An Italian Air-Force Icon Under $1000 is Back- A Cairelli Style Bulova Marine Star Chronograph Watch

What does one call a watch that went to the moon? A lunar tick. Get it? If you're watching this, I'm sure by now you must be familiar with the famous Type 20 chronographs of the 1950s and the collection of brands chosen by the French Air Force to supply their pilots during the post-war period. But today, it's Italia's turn as we explore a modernised special edition of one of Bulova's most coveted watches of the 1970s. Now before we roll the intro, please don't forget to hit like if you want to see more free and truly independent content and don't forget to subscribe for more. Okay, hi guys and welcome to the show. Now before we get into this best, this new release from Bulova, I think this might even be the first official real independent review of this. And I just realised my wristwatch check is very fitting because I've got the aerospace on. Pulling a ghost dog if you know you know. So very cool. I've been wearing this a lot recently. Now let's start off with a little bit of history obviously to contextualise. When it comes to Type 20s, Breguet of course, who produce a paradoxical haughty-taughty high horology modern incarnation of it to this day. However, what is largely overlooked is the original German roots of this design that the military specified definitive type was based on. And yup, you've guessed it, it was Hanhart. Not only did they pioneer this style, but they were doing it decades earlier, eventually going on to supply the German Luftwaffe's most elite pilots during the war. But in losing said war, so did their chances of notoriety as the original creator, despite my favourite actor of all time wearing one in the last Indiana Jones movie. Oh dear, perhaps not the best ambassador for a brand. Steve McQueen was certainly a better example. Hanhart's Black Forest-based factory fell under the jurisdiction of French occupation after the war, then under subsequent reparation conditions, being forced to sell their Type 20s under the name Vixa instead. This basically resulted in the Paris-based big boy Breguet getting all the fame, as they were the most well-known heritage brand producer of this type of aviation chronograph. So why is this all relevant? Well, I'm getting to that. You see, when it came time for Italy to supply its air forces during the 1960s and into the 70s, they adopted a similar specification based on the Type 20, thus translating it to Tipo 20, hence the almost identical design language as you can evidently see here when held next to its German ancestor. You can certainly see the similarity, use of Arabic numerals, the minute track around the periphery. But what is also interesting is that the Italian tradition of using chronographs as aviation watches, it starts way earlier. You see, the earliest watches used in aviation, we think Cartier Santos, we think the Longines Lindenburg watches. It's not until researching this that I realized that it all goes back to this, the predecessor. This would become the Speedmaster. The name gives it away, the Gennaro. This is a modern reimagining from the 90s, a 37 millimeter manual wind Tissot that pays homage to the transatlantic crossing done by Italo Balbo, a very early innovator, pioneer of Italian aviation. He actually crossed from Italy across the Atlantic to Brazil wearing the ancestor of this. What this illustrates to us is the Italians always used chronographs as aviation watches. Boulevard took it one step further. Now they've positioned it as a kind of, it's a bit of a polymath of watch genres. It's become an amphibious aviation watch, you could say. Most importantly to note is Italy operated differently to their neighbors over the Alps, with almost all mil-spec timepieces, timing devices, and other mechanical instruments being distributed by Antonio Carelli at 144 Via del Corso in the heart of Rome. Hence why many of the highly sought after earlier versions of vintage Zenith examples have the dials signed A. Carelli. Think of this as kind of like Tiffany signed watches, but not for Audrey Hepburn's pretending to eat breakfast, but pilots in daring flying war machines instead. Antonio was a broker of sorts between the Italian Ministry of Defense and the watch brands themselves, operating from the 1930s until the late 1960s. When it came to aviation chronographs for the Italian Air Force, or the Euronautica Militare Italiana, Universal Genève and Zenith were chosen. As often is the case with supplying watches on a large scale, it's not just survival of the fittest, but the most frugal that always prevails. So when Zenith got a bit too pricey and the contract was terminated, Boulevard stepped in with their marine starred alternative in the 1970s, being able to produce something remarkably similar for far less, and then repurposed for the civilian market. This giganticism, like the Germans and their Fliegers during the war, was purely unbridled utility in legibility and function, as dictated by the later CP2 specification over the 39mm as stipulated in the earlier CP1 specification. You see, the Italians broke down their interpretation of the Type 20 into two subcategories. Now I will spare you the minutiae and snorefest of all the deets, but if you desire to fall down a very deep rabbit hole, there's tons of great articles online. Now before we discuss the value, I just want to give you an example of the vintage offerings. This is the original from the 70s and it's going for about five grand. So I think it's a Valjoux based manual wind. I do love that bi-compax layout, I wish they had done that. Obviously they have to fit their proprietary movements, it would have taken