Finishing Up Repairs On Bally's Captain Fantastic EM Pinball Machine - The Alternator Relay

Ladies and gentlemen, this is Joe's Classic Video Games back with another cool pinball repair video for you this evening. We have been working on this Bally Elton John Captain Fantastic and the Brown Dirt Cowboy pinball machine for just a little while now, and the thing is up and running, but we need to do some more preventative maintenance on it, and we need to dial in the play field a little bit in my opinion, and then it'll be ready to go back to the customer. So in the first video we kind of just showed it off, tried to figure out why it wouldn't start, figured that out. It was some coin door stuff and some basically something, some things regarding that. In the second video we worked through the bottom of the cabinet and a little bit in the back box, and we're able to play the thing, and then now we're going to try to finish it up in this video. So the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to start working on the score reels. There's one that doesn't reset all the way. Give you a good example here. All right, so see how the ball, well the ball kicked down, but that one didn't reset to zero. Why would that be? It was very simple, so I'll show you that. So we're going to work through all of those and get it where it reliably gets back to zero all the time, but more importantly that it will start every time. So it started this time, but whenever you have issues with it not going all the way back to zero, you've obviously got some problems with those reels, and all it would take is one of them to get stuck, and the game will never start all the way. So I'm going to show you how we work through those, and we'll go from there. Okay, so I've showed these a million times on other videos, but this is the one that won't reset back to zero, and the reason is always, or it's usually the same. So when the thing starts up and it's doing the reset, these reset relays here are pulling in, and you can see that there are eight switches on each one. Number two score reset, number one score reset, and so those just pull in. The reset relay in the bottom of the cabinet just starts pulling those in, and so as the score motor turns, there's a switch on the score motor that hits like five times, and so it's pulsing these five times. And if you watch them reset, you'll notice that they'll stop after five numbers, and then whenever they get back to zero, they stop permanently. So the way they've designed it actually makes a lot of sense. Once you understand how they designed it, you can tell what must be the problem. So if you're resetting the game and the score reel will not turn, one of them's stuck, well there's only a few things that it can be. If the other ones are turning, well then you know the power is getting up to the reset relays. So it could be that one of these switches on the reset relay, when it pulls in, isn't connecting. So like that switch there, if it doesn't connect when the reset relay pulls in, if it doesn't make good contact, it could be that it doesn't have the juice to pull the coil in and make whatever reel that's connected to reset. You can see there's eight there and eight there, and there's eight there and eight there. But the way that it stops at zero is there is a switch that opens when the reel gets to zero, and so they just run the power through the reset relays through that switch, and then when this when it gets to zero and that switch opens because of this little cam here, when that switch opens at zero, the reset relay keeps on, the score reset relay keeps on chattering and it's still pulsing it five times, but it's stopping at that switch that's open, and it just stays on zero while the other ones get back to where they're supposed to go. So if it will not move at the beginning of the game, but it works while you're playing the game, it's either going to be a switch on the reset relay isn't connecting, or the switch that opens at zero isn't closed when it's not on zero. So you can see that this thing is on seven right now, and this switch on the very top is open. So that switch is just misadjusted. So if I had that closed, this would turn around to zero and then open that switch, and that's how it should be. So I'll adjust that and clean it up a little bit and show you how it's supposed to look whenever it's working properly. Okay, so I've showed, like I said, I've showed this a bunch, but I'll show you again. So it's on one right now, and the switches, the top two are closed and the bottom one is open. So the top one is in line with the score reset relay. So what is the middle one for? The middle one actually holds the main reset relay on. So the reset relay will just stay on and keep doing its thing as long as one of these 16 switches is closed. So when they all get back to zero, then none of them can hold the reset relay on, not the score reset relay. The score reset relay will just keep going as long as the main reset relay is on. So you need one switch to stop this coil from advancing, because they all get there at different times. So when this one gets to zero, it will stop and both of those switches will be open. But since one of the other ones isn't to zero yet, that middle switch on the one that's not to zero is still holding the reset relay on. So once it finally gets to the zero, now none of them have a switch on and it will drop the reset relay out, as long as the other things happen that it needs to happen, like the bonus unit resetting and things like that. Okay, so you can't do it with just one