Climbing Longs Peak's Casual Route: an Olfactory Epic
15 Video Views·Oct 6, 2025
The diamond of Longs peak is among the gnarliest climbing playgrounds in Colorado. When Graham and I climbed the Casual Route (5.10) in late August, I hauled a nose cam up to capture a rolling play-by-play of my snoz as it ascended to 14000 ft. Pictured here are the snorts, sniffles, and dribbles that accompanied our epic adventure. Without further ado, I invite you to live vicariously through the evolving smells of two climbers working their way up wet cracks and chossy chimneys. And alas, the sweet smell of success.
Longs Peak affords some of the gnarliest climbing in Colorado.
The easiest route to the summit is the casual route,
which requires pulling 510 moves at 13,500 feet.
The size of the mountain affords its own microclimate.
Rain, hail, and 40 mile per hour winds can come out of nowhere.
Afternoon thunderstorms appear like clockwork, forcing most parties to start
the night before. The sheer size, remoteness, and vertical
aesthetic of longs make it an epic adventure,
one I've attempted twice before. During the first attempt, Max and I spent two
days in freezing rain. How do you think it is, like 40? In my
sneakers that are wet, it's probably like 40. Just went up that
glacier. Yeah, we went the wrong way. It's dark.
It's looking bigger and bigger. It's also not dry.
I ended up getting pneumonia, and we bailed. Where are we, Sam?
We're at Estes Park. During the second attempt, we didn't even get on the route
because conditions were... Conditions are perfect. Which brings me to
August 24th, 2022, when Graham and I made a third attempt.
Getting ready to climb Longs. One hour sleep, let's go.
Sick. Leaving the cars at about 12 30. Doing drugs.
Started this with a little sickness. Twinge in the knee. Par for the course.
Pouring rain. Conditions are perfect. This mountain hates me.
Scrambling up the boulder field. I think it's over there.
We got Cairns. Race to Longs, 3 a.m.
Doing good.
You're good. It's jossy, man.
That is a lot ahead of us. How are we looking? All good? Good.
Perfect placement for a nut. Perfect place to camp.
Rock! You're good.
That's some false advertising. Sometimes you gotta splurge.
Bring the Cheez-Its up. No. Also, false advertising.
Nuts. Planters, nonetheless. Calm down, I just reused bags.
It was.
Yeah, she's pretty jossy. This makes me think it's on the far left
side.
So it's a five nine finger crack on the first pin
and then you do a hundred foot.
Rad, dude. Stoked. I should tighten my shoes.
We're getting up there. What are we on? Pitch five? This is top of pitch four.
We've got two more ten-minute pitches and a traverse. We're feeling good.
Wettest pitch around the course.
All right. Let's do it. Just don't fall off the damn slab.
That's loose. Oh yeah. Oh, and that's wet.
Oh my god, dude. So many bailouts.
throwing in. Top of longs.
Gotta give you a hug for that one.
19 hours car to car. Freaking wrecked.