Trying to get through an epic Himalayan gorge on a washed out track. Episode 10

In this episode, I search for another way into the valley, leading me onto what seemed to be an abandoned track. I pushed on until I couldn't seem to find a way through. I had made it down to the Zanskar River, where I was waved down by a local and was told that the road was impassable. It had been blocked from a major landslide for the last week. The guy said the only way was back, so I turned around and headed back up the pass. There was a glimmer of hope though. When I had looked at the map, there seemed to be two roads that made their way down to the river, so I thought I might as well try the other road. But even though I couldn't get through this way, I would have still come, even if I knew it was a dead end, as this place is mind-blowingly beautiful and one of the highlights of the journey so far. It is the best bit about not having a plan or schedule. When the path is blocked, you just try another one. I got back to the turnoff that took me down to the river, but from what I can tell, if I ride along this other road, it also makes its way down to the river. As always, there's only one way to find out. A bit of rain had turned some of the track to mud. I'm not sure I'd want to ride through here after days of heavy rain. I can only imagine it would get very boggy. That thick mud that sticks to everything and makes the grip on your tyres useless. I got to more cliff edge riding. It's incredible that there's these stunning valleys, and I gather only the occasional traveller would get to see them. Well, besides the locals. The track started to get a little rough, with a lot of dirt and rocks that had washed onto the road during presumably rainstorms, to the point it looked like there was no longer a road. I was starting to get that sinking feeling. This road hadn't been used for a while, and I hadn't seen a car since before the intersection with the other road. I stopped to get a better look down the mountain. I could see there was large washouts further down, which had formed trenches. It seemed this road was impassable as well. I went down to the next corner to turn around. Below, the road's washed out. It's gotten progressively worse. Nobody's come through here for a while, and I've just gone under half a tank. I think I'm gonna have to turn around. Bummer. Well, with that decision made, it was all about enjoying the ride back through the I had made it back to the turn off again. Now, for the high passes. And more random animals on the track. This time, yaks. The guys from the bro, still hard at work. I had made the first of the two high passes. Now, down into the next valley. I got to a water crossing that now had a lot more water running through it. I used the Indian shortcuts again to get to the top a bit faster. Wait, what? Did I do the cardinal sin of a photographer and not look behind me before? This has to be the most incredible landscape out here, and to think I wouldn't have seen it without the track being blocked. I mean, where I've just come from is epic too. I set off again to find out what else I'd missed, and first up is this Indian shortcut. I came around the corner to see an excavator rearranging the track. I had a chat with one of the guys there while I waited. Then, they kindly took a break to let me through. How thoughtful of the guys that made the road way more fun to ride. Now, I'll just get in front of this guy before he totally bulldozes the road. More animals, this time sheep. Oh, and some goats. Wherever you look, there is something spectacular. Oh no, I've done it again, and not look behind me when I rode in. At the end of this valley is a group of mountains that looks like a wall of laid mountains, kind of flattened out. I don't know how to describe it. As I made my way into the section, all the parts that looked like a flat wall from further back started to separate, like one of those pop-up books, where from the front it looks flat, but from the side you can see the layers. This canyon is definitely the best one I've ridden I had 20 kilometers of range left. I got into town and pulled into the first homestay I came across. I checked in and asked where the nearest fuel station was. Not feeling very confident about this. 18 kilometers, it could be a long night. Oh well, here we go. I had 18 kilometers to get there with what the bike said was a 20 kilometer range, but I'm still going to try and hypermile it. At least with the new version of the bike, it actually gives you a range. The old version I would have been guessing from about 100 kilometers out. Oh well, let's see how accurate it is. Well, in my experience, the fuel gauge information is accurate. I filled up and headed back, and that was me done for the day. I had picked up a little bit of mud yesterday. Oh well, just makes the bike look better. I headed off. The destination today was Kargil, which was the largest town to the west of Leh. In front of me, I could see a series of switchbacks up the mountain. I gathered that's where I'd be heading. I know it's a sealed road, but it's still a lot of fun, and the mountains and valleys around aren't too shabby either. I bet there's a track running through that gorge, and obviously it would be epic. So, on the lookout for mountain sheep butting heads. I made it to the top of another pass, and there was some bro love. There's always a dirt trail Now, to work out where I was staying. So, I have made it to Kargil. The reason coming here was that Naza, the brother-in-law of the place I stayed at in Leh, suggested to, because it's very central, and come and stay at his sort of a family hotel. His brother's downstairs, and looks nearly identical. A few years younger maybe, but that's about it. And yeah, it's central to a couple of rides I was looking at doing, there's Aran Valley that way, and coming out of Zanskar, this is where you come out if you did the sort of loop. Although I got turned around yesterday, so I may go back and have a look. The other reason is having a short day today, because yesterday was a bit, ended up being a long day on the bike. So, rest so I don't get tired riding, and yeah, just chill out for half a day. Well, it's probably still 11 in the morning, so yeah. And then Naza is going to come past and show me a few things on the map. Maybe there's another ride around here, I'm not sure yet. But yeah, just a relaxing day in town besides the, I think I'm on the main street in the traffic. They do love a horn in India. I was successful in my goal of doing nothing besides resting the rest of the day, and as night fell I made plans for what adventure I could get up to tomorrow. You're such a fragile thing, I know. In the next episode, after an early start, it's all about hunting the glaciers. Of course, with a few random dirt sidetracks. You know my love, don't worry about the cold just...