switch, because you need one that can stop this independently, and then you need one that can stop the reset relay. And believe me, if they could do it with one switch, they would have. They love to, you know, simplify things and just make it as easy as possible, which is kind of the beauty of the whole thing. How can you make it work with the least amount of switches and the least amount of equipment and blah blah blah. So we're at one, we're at two, we're at three, we're at four, we're at five. Notice how everything is exactly the same. It's because it doesn't matter what number you're at. If you're at, if it says four, it says six, it doesn't matter. There's only two numbers that matter, right? And one of those is nine. So at nine, it closes this bottom switch. You saw this little cam close the bottom switch. And the way that it does all this is there is a cam that rides in a little track on the back of the plastic reel. I don't think I can show it to you without taking it all the way apart. I should have showed it earlier. But that little plastic cam there has moved down and notice we don't even have it touching the top two switches. It's just touching that bottom one. It's leaned down and it's closed it because it's at nine. Now the reason it does that isn't, doesn't really have anything to do with nine. It has to do with the next time that it gets a point. So this is the hundred reel or it's actually the thousands reel. So whenever it gets another thousand, it's going to turn from nine to zero. So you lost, you lost points. You actually went backwards. So that switch closing at nine is setting it up so that whenever it gets that next kick where it's going to roll over to zero, since that switch is closed, it's going to run through there and run over to this one and move this one up one. So it's going to go from zero to one. So that's how you make a zero nine turn into a one zero. So it all makes sense, right? So there's nine and then we get to zero because let's say it's resetting at the beginning of the game. Bam. So it's opened the top switch so this coil can no longer pull in if the power is getting to it through the score reset relays. If the power is getting through it to, from, through the point relays, it can still pull in because it just goes straight to the coil. It doesn't run through that switch first. It's, it's all kind of confusing, but once you catch it, you go, Oh, and it makes, it makes sense. And then you can easily tell what's wrong with your score reels from then on. And they're, they're very, it's a similar design in the Bally's, the Williams, the Gottlieb, the Playmatic, the Jenko, all that stuff, right? Is it Jenko? I don't get many of it. So it's all a similar design. So we have got it now where it is closing when it's not on one and it's, I mean, when it's not on zero and it's opening when it is on zero. So that should make it where it resets. So what I do when I clean through all of these is I leave it set on one. And the reason I do that is so that whenever we start the next game, all of the scores are not at zero and it has to reset every single one of them. And that's a good way to test. Is it capable of resetting every single one of them? So I feel confident this one's good and I got to work through the other 15 and then we'll try it out. Okay, folks, we're going to try it. It's at 1-1-1-1-0, 1-1-1-1-0, 1-1-1-1-0, 1-1-1-1-0, if you can't tell. And we want it to go to 0-0-0-0-0, 0-0-0-0-0, 0-0-0-0-0, 0-0-0-0-0. That's what I would like to see it do. Now, before it was going to 0-7-0-0-0, 0-0-0-0-0, 0-0-0-0-0, 0-0-0-0-0. But that 7 screwed us up. So here we go. Beautiful. It's exactly what we wanted. Look at that. Nothing finer. Good old ballet reset, score reset sequence. Everything from 1 all the way to 0. Now, if you think about it, it can't possibly go any farther than that. And you don't want it to go to 0 and then keep going and then have to go around two or three times. You still ain't right. Nope. It needs to do just like that. And it's kind of ballsy to even try it like that. Think about that. We just had each one of them reset as many times as they possibly can. That's 36 freaking resets just on that one alone. And then if you add that one, it's 72 completely together. It's 144 clicks that just happen in like six seconds. Perfect. All right, folks, the train is getting near. All right. So this is our little match unit. What do they call it in these? It's a 0-90 unit. So I call it the match unit, which it's called in some machines. But this one has an extra little piece. So I just figured I'd show it to you. Now, we just worked on a Ballet Freedom, very similar game, and it had this unit in it, but it did not have this one little piece that I'm going to show you. First thing I want to point out is these little cards on the side. See how they're like V-triangle shaped? If you notice, it's the same thing that's on the score reels, or at least very similar. It may wire up slightly different. See the little numbers on it? 9-0-1-2-3-4. Yeah, see how they kind of go out of order? That's so you can't guess the... Maybe. I guess one's ground. The ground's in the middle. But anyway, this one works the same, but it has a very important little thing on it that I see not working a lot of times. And it's this switch right here. So this is the same deal we were just looking at on the score reels. When this goes in, there is a cam here that moves depending on where you're at. And you can see that the little thing in there is a little bit different than the ones that are on the back of these plastic reels. But the