dynamic scape. I got a feel for the materials prior to going in. I had to trim some of the roots for a better fit. Getting them in and properly situated is easier said than done. The first piece of wood by far was the worst of it. I had to prop it up with multiple tools and lock it in with stone simultaneously. The dilemma of course was that I can only do so much with a tiny entrance. Eventually it was good to go and I added smaller stones for texture. I continued placing the driftwood from there. I used the characteristics of the first piece to dictate my decisions. I added a few stones as well. I topped it off with more moss for good measure. I also later decided to include ficus pumila crucifolia. It seemed like the right thing to do. Number two began with some badge moss. I placed it on either side to create a path in the middle. I used sand and fine gravel to fill it in. I poured the sand in first. Then I dispersed it with a brush. I'll scape it up with straight branches of various types and pea pebbles. For this scape, I decided to create clusters of twigs in the moss. The idea is to loosely mimic the look of a forest. I also felt the design would benefit from salaginella. I think it complements the forest vibe quite well. The final one will be a mossy scape. I have sphagnum moss, hypnum moss, and thread moss. I'll utilize black lophrock for the hard scape. I filled the background in with sphagnum moss. It works great as a background plant if you choose everything else accordingly. Then I built up a few piles of rocks throughout the container. I used the hypnum moss to fill in the rest of the midground. I finished it off with thread moss in the front. No terrarium on this channel is complete without springtails. In short, these will help keep the terrarium clean. I poured them into the mossy scape. From there, they can branch out and explore their new home. The only thing left to do now is put the pieces together. At this point, I could finally add the sand. I also put hot glue on the base to secure the terrarium. It also requires a little hydration. I added a few drops of dechlorinated water to each. I sealed it up with a few clear marbles. There you have it, the zen garden terrarium. I think it's a really neat concept that turned out well. My vision was to create three distinct environments or worlds atop a mini zen garden. I like them all, but I think the one in the center may be my favorite. Which one do you like the best? My only real complaint is that I wish the sand tray was larger. It feels somewhat restricted due to the size. So, if I were to do this again, I would definitely go a little bigger. Perhaps I'll just modify the tray later on. That's for another time though. I want to know, what do you think of the finished piece? Let me know in the comments and leave the video with a thumbs up if you stayed this long. It would mean a lot and helps me continue making stuff like this. Until next time, SerpaSquad, take care and peace!