💰 Year-End Tax Planning 2025 | Smart Moves Before December 31st
The year is almost over — and that means it’s your last chance to make powerful tax-saving moves before December 31st. In this video, I break down the best year-end tax strategies for 2025, with all the correct IRS contribution limits, updated tax brackets, and the key deadlines you need to know.
Whether you’re a W-2 earner, a small business owner, or a middle-class family trying to keep more of what you earn, these tax strategies can help you lower your taxable income and set yourself up for a stronger 2026.
We’ll walk through retirement contributions, HSAs, Roth conversions, QBI strategies, charitable giving, tax-loss harvesting, 529 plans, and more — all updated with accurate 2025 numbers.
📊 These are the same year-end tax planning steps I use with clients and inside my Middle Class Money Club to help families build smarter financial plans.
🔑 What You’ll Learn in This Video:
✔ 2025 IRS limits for 401(k), IRA, HSA, and FSA ✔ How to reduce your 2025 taxable income ✔ How to use Roth conversions strategically ✔ How tax-loss harvesting really works ✔ How to maximize QBI deductions (20% pass-through) ✔ Charitable strategies (including donor-advised funds) ✔ State tax savings using 529 college contributions ✔ Energy, EV, and home improvement tax credits ✔ Important gifting limits and end-of-year deadlines ✔ What to know about the 2025 → 2026 tax changes
✏️ Important 2025 Numbers (Easy Reference):
• 401(k) limit: $23,500 (plus $7,500 catch-up; plus $11,250 super-catch-up at age 60–63) • IRA limit: $7,000 (or $8,000 if 50+) • HSA: $4,300 individual / $8,550 family • FSA: $3,300 (check carryover rules) • Standard deduction married filing jointly: $31,500 • Gift tax exclusion: $19,000 per recipient
💬 Question for You:
What’s one tax move you’re planning to make before December 31st? Comment below 👇
🔔 Subscribe for weekly personal finance videos, tax tips, investing help, and real financial planning guidance for middle-class families.
It's time for end of year tax planning! This video covers key tax strategies to consider before the new year. We'll explore opportunities in personal finance and financial planning to potentially lower your taxes and improve your retirement planning.
So, here we are, middle of November. The
end of the year is quickly approaching.
This is the perfect time of year to do
some tax planning, to go through, look
at your current situation, do some
projections, make sure that you're not
going to get blindsided by some big ass
tax bill come filing time, and also make
sure that you're not leaving any of the
lowhanging fruit out there that you're
not taking advantage of before the
calendar flips over to 2026. I hope that
you find this one helpful. Let's get to
it. All right, so before we get into it,
just my disclosure. I am not a CPA.
Nothing in here is tax advice. Don't
take anything that I tell you and run
with it. Make sure to consult with your
own tax advisor. So now the tax code, it
is very complex, but at the end of the
day, what it really is, it is a code of
incentives. The government incentivizes
you to do certain things, to take
certain actions. Like for example, they
want you to save for retirement. So they
give you a tax deduction if you
contribute to your 401k. or they want
you to be a business owner, start small
business and employ people and they give
you certain tax deductions for going
ahead and taking the risk and doing that
or investing in real estate. Real estate
can be very tax friendly. So there's
specific parts of the code that
incentivize you to invest in specific
demographics or to buy multifamily real
estate or to invest in single family
homes for people. The way that you are
taxed on that income is different than
the income that you earned at a W2 job.
But for the purposes of this video,
we're going to talk about being a W2
employee and how you could actually
reduce your tax bill by just taking
advantage of what is written in the code
for you. Now, our tax system is called a
progressive tax system. And what that
means is that you are taxed at a certain
bracket, at a certain percentage on
different amounts of income that you
make. So, for example, if you are
married filing joint, you are taxed 10%
on the first $23,850
of taxable income that you earn. And
then every dollar above that up until
$96,950,
you are taxed at 12% on that dollar
amount. And then for every dollar that
you earn over $96,950,
you are taxed at 22% up to $26,7
and so on and so on. So if you earn over
$751,000,
then every dollar that you earn above
that is taxed at 37%. You would be
considered in the 37% marginal tax
bracket. But that doesn't mean all of
your money is taxed at 37%. Still, if
you're in that tax bracket, your first
$23,850
is taxed at 10%. And then the money, it
just goes through those brackets. You're
taxed at those different incremental
levels for each bracket. So your
marginal tax bracket, it will be a big
determining factor on things that you
should do. Like for example, if you are
in a 10% marginal tax bracket, meaning
your income is very low, then it makes
sense to do Roth contributions into your
401k or Roth IRA contributions as
opposed to doing traditional 401k
contributions because with a
traditional, you're going to get a tax
deduction. And if you're only in the 10%
tax bracket, the tax deduction is not as
valuable right now. You might as well go
Roth and let that money grow tax-free.
