Jointing small stock with the table saw - 051

after all these uh Trash to Treasure videos I have accumulated a lot of scrap Hardwoods uh a lot of small stuff some a little bit bigger than others but for the most part there's anything in this pile uh wasn't good enough for a cutting board so everything's got a slight bow to it a slight twist to it uh can't really work with some of this stuff because it's not Square so what I'm going to do is I'm going to make make a taper jig tapering jig slash small pieces uh jointing jig so I've got my flattest piece of 3/4 in plywood uh I've got a piece of white oak with some relatively straight grain that I've already milled down to the to the correct size for my miter slots and first thing I'm going to do is just cut this piece of scrap off at the length of this uh piece of Oak and then get it [Music] attached sometime between uh yesterday and today my shop ate my good safety glasses so I got the good old science class glasses on but anyway um I've got my panel cut to the length of my uh piece of Oak and I measure it over just a little bit further than uh where it needs to be for the runner and that is so I can cut this off at uh have a cut off that zero clearance uh on the when it's on this side of the saw blade it'll be zero clearance and when it's on this side of the saw blade I'm going to leave this until I'm ready to make an angled cut which typically I make most of my angles at at 30° so this side's probably going to be a 30° side and this side's probably still going to be the 90° side um I'm going to rip down my piece of Oak once I find it I where I put it right here I'm going to rip down my piece of Oak uh to about a/4 inch thickness and uh that'll give me some more stock I can set aside for future Runners and um I can use the quarter inch for this Runner right here [Music] now that I've got my Runner cut to the appropriate size uh here's my measured uh my alignment Mark I should say uh and it's on the bad side of this plywood so I'm just going to secure it with some uh tight Bond 3 and some 23 gauge pin nailers the glue is what's going to hold it the pin nailers will keep it steady in place while the glue sets up so while I'm waiting around for the glue to dry uh I'm going I'm going to apply some paste wax to the bottom of the sled into the sides of the runners um some people varnish the bottom of theirs uh you know paste wax for me is just good enough this will do the trick especially after it sets up and dries all right there's no need to wax the bottom side of the runner uh it's not going to make contact with my saw I've got like a t TR style miter slot so uh I've only got of the 38 in depth I've only got you know a little bit more than the half of that so uh of of actual contact with the side so that's going to be plenty enough for for my purpose having had enough time for the glue to cure slides nice and smooth along the miter slot I'm just going to go ahead and cut it flush with an example piece in place just sitting up here I can start to Mark where approximately where I want to have uh some of these pieces uh some of the hold Downs uh I think just three will do it and and I want to stay relatively close to the miter slots so yeah just something like that will work obviously I'm not going to try and work with anything like this it's just a good example but I'm going to drill these all the way through with the size of my Carriage bolt which is which I'm using a 5/16 uh by 18 Carriage bolt just having the piece clamped to the table saw Wing will do the trick just fine I'm using a Brad Point 516 a bit one of the reasons I'm not too concerned about chip out especially on the bottom is cuz on the bottom side I'm going to come back with a uh forcer bit to to drill a recess for this to sit inside now to drill my forer bit holes which will allow recess for the head of the carriage bolt I've got a guide just drilled out of some scrap Pine I don't really have that much depth on my small uh drill press so I'm going to do this by hand uh I've already done one and it worked out pretty well so all I'm doing is is just getting the the hole started with the guide once I have enough of the hole started for the bit to rest into I'll continue to make the cut until I have enough uh enough of a counter board for the head of the carriage Bolt taken some more scrap and I've ripped down or cut down three pieces that are roughly the same width as the sled itself I've already drilled out a hole that's the same diameter as these uh carriage bolts but I've angled the the bit back and forth in the drill that way once it's in place I can kind of you know tilted as needed uh I've marked out my other two pieces where they need to be so I'm going to go ahead and drill these out the easiest way to secure the uh hold down arms in place would obviously be a wing nut uh I don't have any Wing nuts and I'm trying to use up scraps in the shops and I do have some of these uh just regular hex nuts and my distance from these parallel faces is a/2 in so what I'm going to do is use a/ in for forer bit to just drill a hole right in the middle and uh once I have that hole this the bottom of the forer bit's got a point so it it's going to have a center location I'm going to use that Center hole or Center Point to drill all the way through with my 5/16 bit but right now I'm going to build uh drill out the cter board for these to sit [Music] in with the counter drilled I've got a/2 in hole that is stepped down about about uh 38 of an inch and then I've got the 5/16 hole that goes all the way through I don't know if this camera is going to show up but they are concentric with one another and I find the easiest way to mount one of these screws is with Force let's see kind of hard to do this looking through the camera we just pop it in there it'll wedge itself in place this is hardwood so that will last a long time and uh instead of making a nice fancy star knob I find when I have a star knob I only use two parts of it to twist it that's just the way I do it so no sense in using a star knob you can turn it just as well with this so after that this is what I'm left with I've got three adjustable arms hold Downs whatever you want to call them uh some real fancy schmancy star knobs just blocks with some nuts in them you know nothing fancy here there's a washer in between each one um got a old piece of scrap right here I'm just going to test out and I've got some scrap spacer blocks that I'll put over here on the opposite side of the arm just to help uh help balance things out because if it's if it's angled too much then this isn't going to allow it to tighten down all the way so oh wow just with one it's pretty darn snug and I'm going to add where I can just a little support here and there like I said the main reason I did this is to uh allow me to use up some of the scrap that isn't so perfect perfect and uh you know this doubles as a tapering jig I can use it to taper objects as well now remember I made my arms as wide as the board is so when I put the the whole sled in this [Applause] side I put it in this side and I cut my uh my zero clearance these are going to overhang a little bit so I may have to trim them up a little bit but they will be used on this side as well so it's not going anywhere so let's make a test [Music] cut face is nice and square nice and smooth or flat I should say now let's see if I can take this and this side's flat so let's put it down like so there we go I've just tightened this one up on top of a spacer block that way I can just use these two and not worry about this one getting caught in the blade all right I've got the just flattened side down on the bottom now I'm going to Joint this one Edge I really shouldn't have made that cut because this was going to be in the way uh there's enough pressure holding it down that way this wouldn't move but that could have easily just caused chaos so really shouldn't have done that but I need to trim these down a little bit all right so I've got this bottom piece this bottom plane is perfectly flat and this plane is 90° to it so now I can rotate it like so and have these two faces on the table saw against the fence and I can square off the remainder sides and that will leave me with a jointed piece of small stock all right so I just took my two jointed edges uh with my jig and I ran it through the table Sal against the fence to Joint my third side and I rotated at 90 and jointed my fourth side so now I got a piece of stock a small piece of stock hardwood that is square four sides something I would not have been able to do without this jig uh it's ugly but it gets the job done and didn't cost me a dime I already had these three carriage bolts I already had these three nuts and obviously I had all this scrap um you know essentially it's just a tapering jig but the main purpose like I said was was so I could joint these uh smaller pieces that I have a lot of so I can start using them uh you know 0 invested real real easy to do it's ugly but it's functional and uh get the job done so thanks for watching and if you like what you see hit the like button and be sure to subscribe thanks all right so i' I've got this project done and I've I've been tinkering tinkering around with it a little bit um off camera and you know what that is that's actually just a little bit overkill for what I'm trying to do with these 80 bitty pieces so I figured why not I'm already at it so let's build a small one this one looks a little bit better but it does the exact same thing got some Walnut some smaller Walnut strips in these and of course the board goes under like so just the same way and now I've got something who now I've got something really small for the smaller pieces anyway thanks for watching