a lot of R&D to make it bi-compax like this. However, what immediately blows its cover as not being period correct is the obvious modern ultra sharply transitioned contrasting finishing, ceramic insert on a solidly performing SKX-009 styled 60 click unidirectional bezel, double domed sapphire glass and extremely responsive luminescent materials. And then of course the real cherry on top of the cake, should I say tiramisu in this case, not that you'd ruin a perfectly good dessert like that. Anyway, forgive me, I'm just hungry, but I digress. Instead we have the truly impressive proprietary 262 kilohertz frequency NP20 movement. Now I've discussed it before, but as the website so rightfully and proudly boasts, it's eight times greater than standard quartz when it comes to accuracy in seconds per year. It also has an extreme precision that only a few luxury level high-end quartz calibers can compete with. But realistically, it actually makes perfect sense in this Tautastic Marshall context, the three o'clock sub-dial even giving you a 1 20th of a second reading. It's reminiscent of when the British MOD, when issuing their pilots in the 90s, chose the Flightmasters Progenitor that we've talked about so many times. And speaking of the mighty flighty, here's the kicker. It too has a shockingly high 200 meters depth rating, but most impressive of all, without the need of screw down pushers. A worthy but hidden superpower, you could say, justifying the marine star name. And just in case you're wondering, while I can't confirm this 100%, the 10 stars and name of the collection I suspect is a reference to the iconic starred dial watches you might remember from the video of me touring the Bulova Museum in the Empire State Building, originally manufactured for the legendary five-star General Bradley during his tenure as the chairman of what is unquestionably the greatest watch brand in United States history. Bulova offered $1,000 award for the first pilot to fly from New York to Paris. Charles Lindbergh won that prize. Bulova created a watch to commemorate that achievement, the Bulova Lone Eagle. Amelia Earhart Putnam, the first woman to fly the Atlantic. Amelia Earhart wore a Bulova, endorsed Bulova, and so Bulova responded by releasing the Lady Lindy, a woman's watch, to honor her achievements. Richard Byrd, who's the explorer noted for his flights over the North and South Pole, he used Bulova watches. They were on American Airlines and Pan Am, as important as Bulova's role was in aviation, it was more important even to space travel. So let's address the big giant elephant with value tattooed on its forehead in the room. And I'm sure there will be a lot of talk about it in the comments. As I agree, I think the retail price is far too high. But before you light your pitchforks and come for Bulova, let's remember that this is a fresh out of the gate new release. And while it is currently positioned at twice the amount of their other heavy hitting icon, the lunar going pilot chrono, that was also around this price upon initial release and have a look how much they're selling for. So I very much doubt it will stay at this retail price. The main drawbacks of this watch, physically at least, are, well, obviously the smaller wristed will wish for a CP1 inspired 39mm version. It also missed an opportunity for the whole bezel to be fully loomed. And the presidential styled bracelet really should taper. And while the end links are solid and have super handy bolt action spring bars, bonus points there by the way, the lack of taper keeps the weight unnecessarily clumsy. And overall with pinned links together, there's a real lack of refinement here. The safety fold over and push button clasp is certainly also dated by today's standards, with most brands having conveniently on the fly adjustable alternatives available. There is a divers or flight suit extension, which is kind of cool, I must say. But I think the main bone of contention is actually the height. I'll bring in my Navitimer. So this is a Valjoux 7750 based Navitimer, notoriously thick movements, there's rotors and everything. And yet this is still thinner than a quartz based movement. It's a shame. Now, obviously you could say, oh, well, it's because they got the 200m water resistant gaskets. No, I've worked on and designed watches that were 11mm thin, mechanical, that were 300m water resistant. So I don't think obviously I don't have the specifications of this watch, but I don't think it's got to do with water resistance. Yeah, this is just shy of 15. There you go. Yeah, way too chunky. Yeah, this is basically CP2 43mm, not really on trend right now in terms of diameter. I mean, obviously, if you got the wrist for it, why not? Makes more sense to me had they gone 39mm with the CP1. So in conclusion, a very solid, capable and dare I say dagger worthy chrono that will surely please a lot of military aviation fans, as well as people like yours truly whose name ends in vowels. But most importantly, it strengthens a collection that badly needed that upgrade after languishing for decades in a mall watch mediocrity with Invicta QVC styled monstrosities. Instead, like the Milships, Lunar Pilot, Devil Diver and many more in recent years, while far from perfect, certainly another confident step in the right direction for this heritage rich brand. Also worthy to point out that this is the most affordable way to own a Carelli chrono or a modern Hanhart dictated design without having to spend thousands, which is always a great thing. And there we have it. Let me know your observations in the comments. Don't forget to like this video onwards upwards. Thank you for watching and I'll catch you in the next one. Ciao.