Realm of Tor'ment 9A/V17 FIRST ASCENT

Trying to burn a nightmares project throughout the tour. Evening sesh in the hopes it might be okay. Sun was out all day, it was hot so conditions aren't the best but we're gonna try. How do you usually warm up on this? I just fingerboard a lot and then try each of the moves. Easiest to hardest normally. Letting do stuff like that where I just pull on but don't try the move but just feel the holds and then get into it. Okay so this is the line. It starts left hand. I had to start on this hold because it's just this amazing almost like limestone tufa pinch. It's like this perfect thumb groove which is honestly quite a good hold. And then the right hand starts. It's not quite as cool a hold, it's like a split grip. You get three finger crimp and then like an index slot. From these positions the first move you just fall basically into this really good undercut side pull. This is like the first real move where you do a huge dead point to this slot. From this hold you bring a high foot and you just basically lock off on your arm and you come to this intermediate block. And then from here you go again into the first crux hold which has a very important thumb up here. And this slot itself is kind of deep and incut but again it's like hard to fit your fingers into for a start. And then first crux move you bring a high right foot to this edge. Left foot comes out to like a little clamp and you do the sort of dead point into the undercut and you slap into the undercut. The undercut's like I don't know half pad, third pad. It is incut at least but it's very small and you can't pinch it or anything like this. You just have to go straight into the full crimp and it's like a pure power hold. It's crazy. So this is the crux move here where you come out to the right hand undercut and then you walk your feet off to the right. Get a sort of vague drop knee and then crux move. Big dead point into this flat I want to say four finger edge but it's very squeezed and it falls off on the top and bottom. So it's like two good fingers and then basically you hit it with like a third somewhere. Ideally you want the four but the four when you hit it especially like actually on the move it's never as good as you want. Whereas when you just pull on to it actually like for trying the last move isn't so bad which is cool. That was so close. That was so good. How was that fall though? Sorry? How was that fall? The fall was perfect. I'm like wedged between the pads like in a water bed. Ah I tried really hard there. Yeah it was very like I don't know like 2% or 5% or something away. Yeah yeah yeah. That's close. It looked like you just fired out. Sorry? It looked like you just fired out. I hit the hold and then ripped it. Yeah. But probably a mix between like messing the move up not being strong enough and also a bit of the conditions I think. Come on. That was so close. So the name of this boulder I always was calling it the burn and nightmares project because I most seriously started trying it after the trip I came back from doing Burden of Dreams and basically every time I got close to this boulder I would like work out a sequence and then be like oh I think I can do that move and then I just break the hold off or the foot off and it like consistently happened time after time. So it just kind of seemed fitting to call it the Burden of Nightmares project because it's such a nightmare to try. I think it's now in a shape where that's not the case and everything that I used is pretty solid. So I'm yeah I'm not 100% set on the name. Maybe I'll put something else but that's where that project name came from anyway.