PADDLE ATTEMPT TO SURF A FRISKY LEFT HAND SLAB AFTER A BIG NIGHT

sport and travel
205 followers
Bigger boards, Ivan, like, um, you should bring, bring your biggest board for the wave.
We just woke up from the big wave of boards. Very hungover.
We're gonna go look at our flat. Shouldn't have drank the amount we did last night.
But, me and Jumbo, we just went shot for shot.
Now we're paying the price, but not gonna stop us from looking at some waves today.
Condition's big, clean, offshore.
We're on a tour.
Protect hydrators.
Okay, me and Ivan found a little slab indeed.
Tide's about to push and we're gonna go out and try to get some bombs.
We are a little frazzled, lack of sleep, a little hungover.
We're gonna do the best we can.
Riding my 6.4 with, um, whoa, signature big wave thruster setup.
Pretty much use these things from my 9.8 to my 6.0 for all the slabs and barrels.
I'm gonna go 7' FCS leash.
I wish I had the Helix leash. Those I trust the most, but these black ones do pretty good too.
Ivan just decided to go his Airboard 5.11 Radius Prime.
New paddle out for us.
We've never surfed here.
Hoping a few sick ones come through.
What is this? It's so weird.
So weird.
Eee.
Look at that.
Whoa.
Holding my leash in my hand, I almost just tripped myself.
Oh my god, there's so many barnacles.
Not the best thing to see for paddling out.
Oh ----.
There's urchin everywhere.
Urchin?
Yeah.
Like what?
Yeah.
Careful.
Regretting not just throwing my Vans booties on.
For the protection alone.
Crap.
Trying to get down.
Oh, making it.
Oop.
Made it half way off.
Probably still a few sets.
Should be on the flip of the tide.
I think this blue is good now.
This is crazy.
Bro, again?
That's it.
You get short windows out here in these little tidal sessions.
We did our best with what we had.
Whoa, reef worm.
Oh shoot.
Shoot, we might have to go around.
Congratulations Rex.
You've annoyed me.
Now we gotta find our way back.
Gas station coffee.
So, we did our best at that little slab left this morning.
Funny little spot, super fun.
Roll up, see a little wave like that.
Got my little buddy Ivan.
Paddle.
Yeah, we're looking at another wave right now.
Paddle around with me.
Don't have to do solo paddle outs anymore.
And, um...
I just...
Wrote too many tequilas last night.
First wave just went flying over the falls.
Got like a few fun little visions.
Nothing crazy like that first one that came in.
Didn't get another chance at one of those.
But, gotta love those little sessions.
Little slab, you and a bro.
Tricky conditions.
Just trying to find that little nugget.
Now, we're at the cave.
Gonna see how it is.