cam follows it just the same. But on this one, it's a little simpler. It doesn't stay in one position until it gets to 9 and then moves at 0 and back to 1. No, it just goes back and forth. So it alternates. So you're at 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-0-1-2-3-4. Right, so it goes back and forth. And so each time this pulses, this switch either opens if it's closed or it closes if it's open. So why do they need that? Why would they add that in? Well, it's one of the coolest things on this era of electromechanical pinball in my opinion. Alright, so here is the 0-90 unit. And so what pulls that in is simply a switch on the 10-point relay. So every time you score 10 points, one of the switches is going to pull in on that relay and it is going to move up that 0-90 unit one position. So you saw that switch on the top of the 0-90 unit. Each time you score 10 points, that's either going to turn on or turn off. It's going to go back and forth every time you score 10 points. And the way you pull in the 10-point relay, the way you score 10 points, is the slingshots, which are the kickers on the left and the right. There's two top rollover buttons. There's rebound rubbers all over the playfield where the ball hits it. And it can even be the top thumper bumper, the center thumper bumper. So basically whenever you hit the dead rubber on the playfield or the slingshots, that's going to score 10 points. So this is the switch on that unit. When it's closed, it turns on the alternator relay. So when it opens, when you get the next 10 points, it turns off the alternator relay. So each time you score 10 points, it's either going to turn on the alternator relay or turn off the alternator relay. So this is one of the tricky parts of the schematic. If you find something like that, trying to figure out, well, what does that do? Well, if you look around the schematics, you see it all over the place. So there's a switch here, a make or break switch, that goes between the bonus unit or the whatever that is. It leads off to another part of the schematic. And then you have one up here that goes between whatever that is and the 300 and Advanced 3 relay. And then if you move over here, it's also on the thumper bumpers. So it's either going to give you the 10 points we were talking about earlier, or if it goes over the other way, maybe it's going to give you 100 points. So it's just used for various things. But a way you can figure out what it does is to look at the lights. The lights kind of lead you in the right direction a lot of the time. So when you look at the schematics of the lights, it makes it all a little simpler. If it's one way, if the alternator relay is off, I guess that is, then this line is energized, which is the center thumper bumper, the top left right rollover lane, the top left right rollover buttons, all of those are lit up. Wait, did I do that right? I did that wrong. If it's this one, it jumps over to, yeah, center thumper bumper, top left right rollover lane, I think it says. Top left right rollover buttons, six. So all of those are lit up. If it's the other way, then it would energize the top center lane, the top two thumper bumpers, and the bottom special lane. So basically it's going to bounce some of the lights back and forth on the playfield. So here's a couple rollovers, and then these say lit rollovers advance button bonus. So if they're lit, the thumper bumpers, depending on which ones, this one says lit rollovers advance bonus. So these three will be lit, or these three will be lit, but never both, you know. And two of these will be lit, and that one will be lit, but never all three, because it's all wired into that alternator relay. And then usually it's down here at the bottom too. So special when lit, extra ball when lit, gate opens advance three button bonus when lit, whichever ones they've got wired to it. But if you play one without that working, it's really boring, because you'll have several lights on the playfield that never light up, and you've got several that are always on. And it just stays like that. But if you get one where that's actually working like it should, that simple little switch on the zero to 90 unit, now it's a completely different game. You've got stuff over here, then stuff over here, and it bounces back and forth. And since it does it by the kickers and by the dead bumpers, which they've got misadjusted, but since it does it by those, you get all kinds of action where it moves back and forth the whole time you're playing. So you've got lights blinking, and this scores this, but now it doesn't, and this scores this, but now it doesn't. Just makes it a much better game. So that one simple little thing makes the gameplay a lot better. Now, it's pretty common for that match unit not to work. And people don't worry about it, because let's say you've got this in your house, and you've got it on free play. Well, a lot of people don't care if they win a free game at the end of the game with the match. But even if the match is turned off, there's a jumper to turn that off, you need that little switch to work, or the stuff won't alternate on the playfield. So it's a big deal. You've got to make sure that thing works, or the game. It'll take a game that's a 10 down to like a 6. Don't do it, people. You could think about it, but don't do it. Don't break your match unit. So at the end of the game, the match feature, the match light is displayed. Right now it's on 90. Let me get over here right and change it. And you can see that it actually goes linearly. And remember, it moves one time every