The same can be said for a 12% tax
bracket. You are better off doing Roth
contributions as opposed to doing
traditional contributions. All right.
So, now that we have a better
understanding of how tax brackets work,
let's talk about how you could actually
reduce your taxable income throughout
the year. And the first one is not going
to be a surprise to anybody. It is
taking advantage and maxing out your
retirement accounts. Now, depending on
what tax bracket you are in, it might
make sense to do traditional versus
Roth, right? But let's just make the
assumption that you're in a 22 or a 24%
tax bracket. In that case, I do like to
split it sometimes, but again, it
depends on your personal situation and
how much money you actually have in each
of those tax buckets. How much you have
in traditional, how much you have in
Roth. But let's say your goal is to
reduce your taxable income right now,
right? And defer it into the future. A
traditional 401k is a great way to do
that, and you have until the end of the
year to max out at 23,500.
Now, the problem is that it's hard to
max out now because it's payroll
deducted, but you still have time where
if you were to change this immediately,
your last few paychecks, you could put a
big majority of your paychecks in there
if you have some savings in the bank
where you don't need those paychecks
right now and try to defer this money.
But even going forward into next year,
just getting into the habit of deferring
as much as you can into your traditional
401k, that is a great way to easily
reduce your taxable income. And not only
that, you're saving for your retirement.
you're going to be happier in retirement
the bigger that pile of money is that
you have to draw on once you walk away
from work. Now, if you are ages 50 or
older, then you could do a catch-up
contribution, which is an additional
$7,500.
And starting this year, if you are
between the ages of 60 and 63, your
catch-up contribution is actually
increased to $11,250
instead of that $7,500. Now, for IAS,
you have to make sure that you qualify.
So the income limits are pretty low to
be able to deduct traditional IRA
contributions, right? And then you have
Roth IRA contributions where the income
limits are much higher. So you have to
check where you fall with those income
limitations. But you're able to
contribute $7,000 a year into either a
traditional or a Roth IRA, or you could
do a combination of the two. And if your
age is 50 or older, then you have a
$1,000 catchup contribution. Now, I am a
big fan of contributing to Roth IAS. I
think it's the best way that you could
save for your eventual retirement.
Again, I talk a lot about tax
diversification, right? These tax
buckets, having money in traditional
accounts, having money in Roth accounts,
and then having money in brokerage
accounts as well, accounts that are not
just designated for retirement, and
walking in with those three different
tax buckets. So, you actually have some
control over the tax rates that you pay
once you get into retirement. But
overall, retirement accounts, they're a
great way to either defer taxes now or
to pay taxes now and then have money
grow tax free forever. And you want to
be taking advantage of these things. I
know the cash flow is tight in the
current environment and everything, but
you want to do the best you can to get
into the habit of contributing for
retirement, increasing it every year,
and trying to get to that maximum amount
so that you could retire one day and you
can enjoy yourself and and have some
fun. So now, other accounts that you
want to be taking advantage of if
they're available to you, and that is an
HSA and an FSA. So, an HSA, a health
savings account, you have to have a high
deductible health plan in order to
contribute to an HSA. And I've made
videos on this in the past, how they are
the best type of retirement account that
exists. You get the tax trifecta. You
get a tax deduction when you put the
money in. The money grows tax deferred,
and then as long as you use it for
qualified health care expenses, it comes
out tax-free. And I love to invest
inside of my HSA. I try not to use any
of that money. I try to pay out of
pocket for my health expenses and let
that HSA grow for retirement. So when I
go into retirement, I'm going to have
this pool of money that I could use for
qualified expenses. And you could
actually keep all of your receipts
through the years and reimburse yourself
later on. So for example, if I went to
the doctor eight years ago and it cost
me $5,000 out of pocket, I could right
now reimburse myself out of my HSA and
match up that receipt that I paid that
$5,000. Take an HSA withdrawal and it'll
be completely taxree. I want to do that.
I want to keep all my receipts on a nice
Google Drive folder, nice and clean. And
later on in life, if I need to pull
money, I could just go ahead and
reimburse myself for those out-ofpocket
costs. In the HSA limits for 2025, if
you are single, it's $4,300. And if you
are married, if you have a family, then
it's $8,550.
