Alright, so with the stupidness on the planer already taken care of, this is the cutting board basically.
It's got some depressions on the side. I don't know if you can see them.
Some depressions from where the clamps were. Like I said, I didn't care so I'm just going to trim it up.
So what I'm doing is I use the scale on my fence. I use the left side just lining stuff up as a measurement.
I just line this up and I'm at 11 and a quarter inches.
So I'm going to go a 16th less than 11.
16th less so I'm at 11 and 1 16th inch.
And I'm going to run it through to face one edge.
Then I will flip it around and 1 16th less and flip it again.
I've got a circular saw blade in my table saw for two reasons.
One, it's smaller diameter so it's less pressure on the motor.
I'm not making it that thick of a cut.
This only allows me two inches of depth for my cut.
And secondly, which is actually the most important I've found in my shop, I don't have dust collection.
So this blade is only, I think it was 62 thousandths of an inch thick as opposed to 102.
So it's 40 thousandths of an inch less.
That's that less material that I'm creating sawdust with.
I'm not caring so much about adding 40 thousandths of an inch to this side and this side.
But that's that much less sawdust I'm kicking up in my shop.
So I'm going to go ahead and make these cuts with this.
I've got to plug this saw back in. I had it unplugged.
And then I will use my miter gauge to cut these at a rough 90 degrees. It doesn't have to be perfect.
And then with the fresh cut side against the fence, I'll reduce by another 16th of an inch.
Alright, that blade, using a circular saw blade, it's a lot quieter too I've noticed.
Which is always, always beneficial to me.
Grab my little miter gauge.
And this is one of them things, six one way, half a dozen the other.
I always like to run my miter gauge backwards.
I don't know, to me it feels more safe.
I don't want to have the piece started way out here and not have much support.
So I like to have all my support right when I start to cut.
Like I said, this doesn't have to be perfectly 90 degrees.
It's just a cutting board and it's just a salvage. So I'm going to try and maximize my length here.
Alright, so now I've got a rough rectangle with one decent side and one not so decent side.
So as you can see, and like I've said, I've got a bad side on this cutting board.
And what you can do, is if you do have a bad side,
if I didn't use these pieces of wood, then I didn't have enough material to make a cutting board.
So, scrap the whole idea.
Instead, I'm using them and I'm forcing it to go on the bottom side.
That way I've got my good side on top.
And force this side to be used.
To do so, you can do a couple things.
You can cut in some handles on your end grain.
But what I like to do, is I like to set my blade at 30 degrees.
I've switched over to the original insert so I can tell my blade.
And I've measured the piece and I've subtracted 5 eighths of an inch.
That is totally dependent on what you choose, but I did so.
So that my blade, it's a very thin blade, I don't know if you can see it.
But my blade will cut 30 degrees from roughly here down.
So basically you're creating a handle.
Forcing this side to be the top side.
Only one side of this cutting board will be used, big deal.
So I'm just going to cut my 30 degree chamfer.
And to get the chamfer to match up on all sides.
First I'll run it through this way.
Rotate it 180 degrees and run it through again.
So I'm cutting both end grain first.
And then I will measure my width of the board.
And subtract the same 5 eighths.
And use that measurement to cut it again.
So basically I'm going to get a matching 30 degree chamfer on all the bottom sides.
Now I will measure the width which I am dead on at 11.
And I'm going to compensate a 16th of an inch because of that blade.
So I'll go to 11 minus a 16th for that blade.
And that should be right where I'm at.
Minus 5 eighths.
So it should be right there.
And you can line up.
If you look parallel right down the edge of the blade.
Your 30 degree chamfer and then the shoulder piece of the end grain.
That point right there should line up perfect with the blade.
If you are accurate.
What I'm going to do.
I always like to back off a little bit so I can sneak up on it.
I'm going to push it in there just a little bit.
Pull it out and see how close I am.
I'm going to make a small adjustment.
That looks good.
And with that.
Let's see.
I've got a perfect chamfer on all sides.
Now I just have to clean it up with some sandpaper.