time you get 10 points. So I think if someone worked it long enough, thought about it long enough, they could probably follow when it was going to match. But you'd have to see it. If you played a one player game, it'd be harder on a multiple player game. But if you played a one player game, and the match was 90 whenever you started, if you knew how it worked, you could figure out where it was going to be, especially on this one, because it does it linearly. On some of the older ones, it would mix it up. So it would do 10, and then 40, and then 20, and then 80, and then 30, and then 60, and it would bounce around. So that's what the match does. Let's see what the alternator relay does. So the alternator relay is actually underneath the playfield, on the bottom of the playfield. And it's got about eight sets of switches there. And I guess four sets are make break switches, where they are either one way or the other. And then four of them are either on or off, or off or on. And remember too, when it does this, it has to make the lights move. But it also has to make the math work. So it has to make, if the light says, if you hit this button, you get three bonus, it advances the bonus three times. They need one switch to make the light turn on, and they need another switch to make that actually happen. So there's probably four different things that move, and they're using eight switches to do So you can see a few things lit up. Let me move the, I moved the zero to 90 unit, and now the alternator relay is in. So some of the lamps changed. Remember we haven't done any light bulbs on the playfield or anything. You can see how it just makes different things light up. And of course the playfield itself is what makes that happen whenever you hit some of the switches on the playfield. Okay, so we're going to work on some of the stuff on the bottom of the playfield. And then we're going to work on a little bit on the top of the playfield, and then we'll pretty much be ready to go. All right, so I'm working through underneath the playfield, just cleaning the switches and things. And there's really not much wrong with it. Remember it was a working game once we figured out the problem with the coin door. But I'm just doing preventative maintenance to it and things to make sure that it's going to work in the future. The drop targets to clean the switches, but they are actually dropping very well. I can't hold this out of the way with two hands with one hand, can I? Boom, look at that. Boom, look at that. Let's try the third one again. Yeah, weren't good that time. Okay, so they seem to be dropping well. And remember too, whenever you're testing these, we're trying to get the drop targets to drop up right now. Whenever it's down in the game, they will drop down. It's a little easier to drop down than up. There's a thing called gravity that assists it. The bonus unit, same old, same old. The rivets were dirty. I cleaned them up and put a little bit of our super lube on it. This is what we use on stepper units. Makes it glide nice and smooth. If you get some of this, make sure it's dielectric. It's very important. It has to be dielectric. You can get this at hardware stores or you can get it from us. We've where we've got stuff like this that we use whenever we do our repairs. Listed on our parts page, there are links to Amazon. If you buy any of them or anything on Amazon, after you go to one of those links, it puts a little cookie in your computer or something and it can tell that we sent you there. So whenever you go there and you buy like a Ferrari, it gives us a piece of whatever your purchase price was. So we appreciate everybody that's doing that. Or you can get super lube. So I cleaned all of the switches, like I said. Worked on the drop targets. I think I need to go ahead and replace the light bulbs to make sure they're all going to work. And then we just need to test play it and see how things are going. I adjusted the pop bumpers a little bit. But basically on that, there was a little skirt here. That little plastic piece, little white thing that you're and see the switch there in the middle of the screen. So as the ball hits the skirt up above, it moves the little plastic piece, which moves the little spoon, which makes the two blades of the switch hit together. And so you kind of need to do it from all angles. You're looking for two things. Is it always hitting the switch, no matter what angle it comes from? That one is just barely. And does it ever get stuck? Sometimes they'll get stuck. Like whenever you do that, it'll just stay like that. If it does, you'll burn up the coil on the pop bumper. So don't do that. So keep fooling with it until it doesn't do that. And you got to have a little bit of a gap in there because what you'll notice is as that moves around, sometimes the gap changes. So you don't want it to be where it ever gets in a position where it's closed all the time because it will I mean like catch it on fire, burn up the coil. All right. Yeah. So I'm going to do the light bulbs and then we'll test play it a little bit. I think we've about got everything. Oh, we got to make sure that the chimes sound all right. Remember they weren't even working. A couple of them weren't. But light bulb time. All right. So we've got most, I think probably everything working right. We'll test it here in a second. But one of the things I want to address before we play it is the pop bumpers. So the customer is doing the cosmetics and we don't have to worry about that. But there were a couple rings where the switch was out in front of the ring. So I