Derawar： El Gigante Silencioso del Desierto Pakistaní

In the heart of the desert of Cholistan, in the south of Pakistan, stands the imposing fortress of Erawar. With walls of almost 30 meters high, this huge structure is visible from kilometers away, like a giant brick emerging from the sand. Its majestic appearance and its millennial history make it one of the most fascinating monuments in the country. The first keys to understanding Erawar date back to the 9th century, when it was built by a leader of an Hindu clan of the kingdom of Haiz al-Mer, in honor of their king. The site was strategically chosen. In ancient times, the area was bathed by the Hakra River, which nourished civilizations in the Indus Valley until around 600 BC, when it changed course and dried up. The cities that depended on it collapsed, leaving ruins scattered throughout the desert as silent witnesses of a prosperous past. Although the river disappeared, the place remained a key trade and pilgrimage route. This transition marked the history of Fort Erawar, which was part of a network of fortresses intended to protect trade routes between Central Asia and India. Over time, most of these fortresses succumbed to the wind, sand and erosion. But Erawar resisted. Unlike the others, Erawar remains standing. It has 40 semicircular bastions, 10 on each side, which reach a height of 30 meters and surround a perimeter of 1.5 kilometers. Throughout the centuries, the fort changed hands several times. From the 10th century to the 16th, the Mughals had a strong influence on its structure, and in 1732 it was rebuilt as it is seen today. Finally, after the independence of Pakistan in 1947, the fort became a national domain. Made entirely of clay brick, it has a colossal square floor of 140,000 square meters and four walls decorated with geometric patterns. In its giant walls, you can still see the precision of its builders. It is estimated that more than 70 million bricks were used in its construction. Its interior housed rooms, residences, offices, dungeons, stables, cisterns and dungeons. It also holds little-known artistic treasures, rooms adorned with delicate geometric motifs and ancient murals that reveal the splendor of the times in which the Nawab ruled the region with wealth and power. Many spaces, however, remain closed, waiting for restoration. Despite being a huge fortress, it has ornamentations that captivate the most attentive eyes. Today, the fort shows the marks of abandonment. The walls are eroded by rain, wind and lack of maintenance. Inside, the corridors crumble and the structures deteriorate slowly. One of the greatest curiosities that attracts archaeologists and travelers is the network of underground tunnels. According to research, these connected Derawar with palaces and distant fortresses. Some were secret escape routes, others, weapons and supplies depots. Today, many are collapsed or blocked by the sand of the desert. In 2025, the government of Pakistan launched a program to restore seven forts in the region, including Derawar. The fort has been revitalized, with works on its walls and other parts of the structure. There is hope that Derawar will regain its splendor as a historical symbol of the south of the country. In the surroundings, small villages survive the harshness of time. Families live with the basics, supported by agriculture and animal husbandry. Modest tourism represents an economic opportunity. Guides, artisans and local merchants offer services to visitors who venture into this remote area. When the sun sets over the desert of Cholistan, the golden light of the sunset transforms the bastions into burning towers. The walls reflect tones of copper and gold, creating a spectacle that leaves photographers and travelers breathless. Visiting the fort of Derawar is much more than a historical tour, it is a complete sensory experience. The heat of the day, the silence of the desert and the cold of the night create an unforgettable atmosphere. Each step in its corridors evokes ancient stories and arouses deep emotions. Beyond its visual majesty, those who visit Derawar have a unique connection with the living history of humanity. The charm of this place lasts long after the departure, being recorded forever in the memory of those who have the privilege of knowing it.