The Evolution of Hairstyles in the Qing Imperial Harem: From Simple Twin Buns to Grand Winged Styles

Archaeology Chronicles
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Hello everyone, welcome to History and Culture.
Here, we chat with everyone about the Qing Dynasty's imperial harem.
Those hairstyles and attire refined to the utmost perfection.
From the simplicity of the early Qing.
To the splendor of the Qianlong era.
And then to Cixi's innovations.
These changes unfold like a slowly unrolling scroll.
Recording the prosperity of the Great Qing Dynasty and the wisdom and meticulousness
of the women in the harem.
Our story begins in the early years of the Qing Dynasty.
At that time, the Great Qing had just entered the Central Plains.
The realm was newly stabilized.
And life in the harem still carried a touch of frugality.
The concubines' hairstyles were mainly a style called
small two-part bun.
This hairstyle relied entirely on one's own hair for combing.
Without any wigs or frames.
The hair was parted in the middle.
Combed to both sides and fixed into two small buns.
Looking simple and elegant.
But with limited space for decoration.
Concubines couldn't wear too many gold and silver ornaments.
Only inserting fresh flowers and plants.
Or simple copper trinkets for embellishment.
Imagine, in the palace from the empress to the maids.
Everyone's head basically had these plain things.
With little luxury to speak of.
Why so frugal?
Because the emperors and empresses of the early Qing advocated simplicity.
For example, in the first six years of the Xuanzhi reign.
Empress Fucha was renowned for her thriftiness.
She took the lead in not wearing precious jewelry.
And the entire harem followed suit.
The palace was filled with velvet flowers and copper grass decorations.
The empress did so, and the concubines naturally followed.
This was not just about saving money, but a court ethos.
Embodying the stability and caution of the new dynasty.
As time passed.
The great Qing's empire grew more secure.
Neighboring countries or tribes.
Began tributing various fine jades and jewels.
These treasures were crystal clear.
Sparkling brilliantly, and the harem women were captivated at first sight.
They no longer wanted to settle for simple flower and plant decorations.
Thus, a new hairstyle tool, the frame, emerged.
This frame was fixed on the head.
Hair crossed and wrapped around it.
The remaining part.
Combed flat at the back of the head.
Tied with a hair ribbon.
From the side.
It looked like a swallow with spread wings.
Hence called, swallow tail.
The advantages of this hairstyle were significant.
It could bear the weight of various gems.
Allowing concubines to freely insert gold hairpins, jade clasps, and pearl strings.
Paired with the flowerpot bottom shoes, on their feet.
It was perfectly coordinated and exquisite.
Truly the standard outfit of the harem.
However, this hairstyle had drawbacks.
Not everyone had thick and abundant hair.
So concubines with thin hair.
Had to use wigs to fill it out.
By the Qianlong era.
The more advanced, cushion head began to gain popularity.
This hairstyle actually had early prototypes.
But it truly flourished during the Qianlong period.
Concubines like Xinhuan and Rui.
Had all worn the cushion head.
It wasn't exclusive to high-ranking concubines.
During festive holidays or court banquets.
Harem concubines would all wear it.
Banquet occasions were especially grand.
Everyone dressed in full regalia, with cushion heads on their heads.
Decorated mainly with fresh flowers or velvet flowers.
Without piling on too many precious ornaments.
The craftsmanship of gold, jade, and kingfisher feathers.
Made the entire look luxurious yet elegant.
Imagine at the banquet a sea of people.
All with cushion heads, jewels glistening under the lights.
What a lively scene.
Next, as the Qing dynasty developed into its later period.
Empress Dowager Cixi was not idle.
She invented the big spread wings hairstyle.
A major innovation.
Unlike previous hairstyles.
That required fixing with one's own hair.
The big spread wings were made from special materials.
Convenient to put on and take off daily.
And could accommodate large areas for pasting decorations.
With strong compatibility.
Those exaggerated Manchu headdresses in our impressions.
Are actually representatives of the big spread wings.
It was not only practical.
But also gave harem women.
More room to express themselves in hairstyles.
Especially for those concubines with little hair.
This was a blessing.
With hairstyles covered, let's talk about attire.
The clothing of harem concubines.
Was divided into several categories.
The most formal being, court robes.
These were the official attire for grand ceremonies or investiture rites.
For example, at the empress's enthronement ceremony.
The empress's court robe looked heavy and imposing.
Collar embroidery, gold embroidery, court beads.
Nothing was missing.
The court crown on the head was layered upon layered.
Each layer inlaid with eastern pearls and pearls.
The whole crown adding up to hundreds of pearls.
Sparkling under the sun.
Beautiful, but truly tiring to wear.
Court robes also varied by season.
Different styles for winter and summer.
This was the empress's exclusive privilege.
Concubines' court robes differed from the empress's.
The lower the rank, the simpler the crown.
For those below the concubine rank, like nobles and attendants.
They didn't even get a court crown.
At investiture ceremonies.
The low-ranking concubines in the back rows.
Wore not court robes.
This distinction was clear at a glance.
Besides court robes, there were auspicious robes.
Mostly used for festivals and banquets.
Auspicious robes were usually blue or stone green.
Looking uniform.
Not distinguishing ranks much.
In the Qianlong period, auspicious robes were often paired with cushion heads.
In real history.
Auspicious robes were worn with an auspicious robe jacket over them.
Which would cover the patterns inside.
But in some portraits.
People aren't wearing the jacket.
That's because it was temporarily removed for painting.
To conveniently display the gorgeous details.
Put it back on after painting.
In daily life.
What concubines wore was, casual attire.
It wasn't as formal as court robes.
Nor as gorgeous as auspicious robes.
Just ordinary clothes.
But casual attire had rules too.
It couldn't be worn randomly.
When paying respects to the empress, seeing the emperor, or visiting the empress dowager.
All required casual attire.
Paired well, it looked refreshing and pleasing.
Paired poorly, it might invite gossip.
The harem had strict hierarchies.
With taboos on clothing colors and jewelry.
Concubines of each rank.
Had different allowable colors.
Only the empress could use, phoenix wearing peony patterns, or other exclusive motifs.
Others using them would be disrespectful and punished.
Low ranks like attendants.
Could only wear secondary colors, not primary ones.
When the internal affairs office issued fabrics, they strictly controlled it.
No mistakes.
Only imperial consorts and above could wear bright red.
But depending on the occasion.
On the second day of the imperial wedding, only the emperor and empress wore red.
Other concubines avoided it.
If someone wasn't careful and wore red.
It would be seen as disrespectful, sparking palace gossip.
In terms of matching.
Some concubines were particularly outstanding.
For example, young women newly entered the palace.
On their first respect-paying visit, would choose plain and elegant outfits.
Avoiding being too flashy.
The empress dowager, upon seeing this, often rewarded cloud brocade or similar fabrics.
As encouragement.
Later, when helping others match.
They could select cool summer outfits based on season and occasion.
Earning praise.
Thus, the harem's refinement wasn't just superficial.
But required understanding rules and observing carefully,
according to comments from relevant historical scholars.
These changes in Qing harem hairstyles and attire.
Reflect the dynasty's journey from frugality to prosperity.
The early Qing's small two-part bun.
Simple and practical.
The Qianlong era's cushion head and swallow tail, gorgeous and varied.
Cixi's era's big spread wings, convenient and innovative.
In attire, court robes solemn, auspicious robes festive, casual attire every day.
Each piece hiding strict hierarchical systems and cultural connotations.
These stories are not just about hair and clothes.
But a microcosm of Qing court life.
From frugality to luxury, every step is authentically traceable.
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