put them back behind it and adjusted them so that they don't short out and so they're not always closed. And then these pop bumper rings are really dirty. So a good way to clean those is with just a magic eraser. You can quickly clean them. So I went ahead and cleaned that one. I'll clean the other two. But I'm going to leave the play field for them. This one pop bumper is loose though. So that one moves a little bit. That's fine. But this one's really loose. So we're going to open this up and see what's going on with it. Also these two light bulbs are never coming on. So I'm going to replace both of those of course. Okay. So there are just two screws in the bottom of pop bumpers that are wood screws that literally just screw it to the wood. And they don't have a bolt on the other side or anything. They're wood screws. So just all you have to do is tighten them up. We're good. So these are 10 points right now. This is 100 points. So when I hit this, I get my 100 points, but it's not scoring. You don't hear the chime. These are 10. When I hit 10, it lights them both. You heard it chime the 10 points. But now when I hit it, you get 100 because they're 100 now because they're lit. So this one's 10 now. So it's pretty cool. All right. So that's the pop bumpers. We need to figure out what's going on with the hundred point chime. Why is that not chiming? So when you're doing this, you can cheat and just use the chime, the, the point relays from the back. So this is the 10 point relay. You can hear it is making the chime work. Here's the thousand point relay. It's making the chime work. Now this one, I wonder if I push it harder, like say on this one, if I don't hit it hard enough, the chime doesn't always work. That's because they're adjusted at different, um, widths or whatever, you know? So maybe the chime is this outside one. So maybe the one that makes the, the score motor that you're hearing, uh, the score reel that you're hearing turn closes before the chime one does. All right. So that could be what's going on with this one too. So is it that outside one there? Yeah. So one of them, if you push it hard enough, it makes it work. But what's going on is it, once it pulls in a little bit, the score reel is turning, which opens up the switch on the, the score reel. There's a make or break switch on there that kills the power to the, the point relay. So we need to adjust one of them a little closer. So let's look on the schematics and figure out which switch actually runs the chime. So the hundred point chime solenoid has a blue and white wire, uh, connected to a switch on the hundred point relay. And then the other side of the switch is this top wire, which is 30, it says. So when you're trying to figure out what that means, there's a little legend down at the bottom. It tells you the wire color. So it's saying 30 is yellow, three is yellow and zero is, um, no trace. So yellow, so blue and white and yellow. And just for giggles, um, the other relays, the other two relays are going to have a yellow wire going to one of them, one of the switches on it, and it's going to be red and white and orange and white, it looks like. So we're looking for the blue and white one, but I'm just curious if it's in the same position on all three relays, um, red and white, orange and white. So I was actually correct. It's the end one there. I thought I'd remembered that from before. So the blue and white wire runs to a yellow wire on the end switch. And that one does look like it's gapped a little farther than the other ones. On this relay, the orange and white wire runs to a yellow wire and it's on the same spot. And then on this relay, it's the red and white wire running to a yellow wire and it's on the same spot. You'll notice that the 10.1 is gapped a little bit closer than the other two, and we're hearing the 10.1 more than the other two. So I think there's probably, like I was saying, sometimes when the, um, when it pulls in and doesn't have time to close that basically. So I'm going to adjust those a little closer and then we'll try it again. Okay. So I noticed sometimes you just hear it making a noise and it doesn't ring. So why would that be? Well, you can see there's some tomfoolery going on here. So this left one, see that plastic sleeve down below the coil? And then there's a little bit of a plastic sleeve above the coil. So whenever the coil energizes, it pulls that slug up through there and hits the chime. Okay. On the right one, it's the same thing. See how the sleeve goes down below the coil when it pulls in, pulls that slug up through the coil, hits the chime. This one, the slug is hitting the chime, but the sleeve isn't right. Okay. So what's going on is they've got the wrong sleeve or no sleeve. Looks like they've got something because I can see it up top, but they've got the wrong sleeve. So it's not lining up right with that bracket. So what's going to happen is that thing is getting stuck on the top of that bracket instead of being able to slide back down because it has the proper sleeve on it. So if I wiggle this, it'll probably fall back. Yeah. It's just not lined up right because they don't have the right sleeve in there. All right. So you can see what happened. There was a coil here before that burnt up and so they've replaced it. Now they replaced it with the correct coil. It's just a replacement coil, but they had the wrong sleeve in it. So it just needs the correct sleeve. And it looks like they put a replacement plunger in it, which is the right size and everything. So everything's cool. I've noticed people get all upset about