Capitol Peak - The HARDEST 14er | 2 MINUTE WALKTHROUGH
11 Video Views·Nov 3, 2025
In this quick walkthrough, we cover vital tips and observations for conquering Capitol Peak via the standard route. Starting with parking challenges near the trailhead, you'll learn about the correct trail to follow and when to stock up on water. Key features include the climb over K2, navigating the infamous knife edge, and tackling the challenging mix of class 3 and 4 climbs to the summit. Cautionary advice covers the descent, particularly near the hazardous death gully.
This is a quick walkthrough of the standard route on Capitol Peak.
The first thing you need to know is that parking at the trailhead may not happen.
I laid my car up 0.2 from the trailhead due to ruts in the road.
Next is to make sure that you're taking the right trail.
The first trailhead that you see will not be the standard route.
Ask me how I know.
The next six miles Capitol Lake has copious amounts of water,
but once you get to this stream right here before the saddle and lake,
make sure to take all the water you can carry.
Yes, it's only 1.7-ish miles to the summit,
but climbing 2,500 feet through boulders takes a massive amount of time.
If you're pinched for water, you may find some under the melting snowfields.
Next, you have K2, a 13,000-foot peak with a fun scramble to the top.
We chose to go up and over rather than around.
From the top of K2, you'll get your first glimpse of the glorious Knife Edge.
If bad weather is moving in, it would be wise to turn around now,
as the next few hours of travel are completely exposed with no real bail-off points.
The right side of the Knife Edge is steeper, so we elected to go on the left side.
For a full point of view of the Knife Edge,
click the link to the video in the description or the video that pops up at the end of this one.
In my opinion, the most challenging part of this climb comes after the Knife Ridge.
Here, you'll be met with a mix of Class 3 and 4 climbing with loose rock.
For the most part, we stayed below the ridge until just before the summit,
where we went up a finger ridge and then took the ridge proper to the summit.
Don't get too happy after summiting,
because you still have a giant slow downclimb that can be tough to pull off in spots.
Here is the death gully where folks have died in the past.
And yes, it looks like it goes, but you will be clipped out at the bottom.
Inch your way across the Knife Edge again and be prepared for the long,
slow slog back out to your car.
To see the full Knife Edge POV, click here and subscribe for more short 14-year walkthroughs.