But you have to make sure that you have
a qualifying high deductible health plan
in order to use an HSA. Now, for FSAs,
for flexible spending accounts, you just
want to make sure that you are using the
money that you deferred into there
before the end of the year. If that's
what your calendar, if your plan goes on
a calendar year, if you have to get it
out of there before the end of the year
or it's a use it or lose it type of
plan. So, you just want to be on top of
that and make sure that you are not
contributing to that where you get a tax
deduction and then you're not using the
money and you lose it to the plan. This
is also the time of year where it's
smart to check your withholding and your
estimated tax payments for the year. You
just don't want to get hit with a big
bill in April when you file your return.
So if you had big capital gains, if you
sold something that had a very big gain
in it and you didn't pay any estimated
tax towards it, you want to take care of
that and just do some tax projections
and see, you know, are you having enough
withheld based on your income so you
don't get slammed in April. Another
popular buzzword that you hear people
throw around is tax loss harvesting. So
you want to see, do you have any
positions in a brokerage account? So not
retirement accounts, but if you have a
brokerage account where you have some
losers in there. So, if you bought a
stock for $100 a share, and now it's
down to $70 a share, and maybe you don't
really want to own that stock anymore,
right? Maybe it's something that you
could sell and buy back later on down
the road, take the tax loss now, right?
You could offset gains versus losses and
try to get it where you don't have these
big capital gains. So, it's worth
looking through your brokerage account
and just seeing how your positions have
done, what you've made money on, what
you've lost money on, and see if there
are things that you could sell to maybe
take a tax loss for the year. Now, if
you have a very big loss, the maximum
that you're able to take is $3,000 per
year and then the rest will just be
carried over to future years. So, it's
not like you lose it. So, if you have a
$15,000 loss that you're taking, you
could take $3,000 against your ordinary
income and then the additional $12,000
that will roll over to the next calendar
year, but you could offset gains. So, if
you have $15,000 in gains, $15,000 in
losses, then it's just a wash and you
won't owe any taxes on the gains because
the the loss will have wiped that out.
But it's always good to look through
that, you know, this time of year and
see, are there any opportunities for you
to tax loss harvest? And it's also worth
mentioning that there might be an
opportunity to tax gain harvest. So, say
for example, you had a very low income
year. Maybe you were laid off. Maybe you
didn't work for a majority of the year
and you ended up living on savings or,
you know, whatever the case may be, you
might have gains in the brokerage
account where you could still be in the
0% capital gains tax bracket. So for
2025, the 0% capital gains tax bracket
is $96,700.
And if you're single, it is half of
that. So if you're in a situation where
you really didn't have much income this
year and you do have stocks that have
capital gains, it could be a very good
time to sell. And then on top of that,
like low income years are actually great
tax planning years. You might have
opportunities to do Roth conversions.
You might be able to fill up a 10% tax
bracket in Roth conversions and it might
make sense for you to do that. If you
have kids, 529 plans, you want to save
for college for them. That is a great
way to go about it. There's a lot of tax
advantages to using those plans. A lot
of states offer a state tax deduction.
Like here in New York, if you are
married filing jointly, you could get a
New York state tax deduction for up to
$10,000 in 529 contributions. But even
beyond that, there are big tax
advantages. The money that you put in
the 529 plan, it is going to grow
tax-free. So you drop money in there, if
you have a one-year-old, a 2-year-old, a
three-year-old, that money has 15 plus
years to grow. It's going to grow
taxree. And then when you use it for
higher education, then that money will
come out completely tax-free as long as
it is a qualified expense. And the
definition of that has been expanding
each and every year. You could use
$10,000 now for K through 12 private
school as well. Now, you are also
allowed to do a transfer from a 529 plan
into your child's Roth IRA. I did a
video on this in the past. Um, it's only
been available for a year or so. I've
done this with my son. They do have to
have earned income and then you could go
ahead and you can make a Roth IRA
contribution for them. But it's just
another incentive to put money into a
529. Like with my son, he's 18 years old
right now. I started when he was born.
That money's been growing taxree for 18
years and now I take a chunk of it. I
make a Roth IRA contribution for him and
now it's going to grow taxree for the
rest of his life until he takes it out
in retirement. So it's just a great way
to get this tax-free growth and never
have to pay taxes on that money. And now
this is also a great time of year to
check beneficiaries to look at your
estate plan. If you gift money to family
members if you're looking to get money
out of your estate, you could do up to
$19,000 per individual without having to
file a gift tax return. But also just
checking your beneficiary designations.
It's always good to do that at least
once a year. And why not the end of the
year when you're doing some tax
planning. All right, everyone. That is
it for this video. I hope that you found
this one helpful. Please hit the like
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