this. One of my big pet peeves about the pinball videos is that everybody thinks they're a perfectionist, you know, and they'll see something like this and, you know, they just got to make a remark. You know, you got to say, oh, what an idiot and all that. No, no, whoever did this didn't have the right part. That doesn't make them an idiot. If they had the right sleeve, they would have put the right sleeve in it. And it doesn't make you a genius to know that this is the wrong sleeve and that's the right sleeve. You know, it's not a big deal. First of all, at the end of the day, it's just a game. It's just a game. It's not important, right? And second of all, if they have the wrong part or they forgot to order a part or no one told them that they need that part or they thought they could reuse the old part, but they couldn't or it got lost or got broke or whatever, you know, are they going to spend $12 shipping to get another one? Probably not. So it's, you know, it's just, it's not that big of a deal. This is easily fixable. Um, so I don't know. It's hard for me to explain my opinion on that. People get so, people in the pinball community get so arrogant and elitist. Elitist is probably the best word for it. They get where they think that they know and no one else knows and everybody else is stupid and it's just, it's a pinball thing. I mean, I see it a lot more in the pinball community than I do in the arcade community. And it's sad, I think. So, um, I'm going to put the correct sleeve in it. Um, and that'll fix that because it's just a minor issue, folks. Nothing to get hung about. Ladies and gentlemen, it's viewer mail time. This might be the weirdest one I've got yet. It almost seems like a mistake. Maybe it is, but I figured I'd just show you, you know, I said, if you send me something in the mail, I'll show it on the video. So, this is what we got. This comes from Serious Gaming in Flushing, New York. I have no clue who they are. This was sent about a week ago and it has like an invoice, so it's almost like something I bought, but I didn't buy anything. So, I haven't bought anything from this company, so I couldn't have possibly, you know, it's not like they sent me the wrong thing or anything, but they have my address somehow here at the shop. And, uh, so I'm looking at this and I'm thinking, what is this? I can't tell what this is. It's very inexpensive. It's a dollar and 52 cents. That's the money they sent us. You know, we got, um, we got some stickers the other day from somebody too. They sent us some stickers. So, somebody is out there sending us random things. Hey, that's fine. That's what you want to do. So, it is a Yu-Gi-Oh card. I never played Yu-Gi-Oh. I'm a little too old for it. I was 47. I'm 47. I'm 46. Uh, so the, um, I missed the Yu-Gi-Oh thing and the Pokemon card thing. I was more of a Dungeons and Dragons era, but I didn't play that much either, but I did a little bit in school. So, it is this really cool Yu-Gi-Oh card. Palladium Oracle Mana Spellcaster Effect. It's a 96 card from 96. So, that is our viewer mail today. So, thank you to, uh, whoever sent us this from Sirius Gaming. We appreciate it. We will figure out something to do with it, um, but we appreciate it. Thank you for sending it. We'll see you, uh, we'll get back to the rest of the video. I don't know what to think about that. All right, folks. What a beautiful game. Look at this back glass. This, this back glass. Look at that. It's just fantastic. It's like, it's very representative of pinball. It's, you know, 70s, but it still has a little bit of that flair that the glasses from the 50s and the 60s had too. Beautiful. I think we got it playing pretty good. Let's test it. Notice it does everything in fives. Nice. Oh, almost scissored it. Don't scissor it, people. Not quite enough. A little bit better. bouncing the ball off the pop bumper into the, into the, um, drop targets. Okay, so we matched. So if you don't know about the match, I'm sure if you're watching this, you do. Everybody knows everything. But if you don't, in, in the rare case that someone's watching this that doesn't know more than me, the 60 lit up here and the last two digits of your score are 60, so you won a free game. So that was a clack that you heard. It was the knocker knocking. Nothing to be worried about, folks. One more game. Barely. Do you see what that noise? The switch was stuck down. Yeah, I bet you could get to where you could bounce the ball off the pop bumper into the, uh, the drop targets with the left flipper. Ah, I did it again. Look how they perfectly placed that there. So if the ball went there, it would throw it up out of the way. Horrible. Horrible of them to do that. Mmm. Slid it right by me. It did it again. I need to move that a little bit. So what's going on is the little wire, the rollover wire, when it goes down, it's touching the side of the wood. So it needs to be bent just slightly so it's more centered. But other than that, I think we're pretty good. I think we did a pretty good job. Valley was on fire during this time period. From 75-ish, and it's not really saying anything about the other companies. I mean, if you think they were on fire too, that's fine. But from about 75 to about 79, Valley was just absolutely killing it. And then Williams caught up. And while all that was happening, Gottlieb lost it all, unfortunately. But Valley was just cool game after cool game after cool game after cool game. You can make one hell of a game room with just Valley games from about 1975 to about 1979. Fantastic. Pun intended. We'll see you on the next video, folks.